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Cartagena is in Johanna Ortiz's blood. Though she grew up in Cali, on Colombia's Pacific coast, she has been visiting the storied colonial city all her life and has kept a home there for nearly two decades. Its colors and textures—along with the rich biodiversity and Indigenous traditions of her native country—have shaped her evolution as a designer, manifesting themselves in bright, punchy prints and feminine, often ruffled silhouettes. “I have so many memories of discovering this city,” she says. “I remember wandering through the historic center and cherishing its magic—cobbled streets protected by imposing walls, heavy cannons. It has enriched me with its color palette and opened my eyes to its gracefulness.” Here, she shares her favorite places in Cartagena, including where to dance to the best salsa bands, order the tastiest mojitos, and score the finest handmade crafts.
The best bites in the city
“The Cuban restaurant La Vitrola is an institution in Cartagena. There's always the most vibrant crowd and a band playing son cubano music. My go-to order is the yellowfin tuna and panko-breaded prawns accompanied by a mojito. Donjuán is another favorite. This airy bistro with high ceilings and tropical details like woven lampshades serves amazing locally sourced food, conjured up by chef Juan Felipe Camacho. You honestly can't go wrong with any dish. On Sunday nights, the best way to end a weekend is with pizza, crab claws, and prawns in grape leaves at Juan del Mar, where the tables spill out onto Plaza de San Diego.”
Sightseeing and people-watching
“It's no wonder that writers, artists, and poets have made Cartagena their muse, celebrating its colors, Spanish architecture, and joyful people. There are beautiful 16th-and 17th-century buildings, including Castillo de San Felipe, an imposing hilltop fortress; Catedral Santa Catalina; and Iglesia de San Pedro Claver. To soak up the atmosphere of the city, visit Plaza de Santo Domingo, which is packed with crowds eating at outdoor tables. Plaza de la Aduana in the old town is also great for people-watching.”
Get your culture fix
“In January, there's a great variety of concerts at the Music Festival. The Hay Festival usually takes place in February, with talks about literature, visual arts, film, music, geopolitics, journalism, and the environment. Last year, I loved the Daughters of the Water exhibition by Colombian photographer Ruvén Afanador and artist Ana González Rojas. It was a tribute to the country's 26 Indigenous communities, from the Amazon to the Guajira region on the Caribbean coast.”
Where to score the best souvenirs
“I can spend an entire afternoon looking for books in the Ábaco bookstore; at night, I'll hit Plaza de San Diego, where artisans sell handcrafted earrings, bracelets, mochilas (traditional bags), baskets, and hats. Casa Chiqui has beautifully curated pieces like pendant lamps and handwoven cushions made by Colombian artisans. For designer items by homegrown talent, I love Malva department store.”
Take a daytrip
“Barú peninsula and the Rosario Islands, a short boat ride from the city, are together home to more than 200 species of birds, friendly locals, and stunning crystal-clear Caribbean waters. I like to spend the day relaxing in breezy wooden cabanas on white sands and then return to town in the evening for sunset drinks.”
This article appeared in the July/August 2023 issue of Condé Nast Traveler. Subscribe to the magazine here.
