When we first started to write this column more than three decades ago, there was little talk about organic farming. Today, you cannot get away from the subject.
Our forefathers knew nothing about synthetic fertilizers and pesticides when the first soil was tilled in this country. They might have had home remedies to fight insects and mildew and they likely used the waste from animals as natural fertilizer. But, leave it to a chemist, a sure-fire shortcut in a can became the preferred method of ensuring a good crop.
These products worked well but it wasn’t until recently that grape farmers returned to the old methods of farming and found more organic ways to treat a crop. Much of the push for organic farming came from health groups and consumers who worried that chemicals used in the vineyard were leaching into their wines.
They demanded change. But there was also a self-driven crusade among viticulturists to eliminate these chemicals without sacrificing quality — even if at first it came at a greater expense. Bonterra Organic Vineyards is a pioneer in this field and now proudly puts it philosophy in its name.
It wasn’t long before we were seeing a number of terms that made organic farming confusing. Biodynamic farming, natural and organic were being used interchangeably, although they embrace different concepts. No synthentic chemicals or preservatives are used in organic wines.
Biodynamic takes it up another level: Cover crops between vines, composting, introducing animals such as sheep to trim the cover crops and crop rotation. It’s a more natural environment where Mother Nature naturally takes care of pests and nurtures the vines.
It all sounds logical, but there are challenges. In some regions, mildew and pests cannot be easily managed. In those cases, chemicals are still deployed.
Not only is this holistic approach being tackled in the vineyards, but adjustments have been made in the winery as well. Natural — or wild — yeasts that cling to grapes and the walls of wineries are used to start fermentation instead of a yeast manufactured in a lab. The wines are not filtered or fined to keep the product natural, even though that sometimes leads to a cloudy appearance or cause crystals to form in the bottle.
Sulfites beyond what occurs naturally in fermented grape juice are being reduced at the risk of a destabilized wine. There are other confusing chemicals, too, but perhaps the one that annoys us the most is the additional of grape concentrate.
Known commercially as “mega purple,” this juice concentrate is not a chemical but a teinturier grape called Rubired. Most red wine you buy under $20 has mega purple, a sweet additive used to cover flaws and enhance the color, make the wines taste fruitier and add residual sugar.
The wine is simply not authentic as Mother Nature intended — it’s a disguise. The product is not unsafe nor is it uncommon. It adds a weird flavor to the wine we swear we can identify, but you won’t find a winemaker admitting its use.
Organic doesn’t necessarily mean the wines are vegan, either. The use of egg whites in fining and other animal parts can disrupt that. However, there are some producers making vegan wines, too.
While wine labels must say that wine contains sulfites, it is void of all the other ingredients that are more concerning. There is an effort to force producers to list ingredients, much like food makers do, but there doesn’t seem to be much momentum.
What does this all mean to you, the consumer? You’re getting a more natural wine today that is free of chemicals and, in most cases, taste better than one riddled with additives. It’s healthier.
Washington State
Oregon seems to get all of the attention when it comes to the wines of the Northwest, but we continue to find nuggets from Washington state. The region is more than just the giant Chateau Ste Michelle. There are many smaller producers who fly under the radar. Here are a few we recently tasted:
Abeja Washington State Chardonnay 2022 ($48). White peach, apricot and pineapple burst from this delicious and round chardonnay.
Chateau Ste Michelle Artist Series Red Columbia Valley 2020 ($70). The major producer in the Columbia Valley is known for value-oriented wines, but that doesn’t mean a premium wine can’t be produced. This elegant red blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, malbec and cabernet franc has classic black cherry and blueberry flavors with a hint of spice and fine tannins.
Greenwing Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 ($30). A good value in the premium cabernet sauvignon category, this wine has youthful and bright red berry fruit flavors with cherry aromas and hints of clove and cinnamon. Big but fine tannins make it a good match with grilled beef.
Canvasback Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 ($44). Generous and soft strawberry and anise aromas are followed by ripe and juicy strawberry and cherry flavors.
Wine picks
Matanzas Creek Alexander Valley Merlot 2021 ($50). If you have given up on merlot, try this from one of the most venerable merlot producers that never wavered from producing the maligned grape variety. Great structure, yet approachable fresh plum note with hints of cedar and sage.
Quilt Fabric of the Land Red Wine Napa Valley 2022 ($35). Full bodied with oodles of cherry and blackberry flavors with a striking chocolate tone. It is composed of petite sirah, merlot, zinfandel and petit verdot.
Presqu’ile Santa Maria Valley Sauvignon Blanc 2023 ($28). The fermentation of this lush wine takes place in a combination of cement eggs, stainless steel and oak barrels. From a cool climate, the estate-grown grapes combine to deliver lemon, lime and tangerine notes with a good dose of dried herbs.
Tom Marquardt and Patrick Darr have been writing a weekly, syndicated wine column since 1985. See their blog at moreaboutwine.com. They can be reached at [email protected].
