The Best New Restaurants in New York City
Summer may be drawing to a close, but some of the best new restaurants in New York City are only just opening their doors. Like clockwork, a bevy of eateries slinging everything from fried chicken and banchan, to sophisticated seafood and affordable omakase (affordable, at least, by omakase standards) are joining the city's bedrock of beloved institutions and making it a food destination that gets exponentially more exciting with each passing season.
Over the past few months, our editors have been eating well, accruing new favorites dining spots across the city, and diligently compiling them. And because trying something new is essential to travel, we're sharing them with you here to inspire your next visit to the Big Apple. Veer off the beaten path (no disrespect to Balthazar) to a buzzy new wine bar, or expand your K-town repertoire by going to a neighborhood bibimbap joint in the Lower East Side, we promise you won't regret it. Our favorite new restaurants in New York City are below.
How we choose the best new restaurants in New York City
The best new restaurants in New York City stretch across Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens, the Bronx, and Staten Island. Every business on this list has been selected independently by our editors and written by a Condé Nast Traveler journalist who knows the destination and has personally tried the restaurant in question. When choosing new spots, our editors consider both high-end and affordable eateries that offer an authentic and insider experience of the city. We’re always looking for standout dishes, a great location, and warm service—as well as serious sustainability credentials. In terms of how we define ‘new,’ we've chosen to focus on restaurants that have opened within a year of the publish date. When you work your way through the list, check back in: We'll update this guide regularly as new restaurants open in New York City.
And now, here's our selection: find swanky Italian seafood joints, 11-seat omakase counters, and a Brooklyn neighborhood joint where you may have to fight for a table—but we promise it's worth it. Here are the best new restaurants in New York City.
This article has been updated with new information since its original publish date.
Armando Rafael/FrenarestaurantFrena
Frena$$While Hell’s Kitchen is definitely not one of New York’s most notable culinary hotspots, Frena is a Mediterranean haven that begs to differ. Chef Efi Naon opened the restaurant this past spring to pay homage to “the smells, spices, and recipes of [his] Moroccan-Israeli upbringing.” Naon was notably executive chef at the ever-popular Taboon, which tragically shut down after a fire a few years ago. He brought back its signature clay oven to Frena, which is integral in baking their fluffy homemade Frena Bread, brushed with olive oil, Maldon salt, wild dry za’atar, as well as their decadent Sambusak stuffed with feta cheese. Our meal kicked off with classic Israeli dips like baba ganoush and hummus, complemented by the crisp baby gem salad with root vegetables, and Jerusalem stone yogurt. As per our attentive waitress’s recommendation (the service was top notch), we ordered the butterflied branzino for our main, which was incredibly fresh and so simply delicious. Food aside, Frena’s florally-decorated interior paired with its impressive drinks program will transport you to a special place, and lends itself well to an aesthetically-pleasing girls' dinner or date night. The restaurant was buzzing on a Monday night, seemingly with plenty of locals and regulars, and we were more than glad to absorb some of that wholesome NYC energy. —Emily Adler, associate social media manager
Evan Sung/IkigairestaurantIkigai
