Review: Waldorf Astoria Edinburgh - The Caledonian

Start us off with the big picture. What's this place like? How does it strike you on arrival? The old bones of this early-1900s railway station on Princes Street have been beautifully resorted: The sandstone Victorian exterior makes the hotel look part embassy, part tourist attraction in its own right. You enter through a revolving door where a charming kilted doorman greets you with a smile, takes your bags, and shows you into the bright, surprisingly serene (for a city hotel) marble lobby.

How did the Caledonian come to be? Princes Street Station and its hotel have been around since the turn of the 20th century, within sight of the Edinburgh Castle, looming above on the hill. Though the station itself was torn down in the late 1960s, the Caledonian hotel remained, and has been under Waldorf Astoria's ownership since 2012. The Waldorf Astoria's adoption has been good for the beloved "Caley," with the hallmarks of the brand—the Guerlain Spa, Peacock Alley (created here from the station concourse) adding reliable luxury.

Take us up to the rooms—what can we expect? The 241 rooms have been updated in sleek and smoky blues and grays, and many—rooms and suites alike—come with castle views. But you could also draw the blackout curtains on these extra-high windows, settle into the gloriously comfy bed with Egyptian cotton linens, and not hear a soul as you sleep off the jet lag. It's astounding, how quiet and serene the rooms are; opt for a queen or king suite for a separate living room (good for families traveling who want to stash a crib somewhere) and those high, high ceilings.

Sounds relaxing. Once we've settled in, we're likely to want a bit of a pick-me-up—what are our options on site? Head immediately to Peacock Alley, a Waldorf trademark that serves as a combination bar, lounge, dining room, and way station just off the lobby, where you'll find suits having power lunches and travelers kicked back in oversized armchairs enjoying a dram of whisky or tea at (almost) all hours. We enjoyed breakfast in Peacock Alley, sitting by the piano or beneath the historic Caledonian station clock, but you can also dine in the attached Galvin Brasserie de Luxe, a chic French bistro with ceramic tiles and the same breakfast spread (also open to the public for lunch and dinner with a menu by the Michelin-starred Galvin brothers). The Pompadour sounds like its name—high class, much ado about dinner—with an eight-course tasting menu that changes with the seasons; it's also the winner of Scottish Hotel Awards 2019's Fine Dining Restaurant Hotel of the Year.

How's the service? It's why you're here—it's fantastic. The bar's already high, since Scottish hospitality is the among the friendliest out there, but it also has the Waldorf Astoria touch. To wit: If you travel with a toddler, they may put a teddy bear in your room.

It sounds like we'll have little reason to want to leave the hotel, but we are in Edinburgh—so how does the Caledonian fit into the surrounding neighborhood? One of the greatest perks of staying at the Caley is its location: You're within sight of the Edinburgh Castle (though downhill of it—it takes a somewhat steep walk or a very short cab ride to get there). Princes Street Gardens is across the way, which means you can stroll through it one day, then head uphill and walk the Royal Mile, one of Old Town's hallmarks, the next day. Super convenient.

Okay, and any other little details that helped make your stay all the more comfortable? Wi-Fi in the lobby, Peacock Alley, and rooms was speedy (hence all the business travelers here); the bathrobes were the kind you wanted to sleep in; Salvatore Ferragamo products lined the shower shelves; and in-room Nespresso and shortbread helped to ward off the winter chill. And the Guerlain Spa is among the best in the U.K.

Got it. So when you get down to it, what makes this hotel so special? The staff makes you feel completely welcome, no matter how bedraggled you may look: like you're coming home when you roll in from a soggy Edinburgh day, laden with bags, worn out from touristing, and just want to settle into a settee in Peacock Alley with a hot tea and stay awhile.