The best shopping in Hong Kong
Asia's often turbulent big-bucks metropolis displays its complex identity with artist spaces and sustainability champions propelling the narrative into the future.
ORGANIC SKINCARE
When Edmund Ip and Gia Fox couldn’t find additive-free soap in the city, they took matters into their own hands and launched Bathe to Basics, a green beauty line made in Hong Kong. Their shop on the third floor of the PMQ design complex is stocked with charcoal-mint bars, pomelo-leaf body- wash and beautiful reed aroma diffusers with essential oils, plus a selection of bathroom products including gauze shinto towels. While you’re here, pop into Haustage on the first floor to browse upcycled home goods and accessories from Japan and Scandinavia. The other big name on the clean cosmetics scene is Beautysaur. Its high- concept flagship is set in futuristic shopping centre K11 Musea on Victoria Dockside and stocks fermentation-focused brand Biophile’s rejuvenating Bio-shroom serum and lemongrass cleanser.
ECO-CONSCIOUS CLOTHING
Set in a sleekly renovated former textile store in Sham Shui Po, Phvlo Hatch serves as a coffee shop, community space and atelier for emerging creatives with ethical credentials. The eponymous athleisure label (pronounced ‘flow’), founded by Hong Kong-based Johanna Ho, cuts down on waste with transseasonal clothes made from sustainable fabrics, and online orders are collected in person to reduce packaging.
Ward Roberts / GallerystockHANDCRAFTED CROCKERY
Yuet Tung China Works, hidden within an industrial warehouse in Kowloon Bay, is a treasure trove of colourful ceramics. Established in 1928, the factory – one of the last porcelain manufacturers still operating in Hong Kong – has received bespoke orders from the Peninsula hotel and royal residences around the world. Inside its crammed workshop shelves are full to the rafters with blue-and-white rice bowls, painted vases and tea sets in a kaleidoscope of colours. Alternatively, let the curators at Wai Chi Street Playground do the digging for you: this industrial life- style store in nearby Mong Kok has one of the best ranges of retro plates, bamboo steamers and nostalgic kitchen tools in the city.
QUIRKY KEEPSAKES
Short for Goods of Desire, GOD is a cult store that’s as popular with locals as it is with visitors in search of one-of-a-kind gifts. Launched by architects Douglas Young and Benjamin Lau, it does tongue-in-cheek takes on Hong Kong hallmarks such as colourful letterboxes and fortune cats. Bestsellers at the two-storey flagship on Hollywood Road – there are seven outlets around town – include mahjong placemats, soy candles shaped like traditional teacups and tote bags decorated with motifs inspired by the ubiquitous neon lights.
Francesco Lastrucci / GallerystockTRADITIONAL SHIRTS
There are slippers, tank tops and lingerie displayed in the windows of this old-timey undergarment shop in Sheung Wan, but most people come to Lee Kung Man Knitting Factory for its white Henley shirts. Opened in 1923, this place has provided Hong Kongers including Bruce Lee with its stylish designs for decades. Renowned for their silk-like texture and durability, the clothes are still woven on vintage machines from the 1950s and even the retro cardboard packaging, bearing the signature golden-deer logo, hasn’t changed one bit. 188 Nam Cheong Street
CULTURE AND FOODIE SPOTS
Taking over a colonial-era police station, Tai Kwun is a breezy antidote to the narrow high-rise-lined streets of the Central district. Galleries and artist studios are housed in the two large surrounding court- yards, 16 meticulously restored heritage structures and a pair of new-builds. Among the highlights are Loveramics, known for its barista-grade coffee cups, LockCha Tea House for superb Chinese brews, and Hexadoor for jewellery and playful accessories. On the food front, there’s excellent Thai restaurant Aaharn by chef David Thompson, The Chinese Library for cross-cultural dim sum such as laksa-filled xiao long bao and Behind Bars, a cocktail bar occupying the former cell blocks. In the edgier Tai Hang district, artist hangout and concept store The Shophouse opened last year. The building includes a library and garden, and has ceramic installations and curated archives across four levels, with pieces by Bulgarian designer Kiko Kostadinov and fashion legend Martin Margiela.
GLOBAL GOODS
Frenchman Arnault Castel moved to Hong Kong in 1996 to work in finance, but found his calling in creative retail. Ten years later, he opened Kapok to bring smart fashion and homeware labels from around the world to the city. They include HAY interiors from Denmark, Sessùn knits from France and kitchenware from Barcelona, plus Future Classics, his own minimalist line of womenswear. Over time, the business has extended to multiple stores, but the emporium on Sun Street – where one half is done up in plywood, the other in chromatised steel – has the widest selection.
AFFORDABLE ART
Part art gallery, part bookshop, Odd One Out functions as a platform for local and international illustrators and graphic designers to showcase and sell their work. Rotating exhibitions focus on a variety of styles, from bold prints by Hong Kong-born illustrator Charlene Man to comic book-like cyanotypes by Pearl Law. But the evergreen archive has plenty of postcard-sized prints too, following the belief that good art should be accessible to everyone. There’s also a lovely café, making this an essential espresso pit-stop.
WHERE TO STAY
MANDARIN ORIENTAL, HONG KONG
This hotel in the heart of Central, overlooking Victoria Harbour, has been a fixture on the skyline since 1963. The vibe is old-school charm with wood-panelled walls and red-leather armchairs, marble bathrooms and silk dressing gowns. There’s an award-winning spa with traditional Chinese remedies and the restaurants include Michelin-starred Man Wah, which serves Cantonese classics such as dim sum and steamed crab with melon and ginger. For anything else, just ask Danny Lai, who’s been the concierge here for nearly five decades. Elegant Resorts offers four nights from £1,585 per person, including British Airways flights and transfers. +44 1244 897514
LOCAL KNOW-HOW
GLORIA CHUNG, FOOD EXPERT AND WRITER
‘Traditional wonton noodle shops are slowly disappearing, so I really cherish them. Yuen Hing Lung Noodles has been around since the 1950s and its wontons are just the way they should be: petite, tight and full of prawn flavour.’
‘For drinks, I love The Diplomat, a speakeasy at the end of an alley in Central. Mixologist John Nugent changed my mind about Irish coffee – his version is so creamy and light! There are also mini cocktails – great for a sip after work.’
‘I never thought the old-fashioned Eaton Hotel could transform into such an edgy design destination. It supports the LGBTQ+ community and hosts the Women’s Festival. Make sure to try its amazing Yat Tung Heen restaurant.’
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