Ikigai$$$The evening got off to a solid start. Ushered through an unremarkable below-ground door, we walked past a chef’s counter, and into a courtyard styled like a Japanese tearoom, complete with shoji screens and potted Japanese maple. Seated, we received a cold towel (one of the kindest acts on an NYC summer day) and a cup of rhododendron kombucha—followed by a course of pillowy milk bread. I later found out that this ritual was devised to hedge against late entrants—an extended grace period before service begins. Ikigai, which opened in Fort Greene in July, isn’t afraid to do things a little differently. The owner Dan Soha is a first-time restaurant owner; the kaiseki tasting menu, courtesy of Rafal Maslankiewicz (ex-Masa and -Eleven Madison Park) carries Polish influences; and Ikigai will be run as a not-for-profit enterprise with any profits going to Rescuing Leftover Cuisine, an organization that redistributes food waste to food-insecure communities. On the night we visited, Maslankiewicz’s menu included an okra risotto with sea beans and a quail-egg-in-a-hole topped by uni. But nowhere was the hybridization more evident, and less expected, than during dessert—a delicious knedle-mochi dumpling with raspberry and sour cream. The plating (and service) here is unfussy, so don’t come expecting lavishness—the price tag at $165 a head occupies a more sensible middle ground, too. Do expect a tight wine pairing; although you can go off-piste and get your bevvies à la carte. I was thrilled to see Yamilé on the menu, a delightful non-alcoholic sparkling rosé made in Copenhagen. Ikigai is the kind of place where you notice the small details: the cool indie playlist, the under-the-table shelf for your purse, and most of all, the calm energy that sits around you. Two hours later, I pushed past the door into a still-light, busy Lafayette Avenue and winced a little. —Arati Menon, global digital director
Cecchi'srestaurantCecchi's
Cecchi's$$It’s fitting that I slipped into Cecchi’s on my first night back in New York City after weeks of travel. This is where you go to remember why you live in the city; it’s also where you should bring your visiting friends who can’t help but mention how “New York” your life is. The menu, which owner Michael Cecchi-Azzolina says comes from researching decades of New York restaurant menus and their iconic dishes, will remind you exactly where you are. Start at the bar, where drinks range from the cheeky (cosmos! appletinis!) to great pours of Sancerre and Beaujolais. If you’re having a great time, chatting with seatmates and bartenders, stay there and order the New York Happy Meal ($25 martini and fries, offered everyday from 5-6pm and late night). When you’re ready to migrate to a table, you’ll hope you brought enough dining companions to really explore. Starters like the stuffed mushrooms go down easy, but it’s bold reincarnations of the classics like the “Not a Wedge” salad (which comes as finely chopped as Farmer in the Deli sandwich innards, and is craveably tangy) that I would go beeline to in the future. You should like meat if you’re eating here (or be taking advantage of a cheat-day from your efforts at a more plant-based diet—who’s with me?), because the apricot-glazed ribs, the steak-frites, and the burger all deserve your attention. The food is rich, so under-order to start. And make sure to look around the room between bites, as the atmosphere and constant din of spirited conversation is the most New York thing about this place. —Megan Spurrell, senior editor
Francesco Sapienza/The GrouprestaurantOmakase by Shin
Omakase by Shin$$$I’ve spent years in New York wanting to go for an omakase at a price I won’t feel deeply guilty about later. It’s a tall order. But when I heard about Shin’s omakase, which will run you $175 for 14 courses, my ears perked up. Then, I ate my way through a meal of sweet seasonal clam broth, gorgeous sea bream nigiri, a decadent hand roll stuffed with Japanese uni, plus 11 other tasty things, and I realized I’d found what I’d been looking for. Chef Shin, for starters, is a subtle comedian, and a tactile teacher—so sitting at this intimate sushi bar not only means delicate, fresh seafood, but good chats; and questions about ingredients might mean a hunk of wasabi or a tray of artfully arranged shiso flowers is thrust into your hands for you to sniff, taste, and inspect. The Midtown location, on a cut-through between W 53rd and W 54th, is surprisingly laid-back for this part of the city, but really convenient if, say, you’re splurging on dinner-and-a-show for a special occasion: Broadway is just around the corner. —M.S.
