The best Sunday roasts in London
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Whether enjoyed in one of the capital's pub gardens during the summer or savoured by the fire during the chillier months, London certainly has a fabulous selection of Sunday roasts to tuck into. Choose your meat (or vegetarian alternative) and wait in anticipation as piled plates come your way topped with doughy Yorkshire puddings. This is the only fool-proof way to cure the Sunday scaries.
The Wolseley City
Best Sunday roast in London for: a traditional British Sunday
Dish to order: Sirloin of Herefordshire beefThere’s something wonderful about dining at The Wolseley. The classic dishes are a welcome break from the small plates currently dominating the dining scene. So, when they opened in The City, we knew we had to book a table.
Their newest foray into East London comes in the shape of what was the Monument branch of the House of Fraser. The interiors ooze art deco grandeur with Egypt-centric design, invoking nostalgia for times past. We arrive on Mother’s Day, so the crowd differs from what I can only assume is typically bankers and consultants, but we welcome the change of clientele. We snoop at the main menu, an ode to French and Viennese classics (think schnitzel meets escargot), but alas, we are here for the best of British meals – a Sunday roast.
We order a zingy Bergamot Royale to get things started and then focus our attention on the main event. Diners have three options: beef, chicken and roasted celeriac. We decided to order the two classics, and we were not disappointed. The meat is peppery and tender, the chicken is juicy and full of flavour, and the roast potatoes are as crispy as they come. You can expect bread pudding to be served alongside, making for an incredibly traditional Sunday afternoon. We topped it off with a tart and a marmalade bread and butter pudding. We leave with full tummies and with the knowledge that I have officially and happily assimilated into British culture as a US expat. Amber Port
Address: 68 King William St, London EC4N 7HR
Website: thewolseleycity.comClaridge's Restaurant
Best Sunday roast for: a special occasion
Dish to order: the Herefordshire beefClaridge’s might not be the first place that springs to mind when you think of a Sunday lunch. The classically British dining room is the ultimate spot for a special occasion – think stained glass skylights, gilded mirrors, leather banquettes and marble countertops. A far cry from your local boozer, but with the guarantee of the most decadent Sunday roast you’ll have tried. Start with a non-negotiable Bloody Mary to kick-start the meal, before delving into the three-course affair. Starters include a confit duck terrine with sweet fig jam to scoop up with the fluffiest brioche you could imagine, and a sea bass and crab fish cake, perfectly crispy on the outside and indulgently creamy inside, topped with a dollop tartare sauce and wakame seaweed for an umami hit. But it’s the main event that steals the show – a Norfolk black leg chicken with a truffle stuffing to split between two; a roasted rib of beef with horseradish purée and a Yorkshire pudding the size of your head; grilled halibut with smoked caviar or a celeriac and mushroom pithivier. Each dish is served with heaped platters of sides, from crispy roast potatoes and glazed carrots to creamed cabbage with crispy bacon and a cheesy cauliflower gratin – all best paired with a bottle of wine from Claridge’s cellar (ask your sommelier for a tour to help you choose).
Address: Claridge's, Brook St, London W1K 4HR
Website: claridges.co.ukDovetale, 1 Hotel Mayfair
Best Sunday roast for: oysters and ice cream
Dish to order: Pigs in blanketsIt’s rare for an upscale hotel to replicate the relaxed homeliness of your local pub. But that’s how taking a booth at Dovetale on a Sunday feels. With the fire on, chefs busily at work, and the buzz of family life around you, it’s as lovely as can be. Lunch is a local feast; no less than you’d expect from Restaurant Story’s Tom Sellers, who has taken his British-with-a-twist ethos to the flagship restaurant within 1 Hotel Mayfair. Cornish oysters from the raw bar and bubbles from Gusbourne estate in Kent arrive before we switch to a rich, smokey red on sommelier Tom’s recommendation. The burrata is brought in daily – so fresh it’s never been refrigerated – served with pinch pots of salt and pepper and a drizzle of olive oil. Everything is elevated here. It’s not just swede mash, but swede mash with capers. Cauliflower cheese has a swirl of truffle. Even the bread rolls are noteworthy; their ends teased out into a twizzle like an eccentric moustache. There are chicken, beef or mushroom roasts, but we’d recommend the beef – pink right to the edge, topped off with a sliver of char and a generous spoonful of horseradish cream. The vintage Knickerbocker Glory cart is a hit for kids, too. We saw several wide-eyed stares as little ones watched their mix-and-match dessert dreams being fulfilled before their eyes. Charley Ward
Address: 1 Hotel Mayfair, 3 Berkeley Street, London, W1J 8DL
Website: 1hotels.com/mayfair/taste/dovetaleThe Midland Grand Dining Room, King's Cross
Best Sunday roast in London for: an opulent affair
Dish to order: sirloin of tender grass-fed beef (and a bloody mary)Taking inspiration from the vibrant and buzzy bistros of Paris, The Midland Grand’s new ‘Grand Sunday Lunch’ is a delightful deviance from the over-saturated market of traditional Sunday roasts more commonly found across London. Chef Patrick Powell instead offers up a masterfully curated menu of hearty and soul-warming Sunday specials – updated weekly and designed for sharing – including such joys as confit lamb shoulder or whole roast John Dory.
