Outside its lively capital, the Indian Ocean island of Madagascar feels gloriously uncrowded, but with its otherworldly wildlife, spectacular beaches and fascinating culture, it is packed full of wonders. See the Foreign Office's travel advice before going: the FCO currently advises against travel to the centre of Antananarivo unless absolutely necessary. They also advise that if you visit the island, you constantly monitor local media either within a group or independently, since political unrest can develop quickly. Relations between the UK and the island are good, however, and British citizens are welcomed by islanders. (Updated February 2011).
Where to stay in Madagascar
ANJAJAVY L'HOTEL Near Mahajanga, north-western Madagascar (00 33 1 44 69 15 00; www.anjajavy.com). Anjajavy L'Hotel, a member of Relais & Châteaux, has 25 air-conditioned guest villas, simply furnished with a double bed on the ground floor and two singles on a mezzanine level. The villas in front are more private and have uninterrupted sea views. All have large verandahs and big bathrooms. The main lodge houses a bar, a dining room and an open-plan games room and lounge. There are well-organised land- and water-based activities. There's a three-night minimum stay. £££ LE PAVILLON DE L'EMYRNE Antananarivo, Madagascar (00 261 20 222 5945; www.pavillondelemyrne.com). Le Pavillon de l'Emyrne is a sophisticated, 13-room boutique hotel in the capital with pretty grounds and a colonial ambience. ££ MANDRARE RIVER CAMP Near Fort Dauphin, south-eastern Madagascar (00 261 20 220 2226; www.madaclassic.com). Mandrare River Camp has six comfortable tents with four-poster beds and en-suite bathrooms with bucket showers and eco-friendly chemical loos. Generally excellent meals, accompanied by South African and French wines, are served with great care and attention to detail in the dining tent. There is an emphasis on cultural activities, including visits to local villages and markets. A four-night stay is recommended. ££££ TARAJAVA GUESTHOUSE Upper Town, Antananarivo, Madagascar (book through Rainbow Tours, see Tour Operators). An eclectic B&B furnished with antiques and Venetian-glass chandeliers. There are four bedrooms, two of which have terraces with astonishing views across the city. ££
When to go to Madagascar
The island has a typically tropical, warm, damp climate. Go in spring to avoid the heaviest rains, which fall between November and March. The best moth to go is May.
Tour operator details for Madagascar
RAINBOW TOURS
Rainbow Tours (020 7226 1004; www.rainbowtours.co.uk) is the most experienced UK-based operator to the country. A 10-day Madagascan holiday through Rainbow Tours costs from £3,500 per person sharing (prices correct in May 2009), including flights and accommodation. Rainbow Tours works with the excellent Malagasy company Zà Tours (www.zatours-madagascar.com).
For 2009, a number of UK tour operators added Madagascar to their books for the first time, including Abercrombie & Kent (0845 618 2202; www.abercrombiekent.co.uk), Audley Travel (01993 838000; www.audleytravel.com), Bales Worldwide (0845 057 1819; www.balesworldwide.com) and Tim Best Travel (020 7591 0300; www.timbesttravel.com).
The best way to get around Madagascar
It is advisable to book your trip to Madagascar with a tour operator for expert advice. Nosy Be in the north has the most established tourist industry, including Italian and French all-inclusive resorts. Outside Nosy Be, the tourism infrastructure and accommodation is still limited and fairly basic; travelling by road can be tricky although guides and drivers are easily arranged.
There is a problem with beggars and consistent pedlars in the capital - familiar enough to those who have visited major Indian and African cities, but disconcerting nonetheless.
English is not widely spoken outside international hotels, so knowledge of French is useful.