An expert's guide to visiting the Galápagos Islands
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It’s one of the greatest national parks on earth, the place where visitors get a front-row view of nature like nowhere else in the world. From giant tortoises the size of small cars to great piles of sunbathing iguanas, dancing blue-footed boobies, nosy sea lions and wolf-whistling frigate birds – when it comes to wildlife, the Galapagos archipelago delivers a tameless spectacle. With more than 4,000 species, and 40 per cent of them found nowhere else on earth, it’s impossible not to have your socks well and truly knocked off.
These volcanic islands have never been connected to the mainland but gradually, over many hundreds and thousands of years, animals and plants have somehow migrated here and over time developed ways to adapt to the harsh conditions, eventually becoming unique species of their own. Charles Darwin spent five weeks in the Galapagos in 1835, travelling on board HMS Beagle, a trip that led to the pinnacle of scientific discovery. It was on these arid islands that the young naturalist formed the basis of the theory of evolution, changing the way we think about the natural world forever.
Getty ImagesBecause of Darwin and, later, Sir David Attenborough (a certain BBC documentary series caused more people than ever to dub this their ultimate once-in-a-lifetime adventure), the Galapagos Islands have been luring more than 150,000 visitors to its shores each year. It is made up of 13 major and six minor islands, four of which are inhabited, as well as over 40 small islets, and everyone has to pay a $100 entrance fee for the privilege of visiting. Tours on inhabited islands are closely restricted and must be with an accredited guide to help preserve this sanctuary from reckless tourism.
On first glimpse, the Galapagos is not exactly a desert-island fantasy. Even Darwin himself wrote that ‘nothing could be less inviting’ – these isolated rocks scattered with desiccated vegetation reveal nothing of their secrets. To see them in all their glory you need to get up close, on foot and beneath the water.
Getty ImagesWhen is the best time to visit the Galapagos Islands?
There is no bad time to travel to the Galapagos Islands, but it’s worth knowing about the two seasons. The cool and dry season runs from June to December, and the wet and warm season is from December to May. The warmer season is often the best time to visit as you’ll have calmer seas and better underwater visibility. We visited in November and while there was the odd shower (see our packing guide below), we had sunny but not-too-hot days with great snorkelling conditions and no mosquitos – a definite bonus.
Where to stay in the Galapagos Islands
Land-based and independent travel in the populated islands is one way to do the Galapagos but definitely not the best – you’ll only see a very small part of what coming here is all about. For those without sea legs, combining an eco-hotel stay with a shorter-duration cruise (aka land cruise) is a good compromise.
Pikaia Lodge
This luxury eco-hotel lies on the eastern edge of Santa Cruz island in a 31-hectare private reserve that gives it a Jurassic Park feel. Solar panels, recycling and a wind turbine allow the lodge to generate up to a third of its own power and to make the best use of water. Rooms are designed like the bridges of ships and guests have access to the hotel’s day cruises on two private yachts where they are given their own cabin, while nearby islands are great for snorkelling and sightseeing.
Address: Pikaia Lodge, Sector El Camote a 100 m del Cerro Mesa, Santa Cruz, Galapagos, Ecuador 200105, Ecuador
Website: pikaialodge.com
Finch Bay
One of the island’s longest-standing hotels, Finch Bay is the closest you’ll get to a Galapagos beach club. Sitting on the edge of a quiet bay next to Santa Cruz’s main harbour, with a shiny new spa that opened in October 2019, the hotel can only be reached by boat and takes its eco credentials seriously with an on-site seawater treatment plan, a greenhouse that supplies the kitchen and locally caught fish. Similarly to Pikaia, there’s also a yacht available for guests who want to pay extra for day excursions.
Address: Finch Bay, Puerto Ayora, Ecuador
Website: finchbayhotel.comEcoventura
The Galapagos is no place for honking great cruise ships; instead boutique cruiser specialist and Ecuadorian-owned Ecoventura is one of the most reputable on the islands with some of the chicest fleets you’ll see. Importantly, the boats have been designed to leave barely an imprint on the islands they visit due to low emissions. The boats – Theory, Origin and Letty – are all about intimate cruising (the Letty is ending service soon and being replaced by a new yacht called Evolve in 2021). Relais & Chateaux-certified Theory and Origin have just 10 stylish cabins and 14 crew, as well as a hot tub, sun deck with hammocks and sprawling sunbeds, plus two experienced naturalist guides. Itineraries are seven nights, with western and northern routes available.
Website: ecoventura.com
Getty ImagesThe best Galapagos Islands to visit
Fernandina
A real gem of an island and a definite favourite for those lucky to make it here (not all cruises are allowed), Fernandina is the youngest and most pristine island in the Galapagos, formed by active volcanoes that stretch around the coast. The terrain is rugged and black, the same colour as those land iguanas that gather in great hordes (watch your step!). You’ll see sea lions and their pups snoozing on the beach and nests of the flightless cormorants close to the shore.
Genovesa
While the Galapagos in general is a bird lover’s dream, on this north-east island visitors are sure to see hundreds of species – and we don’t mean in binocular distance but quite literally nesting on the ground, two feet ahead. Look out for red-footed boobies and Nazca boobies in palo santo trees and storm petrels resting in open lava fields. Snorkelling near Genovesa is also a treat for those who fancy swimming with turtles.
