The Dalmatian coast is fast becoming the French Rivera of the east, and Hvar is unquestionably its St Tropez. Although it has been a popular with yacht-goers of the Mediterranean for years, its relative inaccessibility has meant that it managed to hold on to its special tranquil beauty. And it's easy to see the appeal: the Adriatic air smells of lavender as the rocky hills surrounding Hvar town itself are blanketed in purple. At the bottom of the slopes, the harbour town curves around the south-facing bay, with those yachts bobbing on the crystal clear water.
Where to stay in Hvar
ADRIANA HVAR MARINA HOTEL & SPA
Fabrika bb, Hvar (00 385 21 750200; www.suncanihvar.com/adriana). The Suncani hotel group has a near-monopoly on Hvar, with 10 properties ranging from the simple to stylish. The Adriana Hvar Marina, on the harbour, has luxurious suites and a gorgeous rooftop pool and bar. ££££
RIVA HVAR YACHT HARBOUR HOTEL
Riva bb, Hvar (00 385 21 750100; www.suncanihvar.com/riva). Also on the waterfront, the 54-bedroom Riva Hvar Yacht Harbour Hotel is more boutiquey in feel than the Adriana, with a dash of 1950s movie-star glamour. £££
Where to eat out in Hvar
RESTAURANT PALACE DE PALADINIS
Petar Hektorovic 4, Hvar (00 385 21 742104; www.tihi-hvar.com/paladinis). Dine on seafood and pasta in the creeper-clad 15th-century courtyard of Restaurant Palace de Paladinis, sharing wooden tables with well-heeled yacht owners.
RESTAURANT GARIFUL
Obala bb, Hvar (00 385 21 742 999). Heading east along the harbour front, on the corner past the low couches of Hvar's trendiest bar Carpe Diem, you'll find Restaurant Gariful - one of the most picturesque places to enjoy the day's fresh fish catch. As you look out at sea to the spectacular sunset, the restaurant's lobsters crawl in an aquarium cut into the harbour wall and fish is cooked on the open grill carved out next to it.
RESTAURANT TINEL
Krizna Luka, Hvar (00 385 9843 3761). Sample Croatian home cooking at Restaurant Tinel, where the messy but delicious scampi buzara is a highlight.
The best nightlife in Hvar
BARS
CARPE DIEM BEACH BAR
Stipanska (00 385 99 741 1784; www.carpe-diem-hvar.com). Hop on a water taxi to the Carpe Diem beach bar on the neighbouring island of Stipanska. You could happily spend the whole day here, sipping on Mojitos by the pool, diving in the crystal clear waters or getting a seaside massage.
SPLASH BEACH BAR
Majerovica bb, Hvar (00 385 21 750300; www.suncanihvar.com/amphora). Check out the après-beach parties at the Splash bar, a few metres from the Bonjs les Bains sun terrace at the Amfora Hvar Grand Beach Resort.
CLUBS
CARPE DIEM CLUB
Riva bb, Hvar (00 385 21 742369; www.carpe-diem-hvar.com). Head to the Carpe Diem club, which spawned the beach bar above. It's pricey, but everybody who's anybody ends up here at some point.
Things to do in Hvar
SAILING
Explore the coastline of Hvar and the nearby islands on a traditional gullet, sailing boat or motor yacht from Sail Dalmatia (020 7736 65000; www.saildalmatia.com); or sail to the nearby Korcula island, an hour away, for a night or two at the five-star Lesic Dimitri Palace (00 385 20 715560; www.lesic-dimitri.com).
How to get to Hvar
AIRLINES FROM THE UK
There are no flights directly to Hvar from the UK; fly to Split or Dubrovnik, then catch the ferry to the island.
Croatia Airlines www.croatiaairlines.com) and EasyJet www.easyjet.com) fly to Split; EasyJet and British Airways (www.ba.com) fly to Dubrovnik.
There's a passenger-only boat from Stari Grad in Split to Hvar every afternoon - the boat continues on to Korcula. There is also one-hour car ferries departing Split three times a day (five times daily in July and August).