Review: Aman Venice

Tell us about this place. What sets it apart in Venice?
In a city awash with much-loved legends—the Cipriani, the Danieli, and the Gritti Palace—this relative newcomer wins out for its insider location, intimate size, and proper Italian aristo experience, where palazzo pomp meets understated Aman smarts. And what an entrance: under the Rialto Bridge in a glossy Riva, and up to Palazzo Papadopoli’s private jetty on the Grand Canal.

Who's behind the property?
Aman is best known for its ultra-minimal Asian beach hotels. So news it was opening a hotel in Venice in a palazzo was something of a shock to die-hard Aman junkies. But, of course, the group nailed it, partnering up with proper Venetian aristos Gilberto and Bianca Arrivabene (he’s a count; she’s a princess), taking over all the family’s 16th-century Palazzo Papadopoli (one of only eight palazzo monumentali in Venice) and pairing the priceless frescos, enormous Murano chandeliers, and opulent silks with trademark minimal design—low-slung B&B Italia works remarkably well against all that gilt. The Arrivabenes still live in the top floors, so you’ll doubtless see them knocking about, giving it all a grand-house guest vibe.

Tell us about your room. Did it live up to expectations?
Huge, muted, chic, but damn it, I missed out on the frescos. There are just 24 bedrooms here, all slotted into the palazzo’s original rooms, so each is unique, some—the best—with all the palazzo flourishes you’d expect and Grand Canal views. Try the Alcova Tiepolo Suite to sleep beneath Giovanni Battista Tiepolo’s cherub-filled frescos (like the Clooneys did on their wedding night), with walls lined in dove-grey Rubelli silks. Or the Sansovino Suite, with its standout fireplace by 16th-century architect Jacopo d'Antonio Sansovino.

Once we've settled into our room, we're probably a bit hungry. What are the options on site?
The slightly out-of-kilter Asia-meets-Italy menu has been ditched for ultra-Italian restaurant Arva—melt-in-the-mouth Fassona beef carpaccio, rabbit cappelletti pasta, and fish stew sourced from the Rialto market. Don’t miss Sunday brunch to feast on lobster Benedict or hazelnut pancakes in the Grand-Canal-side gardens.

What's the service like?
Faultless and seamless, with your-wish-is-our-command insider access, such as after-hours access to the Doge’s Palace, and aperitivo in the Clock Tower in San Marco.

Who are you likely to see here?
The very rich and the very famous. Butter-soft suede loafers and Loro Piano cashmere.

And how does it fit into the surrounding area?
Tucked away in San Polo (a.k.a. the other side of the Rialto Bridge from tourist-rammed San Marco), this is a very clever choice and barely a sign to know it’s there—but still a hop and a skip from the very thick of it. Venice isn’t short of grand hotels with interesting stories, but for location, intimacy, and sheer stupendousness, this is hard to beat.

Are there any other facilities we should take note of?
It’s an Aman, so of course there’s a spa with superb holistic therapies—some using Aman’s new natural skincare line—dispensed in the three ancient-beamed treatment rooms.

Is there anything you'd change?
The prices, dear god—they’re enough to sink the city, but what did you expect?

So given the price, do you think it's worth the investment?
If you want the full Italian aristo experience in Venice, this is as close as you can get, while not sacrificing any of the super-smart hotel slick that Aman brings to the party. Sleep under priceless frescos, drink spritzes overlooking the Grand Canal—this is a very special place in a very special city.