My all nighter at Claridge's – this is what it takes to create London's most talked about tree

There are 33 sleeps until Christmas Day, and festive fever has been catching on in the capital for a few weeks. London’s streets are illuminated by hundreds of thousands of twinkling LED bulbs in the shape of angels and crown jewels, historic department stores have transformed their window displays into fantastical fairgrounds, and restaurants are already serving slithers of turkey. However, in the world of luxurious London hotels, one event marks the start of the festivities – the unveiling of Claridge’s Christmas tree.

Fizz-fuelled parties are kicking off across London, but I’ve got the hottest ticket in town – behind-the-scenes access. Louis Vuitton is the latest in a long line of fashion houses to take over the chequered floors of Claridge’s lobby, and I’m checking in for the night to watch the hotel turn into a winter wonderland at the hands of a stellar creative team.

As I push through the revolving doors, pass a series of sweet-scented twinkling trees and arrive in the heart of the lobby, the anticipatory buzz is palpable. To my left, jetlagged guests have their luggage discreetly whisked away by attentive porters. Ahead of me, A-list stars of stage and screen raise a toast to The Foyer’s recent transformation. However, all eyes, tilted heads and cameraphones in the room are interested in what’s to my right – a mysterious five-metre structure enveloped in a black shroud. Once guests retire to their rooms in just a few hours, it’ll be all hands on deck for the finishing touches.

As a man on a mission, there’s little time to spend lounging around my corner terrace suite. In here, though, it feels like Christmas Eve. A hamper awaits under a glittering Christmas tree, fairy lights beaming through ornate glass baubles. I sink into the gigantic bed for a minute, question whether a long bath in the bowl-like tub is too optimistic (it was), and peek over the balcony railings at the cars and partygoers on Brook Street far below. A bottle of Champagne on ice tempts me, but it’ll have to chill a while longer.

The recently-opened Claridge’s Restaurant is packed as we head to supper after chilled flutes of Laurent Perrier Champagne in the bar. A homely cacophony of clattering cutlery and animated conversation rings out, sommeliers and waiters skillfully sashaying around each other and gently tapping shoulders when they’re at risk of obstructing diners’ paths. Cheesy truffle crumpets whet our appetites before a hearty bowl of pumpkin agnolotti. Festive menus aren’t available until December, although the roasted Norfolk chicken accompanied by a brioche and lemon stuffing felt like a fittingly festive enough choice. As a special treat for me, Claridge’s one-time festive all-night lobby lingerer, a Christmas pudding makes it to our table. As it’s lit, the phantasmagorical flames engross us and other diners around us – a tradition that transports us to family Christmases of years gone by.

Thanksgiving is a big deal at the hotel, so the American holiday has time to shine before the Christmas menus arrive. Soon, guests will be tucking into dishes such as seared foie gras and gingerbread, Wessex County beef wellington, and – of course – turkey with all the trimmings.

As we enter the lobby, the action has begun. A few guests are still up, heading in from the surrounding Michelin-starred restaurants and cosy speakeasies. “No pictures, please”, an eagle-eyed porter commands from the corner of the room as one guest tentatively takes a phone out of her clutch bag. A lorry has pulled up outside the Davies’ Street entrance – wreaths, trunks, and snowy ornaments are carried in by a collaborative crack team as public relations executives, hotel managers, and staff from Louis Vuitton oversee the arrangements. There’s a long way to go, so we retreat for a Champagne-induced slumber.

My alarm wakes me abruptly at 4am, and we’re back in the lobby – this time clutching sugary, caffeinated drinks. The operation is so gargantuan that the two towering Malles Vestiaire (Wardrobe Trunks) were installed the night before. Now, it’s all about the centrepiece – a ‘tree’ formed of 15 vertically-placed chrome repurposed trunks. The varying heights create the silhouette of a traditional Christmas tree and salute the building’s Art Deco architecture. It’s a 360-degree display, too; each trunk is adorned with a Louis Vuitton luggage tag and Claridge’s travel stickers of yesteryear. This is just one way Claridge’s Christmas tree honours the fashion house’s history – Gaston-Louis Vuitton’s extensive travels naturally made him amass a considerable collection of hotel stickers.

I catch some of the Louis Vuitton team between bouts of lobby loitering. We talk about the partnership’s inception in the summer, and how the lead visionaries devised a meticulous plan in their London studio once it was decided that a link to travel was a no-brainer. Trunks were called in from window displays across Europe, upcycled alongside freshly-crafted finishing touches. 21 Louis Vuitton Vivienne mascots sit on the silver trunks – playful pinks, varied greens and eye-catching oranges, among other shades. Also incorporated into the concept is a model of Asnières, the iconic Louis Vuitton family home and atelier, a short journey from Paris that’s home to the fashion house’s original wardrobe trunk.

A designer places a final Vivienne on the snowy base of Claridge’s 2023 Christmas tree as the hotel’s ballroom-dancer-in-residence, Marius Caluser, gets into character for a final rehearsal of the dance he’s due to perform to a selection of handpicked guests just as the sun rises over the city.

Stray specks of artificial snow are swept up, ladders are scurried away, and finally the imposing, mirrored complex of trunks and trinkets stands proud in all its glory. The mirrored design causes a few bounce-back camera flashes, but there’s one shimmery benefit to be had. As the music plays and Marius saunters down the stairs, I catch the eye of Marianne Claridge, co-founder of the original hotel, gazing down at the tree from her portrait. Her expression, albeit frozen in time, is approving, as she watches over the beginning of another festive extravaganza at the extraordinary hotel she established long, long ago.