Michael Carnevale/Parcelle Greenwich VillagerestaurantParcelle Greenwich Village
Parcelle Greenwich Village$$If you step into a wine bar and see that every seat comes equipped with exquisite slim-stemmed Zalto glasses (gift a pair to your favorite oenophile, when you can), you know that place means business. But a wine bar, this is not—not technically. It’s a wine bar-plus, the plus being extremely good food. A new restauranty iteration of Parcelle arrived this July, right on the border of NoHo and SoHo—so, you know, on Houston. Compared to its older sibling in Chinatown, a drinks-and-bites dispensary with emerald green couches for early-evening flirting, Parcelle Greenwich Village is a full-service 45-seat joint and already a bona fide hot spot—not only because the AC was under repair when I went (I’m told it’s now been fixed), but because it was packed on opening week with a who’s-whomst of Manhattan’s culinary and media crowd. Set your Resy alerts for this place because the kitchen here is doing extremely fine work, with a menu that’s tight in scope and pure in vision: bar fare with substance. The prosciutto ($24) came with cracker puffs for a delightful contrast in textures; the yellowtail tartare ($24) was bright as day; the herbed tomatoes with stracciatella ($24) made my mouth pucker—into which I poured an array of gorgeous wines, pulled from a studied list of bottles over 500 strong. (For those inclined toward spirits, they have a streamlined list of those too.) The rigatoni with fermented tuna and Calabrian chili ($24) soaked up my pet-nats and sparklers, and I’m hearing great things about a crab, heart of palm, and hollandaise dish ($25), already on my list for my next visit. Cap the evening with a digestif and something sweet; I had a bread made with sweet corn, polenta, and condensed milk, topped with whipped crème fraîche ($20). Whether you’re picking wine to go with your food or vice versa, let the charismatic staff guide you every step of the way (when you go, say hi to Scottish Jamie for me). They’re a knowledgeable and stellar bunch, the types to fold your napkin and place them on the table if you’ve stood up to go to the loo or say hi to friends at a neighboring two-top. The vibe is convivial and chic: You come here with friends and run into more, in a burled-wood space that looks like the dining room of a fabulous pal who lets even her messiest but best friends use her good wine glasses. —Matt Ortile, associate editor
Eel BarrestaurantEel Bar
Eel Bar$$I’ve been a long time fan of the team behind Eel Bar—two of their spots, Hart’s and The Fly, are within walking distance of my Brooklyn apartment, supplying me with many a martini, clam toast, or basket of rotisserie chicken over the years. Their new restaurant on the Lower East side follows a similar blueprint to its sister spot Cervo’s on Dimes Square: namely, a casual tapas-style menu, simple and classic cocktails (with the occasional twist), and European-style décor that tricks you, for a second, into thinking you might be going for dinner in Basque country. We over-ordered and were glad for it. A few highlights: the gildas, a salty pintxo dish of skewered olives and anchovies; a bowl of crispy fried squid; potato salad with trout roe; and the black rice with tuna and tomatoes. Wash it all down with a couple of Wet Martinis, one of the prepared vermouths that packs a punch thanks to the sharp splash of orange bitters. —Lale Arikoglu, Articles Director
Alex Lau/KisarestaurantKisa
Kisa$$For years before we lived together, my current roommate lived on East Houston and Allen, and for years I’d emerge from the 2 Avenue station on that corner, en route to her apartment, and pass by the kitschy Cuban restaurant occupying the corner lot. That Cuban restaurant is gone, and what’s taken its place is so lived in and natural an addition to the neighborhood that at first I was surprised it was a new restaurant at all. This is Kisa, a traditional Korean joint emulating a kisa sikdang (taxi driver’s restaurant) from the people that opened C as in Charlie just north of Houston last year. Whereas the fare there is experimental (Korean fusion served tapas-style), Kisa is hearty and simple. Everyone walks in (no reservations!) and pays the same $32 (delicious shochu, Korean sake, comes at an additional $9+ a glass), and all you have to do is pick your protein: there’s bulgogi, spicy pork, spicy squid, and bori bibimbap for the vegetarians. This choice comes as the centerpiece of an enormous, stainless steel platter of seven or so banchan that might include housemade kimchi, cured shrimp, or seaweed. Soup and white rice are also included. It’s heavenly simple ordering, but the eating is anything but, as you mix and match flavors and textures in combinations of two and three. The dining room is straightforward, almost like an apartment, the service is glowingly friendly, and if you have a quarter there’s a clever machine by the door that will make you a mocha or hot chocolate to send you on your way. —Charlie Hobbs, associate editor
Jonathan Daniel Powers/Commodore IIrestaurantCommodore II
Commodore II$It's just good. This new Commodore location, located about as far east in the East Village as one can get without taking a dip in the East River, is just as good as its hallowed original Williamsburg location—albeit a bit fishier. That's only because the interiors, which duplicate the easy, beachy motifs of the original, go even farther with built-in fish tanks casting a happy blue pallor into the neon-lit bar-dining room. The food here is classic American dive food—the fried chicken (a plate of which will cost you $22) and biscuits may have but them on the map, but the burger and fish tacos are just as good at $14 and $17 respectively. The queso (served with french fries) is as simple as it gets with three ingredients: American cheese, whole milk, and chopped pickled jalapeños making me so so happy. —C.H.
