Milos, Greece: the Greek island of the summer
![Milos Greece A guide to the secret Greek island of the summer](https://media.cntraveller.com/photos/6228ab76908a6ce1c674d272/16:9/w_320%2Cc_limit/milos%2520greece.jpg)
Up until the last few years, the luminous Cycladic island of Milos was a secret destination surreptitiously shared among Greek couples. With more than 70 beaches, considered among the best in the Aegean, the isle where the Louvre’s prized Venus de Milo was found has a fascinating history and spellbinding volcanic landscapes like lunar-like Sarakiniko. With fresh new places to stay, exciting restaurants, and classic waterfront bars, Milos is evolving into one of the Mediterranean’s most sought-after vacay spots.
Where to stay on Milos
Accessible via a direct flight from Athens, the boltholes on the island are largely made up of guest houses, self-catering villas and suites, though a new hotspot hotel, Domes, opened last year. For our favourite options, see our guide to the best hotels in Milos.
What to do on Milos
1. Explore Milos’ wild west with a 4WD safari
Almost all of the island’s wild, tough-to-access west falls under the protection of the EU’s Natura 2000 network. The best way to explore it is by four-wheel-drive on an insightful full-day tour led by a knowledgeable local guide. Visit an inactive volcano and learn about its morphology, spot migratory birds at the Achivadolimni wetlands and trek through rust-red caves at an abandoned manganese mine in Cape Vani, before cooling off at sandy, little-trodden Agathia beach.
Website: milosgreece.gr
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2. Take a self-guided hike through history
You don’t need to be a geology, history or cartography nerd to find the six Miloterranean Geo Walk routes to be fascinating. Experts in these fields, together with mining engineers and foresters, created the detailed self-guided online hiking maps on behalf of the Milos Mining Museum, which is worth a visit in itself. Trails of varying lengths lead to the old sulphur mines at Theorychia, a prehistoric obsidian quarry and the Fylakopi archaeological site, among other highlights.
Website: miloterranean.gr
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3. Track down beaches loved by locals
Escape the crowds at Milos’ hotspots and head northeast to peaceful Alogomandra beach, where locals gather. Arrive early and snare a shady spot on fine sand below a partially-collapsed cave. Fewer venture to Gerontas beach, around 40 minutes drive southwest of Adamas, to which you should factor in a 20-minute walk. The waters here are deep and tranquil and the sand volcanic. Solitude seekers should rent a four-wheel drive and head west to Triades to cavort across a trio of pristine, often people-free sandy beaches.
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4. Sail to dreamy Sykia and Kleftiko
Milos-born and-bred captain Elias Xydous and his wife Mary run one of the island’s most comprehensive full-day sailing tours aboard their trusty 40-foot sailboat Oneiro. Take in views of syrmata villages before dropping anchor for a swim and snorkel within the wondrous Sykia sea cave, followed by former pirate hideout Kleftiko’s soaring limestone cliffs. Kalogria is the final swim stop and, in between, Mary will keep you well fed with seafood pasta and assorted mezze.
Address: Adamas, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: milosoneiro.com
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5. Dive where pirates roamed
While it’s unlikely you’ll stumble onto buried treasure, you can don scuba gear and take a closer look at the vibrant volcanic seabed in Kleftiko or inspect the Africa shipwreck off Sarakiniko. PADI-certified Dive in Milos caters to both novices and experienced divers. If you’re extremely lucky, you may spot a Mediterranean monk seal, one of the world’s rarest marine mammals. A small population of this protected species breeds in the waters between Milos, Kimolos and Poliegos islands.
Address: Adamas, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: diveinmilos.gr
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6. Cruise the coast at your own speed
Milos has around 78 beaches, yet less than half are accessible by land. Boat rental is a rarity in the windswept Cyclades, so take advantage of the opportunity to beach-hop at your leisure. Hire a 30-horsepower motorboat, for which a boating licence isn’t required, from Blue Mile Boat Rentals. Pack a picnic lunch, protective clothing and suncream and seek out secret swimming spots like Gerakas, where the sea is an eye-watering shade of cyan.
Address: Adamas, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: bluemile.gr/en
7. Swim off heavenly Poliegos
East of Milos lies Poliegos, home to a retired couple and what some argue are Greece’s most surreal blue-green waters. You’ll want to tap Salty Rides for a customised, all-day excursion aboard a speedy RIB exploring the islet’s seemingly limitless coves and peninsulas. If the weather permits, skipper siblings Manolis and Michael Tourlos might take you to isolated Soufi Bay and a fjord in northern Kimolos. Included are take-home beach towels, sea toys and Milean cheese pies.