The setting is, as the name suggests, oozing with grandeur. Gilt touches and art-deco flair reign throughout the unfathomably high-ceilinged dining room; however, despite the opulent aesthetics the vibe is refreshingly relaxed. In true Sunday style, you can sink into the plush chairs whilst nursing a bloody mary – the perfect spot to talk out the week and drink in the surroundings.
On the menu during my visit, I whet the whistle with a beetroot, fig, ricotta and walnut small plate before leading on to the main event – sirloin of tender grass-fed beef with a punchy, peppery sauce and a shallot and parsley salad that cut through the richness, all served alongside the most decadent of dauphinois. If you still have room (I’d advise you to go with a healthy appetite) make sure to sample the molten lava cake which is a perfectly pillowy end to an altogether indulgent affair. Finally, be prepared to roll yourself home – at least King’s Cross station is just a few short steps away. Lucy Bruton
Address: The Midland Grand Dining Room, St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, Euston Road, London NW1 2AR
Website: midlandgranddiningroom.com
- David Cotsworth
The Lanesborough Grill
Best Sunday roast in London for: an indulgent lunch with wine pairings
Dish to order: Roast sirloin of Hereford beef, horseradish and apple cream, Yorkshire pudding, roast potatoesOn a quiet Sunday on the doorstep of Hyde Park, The Lanesborough stands as a stoic landmark on the edge of London’s most exclusive shopping district. The friendly and dedicated Les Clefs d’Or concierge are on hand to give you the timeless experience this hotel group is notorious for. Guided through the grand mansion halls, renovated by interior designer Alberto Pinto, lunch is served in the Lanesborough Grill’s Regency dining room, a reimagined flagship restaurant run by Executive Chef Shay Cooper and decorated with abstract art by British-based artists. Seated in one of the deep-set, pale blue armchairs, bathed in natural light from the domed glass ceiling, the calming atmosphere of the room embraces you, be it the tranquil soundtrack, the private conversations of diners celebrating anniversaries, birthdays or even the sight of the regulars visiting their local haunts – we people watched a man with a baby in tow (regular enough to trust the staff to watch his son while he nips to the loo).
A modern take on British cuisine, the three-course menu (at £75 per person) is developed using only the best seasonal produce from the UK. It offers the option of a wine pairing (for an extra £55 supplement per person). The master sommeliers will prepare the perfect flavour combinations for your three courses. In this case, a deep red wine accompanies our main, roast sirloin beef, carved tableside, served from vintage Gueridon trolleys alongside small plates of al dente seasonal vegetables and roast potatoes and laid on the table for family-style dining. The caramelised brioche pudding, with burnt orange puree, is next paired with a glass of 2017 Domaine De Souch, Jurançon Moelleux “Marie Kattalin” – a pudding in its own right with an intense depth of fruity flavours I’ve never experienced in a wine. Petit fours are served as we finish the final vestiges of our delectable wine pairings, the perfect end to a Sunday afternoon. Megan Wilkes
Address: The Lanesborough Grill, Hyde Park Corner, London SW1X 7TA
Website: oetkercollection.com Booking Office 1869, King's Cross
Best Sunday roast in London for: decadent dining
Dish to order: roast roll rib-eyeWhether you have time before jumping on the Eurostar, or you're just in London for a leisurely Sunday afternoon mooching around Kings Cross and Coal Drops Yard, a visit to Booking Office 1869 in St. Pancras International Station for an indulgent Sunday roast must be factored in. Lunch is served in the most beautiful dining rooms designed by architect French Hugo Toro, with red brick arches framing stained glass windows, towering skinny palm trees, huge decadent chandeliers and bright velvet patterned dining chairs.
The three-course menu starts with Cornish mackerel, beetroot hummus and the wafer-thin bresaola topped with pickled veg. Mains included the soft corn-fed chicken with sourdough bread sauce, the miso caramel glazed butternut squash and (our favourite) a delicious roast roll rib-eye with a side of smooth horseradish cream. Following suit, waiters deliver a black cast iron cauldron of warm crispy roasties, buttery cabbage, roasted carrots, and huge Yorkshires to be shared. Plop the veggies onto your plate, cover it in gravy and dig in. Save room for the fluffy trio of profiteroles with a jug of molten hot chocolate sauce for pudding. Sophie Knight
Address: Booking Office 1869, Euston Road, London NW1 2AR
Website: booking-office.co.uk- Caitlin Isola Caprio
Boundary, Shoreditch
Best Sunday roast in London for: upbeat Sunday vibes
Dish to order: roast pork bellyThere are plenty of reasons to visit Boundary Hotel. From its trendy rooftop bar to its buzzy brasserie, you’re guaranteed the friendliest service in the coolest buildings, slap bang in the middle of Shoreditch. Come Sunday, the ground-floor brasserie serves up the tastiest of Sunday roasts in its light-flooded, modern dining room. Arrive super hungry as this roast is no easy feat – it’s so big the Yorkshire pudding hangs off the plate.