Teddy Wolff/PennyrestaurantPenny
Penny$$A new wine and seafood spot from the Claud’s team has opened upstairs—though it’s one in a wave of such spots greeting NYC this year, this is one you don’t want to miss. The vibes are casual and cool and just the right amount industrial, the seafood ice-cold and well-garnished, and the wines are tightly curated with room for surprises (a highlight of my night was the 2021 “Dos Idiots” Cab Franc and Petit Menseng from Virginia, of all places). Start with an ice box for a mix of raw bar highlights—and pay extra attention to those pickled mussels—then consider the entire menu fair game. The oyster confit was a decadent small plate; the tuna carpaccio, unsurprisingly, fantastic, down to the olive oil and dainty onion sliver. Even the lettuce and wax beans in zingy vinaigrettes were among my favorites (get the fresh bread for sopping up whatever is left on your plate). The stuffed squid in a spicy sauce is incredibly popular, and I can see why—though of the hot dishes, the dover sole dotted with bone marrow and itsy bitsy mushrooms is the note I’m glad to have ended on. When you want fresh seafood without the nautical theme, or great wine without the rustic decor, sidle up to the bar at Penny with a friend or two. —M.S.
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Rey Lopez/Bourbon SteakrestaurantBourbon Steak
Bourbon Steak$$$Bourbon Steak is the kind of place I would take my mom to dinner at when she visits (that is, if my mom were less Californian, and more of a martini-and-steak right on the park kind of woman). This spot screams Uptown (or rather, politely whispers), and when I dipped into the moody, air-conditioned space on a balmy summer night, it was undeniably the choice of many for indulgent surf and turf—there’s a gold-trimmed cart that rolls past tables, proffering a regal King Crab; caviar service, seemingly a non-negotiable at any American restaurant these days, is Petrossian of Paris; and a section of the menu is titled “World of Wagyu.” It’s the same steakhouse concept chef Michael Mina has brought to cities like Miami and LA. Here, in his entry to New York City, the JW Marriott Essex House is its home. This restaurant is not rewriting history, or breaking boundaries: it’s just a very, very good incarnation of a classic experience, with some of the best service in town. Don’t be afraid to dip into the meat-free fare—the hearts of palm salad, the tuna tartare, and the scallops were serious highlights. —M.S.
