Happy Hour: Chinato on East Fourth Street in Cleveland a new take on Italian cuisine

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Chinato rolls out an Antipasti and Salumi Plate -- a wide-ranging mix of cheese, meats and vegetables that can feed two.

(John Petkovic/The Plain Dealer)

CLEVELAND, Ohio -- Italian cuisine is almost universally loved and yet it's often written off as commonplace. We can debate why that is – or, well, we can just hit Chinato for Happy Hour...

OK, let's do the latter.

HAPPY HOUR

Chinato

2079 East Fourth St., Cleveland

216-298-9080; chinatocleveland.com

Happy Hour: 4:30-6:30 p.m. and 9 p.m.-close Monday-Saturday

Happy rating: Four out of five olives.

Chinato rolls out some of the most liberal hours in Happyland. Perfect for a visit downtown to check out the Christmas displays, a Cavs game or an after-game stop.

The East Fourth Eatery is close to perfect in other ways. Happy Hour offers a low-cost trip to the Italian kitchen of chef Zack Bruell's mind. It might not exactly seem that way when you notice the price tag of the Antipasti and Salumi Plate, $10. But the board is a wide-ranging mix of cheese, meats and vegetables that can feed two.

It also compliments the Grilled Vegetable Salad, a unique small plate that comes with farro and ricotta ($6). The gnocchi – that old-time fave you rarely see in Happyland -- makes for a unique diversion ($8), in no small part because it's tasty and zesty without being heavy.

Hard to believe that gnocchi is so hard to find. But that's not my problem – because this place defies conventional thinking.

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