Review: Meadowood Napa Valley

Why book?

There are a lot of excellent places to stay in this part of California wine country—with more big, global luxury brands opening here every year—but Meadowood has been the veritable heart of this region for over 40 years, and it shows. In a nutshell, it feels marvelously, authentically, singularly Napa—from its 36 guest rooms and suites designed by locally-based, globally-renowned architect Howard Bracken, to its impressive wine center spotlighting the areas best vineyards, and a spa that taps into the area’s centuries-old legacy as a wellness destination.

Set the scene

Any drive through Napa is a treat, and coming north from San Francisco is like driving through the history of New World winemaking. Napa was the second American Viticultural Area (the domestic version of an appellation) and arguably the best known, and as you head to Meadowood you see names of the growing regions that you’ve clocked on your favorite bottles—Carneros, Rutherford, Coomsville. Pulling off Silverado Trail, Napa’s bucolic thoroughfare, you pass by vineyards and stands of silver-green olive trees before pulling into the property. At the heart of the property, which feels almost like a valley floor, are the resort’s three different swimming pools (adult, family, lap), the main restaurant, and the spa. The 36 cottages and suites are terraced up the surrounding hillsides. The landscaping is understated and not overly manicured—lots of native oak trees, grasses and shrubs—which adds to the natural, unfussy feel of the property. Meadowood has a club component, so it’s common to see members who live in the nearby town of St. Helena or elsewhere in Napa at the pool, having lunch, or taking a tennis lesson from one of the resort’s pros. This creates a lovely background bonhomie—member guests know each other, they know the staff, they feel at home and in turn, are welcoming to resort guests.

The backstory

Meadowood has a lovely history with community and family at its origin. In 1978, William Harlan (a very well known Napa name and the vintner behind the internationally esteemed Harlan Estates) purchased Meadowood, which was then a run down country club. Over the years, he grew it to an 85-cottage and suite property with a golf course, an excellent spa and, its crown jewel, the three-starred Michelin restaurant Meadowood helmed by chef Christopher Kostow (it was one of only five restaurants in the West to get that rating). In late September 2020, the hospitality world, including foodies around the world, watched in horror as parts of this beloved resort, including the restaurant, were consumed by the Glass Fire. But 36 rooms scattered throughout the oak-filled hills, the pools and the spa remained intact and are as amazing as ever. The hotel has always had strong regional roots; and it continues to be a gathering place for Napa families who use it like a country club. A new restaurant is in the near-future plans for the property and while its room-count is down, its welcoming vibe and serene setting are at an all time high.

The rooms

The guest rooms and suites have a sort of chic barn feel. They aren’t at all rustic—clean lines, a sea of white and neutrals—but the wainscotting and high, beamed ceilings do give fancy farmhouse energy. Rooms all have private porches and while they are open-planned and airy, the fireplaces, soaking tubs, window seats and comfy sofas keep things cozy. The bathrooms are a particular delight with Flamingo Estate products and plenty of storage for your toiletries and enough hooks so you don’t have to hang your wet towel over the door (hooks and storage shouldn’t be such novelties in high end hotels but somehow are).

Food and drink

As mentioned, the destruction of The Restaurant at Meadowood in the 2020 wildfire was a huge loss. Hopefully, the plan to reopen with Chef Kostow behind it will actually come to fruition. In the meantime, there are a few solid options—more casual for sure than the Michelin-starred spot was, but still tasty. There’s the Terrace Cafe—al fresco and open only to guests of the resort and club members—that serves light, local fare. I had an excellent ceviche and quinoa bowl and the open-to-the-public, all-day spot Forum. The menu leans locally-sourced and has excellent vegetarian options as well as, not surprisingly, a stellar wine list.

The spa

The spa is a real highlight and should not be missed. The space is soothing—low lit, a big fireplace, deep sofas in the entry area. The vibe is welcoming and a true continuation of the resort’s aesthetic (rather than some minimalist, antiseptic annex, which is often the case) with lots of neutrals and dark grays, olive-hued tones and organic materials. There are lovely outdoor gardens and the treatment rooms (six individual and two for couples; one specialty room is partially open to the elements and has a private outdoor soaking tub) capitalize on the setting. My spa suite had huge windows that looked out over a hillside and the window was kept open so I could feel the breeze and hear birdsong—much better than piped-in spa muzak. I had a massage and a facial (my therapist was a masseuse and esthetician) and really knew what she was doing. Nothing felt cookie cutter or like she was going through the motions—she listened to my concerns, made suggestions and, at one point (after getting my permission) put on gloves and did some work in my mouth to help release my jaw. Most hotel treatments are nice but not mind blowing—these were. I would come for the spa alone.

The neighborhood/area

The property is about three miles from the shops and restaurants of downtown St. Helena. The surrounding area is pretty rural—forests, vineyards. Even though you could zip into town by bike or car, you do feel like the resort is tucked away in nature.

The service The staff is warm, helpful and knowledgeable. This is Napa, so service is high but it’s also California, so formality and fussiness are not.

For families

It’s a great place for families. There are several miles of hiking trails with a secret meditation labyrinth at the end of one trail, tennis courts, and one of the three pools is a dedicated family pool.

Eco effort

Like most places in this wildfire-prone part of the state, landscaping is kept to mostly native or drought-tolerant plants that don’t require a huge amount of water. In the wake of the Glass Fire, the property has replanted 2300 trees and has additional reforestation efforts planned. The resort leans into sourcing locally (wine, food, spa ingredients) and hiring locally.

Accessibility

Unfortunately the rooms that met ADA requirements were located on the part of the property that was destroyed during the fires.

Anything left to mention?

It’s very easy to skip a hotel store, but Meadowood has three excellent ones that are worth checking out—especially the Estate Boutique, which has a tightly curated selection of clothes, gifts, and books.