Melissa Hom/TheodorarestaurantTheodora
Theodora$$$Miss Ada fans are already flocking to Theodora, the third Brooklyn restaurant by chef Tomer Blechman, and with good reason. With a Mediterranean menu focused on dry-aged fish, seasonal produce, and open-fired dishes, it’s just as flavorful as the dips and shawarma plates found at its sister restaurant, with a slightly more upscale vibe that lends itself to birthday, anniversary, or other special occasion dinners (fair warning, you may balk at some of the small plate pricing—come with a group to try a little bit of everything). Open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday, the Fort Greene restaurant was packed on my recent Sunday evening visit; there’s a mix of bar seating (with spots saved for walk-ins), tables, and booths, with decor to match the seafood-heavy menu—I wanted to swipe the decorative fish skeleton for my own kitchen. As for what to order, the Za’atar Kubaneh ($15), which looks like a savory cinnamon roll and is served with flavor-packed schug, tomato aioli, and harissa sauces, is made for Instagramming but is also savor-the-last-bite delicious. Other standouts were a creamy black cod ($31) served with green asparagus, pea shoots, and snap peas, and the smoky, spicy garlic lima beans (a special the night I went), which I could’ve eaten three servings of. If you’re drinking, there are plenty of fun ingredients woven into the cocktail menu ($18 a pop), from feta and harissa to artichoke and caperberry, as well as a natural wine menu and two zero-proof options, including the popular Phony Negroni. —Madison Flager, senior commerce editor
Francesco Sapienza/SendorestaurantSendo
Sendo$$I am tempted to gatekeep such an impressive, well-priced, and high-quality sushi spot, but it undoubtedly belongs on this list. Sendo may look like your classic hand roll bar or omakase counter, but they are anything but. The offering here is simple: a Tokyo-style sushi bar on the second floor of an NYC walkup, masterfully led by Head Chef Kevin Ngo, an alumnus of Sushi Nakazawa and Masa. At the core of Sendo’s mission is speed and affordability—you can walk into this no-reservations spot (go for lunch or their first dinner seating to avoid a long wait) and be in and out in under 30 minutes. Menu items include sets of nigiri and hand rolls for $45 or less, or you can order as many pieces of buttery Otoro as your heart desires à la carte. Everything on Sendo’s small but mighty menu has been meticulously designed to a T, and the craftsmanship here is palatable (literally and figuratively!)—their team went through a 6-month testing period to choose their favorite strain of rice, a smooth and polished short grain from Hokkaido, and then thoughtfully crafted a vinegar to pair best alongside it. While you can likely find this attention to detail in other expensive corners of the NYC sushi scene, no other players have perfected the top-tier reasonably-priced option quite as well as Sendo has. Sendo’s menu is also entirely gluten-free aside from their unagi eel—an incredibly difficult, and appreciated, accommodation to find in the world of sushi. —E.A.
Noah Fecks/Chica & the DonrestaurantChica & The Don
Chica & The Don$$$Gramercy Park finally gets the vibey, late-night restaurant it deserves with Chica & the Don, the latest endeavor from Nick Semkiw (currently partner at popular Lower East Side rum bar Las' Lap) and Executive Chef Michelle Chan. Advertised as refined Latin American street food, the creative menu draws inspiration from the team’s heritage in Nicaragua, The Dominican Republic, Peru, Colombia, Argentina, and Mexico. My personal favorites were the arroz chaufa (Peruvian style lobster and shrimp fried rice) and the elote cups (charred corn kernels, tajin, kewpie, cotija). Other standouts included the roasted chicken (fired table-side), several different ceviche and empanadas options, and tapas you will most definitely be craving if you stumble through here at midnight: think short rib and plantain quesadillas, crispy yucca fries, and puffed chicharron. As you’d expect, the cocktails are fun and flavorful—the refreshing Meloncito is the perfect summertime tipple with flecha azul tequila, lime, grand marnier, honeydew melon, and pineapple; or if you’re in the mood for rum, the Cabana Verde is a fresh twist on a mojito with a hint of kiwi. Open until 2 a.m. Thursday through Saturday with music and dancing on the weekends, this is a place to fully embrace the sobremesa tradition, with comfy booth seating ideal for swapping stories and sharing dishes long into the night. —Hannah Towey, associate editor
Francesco Sapienza/SawarestaurantSawa
Sawa$$There’s a burst of lovely Levantine restaurants opening in New York right now, and Sawa is a reminder that this is only good news. The bright little Lebanese spot comes alive in the evening with vibe-y music and groups of friends sharing hunks of lamb and unbelievably creamy hummus. And it’s no ordinary hummus—beef cheeks, braised til they’re so soft you can cut with a spoon, sit atop the $17 mezze dish. From there, we tucked into a chicory salad, colorful with pomegranate seeds (also $17), and extremely garlicky crispy potatoes that you’ll love or hate (I loved, $12.) But the thing I can’t stop thinking about, and that I will go back explicitly for? The raw lamb kibbeh nayeh ($22). Ground with bulgar and sumac, and meant to be scooped up with a crispy pita chip, my server politely disclosed that it was mainly popular with Lebanese guests who already knew and loved the dish. I couldn’t resist—and thank God I didn't. I can still taste the creamy blend of spices and olive oil that made this dish more interesting than any tartare I’ve ever had. Expect to see me alone, at the bar, with that and a cocktail any day of the week. Or maybe a nonalcoholic rose-water lemonade, because their spirit-free menu is pretty good, too. —M.S.
