Surf's up: the best surfing holidays in the world

Playa Maderas is only accessible by four-wheel-drive and while the first hour of the trip tootles past markets bursting with fruits you've never seen before, the second hour involves clinging on for dear life in the back of a pick-up truck. Here, the early bird catches the crowd-free surfing from 5am to 7am, with the best waves a few hours either side of high tide. The break is consistent all year and has more than 300 days of offshore winds. This tiny secret is what draws surfers from all over the world. Playa Maderas also has Nicaragua's most laid-back boutique lodge. It's the first hotel from surfers Matt Dickinson and Dave Grossman, who met while on a motorbike trip in Central America. Their artist-in-residency programme and recording studio attracts painters, writers and musicians who end up staying for undetermined periods of time. Along a trail a few metres from the beach, the cabanas, casitas and living areas are an extension of the surrounding jungle, with palapa roofs and wooden decks made from naturally fallen trees. Outdoor kundalini yoga classes, massages and energy healing are all available and the food is a riot of local ingredients: pitaya smoothies, fish tacos, avocados. Gather at communal tables to share beers, laughs and brilliant ideas.

Website: maderasvillage.com
Price: Doubles from about £45

The Modern Honolulu, Hawaii

Original superstar

From the broken surfboards behind the reception desk (smashed-up testaments to the encounters of top surfers Kelly Slater and Andy Irons with the monster waves on Oahu's North Shore) to the bookshelf of vintage surf titles that rotates at night to let you into the Study Bar, this place has Hawaiian beach style down. Initially designed by Ian Schrager as the first Edition hotel, it has added a dash of cool to what was previously a cheesy stretch of high-rises. At the edge of Waikiki, overlooking Ala Wai harbour, this is where surfing began: when Captain Cook showed up in 1769 he was astonished by the sight and skill of Polynesian royalty 'wave-sliding' on 18ft redwood boards. The break here is justifiably famous: long and slow and sandy on the bottom, so no nasty coral cuts when you fall. Plus, the paddle-out is short. The Modern arranges lessons at the surf school of Ty Gurney - Cameron Diaz and Adam Sandler's go-to guide. He makes the intimidating hipness that surrounds surfing disappear. Instead it's a lot of fun and he guarantees to get you standing in the first lesson. As you bob about in the gloriously warm Hawaiian Pacific, an instructor chooses which wave to send you into, and gives you a gentle shove just as the swell picks up your board. Suddenly you're up, going the speed of the ocean and it's bliss. After hours of oneness with the water, return to the hotel to lie in a hammock, green juice in hand, or tuck into sashimi at Morimoto, the Obamas' favourite restaurant.

Address: The Modern Honolulu, 1775 Ala Moana Boulevard Honolulu, Hawaii
Telephone: +1 808 450 3396
Website: themodernhonolulu.com
Price: Doubles from about £235

Surfers Lodge Peniche, Portugal

Bohemian hideout

An exciting find with probably the most consistent surf close to the UK. Just hop on a plane to Lisbon and drive an hour north to the Peniche peninsula. The lodge is a cross between a New York loft and an Orientalist opium den. Run by young Swede John Malmqvist (who has inherited his sense of style from his interior-designer father), it has an easygoing beach vibe. Furniture is salvaged, floor runners are upcycled rugs from Tehran and rooms range from dorms to smarter suites. But what makes this spot so special are the many excellent surf rides within an incredibly small area (Superturbos, on the world pro tour, is the ultimate). The lodge's surf academy is also a cut above, with endlessly patient, experienced instructors. After an exhausting session, head to the treatment room for a massage (they're thorough and deep). At sundown, everyone goes to unwind on the rooftop terrace, which has a pool and hot tub. With a DJ cranking out tunes into the night, this place is as much about socialising as surfing.

Address: Surfers Lodge Peniche, Avenida do mar, Casais do Baleal, Ferrel Peniche, Portugal
Telephone: +351 262 700 030
Website: surferslodgepeniche.com
Price: Doubles from about £70

Paradis Plage, Morocco

Sunny and close to home

This is Morocco's first proper beach resort dedicated to the big three: surf, spa and yoga. From Agadir, it's a 30-minute drive north along a stunning coastline with sandy beaches, traditional fishing villages and hippy hangouts. Paradis Plage is a series of low-rise stone buildings with thatch roofs and paths lined with flowers and herbs. The surf school, which cleverly maintains that tricky balance between laid-back vibe and professional teaching, is run by Tarik Wahbi, a Moroccan surf champion and award-winning rapper who doesn't pull any punches. The season runs from October to March and there are classes for all levels; after only a couple of hours even beginners should be able to stand up on a board in the shallows at Banana Beach. For the more experienced, the best spots include Anchor Point to the south and La Source to the north. When you want to rest aching limbs, visit the hammam at the spa or sign up for a yoga session in the airy studio overlooking the beach. Afterwards, join the gang tucking into fresh calamari while sitting on oversize cushions on the Surf House deck or dine at the Khaima, a pretty nomad-style tent on the sand.