Getty ImagesRabida
The striking dark-red beach on this small island is almost Mars-like. It is considered the geographic centre of the Galapagos and its volcanic rocks are the most diversified in the archipelago. Come here for the greater flamingos that live in the saltwater lagoons – lining up in flocks, as if about to start a synchronised dance, before spreading their wings and taking flight. It’s a jaw-dropping sight.
Isabela
There’s lots of evidence of volcanic activity on Isabela, the largest of the islands, as well as coral skeletons from beneath the seabed plus giant tortoises, Darwin’s finches, brown pelicans and flightless cormorants. The biggest highlight here might just be found in the water where visitors come nose-to-fin with Galapagos penguins (the only penguins found north of the equator). Get your GoPro ready – they really do whizz by.
Getty ImagesSanta Cruz
The second-largest island in the Galapagos, with more than 12,000 inhabitants, Santa Cruz is home to most of the hotels, but it’s also an island of incredible natural life, away from the hubbub of town. On the far northerly side lies Las Bachas, an otherworldly landscape and the opportunity to see flamingos in lagoons, cruising iguanas and lizards galore.
The highlands provide a lush contrast to the beaches and arid lowlands, and you’ll want to visit one of the privately owned haciendas, a protected farm owned by the Moreno family called Las Primicias, where you’ll find plenty of giant Galapagos tortoises, some weighing a staggering 440lbs. Lots of good photo opportunities here.
In the main town area of Puerto Ayora is the Charles Darwin Research Station. Now this isn’t really the place to see wildlife, especially for those who have spent a week cruising around the islands and seen the iguanas and tortoises in a wild and more secluded setting; however, it is the home of a Galapagos celebrity: taxidermied Lonesome George. He’s the last tortoise of his species found in the Galapagos that tragically died of natural causes just weeks before he was due to be partnered up with a mate. He’s become a symbol for the importance of preserving and protecting endangered species on the islands.
What to pack for the Galapagos Islands
Choosing what to bring on a trip to the Galapagos can be tricky, especially if you’re combining this with a stay in the Andes or cloud forest. It’s also worth noting that the internal flights from Ecuador to San Cristóbal (known as the gateway to the Galapagos) mostly have a 23kg (50lbs) bag restriction. For anyone staying on a boat, you also need to be able to store your luggage under your cabin bed, so huge suitcases won’t be practical. Here’s what should make the cut:
Light rain jacket
Whatever the season, a waterproof jacket is an absolute must. The weather can be quite changeable on the islands, so it’s worth bringing a packable rain jacket in your rucksack for day adventures. A Mac-in-a-Sac was ideal for this and didn’t compromise on luggage space.
Marine-friendly sunscreen
With the Galapagos being on the equator, the sun here is more intense than you’ll be used to and even on cloudy days you need to slather on sun protection. For those doing lots of snorkelling marine-friendly suncream is recommended. Brands such as Ultrasun and Caudalie offer mineral formulas with high protection.
Layers
The Galapagos is a pretty active trip and you’ll be doing lots of walking, so a mix of T-shirts and long-sleeved tops is essential for when you’re out and about in the changeable climate. It’s worth investing in a UV-protection top too if you’re fair-skinned.
Shorts
Bring trousers as well, but for jumping in and out of the Zodiac with some wet landings (when you get dropped off on a beach), shorts are just easier. Quick-drying ones from your gym kit? Even better.
Hiking boots
Being made up of volcanic rocks, the terrain can be uneven at times, so while you can get away with trainers, a pair of hiking boots or shoes are very useful and will give you better footing. Some suggest bringing water shoes too for wet landings – you don’t necessarily need these; just wear flip-flops and carry your hiking boots in your bag to change into.
Hat with string
A cute straw hat won’t really cut it for this kind of trip. You’ll want a sturdy hiking hat with some sort of neck tie because the wind can be strong at times. Most adventure-wear stores stock these – brands such as Tilley have a chic selection of hats that pack flat in your suitcase.
Waterproof rucksack
You’re going to need a medium-sized day bag that’s big enough to carry your reusable water bottles (plastic ones are banned on the islands), sunscreen, rain jacket and phone and cameras. Either use it as your hand luggage on the flight or pack one that’s light and travel-friendly. Arket has a good selection.
Motion-sickness patches
Cruising the Galapagos isn’t all plain sailing, the sea can be extremely choppy, especially at night. Most boats have sea-sickness tablets available, but bringing some motion-sickness stickers that go on the back of your ears will help alleviate symptoms in the daytime and they stay put even when you’re swimming.
Casual cruise wear
Ecuador in general is fairly low-key and dressing up for dinner isn’t really a big deal, but it’s worth bringing a few smarter tops and casual dresses to change into, as well as a kaftan or maxi-dress for chilling in the afternoons.
Go-Pro camera
A professional camera is great if you have one, but if it’s a weigh-up between this and a reliable underwater camera, go for a Go-Pro. Snorkelling or diving is one of the biggest highlights of the trip and there won’t be many places on earth where sea lions come right up to your goggles. Bring one of the extending poles which will be useful both on land and underwater, and a head strap to capture videos easily.
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