Start with a glass of Champagne or a boozy bloody Mary to kick off lunch in a Shoreditch fashion. Starters include a sweet but savoury goat’s cheese and red onion tart and the tasty steak tartare served with crunchy toasted sourdough. As for the roast, you’re spoilt for choice. There’s 35-day aged roast beef, free-range roast chicken, a veggie option which changes weekly and our favourite, the roast pork belly with crunchy crackling and plenty of apple sauce. If making decisions is too much for you, opt for the mixed roast with all three meats. Plates are piled high with all the trimmings – duck fat potatoes, honey-glazed carrots, fresh seasonal greens, the largest Yorkshire puddings, a side of cauliflower cheese and that all-important jug of gravy. Finish the afternoon with warm sticky toffee pudding. Sophie Knight
Address: 2-4 Boundary Street, London E2 7DD
Website: boundary.london - Jack Mather
The Twenty Two, Mayfair
Best Sunday roast in London for: a long stylish lunch
Dish to order: the roast sirloin of Aberdeen Angus beefMayfair might be quiet on a Sunday, but inside the duck egg blue walls of The Twenty Two’s hotel restaurant, it’s surprisingly buzzy. Chanel bags are strung over mustard velvet chairs, while bright young things (and the occasional A-lister) nurse hangovers with Bloody Marys from the dedicated menu. I went for the Mary Celeste, served with Tanqueray 10 gin, topped with an oyster, plus a suggested side glass of tomato liqueur (surprisingly smooth), and I didn't regret a thing. The restaurant’s full seafood-heavy menu is available and worth exploring, even if it’s just a starter – the sea bass crudo with citrus dressing is heavenly. For the traditional Sunday stuff, former Arbutus chef Alan Christie delivers a confidently simple roast selection – chicken, lamb or beef. All the trimmings come as standard and are brought to the table in a flurry of side plates. Voluminous Yorkshires are placed down in miniature saucepans, their flavourful taste I’m told is down to the particular eggs used. The potatoes are a masterful hybrid of fluffy roast and crunchy chip, while the carrots are a surprising star, cooked to rare perfection. The restaurant is so beautiful it’s worth lingering a little longer after the last mouthful of cauliflower cheese. Nestle in, order a coffee (or Mexican coffee martini if you’re in the mood), split a pudding (the slice of bread and butter pudding is stodge-free) and savour an incredibly chic lazy Sunday. Lauren Burvill
Address: The Twenty Two, 22 Grosvenor Square, London W1K 6LF
Website: the22.london
The Laundry, Brixton
Best Sunday roast in London for: pure indulgence
Dish to order: Truffle cauliflower cheese, sage and truffle gratinThe Laundry’s red-brick Edwardian building wouldn’t be amiss in a Charles Dickens novel, still boasting its original name and vocation ‘Sanitary Steam Laundry’ in large letters across the front. Inside, the feel is much more contemporary – chic but a little rustic, offering a fresh spin on its heritage. It’s all very relaxed here, making it an ideal spot for brunches, lunches, Sunday roasts and supper. Elements of the menu are nostalgic – a prawn cocktail starter, for example, transported us back to a 1970’s dinner party. Mel Brown, the owner, also imports wine and the walls are stacked with thoughtfully selected independent brands. Classic cocktails come served with a twist; an espresso martini has added caramel, a mojito is brightened with pineapple. They may sound sickly, but the flavours are perfectly balanced.
The Sunday roast is piled high on plates, with vegan pie also on the menu. But the showstopper is a succulent pulled roast pork belly with apple sauce. The meat pairs beautifully with creamy roasted butternut squash, mint peas and fluffy-inside, crunchy-outside potatoes. Carrots, gravy and Yorkshire pudding also make a welcome appearance. This is a chef who respects tradition but amps things up in their way; unexpected flavours emerge in subtle but inventive ways. Eat yours with the decadent cauliflower cheese, sage and truffle gratin – reason enough alone to book a table. Lily Bonesso
Address: The Laundry, 374 Coldharbour Lane, London SW9 8PL
Website: thelaundrybrixton.com- John Carey
Hicce Hart, Islington
Best Sunday roast in London for: a wholesome Sunday
