Review: Venetian Arsenal

Tell me: What’s this place all about?Arsenale di Venezia, a massive Byzantine armory and shipyard, was originally built in the 12th century, and it served as the Venetian military HQ for centuries afterwards. Now, its cavernous halls and landscaped gardens are used as one of the main venues for the Biennale, as well as the city's Naval Museum.

What’s it like being there?During the Biennale, the Arsenale is filled with curators, collectors, tourists, and artists checking out the exhibition or relaxing on one of the lawns overlooking the harbor. Otherwise, the only part that's accessible to the public is the old main gate, guarded by two massive stone lions, and the Naval Museum, which occupies some of the old warehouse space and showcases historic ships, armaments, and ephemera from the city's maritime history.

Who comes here?Because the complex is used for so many different purposes, the crowd depends on the time of year (or what Biennale cycle you're in). But it's not necessarily on the mass-tourism circuit, so you'll generally be mingling with a more low-key group.

Did it meet expectations?No matter what's on display, the scale of the architecture and the industrial history of the place is fascinating.

So, then, what, or who, do you think it’s best for?Maritime history buffs, architecture nerds, and people who love to see enormous, crumbling spaces reused as contemporary cultural exhibition spaces.