Paul Quitoriano/YingtaorestaurantYingtao
Yingtao$$$Hell’s Kitchen in Manhattan isn’t exactly synonymous with haute contemporary cuisine; in the neighborhood, you’re more likely to battle for seats at drag bingo than a tasting menu. But this Chinese fine dining concept is a handsome new arrival, bringing boat-loads of polish—a black marble bar and kitchen counter; brass chairs and tabletops, stealthy splashes of scarlet—and skillful focus. Chef Jakub Baster (an alum of Monsieur Boulud’s eponymous Daniel and La Dame de Pic at the Four Seasons Hotel Megève in the French Alps) offers only two options for dinner at Yingtao: the eight-course tasting menu ($165) or a four-course pre-fixe ($90); customize it with low- and no- ABV cocktails or the wine pairing (all of it brilliant, and curated and served by the affable drinks director Bobby Snyder). As for the food itself: stunning. A Hong Kong-raised friend joined me for the full tasting and we were both mightily impressed by the techniques and inventiveness that remixed regional Chinese classics from places like Shanghai, Xi’an, and Guangzhou. I inhaled the kampachi—a.k.a. yellowtail or amberjack—topped with caviar; a silky tofu dish served with celery root; the crab noodles with a soy yolk and smoked flying fish roe; the hake with spring vegetables; and a coconut dessert of nian gao, a rice cake most often served during the Lunar New Year. The service is attentive and the kitchen well-oiled—the galley is open entirely to the dining room, a stage where diners can watch the cooks move efficiently and silently. All that said, any praise I have is secondary to the true vote of confidence and affirmation of Yingtao’s success that I witnessed during my visit: a large and festive group composed of Chinese mainlanders in their Crazy Rich Asians best, proudly taking photos with the crew, eager to spread the good word of Chinese American cooking at its finest. —M.O.
Patrick Dolande/TadhanarestaurantTadhana
Tadhana$$$“Hole in the wall” takes on a whole new meaning with Tadhana, a new Filipino restaurant with a 16-course tasting menu. Chef Frances Tariga, who was notably on Top Chef, came from the Philippines to New York in 2011, and masterfully showcases her native cuisine throughout a thoughtful dining experience. The restaurant space was previously a coffee shop, with an unassuming facade opening to just 24 seats. Bread service started our meal off with Igorot whole grain and wild rice bread) served with a spicy coconut jam and Kesong Puti (homemade Filipino cheese), while our next course was creatively showcased in a hollowed-out green velvet book (yes, a book, which opens to reveal fresh vegetable spring rolls and anchovy fritters with bean sprouts and sweet potato). The rest of the tasting menu consisted of traditional flavors with modern touches, leading up to two dreamy dessert bites: a liquid-nitrogen-frozen jackfruit crunchy treat and mochi donuts topped with shaved truffle and smothered in liquid dark chocolate. Tadhana’s journey of flavors will set you back $185, but you will be left smitten thinking about all the unique flavors that your palate just enjoyed. —E.A.