Dish to order: herb-stuffed rolled pork bellyPip Lacey and Gordy McIntyre, the duo behind the hugely popular Hicce in Coal Drops Yard, have just opened a follow-up in Islington: a cosy pub on the corner of Chapel Market serving modern small plates as well as a hearty roast lunch every Sunday. What’s more inviting than a cosy warm pub filled with locals and natter to spend a long Sunday afternoon - not to mention the irresistible-looking Yorkshires piled high in the kitchen? Start with a smoky Bloody Mary made with mezcal, house-roasted tomatoes and hot sauce, or a Mimosa made with apple and thyme. Snacks and starters should be a priority. They include mini saucisson and mussels with white wine and parsley, but our favourite was the crispy pulled pork bites. Onto the roast. Served with all the trimmings and a huge Yorkshire pudding, choose from a free-range half chicken (which takes up half of the plate), herb-stuffed rolled pork belly with crispy skin or wild mushroom and red wine tart. If you’ve room for pudding the custard pavlova with sweet calvados apples isn’t to be missed. Top tip: families can order a child-size roast for the little ones. Sophie Knight
Address: 58 Penton St, London N1 9PZ, United Kingdom
Website: hiccehart.co.uk CUT at 45 Park Lane, Mayfair
Best Sunday roast in London for: a special occasion
Dish to order: beef tartar with waygu drippingThis might just be the fanciest roast London has to offer – no surprise, considering CUT at 45 Park Lane is part of the smart hotel group The Dorchester Collection. The airy dining room is more modern ballroom than cosy space – super-high ceilings flooded with light that dances across marble flooring. A glass of sparkling wine, made locally in nearby Sussex and a basket of warm-baked soft bread and butter kicks things off. Next up: a light salad of butter lettuce, avocado and stilton drizzled in Champagne-herb vinaigrette or roasted potato and onion soup with Caviar, or heavier options such as beef steak tartar with wagyu beef dripping on sourdough toast. But really, of course, you're here for the roast. Choose between an ultra-pared-back menu: grass-fed English beef sirloin or a nut roast. There are roasted baby carrots and caramelised shallots, soft juicy sprouts, the cheesiest cauliflower with a hint of truffle, more truffle in the form of roast potatoes, wagyu dripping Yorkshire pudding, charred hispi cabbage and the can’t-go-without element: a jug of red-wine beef gravy. This elite roast is a real showstopper and one to book for a special occasion. Sophie Knight
Address: 45 Park Ln, London W1K 1PN
Website: dorchestercollection.com- John Carey
The Audley Public House, Mayfair
Best Sunday roast in London for: lunch in an art filled boozer
Dish to order: roast beefMayfair is a peculiar place on the weekend – without the flurry of suited midweek workers, it feels sleepy and calm. The same can be said for Sunday guests at The Audley. Usually, this spot is full to the brim with after-work punters sipping cold pints. On weekends, it's full of well-dressed locals and the odd tourist who has made a pit stop after shopping nearby. Seat yourself at a wooden table, order a Bloody Mary or a glass of red and admire the restored 1888 wooden interiors adorned with artwork – most impressive of all, the brightly painted kaleidoscope ceiling by Phyllida Barlow. Choosing a roast is simple as there’s only one option: traditional roast beef sourced from Artfarm’s farm in Somerset (Artfarm was in charge of the Victorian pub restoration, owned by gallerists and hoteliers Hauser and Wirth). The plate is piled with slices of perfectly-cooked beef, roast potatoes, carrots and a fluffy Yorkshire, and topped with juicy pulled beef plus a side of piping hot cauliflower cheese. For obvious reasons, the jug of beef gravy must be used liberally. Sophie Knight
Address: 41-43 Mount Street, Mayfair W1K 2RX
Website: theaudleypublichouse.com
- Paul Winch-Furness
Birch, Waltham Cross
Best Sunday roast in London for: an elegant tasting menu
Dish to order: pork bellyYou’re not in London anymore. Geographically, that is. Birch – a country-house hotel meets members’ club meets restaurant meets coworking space – is set just outside the city, reachable from Liverpool Street Station in about 30 minutes. Aesthetically, spiritually, this feels like an extension of the capital. Public spaces are snazzy – decorated in the style of an art-savvy, thoroughly wealthy couple’s country pile. Think wood-panelled, deep navy, or salmon pink rooms with high ceilings, sweeping staircases and grand archways, each one filled with sculptures and abstract canvases that seem out of place, yet somehow fit right in.
For those making the pilgrimage just for the day, The Zebra Riding Club is the main draw – Robin Gill’s restaurant (The Dairy, Sorella), set in the house’s old stables. It’s named after the legend that the former owner, Victorian socialite Lady Meux, apparently careened about Mayfair in a carriage drawn by zebras.
