Witch Hazel Is Making a Major Comeback

Just saying the words "witch hazel" stings a little bit. "Historically, in its purest form, witch hazel is used as an astringent to contract the skin’s tissues to give the appearance of smaller pores and draw oil [from the skin]," says dermatologist Michelle Henry, MD,  a clinical instructor of dermatology at the Weill Medical College of Cornell University in New York City. That astringent effect sometimes worked a little too well, as anyone who grew up in the ‘90s or early aughts might remember from splashing their skin red and flaky back in the day. "Its astringent effect means that it works by drawing water out of the skin," says Perry Romanowski, a cosmetic chemist and co-host of the Beauty Brains podcast. "For some people that can feel good, but for others it can [be too much]." 

Over the past few months though we have seen new launches give the traditional ingredient a newfound level of tolerance across all skin types — and with it a fresh boost in popularity. For an unassuming flowering shrub, witch hazel has certainly blossomed into a versatile skincare ingredient. 

Meet the Experts:

• Michelle Henry, MD, a clinical instructor of dermatology at the Weill Medical College of Cornell University in New York City
• Julie Russak, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City
• Perry Romanowski, a cosmetic chemist and co-host of the Beauty Brains podcast
• Kavita Mariwalla, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in West Islip, NY and brand ambassador for Dickinson’s

What Is Witch Hazel?

The astringent ingredient was first introduced in skin-care products way back in the 1800s, but was used medicinally in Native American cultures long before that. Derived from the winter-blooming North American Hamamelis virginiana plant, the witch hazel utilized in skin care is extracted from soaking and steeping or steam distilling the leaves, stem, and bark of the plant to create a clear, fragrant liquid that today is most commonly made into toners for those with oily or acne-prone skin. 

How Is Witch Hazel Used in Skin Care? 

Until recently, a witch-hazel product was basically just straight-up witch hazel. There was no mild, medium, or hot option if you will. But new formulations are far more sophisticated — and customizable. 

"I  like to tell people that while witch hazel may be an ingredient you are used to hearing your grandmother use, with new formulations and uses, it is definitely a product for this generation," says Kavita Mariwalla, MD, a dermatologist based in West Islip, NY and brand ambassador for Dickinson’s. "Toners with actives added [to them] complement skin-care routines to create problem-based solutions." And they can be a great addition to your skin-care lineup as you get older. "There is a gap in skin care for mature skin," Dr. Mariwalla explains. "This is where I think witch hazel really shines. So much of what adult women have at our disposal is limited to retinol and ‘anti-aging’ formulas — it’s nice to have an option that is skin-soothing and redness-reducing." 

New York City board-certified dermatologist Julie Russak, MD, also wants witch hazel’s reputation to extend far beyond oil-control and acne treatment and prevention. She notes the plant has always been "anti-inflammatory and antiseptic, so it can have many positive benefits on the skin, such as diminishing redness, healing bug bites, and soothing folliculitis." 

Everyone we spoke with agrees that we’re still scratching the surface of what can be done with witch hazel. Toners are just the beginning. "The more we talk about the efficacy of [witch hazel] as an ingredient, the more interested consumers are in having it in their skin care at all levels," says Dr. Henry. "We may start seeing it in creams taking advantage of its antioxidant properties and even in hair care like anti-dandruff preparations." 

The Next Generation of Witch Hazel 

With recent product innovations, witch hazel has been trending on TikTok, with the tag racking up over 69 million views. So, it seems to be working for several (million) people. Classic brands like Humphreys, Thayers, and Dickinson’s (and we mean classic — Thayers first launched its witch hazel toner back in 1847, and Dickinson’s wasn’t long after in 1866) have reinvented their original formulas to solve the drying dilemma.

Last summer, Thayers released an ultra-hydrating sister to its facial toner, called the Hydrating Milky Toner. Made with snow mushroom and hyaluronic acid, it claims to provide 48-hour hydration and strengthen the skin’s moisture barrier, making it ideal for those with sensitive or reactive skin. "Hyaluronic acid is a miracle molecule — it holds 1,000 times its weight in water, so it’s combatting the drying effect of the witch hazel," says Dr. Henry. "Snow mushroom is similar to hyaluronic acid in that it’s a really potent humectant that helps to draw in moisture to the skin."

Dickinson’s, meanwhile, released an entire range of new innovations that take its witch hazel (wild-harvested using the mature bark and twigs of the plants) and combines it with targeted ingredients in toner-serum hybrids for specific skin issues. The collection includes a Brightening Toner + Serum with grapefruit and vitamin C, plus a Hydrating Toner + Serum with hyaluronic acid and rose water, which Dr. Russak notes is a soothing and anti-inflammatory ingredient with a hydrating effect. "If you’re not super dry and you want a little bit of a glowing effect, rose water is great," says Dr. Henry. Rounding out the Toner + Serum trio is a Clearing formula with eucalyptus, salicylic acid, and niacinamide, a powerhouse ingredient that Romanowski says is "used for a wide variety of [purposes] — anti-acne, skin [brightening], anti-wrinkle. It really depends on the formulation, but alongside witch hazel, it can help alleviate any irritation you might get from that ingredient." Adds Dr. Mariwalla, a brand ambassador for Dickinson’s: "[In this formulation], niacinamide, works to shrink pore size, but also helps with hyperpigmentation and brightens the skin."

The brand’s final new release is a micellar makeup remover that combines dirt-lifting micelles with witch hazel and aloe. The soothing succulent is also a star ingredient in Humphreys new aloe-spiked Clarifying Witch Hazel Cleansing Pads, which cleanse and condition skin in one swipe. "Aloe is very soothing, making it really great for those with irritated, inflamed skin who also want some hydration," explains Dr. Henry. Additionally, the witch hazel pads are a convenient option for the chest or back area.

While these classic brands have been improving upon their centuries-old formulations, new brands are also welcoming witch hazel. Kim Kardashian’s SKKN by Kim Toner uses witch hazel water and niacinamide to offset the exfoliating effects of fruit enzymes and alpha-hydroxy acids that help smooth and refresh dull, uneven complexions. Garance Doré and Emily Yeston’s Doré Le Cleanser combines witch hazel leaf water with white lily and goji berry extract for a gentle cleanse that refreshes without stripping away essential moisture. Then there’s toner king Mario Badescu, whose namesake brand has both a version that pairs witch hazel with rosewater and one that combines it with lavender for a soothing and balancing boost post-cleanse. 

And, of course, witch hazel isn't only reserved for your face and we're seeing it make its way into more and more hair-care formulas. There’s Ceremonia’s Champú de Yucca & Witch Hazel, which uses the plant as a gentle form of sebum control for the scalp. Briogeo’s Blossom + Bloom Ginseng + Biotin Volumizing Spray takes that same concept and puts it into a handy spray that utilizes witch hazel and lemon extract to absorb excess oil, while maltodextrin (a natural sugar starch) coats each hair to create visibly fuller strands and biotin help strengthens the hair shaft.

And if you happen to love witch hazel so much that you wish you could bathe in it, well, you can. Susanne Kaufmann's minimalist chic Witch Hazel Bath is a decadent oil that nourishes skin as it soothes irritation. And just like that, witch hazel has officially lost its sting. 

Read more stories about skin-care trends.

• The 7 Skin-Care Trends You'll See Everywhere in 2023
• Can "Slugging" With Petroleum Jelly Clear Up Cystic Acne? Experts Weigh In
• Dermaflash's New Luxe+ Dermaplaning Device Gave Me New Cheekbones

Now watch Jennifer Aniston react to TikTok trends. 

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