Chris Coe/Cafe MadorestaurantCafe Mado
Cafe Mado$$One evening, a month or so after the Michelin-starred Oxalis celebrated its fifth anniversary, I posted up to my “local” hoping to squeeze in an early seating for what was, in my mind, one of the city’s best (for value and quality) tasting menus. To my great sadness, I found it shuttered. A few months later, the unassuming storefront in Prospect Heights has reopened, albeit with a new name and personality. Cafe Mado, named for Marie Louise “Madame Mado” Point, the wife and business partner of the father of modern French cuisine, Fernando Point comes from the team behind Oxalis and Clinton Hill wine bar Places des Fêtes—chef and partner Nico Russell was a reassuring presence when I visited—and many of the waitstaff remain, poised and attentive. The big change comes from the shapeshifting Mado does throughout the day, starting with bakery service in the morning, complete with baked goods coming from sister establishment Laurel, recently opened in Brooklyn Heights. Then, as the day unfolds, Mado transitions into an all-day cafe, offering sandwiches and tartines for lunch and heartier small plates for dinner. The space has been reorganized to cater to this: they’ve created an open area in the front with high-top tables, and moved formal seating to the back. While the tasting menu may be gone, the produce-driven cooking remains, with the menu leaning on a “seasonally changing pantry of ferments, vinegars, and misos.” Standout dishes included what might be one of the best pissaladières I’ve had with anchovy, Taggiasca olives, and on focaccia from Laurel; perfectly blanched asparagus sitting pretty on an excellent bagna cauda; the Tony, a grilled mortadella sandwich made with a sesame-seeded English muffin-style bun that’s a tribute to Anthony Bourdain; and a poised-for-summer fava bean pici brightened with mint and lemon. Another highlight? The sunny back garden that welcomes walk-ins looking to relax with a glass or two from Mado's perfectly curated wine list. This is where you'll find me, all summer long. —A.M.
Gloria Xu/RamrorestaurantRamro
Ramro$$Queens is the most ethnically diverse borough in New York City—in the world, according to the Guinness Book of World Records—so it seems only natural that a Filipino chef and a Nepali mixologist have come together to create Ramro, a laidback eatery in Astoria that serves a $99 six-course tasting menu on Saturdays. Reservations for all three seatings (5 p.m., 7 p.m., and 9 p.m.) are elusive, but the a la carte experience (served from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m. on Thursdays, Fridays, and Sundays) is distinctly its own and delicious. Sit at the kitchen counter and let Ravi Thapa, the Nepali owner-operator-bartender, and Raymund Embarquez, the Filipino executive chef, talk you through each dish and drink anyway. Some personal favorites: cauliflower dressed with honey and togarashi ($15); the skewers of longanisa—a spiced-and-sugared sausage I grew up eating in the Philippines—made with Japanese wagyu beef ($10); skate wing in a coconut sauce served with puri ($27); a pistachio-and-coffee take on silvanas, a Filipino meringue dessert ($11); and a brilliant cheddar ice cream (another classic Filipino treat) blanketed in parmesan cheese ($7). Here, the scene is chill (a casual crowd willing to pay for good food), the cocktails creative and low-ABV (they’ve only a beer-and-wine license), and the portions just right (for each person, I reccomend a starter, a main, and a dessert). The crew told me they’re still tinkering with the menu—Nepali inspiration is primarily found in the glass, not yet the plate; I already have a reservation to try a mussels dish in a ginger broth with scallion oil—but Ramro is already a fantastically unique and ambitious kitchen that’s worth the trip. Even the most commute-averse New Yorkers should make the trek from Brooklyn to Queens—and bring their out-of-town guests with them. —M.O.
