Review: Mandarin Oriental, Lago di Como

Set the scene. It comes as no surprise to learn that this stripey lakeside residence with its eclectic tower was built for a 19th-century opera singer. The main building, fronted by a pool that seems to float in the lake, is just one of nine villas that emerge from verdant gardens landscaped like a set design for La Donna del Lago by Rossini—who was a frequent visitor back in the day. It’s a lovely, dress-for-dinner kind of place but somehow laid-back at the same time, glamorous yet also discreet. Mandarin Oriental has now put its signature swish on everything, making it perhaps slightly flashier and more traditional than, say, nearby Il Sereno, but not as formal and grand as family-run Villa d’Este.

What’s the backstory? The main villa was built for an opera singer with the delightful name of Giuditta ("Judith") Pasta. After changing hands several times over the years, and adding outbuildings, the estate opened in 2010 as a rather solemn hotel called CastaDiva Resort, which never really hit its stride. Taken over by the Mandarin Oriental group in 2018, it reopened in April 2019 after a major refurb.

What can we expect in our room? Most rooms have lake views and, quite rightly, don’t try to compete with them. The décor is very calming, with pale earth tones dominating and lots of natural wood (for example, oak parquet floors) and textiles. The Mandarin imprint comes through in a few East Asian touches, including framed works on cotton paper by Milan-based artist Shuhei Matsuyama.

How about the food and drink? Chef Vincenzo Guarino is from Vico Equense, near Naples, and for all the global influences, showy technique, and presentation there’s something very rootsy and Southern about his approach. In a signature dish at L'Aria, he takes Carnaroli rice from a small local producer and turns it into a sapid risotto with a base of yellow tomatoes and baked milk, topped with basil shoots and red prawns cooked shabu shabu style. It’s no wonder the restaurant was awarded a Michelin star at the end of its very first season in 2019. Aperitivo time is a real treat, thanks to the bravura of head barman Luca De Fillipis (who the hotel’s engaging GM, Samuel Porreca, brought with him when he moved here from J.K. Place Roma).

What’s the crowd like? Pretty international. It also skews younger than expected, and is a mix of honeymoon or anniversary couples, European long weekenders, small family groups, and the occasional fashion-obsessed socialite combining a stay here with a few days in Milan, a 45-minute drive away.

Anything to say about the service? It’s everything we've come to expect from the brand, but with a light-hearted Italian touch.

What’s the neighborhood scene like? With its own lake frontage, the hotel is a private enclave that most guests never leave, except maybe to take a motorboat cruise across to Cernobbio on the western shore or north to pretty Bellagio. There are plenty of walks on offer though, including an easy stroll to the nearby village of Tornio, whose church bells mark the passing hours.

Anything else to add? The green details extend to the parts of the resort guests don’t see, like the offices (no plastic water coolers, each member of staff has their own refillable aluminum bottle) or the kitchens, where even the cling wrap, made from sweetcorn starch, is biodegradable and compostable.

Anything you’d change? Though impressive, the pool that "floats" in the lake, with its teak decking and ship's railings, is a little incongruous.

Is it worth it? The dollar count might seem high, but it does stack up when looking at the return on investment, namely the lakeside location, the reliability of the brand, and the top-notch service. And by Italian ultra-glossy standards, the two entry level categories (Superior and Deluxe) aren't even that pricey—though for a full lake view you’ll need to start with a Vista Lago room, which sells for $860 a night in low season. The Penthouse and Panoramic Suites are as spectacular as their elevated price tags suggest.