Getting eyelash extensions put on at a salon or brow bar has never piqued my interest before. They take a long time to apply (two and a half hours on average), their lifespan is arguably short (they generally last four weeks and can even fall out sooner), and I have heard way too many firsthand stories detailing ripped-out lashes and puffy, red eyes post-application. Besides, I picture myself looking ridiculous with too-long lash extensions — and therefore, it's been a 'no' for me.
That's not to say I don't like a little enhancement in the eyelash department though. My natural lashes are stick straight (even when I use a lash curler), and without the help of jet-black mascara, they are nearly invisible. In the past, I have opted for a professional lash lift (it's like a perm) combined with a lash tint (temporarily darkening lashes with dye) to make my eyelashes stand out. And for a little more than six weeks, they had the depth and flutter of Jessica Rabbit. The process made more sense for my preferred 'natural but not done' look.
Then last year, I moved from New York to San Francisco, and went on a hunt for a lash salon that could do lash lifts and tints. But being in a new place, I was also open to trying something different. LUUM caught my eye with its futuristic, high-tech twist on lash extension application: a robot was the technician. I was skeptical but intrigued — and it was conveniently located across the Bay Bridge, so I decided to try something new. I excitedly booked an appointment.
LUUM's Backstory
LUUM was co-founded by a roboticist named Nathan Harding. He worked in automation and spent years building human exoskeletons to help people recover from spinal cord injuries — it wasn't until recently that he ventured into the beauty industry, after a casual conversation with a friend introduced him to the concept of lash extensions. Being a roboticist, his first impression was the process was inefficient — and perfect for a robot. After watching the tediousness and precision required to apply each lash online, he confirmed his thoughts and decided the treatment was ripe for innovation.
Harding read through 142 patents that included the word "eyelash" in the US Patent and Trademark Office’s database before deciding there was space to develop his own one-of-a-kind lash-applying technique.
It took four years, but he and a team created a robot that could apply lash extensions. Currently, Luum's procedure takes about 50 minutes, an improvement from the usual two-plus hours. Their goal is to cut the time down to 25 minutes for a full set of lash extensions and 20 minutes for a refill.
How Luum works
The robot was created to function as if it were a lash specialist — but instead of having two hands, it has two wands similar to tweezers. And it is trained to see clients like a human technician's eyes would: "The machine is powered by computer vision," says Rachel Gold, co-founder and head of marketing at LUUM. Computer vision is a type of AI that trains computers to understand and interpret images.
One robot isolates the natural lash while another picks up an extension, dips it in adhesive, and lays it exactly over the natural lash. “Their 'brains,' essentially, are built out of all these little calculations that [behave] like the way neurons behave,” Harding has told Allure. “One [robot] searches for an isolated lash using flexible wire ends and it tells the other robot, 'Hey, come over here and place an extension.' The placement robot has to know exactly where it is in space to accurately [lay an extension on top of an eyelash].” No small feat, considering both the eyelash and the extension are only "about a hundred microns in diameter," Harding adds. The process doesn't just make the lash extension application faster, it also helps minimize human error. "Eyelashes are so tiny, manipulating them is right at the edge of human capacity in terms of vision and dexterity," Gold says. "But for robotics, it is quite natural." Even so, nothing can completely replace the human touch — and whether or not companies should even be attempting to do so with robots is a new and controversial topic — but Luum has a human technician on standby to address the robot's work.
As a safety precaution, the wands are hyper-delicate — Gold compares their weight to that of feathers — and sensitive to the slightest change in pressure, even a sneeze. "Earthquakes are common in the bay area," says Gold, “so the machine will immediately pause at the slightest shift.”
My Experience with Luum
The appointment started like any other, no robot in sight. A (human) lash specialist greeted me and asked me about my desired look (I wanted noticeable volume with extra density that would make someone do a double take, but wouldn't scream “fake lashes”), offering me a pair of fuzzy socks, a weighted blanket, and a pair of headphones to wear during the treatment. Fancy, no?
There was a regular spa-like table for me to lie on… and then things started to look different. A refrigerator-sized robot stood next to the table and extended above it. Before turning on the machine, the specialist removed any excess oils from my bare lashes and placed two pads (similar to undereye patches) on each eye: one across my lid and the other spanning my undereye as a guide for the robot. She adjusted the table to the proper angle for the robot to work on my lashes.
As the robot started moving, those fuzzy sock on my feet, though cozy, were not exactly enough to keep me calm — my heart rate quickened. Featherlight or not, mechanical tweezers near my eyes felt like a gamble. I waited for discomfort — my eyes tearing up a bit from the robot's movements — but I only felt the robot gliding across the ends of my lashes.
Despite my initial fears, I almost immediately decided this was, without a doubt, the most comfortable lash treatment I had ever received. Once the first lash had been placed and I felt nothing, I started to feel more calm. I realized just how relaxed I had gotten when I awoke from dozing off midway through. Once both eyes were complete, the lash specialist touched up sparse areas, applying several additional lashes, and did a quality check to make sure everything looked even. (Again, there is still something to be said for the human eye.)
In 50 minutes, I could not believe my eyes — or my lashes. Looking in the mirror, I felt like I was wearing the best mascara I had ever swiped on. The lashes made a statement, but they weren't so extreme that they looked out-of-place against my usual makeup-free vibe. I was sold.
The extensions felt heavier than my usual lift and tint, but that became an afterthought by day two. And not having to apply or remove mascara daily made me love the lashes even more. My specialist advised me to get a refill after four weeks, but I stretched it out to five and a half. At that point, I didn't hesitate for a second to book my next appointment at Luum.
A full set of lashes costs $175 with refills at $90. Luum hopes to expand into salons beyond Oakland, California in 2023.
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