A Local’s Guide to Vietnam

A collective of producers and DJs co-founded by Anh Phi Trần, Linh Ngô, Celina Huynh, Thao Vu, and Mike Phạm, Nhac Gãy (in Vietnamese, gãy means broken, a reference to the group’s DIY approach) is at the forefront of Vietnam’s new wave of homegrown electronic club music. Based in Ho Chi Minh City—also commonly referred to as Saigon—the group is known for its diverse sets and word-of-mouth raves. In early 2021, it released its first compilation album, featuring both local and diasporic artists who put a spin on traditional Vietnamese instruments and fuse contemporary elements with dance genres.

This interview is part of The World Made Local, a global collaboration between the seven international editions of Condé Nast Traveler in which 100 people in 100 countries tell us why their home turf should be your next destination.

Describe your connection to the city and how you fit into its current narrative

Phạm: Saigon is the opposite of where I came from, a small quiet town called Vũng Tàu, which is about two hours away. This city is where I've built my adult life, from friends and ideas to identity and understanding of cultures. There seems to be a powerful energy here that constantly drives change and challenges the boundaries of old and new.

Huynh: I’m a Viet Kieu, born and raised in Southern California, and have lived in Saigon for two years. Because of my American mentality, my connection to the city is one of curiosity and exploration. My Vietnamese is slightly broken. I always get double takes from locals when I’m walking on the street. I feel like I don’t fit in at all, so maybe my place in the current narrative is to stand out.

What’s special about Ho Chi Minh City?

Phạm: There are so many alleys and neighborhoods where you can find unique vibes—like the Pham Viet Chanh area for small cozy bars. My current favorites are a cocktail space called Legato, and Japanese wine bar Lozzi—Japan Town in District 1 is where we Saigonese go for izakaya. For something more local, Phan Xich Long Street in Phu Nhuan District is the place to experience diverse regional food, student cafés, and bubble-tea spots.

What excites you about where you live right now?

Trần: I like how people across all fields play on various spectrums: local/global, heritage/contemporary, East/West… Whether it’s a new restaurant, a breakout pop artist, a piece of clothing—there are currently so many interesting things coming out from all scenes.

Which are your all-time favorite spots?

Phạm: We usually frequent the Pham Viet Chanh area because it's very chill. But if I'm craving cơm tấm [broken rice with barbecue pork chops—the city’s signature dish], you’ll find me at Calmette Bridge in District 4.

Ngô: On Le Thanh Ton street, Azumaya Hotel for Japanese food and drinks, or Powers Bar, which is on the rooftop of a small apartment building. For Vietnamese dishes I go to Quán Bụi restaurant, and the best pizza place ever is Pizza 4P's.

Trần: The bún thịt nướng [grilled pork and rice noodles] place on 1 Đường Nguyễn Trung Trực, a block away from Bến Thành Market. They grill pork skewers over a barbecue in the street and also serve crispy spring rolls and fresh cold noodles. I go there once a week.

If a friend was visiting for 24 hours, where would you tell them to go?

Ngô: First, get a massage at My Spa, Miu Miu Spa, or Golden Lotus. For beef noodles, head to Bún Bò Đông Ba Gia Hội; for pho, try Pho Le. Anywhere along Hoang Sa and Truong Sa is good for street food, but I like Cau Ba Quan on Hoang Sa. There are a million coffee shops in the city: my favorites are The Workshop, Okkio Caffe, and Hoang Thi Café. And check out Bánh Mì Bảy Hổ and Bánh Mì Huỳnh Hoa for Vietnamese baguettes.

Trần: And rent a motorbike to enjoy it all!

What do you miss most about the country when you’re away?

Trần: Vietnam’s fearlessness, randomness, playfulness and humanity. The energy of a city that is non-stop 24/7. I feel alive whenever I come back.

Ngô: I miss the food and the coffee! There's no place like it—you never get tired of eating here because of the variety.

Any music and nightlife names to know?

Huynh: The scene in Saigon is really eclectic. If you want a truly local clubbing experience, I recommend checking out a vinahouse club such as New DC Club in District 1.

Trần: The Rắn Cạp Đuôi collective, which released a beautiful experimental electronic album with a high level of production in 2021. At Error:102 bar, young talents play various genres from hip-hop to techno.

Follow Nhac Gãy on Instagram @nhac_gay