Alice Gao/San SabinorestaurantSan Sabino
San Sabino$$$The seafood-heavy sister restaurant to the inimitable Don Angie was the hardest table in town to book well before it opened. If you are fortunate enough to elbow your way into a Resy, or walk in to snag one of their wooden bar stools, take your time. Start with a cocktail. We did negronis and note-perfect dry martinis, finished with a thick peel of lemon, just like they are on the Amalfi. The space itself recalled the fabled Italian coastline, with warm, sunny yellows and pops of Mediterranean blues, but an impressive bar with hand carved stools and leather booths make the place feel every part of an upscale West Village restaurant. And then, the food. After stints at Torrisi and the helm of Don Angie, chef Angie Rito knows a thing or two about Italian-American cuisine, which is how San Sabino classifies itself. Though here, she reinvents it even further. Contrary to red sauce norms, the menu is heavy on lighter dishes, like exceptional salads (the tricolore Sabino is their take on a Caesar) and crudos (the spicy tuna with broken arancini was my favorite bite of the night) and a smart, tight selection of pasta dishes. I resisted the urge to get meatballs and Sunday sauce manicotti and went full fish, because, when in Amalfi…. The crab-filled farfalle was delicate and wonderfully sauced as was the lobster triangoli. We had to order the restaurant’s viral dish, the shrimp parm, with heads popping out from layers of red sauce and cheese, sizzling on a silver platter. Risking backlash, I will say that it was good, but it’s not a can’t-miss. Instead, opt for an additional dish of what Rito does so exceptionally here - the fresher, lighter seafood (another crudo, or perhaps the halibut). And if you (like me) still need that fix of more on-the-nose Italian American, it is nice to know that Rito’s meatball spiedini—deliciously seasoned, served on a skewer—can be ordered with any dish, on the side. —Erin Florio, executive editor
MorirestaurantMori
Mori$$$Omakase spots are popping up all over New York City these days—and at so many different price points—but true quality, hospitality, and expertise are still few and far between. Enter Mori, a new contemporary omakase spot offering an assortment of seasonal fish and seafood flown directly from Japan. Led by Chef Solomon Halim & Chef Andre Wijaya, opening chefs for Catch & Shuko respectively, Mori offers an assortment of creative and flavorful dishes at a fairly-priced $125 for 16 courses. Notable highlights include the smoked hamachi with a homemade truffle emulsion (they’ll be selling this by the bottle soon…you’ll want to drink it) and their perfectly sized hand rolls, like the king salmon with taro root—a glorious combination of textures. Dinner is topped off with a delicious sweet bite—sometimes overlooked in an omakase meal—of a matcha mascarpone cookie with white chocolate. The cozy yet swanky dimly-lit atmosphere of the 11-seat counter is a more-than-welcome addition to the NYC omakase scene, and the highly courteous team will make sure you’re well taken care of for any dining occasion. —E.A.
Katrine Moite/BungalowrestaurantBungalow
Bungalow$$When Bungalow opened in the East Village this spring, it didn’t take long for it to join the ranks of restaurants that are impossible to get into. Certainly, there was the promise of an excellent Indian meal but equally, there was excitement—especially among the diaspora—to be in the same room as Chef Vikas Khanna, erstwhile at Michelin-starred Junoon and the host of MasterChef India. When I visit, ducking through its marigold-draped front door and into a lobby bar, he’s working the room like a celebrity, dispensing hugs and smiling for selfies. Bungalow is Khanna’s joint venture with Jimmy Rizvi, of Gramercy's GupShup, and a nod to the diverse span of Indian cooking, from Kashmir at its crown all the way down to Kerala. Here, you’ll find everything from a sweet potato chaat served on Delhi’s streets in spring to Chitranee, a Jewish-Indian chicken curry with shishito and tamarind, and sheermal, a spongy bread that’s a delicacy in places like Lucknow and Hyderabad. For our meal, we sat in an airy room filled with greenery and light streaming in through a glass-pane roof. The restaurant is named after the English word for bangla or a single-story home, coined during India’s colonial past to indicate a particular style of house that included spacious verandahs, overhanging roofs, and large gardens. The decor isn’t the only throwback. Khanna’s take on Goan shrimp balchão is inspired by the cream puff cones of traditional Indian bakeries and the molten Black Forest cake is a nod to a popular childhood birthday cake in India, but finished off with gulab jamun-flavored ice cream and cherry compote. As we leave, Khanna plucks a flower off a fragrant bouquet of Nargis—a Daffodil variant that grows in the upper reaches of the Himalayas—and hands it to me to tuck into my hair. “It’s how we treat our guests,” he said. As we walk out, large groups of diners are pouring in. I think to myself: He’s going to need a lot of Nargis tonight. —Arati Menon, global digital director
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