Sunday lunch is a fairly new addition to the roster here. The tasting menu (£38 per person) is based on what’s thriving on the hotel farm at that given moment. Picky bits to share might include porridge sourdough with house-made pickles, whipped goats curd with farm-grown beetroot or sweetcorn fritters that pop in your mouth. Move onto wood roast pork belly, confit cod in nutty brown butter or ricotta dumplings served with herbs plucked from the garden, perhaps, served with gnarly potatoes and grilled veggies. All the dishes are served on delightfully pretty crockery, in a delightfully pretty dining room – olive green walls, cosy booths, rattan chairs and a big open bar, from which you should order whatever cocktail is seasonal during your visit to extend your stay a little longer. Sarah James
Address: Birch, Lieutenant Ellis Way, Cheshunt, Goff's Oak, Waltham Cross EN7 5HW
Website: birchcommunity.com Perilla, Stoke Newington
Best Sunday roast in London for: unusual twists on hearty British classics
Dish to order: burnt-onion soupOn the corner of Newington Green, with floor-to-ceiling windows that look out onto the changing leaves in the park, Perilla is a plant-filled, stripped-back, earth-toned homage to seasonal cooking. There’s a warmness to its minimalism, with glass light fixtures, mid-century-modern chairs and chunky wooden tables that invite long lazy lunches. But it’s the food that really steals the show. Inventive twists on classic European dishes are served up by 20-something head chef and co-owner Ben Marks, who held coveted positions at Noma, Stockholm’s Operakällaren and Claridge’s before launching Perilla Dining as a pop-up with his business partner Matthew Emmerson. Their Sunday roast menu, which changes weekly and includes just one choice of a set meal, starts with warm sourdough bread threaded with seaweed chunks which comes wrapped in brown paper, followed by a show-stopping, deliciously sweet burnt-onion soup presented in a singed whole onion. The mains are for sharing: an impressive chicken and cep mushroom pie has a crisp shortcrust pastry top covered in shavings of Parmesan and is served with herbed mash and a large salad. There’s a warm treacle tart with ginger ice cream for pudding – if only you had room to finish it. Emma Russell
Address: Perilla, 1-3 Green Lanes, Newington Green, London N16 9BS
Website: perilladining.co.ukBlacklock, Soho
Best Sunday roast in London for: going the whole hog
Dish to order: pig’s head on toast, while you consider the optionsSoho basements used to be places to stumble down into or get propelled up out of, but those times have a-changed – just take a look up the road at the now-shuttered Windmill club, or the new Boulevard Theatre from Paul Raymond's granddaughter. Blacklock’s downstairs address certainly has a nudge-nudge past – but is now a wholesome chophouse that you could bring the whole family to, a den of not-much-iniquity with cocktails for a fiver and low-intervention wine on tap. On a Sunday, it’s a near-Hogarthian scene of well-mannered abandon, booked weeks in advance so there’s an infectious sense of intent, a sleeves-rolled-up air of expectation amid Sixties soul and the brick walls.
It’s unapologetically carnivorous (though it does have a veggie roast option): the Bloody Mary is made with beef jus; favourite starter is the peppery pig’s head terrine on toast, served with a dinky pot of gravy. All meat comes from family-run farms in Cornwall and prices kept lean thanks to a nose-to-tail policy of using the whole animal and sharing it with other like-minded kitchens as well as Blacklock’s two other locations (City and Shoreditch). First-timers may want to go for the generous trilogy of roasts – 55-day aged beef rump, lamb leg and pork loin – brought to the table surrounded by tanned duck-fat spuds and carrots, a chargrilled bloom of cabbage and splendid golden nuggets of crackling, with the sauce for each in little pots, a larger one for cauliflower cheese and a gravy boat followed by a second, ‘just in case’. The service is impressively speedy, never rushed, and the roasts fly off the plate; it takes stamina to even consider ordering the cheesecake or bread-and-butter pud. Most folk walk back up the stairs a lot more slowly and carefully than they came down. Rick Jordan
Address: Blacklock, 24 Great Windmill Street, Soho, London W1D 7LG
Website: theblacklock.comThe Camberwell Arms
Best Sunday roast in London for: standout small plates
Dish to order: smoked haddock frittersThis is the kind of place you want to spend all of Sunday afternoon and the evening too – especially if it’s grey and raining outside. Locals sit at the bar sipping negronis or white port and tonics while feasting on the changing small plates – because while there is spit-roasted chicken (ordered to share, with roast potatoes, a herby salad and aioli), slow-roasted spring lamb or Hereford beef, there’s also a changing menu of seasonal dishes that might include crispy curried smoked haddock fritters with a green chilli yoghurt or tagliatelle with girolles and broad beans served with ricotta and pecorino. Book a table (ideally at the back of the ground floor, though upstairs is nice and light in the summer months) and when you’re kicked off after your meal, carry on at the wood-panelled bar. Tabitha Joyce
Address: The Camberwell Arms, 65 Camberwell Church Street, Camberwell, London SE5 8TR
Website: thecamberwellarms.co.uk
Kerridge's Bar and Grill at Corinthia Hotel London
Best Sunday roast in London for: a special occasion
Dish to order: Home-farm lamb rump and belly, braised chicory and cabbage pureéThe streets feel pretty quiet around this Embankment spot on a Sunday, but as soon as you step inside the Corinthia Hotel London you’ll find a buzzing drinks space, a lobby filled with people taking tea, and packed tables at moody Kerridge's Bar & Grill. Chef Tom Kerridge is best known for his Michelin-starred pubs in Buckinghamshire’s Marlow, so it’s unsurprising that his Sunday roast is next-level. There’s pig-cheek pie with clotted-cream mash, crispy black pudding and devilled sauce; rib of beef, from his Marlow butcher’s shop The Butcher’s Tap, with Yorkshire pudding, horseradish cream and knock-out roasted potatoes; and Kerridge's famous deep-fried sea bream with triple-cooked chips, served with three blue-rimmed ramekins of mushy peas, home-made tartare and a posh curry sauce. If you’re going all out, the glazed omelette lobster thermidor to start is a rich, oozy triumph. Kerridge manages to pull off unpretentious fine food as well as anyone; this is a Sunday lunch worthy only of a big celebration. Tabitha Joyce
Read the full review of Kerridge's Bar and Grill at Corinthia Hotel London
Address: Kerridge’s Bar and Grill, 10 Northumberland Avenue, London WC2N 5AE
Website: kerridgesbarandgrill.co.ukThe Coach, Clerkenwell
Best Sunday roast in London for: a bistro take on the Sunday ritual
Dish to order: 48-day aged Hereford sirloin of beefThis cosy pub has been going since 1790, supplying pints to thirsty workers and locals, but more recently has become something of a foodie magnet as well, thanks to ex-Racine chef-restaurateur Henry Harris, who added his own, much-praised French-bistro touch. The seating space behind the bar has tasteful historical and botanical prints on the walls and backs onto a small garden, which is packed in summer and ensures there's plenty of natural light, even on an overcast day. This is comfort-food territory, and you can easily put together a belt-loosening, nap-inducing sequence of rich dishes (not a bad thing). There's also a handful of bold plates for those who don't shy away from offal – lamb sweetbreads with morels, black pudding or even calf's brain with capers. The menu changes regularly but always has several roasts: there might be sirloin of beef, côte de boeuf, pork belly, plus a number of dishes for two to three people such as braised lamb shoulder, all served with decadent duck-fat roasted potatoes. But it should be possible to have a virtuously light lunch, too – kohlrabi and fennel salad, followed by gurnard with monk's beard, for example. Not that we'd know. Our beef came with a wow-factor enormous Yorkshire pudding half-concealing sweet roasted carrots, and a cheesy leek gratin side that was almost a whole dish of its own.