Address: Health and Fitness Travel, Km 26 route d'Essaouira, Imi Ouaddar, Morocco
Telephone: +44 20 3397 8891
Website: healthandfitnesstravel.com
Price: Seven nights from £890 per person sharing, including a surfing programme, flights and transfers

Bannisters by the Sea, Australia

Off-the-radar down under

New South Wales' South Coast, a three-hour drive from Sydney and stretching from Jervis Bay, isn't widely known for its world-class surfing, but it should be. There's a mix of beach and reef breaks suitable for all levels, and they are nicely positioned to catch swells from the north-east to the south. You'll see dolphins on most morning sessions; stay out on the water afterwards and dive for abalone for your supper. Aussie Pipeline, Green Island, Narrawallee Beach, Mollymook and Dolphin Point are popular breaks that locals will happily talk about, but once you head south of the Ulladulla lighthouse information dries up fast. Secret spots can be found down tracks only accessible by four-wheel-drive - you might have to tailgate a yute with a board strapped on top to find them. And keen beginners can learn in small classes taught by Pam Burridge, a pioneer of women's surfing in Australia. Bannisters by the Sea is the best place to stay, a beach retreat that is continuously being upgraded from its motel roots. Fashion designer Collette Dinnigan has taken over two of the penthouse suites and injected them with nautical-striped glamour. The hotel also has a seafood restaurant by Rick Stein, who has spearheaded a foodie scene in the area over the past five years.

Address: Bannisters by the Sea, Mollymook Beach, New South Wales, Australia
Telephone: +61 2 445 53044
Website: bannisters.com.au
Price: Doubles from about £120

Ocean Soul Retreat, Bali

All-girl surf and yoga

There's always somewhere to surf on Bali. The best time is the peak dry season - April to October - with daily sunshine and trade winds favouring the south-west coastline. Southernmost Uluwatu has some of the world's most awesome breaks. The shallow waters of the Kuta-Legian-Seminyak stretch are best for those learning to surf, while the larger breaks further out attract more experienced riders. In a contemporary villa 15 minutes from Seminyak beach, all-new Ocean Soul Retreat stands out from the growing number of surf escapes with its gentle, holistic approach aimed at helping women to achieve inner balance and learn new skills. Australian founder Georgie White keeps the group to a maximum of 10 for superglue-strong bonding. Surfing is the main focus with lessons at the only Balinese-owned surf school in Seminyak involving 10 hours of super-personalised tutoring. Back at the villa, the Ocean Soul instructor gives post-breakfast briefings and post-session photo feedback, analysing any bad habits. Deep-tissue massages and six yoga sessions prepare muscles for all that surfing and there are nutrient-packed meals developed by a Melbourne-based naturopath to keep energy levels up.

Address: Ocean Soul Retreat, Jalan Braban, Seminyak, Bali
Website: oceansoulretreat.com
Price: Offers a seven-night Surf and Yoga Programme from about £1,715 full board, including yoga and surf lessons

Tropicsurf, Four Seasons Kuda Huraa, Maldives

Island of champions

The clear waters of the Maldives have been attracting divers for 40 years. Surprisingly, surfers have been coming for just as long - but they like to keep quiet about how good it is. All the greats have chased waves here, including Dave Rastovich, Tom Curren and Harley Ingleby. And high-end company Tropicsurf has its flagship shack on the island resort of Kuda Huraa. Chris Prewitt, the instantly likeable coach, has spent more than a decade guiding the best breaks in the Maldives. Beginners will spend a couple of hours in the warm lagoon learning how to paddle, time the wave and get up on the board. This is the first stage in Tropicsurf's 10-step programme. Once you're confident with the basics, the team take you out to the best breaks for coaching clinics. Experienced surfers head to Sultans, Honkeys and Cokes. The well-heeled can join a surfing cruise onboard the Four Seasons' motoryacht Explorer or charter a floatplane to deserted breaks. It doesn't get much better - surfing in a pristine paradise and staying in a deeply comfortable hotel.

Address: Four Seasons Kuda Huraa, Maldives at Kuda Huraa, North Malé Atoll, Maldives
Website: fourseasons.com/maldiveskh
Price: beach pavilions from about £730. Qatar Airways flies from London to Malé

This feature first appeared in Condé Nast Traveller's Spa Guide 2016

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Contributors: Ian Belcher, Thomas Breathnach, Bradley Cocks, Samantha Coomber, Laura Ivill, Jade Moyano, Antonia Whyatt

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