Address: Pollonia, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: saltyrides.gr
8. Sample cave-aged wine
Milos’ geological profile lends itself to a centuries-old European tradition of ageing wine in a cave. Inspired by Greece’s wine-making heritage harking back to antiquity, vintner Kostas Mallis recently introduced fermentation of the wine in clay amphoras at his family-run winery housed in a cave. Pay a visit to the warmly-welcoming Pollonia winery and be one of the first to sample these experimental wines, produced with Roditis and Savvatiano grapes from vines planted by his grandfather more than 50 years ago.
Address: Pollonia, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: kostantakiswinery.com
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9. Spend the day on Kimolos
Hop into your hire car and board the ferry that crisscrosses regularly between Pollonia and Kimolos island, whose minuscule size belies its rare mineral bounty. Photogenic syrmata line the waterfront in Goupa-Kara, where rocky outposts beckon swimmers to dive in. Even more impressive waters, a dazzling shade of emerald, await at Prassa beach. In cobblestoned main town Horio, alleyways lead to a fortified settlement. Down at Psathi port, To Kyma taverna tempts yachties with fine carpaccio and ceviche.
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10. Catch a performance at an ancient theatre
While the Aphrodite of Milos may be in the Louvre in Paris, the island retains an important piece of its ancient past in the form of a painstakingly-preserved marble amphitheatre. Located on a hill above a bay near Tripiti, the monument is thought to date to the Hellenistic period but was remodelled during the Roman era. Reminiscent of the ancient Greek theatre in Turkey’s Ephesus, it hosts occasional theatre and music performances for an audience of up to 700.
Address: Tripiti, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: odysseus.culture.gr
Best bars on Milos
1. Verina
After years living in Athens and spending summers in his native Milos, Stelios Mathioudakis found the perfect location to open a bar in the island’s picturesque hilltop capital of Plaka. He named it Verina, which translates as twisted nautical knot. Low-lit and atmospheric, the bar is decked out with timber rafters, fishing net light fixtures and a seafarer’s portrait. Order the Sailor’s Punch, a mix of aged rum, pineapple, passionfruit, falernum liqueur, ginger and aromatic bitters and catch the sunset from neighbouring Panagia Korfiatissia church’s courtyard.
Address: Verina, Plaka, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: instagram.com/verina_cocktail_bar
2. Aragosta
Milos’ nightlife is concentrated in the port town of Adamas and, while the scene is exceptionally subdued compared to its sleepless Cycladic sister Mykonos, there are a couple of small, casual spots where you can party. Everyone seems to congregate at longstanding meeting spot Aragosta after 11pm to people-watch or groove to RnB and pop tracks. Order an Aragosta Champagne with prosecco, Moët, strawberry and Amaretto.
Address: Aragosta, Adamas, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: aragosta.gr
3. Akri
Akri, which means edge in Greek, certainly lives up to its name. Alexandros Desbordes converted his grandmother’s traditional home in a quiet corner above Adamas’ port into a classic bar in 1995. Jazz, lounge and ethnic beats dominate the three stone-paved outdoor spaces, where patrons can watch ferries silently come and go. Around 10pm, the DJ turns up the volume indoors and switches to disco, funk and pop. Akri’s namesake cocktail blends mastiha liqueur, gin, lime, grapefruit soda and cardamom bitters.
Address: Akri, Adamas, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: facebook.com/akrimilos
4. Utopia
Seats at Plaka’s only bar with an alfresco terrace that looks out onto the Aegean are highly sought-after, particularly when the sun starts to go down and casts a burnt sienna glow on the sea. Jazz, RnB and Greek ballads are the music mainstays, while the crowd is a mix of families, couples and parties of friends. There’s an excellent selection of premium spirits, fine Greek wines, cocktails and mocktails like Vir-Gin Fizz, an amalgam of zero alcohol gin, redcurrant syrup and soda water, plus local cheese platters.
Address: Utopia, Plaka, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: facebook.com/UtopiaCafePlakaMilos
5. Mostra
Couples of all ages gravitate to this super mellow watering hole for its spacious, elevated sea-front terrace offering front-row seat views of yachts jostling for space in Adamas’ busy port, their lights twinkling in the night. The soundtrack at Mostra, which is part of Hotel Adamas, comprises lounge, soft melodic and rhythmic vibes. Cocktails are of the classic kind so you can expect the full gamut, from Negroni and Old Fashioned to Cosmopolitan and Aperol Spritz.
Address: Mostra, Adamas, Milos, 848 00, Greece
Website: instagram.com/mostra_cocktail_bar