All around us families and groups were chatting, some with four-legged friends in tow, which were clearly very welcome, and dedicating themselves to what the place is made for – whiling away the afternoon. Katharina Hahn
Read the full review of The Coach
Address: The Coach, 26-28 Ray Street, London EC1R 3DJ
Website: thecoachclerkenwell.co.ukThe Drapers Arms, Islington
Best Sunday roast in London for: A three-course affair
Dish to order: Braised rib cap to shareThere’s a cool crowd of regulars you’ll spot in here on a weekly basis, and it's always rammed right from 12pm through to closing time – so book ahead for a seat at one of the simple wooden tables, or nab a stool at the bright-emerald bar. The space is cosy with chandeliers and a black-and-white diamond-chequered floor and, best of all, a roaring log-burning stove (there's also a small courtyard out back for summer Sundays). The menu changes all the time (to keep those regulars happy), but there are always a couple of sharing options (braised rib cap with mashed potato, turnip tops and gravy; confit duck leg and pork-belly casserole; a slow-roasted shoulder of lamb), as well as imaginative vegetarian options such as roast squash and Jerusalem artichokes with a sage and chestnut dressing. Unusually for a Sunday, the starters are top notch too – think celeriac soup with hazelnuts and truffle honey or baked garlic camembert. Even the pudding menu changes on a regular basis but expect proper British homemade treats like sticky toffee pudding and chocolate beer cake. Tabitha Joyce
Address: The Drapers Arms, 44 Barnsbury Street, London N1 1ER
Website: thedrapersarms.comThe Albion, Islington
Best Sunday roast in London for: Sunday roasts by the log fire
Dish to order: Whole roasted lemon and thyme chicken with sage and onion stuffingA wisteria-clad Islington gem, The Albion is always heaving on Sundays (booking in advance is a must). Slow-roasted pork belly, rumps of lamb and 28-day-aged sirloin come with Yorkshire puddings and all the trimmings, but if you’re organised, pre-order one of the sharing plates: a whole roasted lemon and thyme chicken or a slow-cooked shoulder of rib of beef easily big enough for two people. And it’s the ambience that’s such a big part of the charm; a warren of different rooms with roaring log fires for lazy winter afternoons and, for warmer weather, a pretty walled garden with pergolas and creeping vines. Bring the papers and linger all day. Teddy Wolstenholme
Address: The Albion, 10 Thornhill Road, London N1 1HW
Website: the-albion.co.uk
The Cleveland Arms, Paddington
Best Sunday roast in London for: a long Sunday afternoon
Dish to order: lemon and thyme roast chickenHidden away behind towering white Georgian homes in a sleepy Paddington mews is The Cleveland Arms, a smart boozer that dishes out elevated pub food and a superb Sunday lunch. It was revamped in 2014 under the ownership of a film executive, and interiors feature dark blue walls and wood panelling, plus dim vintage lights from New Orleans which give the space a snoozy feel. The food, from pork loin and top-side beef to a whole braised lamb shoulder, is served on Willow-patterned china – we recommend the juicy lemon and thyme chicken that comes with silky braised greens, golden crunchy potatoes, a fluffy Yorkshire pudding and gravy to top the lot. Simple yet elegant, The Cleveland Arms is a delicious place to while away a long lazy afternoon. Katharine Sohn
Address: The Cleveland Arms, 28 Chilworth Street, London W2 6DT
Website: theclevelandarms.comCora Pearl, Covent Garden
Best Sunday roast in London for: The roast potatoes
Dish to order: Isle of Mull sirloin beefIf there’s one good reason to visit the thronged restaurants of Covent Garden on a Sunday (unless, of course, you’re here for a matinee meal), it’s Cora Peal, the much-awaited sequel to Mayfair’s perennially popular restaurant Kitty Fishers. Behind the windows’ steamy glow and discreet, thick curtained door, is a snug, French-boudoir-like spot, with crushed green-velvet banquettes, antique gilded mirrors and a mellow jazz soundtrack to keep you lingering all afternoon. The simple, British-led menu is steered by the same brilliant team: for starters, delightfully kitsch choices include devilled eggs, brown shrimp or even a grown-up ham-and-cheese toastie; on Sundays, they’re followed by mushroom-stuffed chicken breast or perfectly pink sirloin. There’s an army of sides; fluffy (and unlimited) Yorkshire puddings, thick heritage carrots, spears of charred broccoli, cauliflower swimming in rich Coolea cheese and dainty little pots of horseradish, bread sauce and gravy. And most importantly, Cora Pearl’s headline-grabbing chips – fat, crispy fingers of deep-fried, multi-layered mandolined potato that take 24 hours to perfect – that double up as lip-smackingly good roast potatoes too. We’d advise ordering several helpings. For pudding, stick to the theme and order another Yorkshire pudding; this time round, it comes stuffed with tart warm cherry compote and tonka-bean ice cream. Teddy Wolstenholme
Address: Cora Pearl, 30 Henrietta Street, Covent Garden, London WC2E 8NA
Website: corapearl.co.uk10 Greek Street, Soho
Best Sunday roast in London for: Soho on a Sunday
