How to Pull Off a Headscarf

Beyonce and Sabrina Carpenter and Ayo Edebiri and Billie Eilish and Hailey Bieber all have at least two things in common: 1) They are famous. And 2) They can pull off a headscarf better than most. I’ll let the recent photos floating around the World Wide Web speak for themselves.

Pause there, then rewind to 1953: Roman Holiday premieres starring 24-year-old Audrey Hepburn. As she begins her rise to stardom, she frequently wraps her chocolate brown hair in a headscarf. 1970: Printed scarves—in colorful florals and punchy designs–crown Queen Elizabeth II from one royal engagement to the next. Fast-forward and the year is 1998: Erykah Badu and Lauryn Hill repopularize scarves, swirling them around their hair on stage and off.

Then and now, the most elegant—and sometimes, the most mundane—squares of fabric have been spun (and tied) into a statement. Sometimes, the most extravagant materials can even take the shape of a headscarf. We witnessed this in 2014, when Adam Selman designed Rihanna a custom headpiece, dazzling with thousands of Swarovski crystals.

But let’s pause again. Because there was a distinct time—specifically the 18th century—when headscarves represented an extremely different status than “cool” or “stylish”: Headscarves were a symbol of servitude. Not a choice. Not a fashion statement. Headwraps were a requirement for slaves by their owners.

Decades later, Black culture began to embrace the style, day and night, and it evolved into a form of protection: “Would you ride your bike without a helmet? No. Would you go to sleep without wrapping your hair? Never. When it comes to maintaining hairstyles, retaining length, and preventing frizz, the noblest work is done at night,” former Allure editor Jihan Forbes wrote in 2018.

Now, amid your morning scroll in 2024, chances are someone on your phone screen will be showing off their headscarf this summer. Posing…and voguing, because the accessory begs to be photographed. Maybe it’s Queen Bey who stops your scroll, staring into the camera lens with a black-and-white silky bandana tied around her face, blonde ringlets inching out onto her forehead, and piercing cat-eye sunnies perched on her nose. Or it could very well be that Sabrina Carpenter’s song-of-the-summer contender, “Espresso,” is blaring through your headphones, which was recently brought to life in her music video where her face is framed in a baby pink scarf, her curtain bangs peeking out just so. Or, perhaps, it’s your favorite content creator—Matilda Djerf, Claudya Moreira, Jenny Walton, Tezza Barton, Amy Julliette Lefévr, and the list goes on (and on)—whose photo you have saved as inspiration because maybe…just maybe…you are finally convinced to wear the scarf that’s been sitting in a drawer, waiting patiently to be all tied up.

Candidly, we still have Hailey Bieber’s Coachella look (you know, the one where she boldly layered a leopard-print scarf over a Fila baseball cap) stuck in our heads. The same is true about Ayo Edebiri (a.k.a. Chef Sydney “Syd” Adamu) in season three of The Bear. One spoiler: Edebiri pairs her white coat with a new scarf episode after episode—and each look is fabulous. Uncommon it is not to see this hairstyle in the kitchen. But, uncommon it is for someone to have such an expansive collection of ridiculously gorgeous scarves. All were sourced by costume designer Courtney Wheeler—from Aimé Leon Dore, Fine and Dandy, a vintage shop in New York City, and eBay, among other places—who says the scarves were a practical accessory but also gave Syd "self-expression without her even speaking.”

Hairstylist and hair department head for The Bear Ally Vickers had runway images pinned on her mood board for Edebiri’s character: “I pulled a lot of inspiration from fashion shows in the ‘90s and 2000s,” she tells Allure. “Anna Sui, Calvin Klein, and Prada are my favorites for archival runways. The hair is chef’s kiss.” Yes, Chef! Yes, indeed.

Models walking recent fall runway shows—at Burberry, Giorgio Armani, and Anna Sui, to name a few—were frequently accessorized with a headscarf, too. Bold prints, solid, splashy colors, and subtle designs all made an appearance. While what’s on the runway doesn’t necessarily make it to street style, scarves have flooded the sidewalks.

For Claudya Moreira—a model, digital creator, and the self-proclaimed “Queen of Scarf”—a scarf is a “versatile accent” that she incorporates into her daily ensemble, no matter the occasion…or season. “My love for scarves runs deep and is rooted in my heritage,” she tells Allure. “Growing up in an environment where all the women wore scarves, I naturally embraced them as a part of my daily life and personal style. I inherited a cherished scarf from my grandmother, and everything our grandparents leave us is a blessing. Scarves are more than just accessories to me; they represent a connection to my past, a celebration of heritage, and a medium for artistic expression.”

You’ll see Moreira styled to perfection from head to toe (in a structured blazer or summery blouse or full-length gown on her Instagram) and just about every look is complete with a scarf in some form. “Each of these styles allows me to express my fashion sense while adding a touch of elegance to my outfits,” says Moreira, who has even designed a collection of scarves called Zafia Lisbon.

Creator Jenny Walton sees scarves as more than just a polished accessory: “I mainly end up wearing them when I’m having a bad hair day, which is often in the summer,” she tells Allure. “Or if my roots need to be redone and I don’t have time, a headscarf can prolong my hair appointment for a few weeks.” To be clear, you would never know that her vibrant matching Marimekko dress and scarf were hiding anything such as a “bad hair day.” Walton typically reaches for Hermès scarves and says their lightweight silky texture makes them easy to tie—and they actually stay on.

If you find yours slipping off though, you are not alone. Allure senior visual editor Lauren Brown loves to wear a headscarf (her favorites have been purchases from eBay) as “an ode to the ‘70s,” but says, “It's tricky to keep it secure and honestly it slides off all the time.”

Hairstylist Lacy Redway previously told Allure, “To secure the scarf, cross two pins behind your ears where they are not very visible.” Allure associate features director Dianna Mazzone Singh says this method has proven to be successful for her, especially with a little reinforcement from the arms of her sunglasses (as she has styled the look above).

And on a windy day—or just to be certain your scarf isn't going anywhere—Vicker’s has another pro tip: “Leave a little hair out at the nape of your neck. Tie your scarf between the hair that you’ve left out and the bulk of your hair; then when you’re putting your hair into a ponytail you can secure all the hair into the same elastic,” she says. “You will still be able to see the bow of your scarf, but your hair will keep her locked in.”

It’s certainly one way to elevate your ponytail—or hairstyle of the day—and look effortlessly polished… no matter what lies beneath.

Shop our favorite headscarves:

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