When my sister was working for the UN in Senegal, I spent any long weekend I could visiting her in Dakar. The city—a Franco–West African mashup with an innovative music scene, excellent textile shopping, and lively beaches (think Rio or Venice: families, surfers, body builders)—has been one of the safest and most politically stable in the region for decades. It’s also the most accessible, thanks to a jump in overnight flights from the East Coast (Delta has a seven-hour nonstop from JFK). After you land, drop your bags—I like the Radisson Blu Hotel for its pool and sea views—and head for lunch at Le Lagon 1, a local institution that every visiting celeb and dignitary hits, with a sexy, St-Tropez vibe and a private beach.
Over the next few days, check out the Musée Théodore Monod’s collection of traditional African art and dive into the alleyways of the Marché HLM for bolts of dyed bazin, wax-printed fabric, and brodé cloth. And you’ll definitely want to spend an afternoon on Île de Gorée, a tiny island two miles offshore settled by Portuguese in the 1400s. Wander the colonial streets and visit the Maison des Esclaves—a merchant’s home turned monument to the slave trade. Back in the city, have an alfresco dinner at Le Bideew, in the garden of the Institut Français de Dakar, before hitting a music club—you can always sleep on the plane.
Make It An All-Nighter
"In Dakar, music is everywhere—in concert halls, dusty clubs, cafés, and at the back of any bus where speakers blast out jazz, hip-hop, and mbalax (the super catchy local dance music that mixes driving, traditional sabar drumming with pop, popularized by Youssou N’Dour). Stay on your U.S. clock—clubs don’t hit full tilt until midnight and throttle on through dawn. To hear big-name acts like Cheikh Lô (whose sound is a blend of mlabax and reggae) and world-music pioneer Orchestra Baobab, stop by Just4U. For a chance to see rising mbalax stars like Wally Ballago Seck and Ibaaku, hit the incubator club Penc Mi. Feeling experimental? You can catch a high-energy electro-pop show at Les Petites Pierres. And if you’re not, the upscale, lounge-y Barramundi is a civilized spot for jazz and a glass of bubbly. The British magazine Songlines organizes a music trip to Senegal every November." —Austin Merrill, co-founder of @everydayafrica
Stay Longer
"There’s a lot to see outside of Dakar (the world-famous tapestry workshop in Thiès; the bird sanctuary in Djoudj National Park north of Saint Louis, and the Great Mosque of Touba). But if you have time for just one side trip, head to the quiet fishing village of Toubab Dialaw, about an hour south of the capital on the strip of pristine Atlantic coastline that stretches towards Gambia known as La Petite Côte. There are numerous beach resorts, especially in the town of Saly, but we like the Hotel Sobo Bade—which, set on a bluff and fashioned out of seashells and coral, looks like something out of a Gaudí dreamscape. Order a beer at sunset and settle into the courtyard overlooking the beach to watch the local kids play soccer, or, if you’re lucky, a rehearsal by a local dance troupe." —A.M.
Surf's Up
“Dakar has sandy beginner breaks like Yoff Beach and world-class waves right off Ngor Island, the same ones you see at the start of The Endless Summer. To surf with the locals—the teenagers come after school; families on weekends—head to Secret Spot, in the Almadies neighborhood, rent a board at Quiksilver Boardriders (you won’t need a wet suit). Finish up with a post-surf beer and crêpe at Noflaye Beach café.” —Yodit Eklund, owner of made-in-Africa beachwear brand Bantu Wax
Everything You Need to Know
Stops: Dakar, Île de Gorée, La Petite Côte
Days: 3-4
When to Go: Avoid the wet season in August and September