Dish to order: Suckling pig with new potatoes, cavolo nero and apple (for two)Soho has a particular charm on a Sunday morning – tranquil, minus the crowds from the night before, and quietly pretty even when it’s grey and miserable outside. For a cosy, unassuming Sunday lunch head to 10 Greek Street’s open-kitchen. Starters may include salsify with romesco and duck egg or potted mackerel with orange, kohlrabi and beetroot, followed by Welsh black beef with Jerusalem artichoke, broccoli and horseradish or veggie-friendly baked ricotta with wild mushrooms. To kick things off we ordered fresh burrata with grated lemon peel – the citrus hit convinced us it should always be served this way – and thinly sliced capocollo and cecina cured meats garnished with plump capers. The star-dish roast was a one-plate feast arriving on a heaped platter of crispy suckling pig, golden potatoes, cavolo nero and tiny yellow apples adding the right amount of sweetness. We were almost defeated by an enormous blackberry financier with quince and vanilla ice cream; a chocolate cake on another table looked equally formidable – a lighter way to round things off might be the lemon granita with vodka, washed down with an espresso. Katharina Hahn
Address: 10 Greek Street, Soho, London W1D 4DH
Website: 10greekstreet.com- Thomas Alexander
Temper, Soho
Best Sunday roast in London for: serious meat-eaters
Dish to order: the full roast and nothing but the full roastNormally, we advise you take a seat at the long, long kitchen counter here and watch in rapt fascination as meat is chopped, flames crinkle the air and tacos are rolled – as compulsive as Bodyguard but without the need for a bullet vest. For Sunday roast, though, well, you need a table, to spread out a little, lean back in your chair, make space for a pint of pale ale before you’ve even finished your Temper Mary. Soho basements used to be about jazz and all sorts of shenanigans; at Temper, it's smoky mezcal and BBQ cooking and a plate piled high with hillocks of beef-fat spuds and carrots, a Yorkshire pud big enough to hide in, and tender folds of farm-sourced lamb, pork and beef, cauliflower cheese on the side. Sit under one of the skylights and watch passing feet trip-trap above – little do they know what lies beneath them. To anyone who wonders if roasts aren’t better enjoyed at home, we say, ‘When would you ever cook lamb and beef and pork in one go, eh?’ Rick Jordan
Address: Temper, 25 Broadwick Street, London W1F 0DF
Website: temperrestaurant.com
- Kim Lightbody
The Harwood Arms, Fulham
Best Sunday roast in London for: Michelin-starred pub grub
Dish to order: Yorkshire grouseIt is not perhaps where you’d expect to find a Michelin-starred pub (in fact the only one in London). But this Fulham Broadway back street has quietly been home to one of the capital’s best kept secrets west of Hyde Park Corner for eight years. Head chef Sally Albe has notable stints with Gordon Ramsay, Phil Howard and The Ledbury’s Brett Graham under her belt and her food is unsurprisingly exacting. A weekend feast of Yorkshire grouse with creamed root vegetables followed by blackberry and bay leaf trifle is delightful, but you’ll need to book well in advance. Issy von Simson
Address: The Harwood Arms, Walham Grove, Fulham, London SW6 1QP
Website: harwoodarms.com Hero of Maida, Maida Vale
Best Sunday roast in London for: the interiors
Dish to order: slow-cooked shoulder of lambFrom the team behind The Coach in Clerkenwell, The Hero of Maida (an ode to Sir John Stuart, who in 1806, brought the British to victory over the French during the Napoleonic wars in the Italian town of Maida) brings upscale hearty pub grub to north west London. The space is filled with plush cobalt blue booths, brass fixtures and an eclectic range of artwork. On a warm day it’s perfectly breezy with the doors wide open, and in winter it’s cosy without being dark. Upstairs, there’s a more intimate space for dining, with a private room (and bedrooms in the works too). On Sundays, opt for the seven-hour, slow-roasted shoulder of lamb, or something from the rotating seasonal fish menu. For pudding, the Maida Mess, a take on the classic Eton mess with fresh strawberries, vanilla ice cream and mini meringue kisses, is a winner. Katharine Sohn
Address: The Hero of Maida, 55 Shirland Road, London W9 2JD
Website: theheromaidavale.co.ukBrat at Climpson’s Arch, London Fields
Best Sunday roast in London for: Feeling like you’re on holiday
Dish to order: Roast turbotFor something a little different from your traditional pub roast, take a trip to Brat at Climpson’s Arch. Just off London Fields in a covered forecourt outside Climpson’s coffee roastery, this is the cooler little sister restaurant of the Michelin-starred Shoreditch restaurant. The Basque-inspired menu runs through both restaurants and it’s all about beautiful meats and fish cooked on the open wood fire grill. While there’s not a dedicated Sunday lunch menu, this is food designed for sharing – ideal for big groups where you can order lots to get a taste of most of the tantalising menu. Check out the scrawled blackboard menu but there’s usually roast chicken rice, whole gunard, massive cornish crab, beef sirloin or rib on offer, plus the roasted whole turbot which is truly the star with its melting buttery flesh. Don’t scrimp on the sides of grilled hispi cabbage and smoked potatoes and do not leave without trying the traditional burnt Basque cheesecake. Heaven.
Address: Brat at Climpson’s Arch, Arch 374, Helmsley Place, London E8 3SB
Website: bratrestaurant.co.uk/climpsons-archThe Marksman, Hackney
Best Sunday roast in London for: A sleepy Sunday in east London
Dish to order: Seafood platterA visit to stock up on armfuls of blooms at Columbia Road Flower Market is a Sunday ritual which can only be enhanced by lunch at The Marksman nearby. This small but perfectly formed pub has made quite the name for itself since opening in 2015; it was the first London pub to be crowned Michelin Pub of the Year in 2016 and is still Michelin recommended. And with good reason. The food here is excellent any day of the week, but especially on Sunday. Start with a round of Maldon oysters, or a Seafood Platter if you want to make a splash, and then dive into the three-course menu which offers classics like roast Tamworth pork with swiss chard and mustard or Hereford Rump with a Yorkshire and lashings of Horseradish Cream. If you’re feeling less traditional, there are treats like Spenwood cheese, leek and potato pie, braised cuttlefish, roast tomato and monk’s beard and whole plaice with brown shrimps and sea purslane. Save room for the hot chocolate pudding and toffee sauce, and then get ready to order a cab so you can lie down and digest ASAP.
Address: The Marksman, 254 Hackney Road, London E2 7SJ
Website: marksmanpublichouse.com
The Duke of Cambridge, Islington
Best Sunday roast in London for: Conscious dining
Dish to order: Roast fish of the dayWe are all well-versed in the benefits of organic food these days but when The Duke of Cambridge opened in an Islington backstreet in 1998 with a Soil Association-certified kitchen, it was a much more niche concern. 24 years on and the food here is still the main attraction – seasonal, locally grown ingredients treated with love and respect – and the roasts are no exception. The roast menu is also seasonal so expect a changing roster of fresh Riverford veg along with your beef rump or roast chicken with beer onions. Our tip? Go for the roast fish of the day, served with preserved lemon and all of the regular trimmings and a Bloody Mary.
Address: The Duke of Cambridge, 30 St Peters Street, London, N1 8JT
Website: dukeorganic.co.ukThe White Swan, Richmond
Best Sunday roast in London for: the atmosphere of a small, old-school pub
Dish to order: Half-spiced roast chickenThis little pub feels like it’s a secret, tucked away off the main Richmond drag by the river. Take your dog and enjoy the sun-trap garden or snuggle down by the log fire when things get chilly. But, most importantly, the classic Sunday roast is fantastic. My tip? Go for the half-spiced roast chicken served with crispy roast potatoes. And then, sticky toffee pudding served with butterscotch sauce and honeycomb ice cream for pudding. Paula Ellis
Address: The White Swan, 26 Old Palace Lane, London TW9 1PG
Website: whiteswanrichmond.co.ukThe Bull & Gate, Hampstead Heath
Best Sunday roast in London for: classics with a twist
Dish to order: Big Bull RoastAfter a blustery walk on Hampstead Heath, there is no better feeling than the warm blast of air you get when entering this cosy classic pub. Although great for a warming brew, it would be remiss to pay a visit without ordering some food and the Sunday roast menu is one of the most tempting. The decadent starters set the tone with truffle and Jerusalem artichoke soup, pulled confit duck leg and smoked mackerel nicoise. Then there are the roasts: Aspall cider-braised pork belly, gammon and mustard croquette with applesauce, rump of beef and braised ox cheek, and half a chicken with pork, apple and sage stuffing. If you can’t decide and are feeling brave, go for the Big Bull Roast which has a bit of each and all the trimmings. If this all sounds a bit meaty, the veggie options are just as strong: we’d have the mushroom, chard and smoked seitan Wellington.
Address: The Bull & Gate, 389 Kentish Town Road, London NW5 2TJ
Website: bullandgatenw5.co.uk