Dartmoor: a breath of fresh air
From Arthur Conan Doyle to Agatha Christie, writers and artists have been inspired by Dartmoor's untamed wilderness for centuries. But these beautiful moors also have a softer, more serene side to discover
Delve deeper into Dartmoor's mysteries
If anyone holds the key to unlocking the mysteries of Dartmoor's wild and brooding landscape of granite tors, undulating heather moorland and treacherous bog, it is retired policeman turned walking guide, Simon Dell, director of Moorland Guides (moorlandguides.co.uk). Hotel Gidleigh Park will arrange guided walks for guests, or you can book bespoke half or full-day forays direct, with Simon or one of his 30-strong band of moorland enthusiasts. Prehistoric stone circles, peacefully grazing, rugged Dartmoor ponies and ancient granite clapper bridges (usually characterised by flat stones resting on stone piers, a name probably originating from cleac, Anglo Saxon for stepping stone) await on anecdote-packed outdoor adventures.
Divine dining at Gidleigh Park
The recent arrival at Gidleigh Park of executive head chef Michael Wignall from The Latymer at Pennyhill Park in Surrey is news indeed for bon viveurs. For it is not just the great outdoors which makes Dartmoor unmissable but also gastronomy. Gidleigh's parkland setting near Chagford is sublime, and so too, is Wignall's culinary artistry. Lightly smoked ricotta, French asparagus, morels, bianchetto truffle, wild garlic, roasted turnip, parmesan preceded lightly salted cod, torched scallop, caulifower textures, charcoal emulsion, iberico lardo on a recent tasting menu. Form an orderly queue.
Address: Gidleigh Park
Telephone: +44 1647 43 23 67
Website: gidleigh.co.uk
Price: Seven-course tasting menu (dinner), bed and breakfast for two, £465
A unique foodie treasure trail in Ashburton
Ashburton on the south-eastern edge of the moor is an ancient stannary town (from stannum, Latin for tin) where mined tin was once assessed and coined. Today it is an almost chain-free nugget of independent retailers - antiques, delis and teashop respite for walkers. Scoop up edible souvenirs for a Devon feast back home from the tiny Artisan Bakery, whose loaves sell out fast each morning, cheeses from small producers in the alluring Ashburton Delicatessen (ashburtondelicatessen.co.uk), day boat fish, diver-harvested scallops and olives from the Fish Deli (thefishdeli.co.uk) which also has an array of pottery on which to serve your haul.
Sleep in a 1920s country house
There is a hint of glee as Liz Jones talks about the renovation she and husband Richard have effected at Archerton, their 1920s colonial-style Dartmoor pile. Bold Lewis & Wood wallaper, birds, boughs and flowers, wind their way across the hallway and up a dramatic staircase, illuminated by a giant, suspended orb from Charles Edwards in Chelsea. A third guest bedroom is soon to join a high-ceilinged pair with unbeatable views of Haytor and Hameldown, crisp bedlinen, bathroom and loo either side of a private hall. For chic B&B, these are the Joneses to keep up with.
Address: Archerton, Postbridge, Yelverton, Devon
Telephone: +44 1822 88 02 86
Website: archerton.co.uk
Price: Doubles, £120 B&B per night
Take the ride of your life
After three days in the (comfortable, Western) saddle with Liberty Trails, riders depart bewitched and becalmed by Dartmoor. 'It has a special energy,' says company owner, Elaine Prior, about the domain she's ridden since childhood. Prior takes proficient riders across rivers, scrambling up banks, and cantering over limitless miles of heather on English hunters and American Quarter Horses. Twice yearly there is even a chance to join cattle drives, when livestock is moved from summer or winter grazing. And you thought you had to go to the USA for such equine excitement.
Three-night riding breaks, staying at top local hotels, from £950pp, with Liberty Trials (liberty-trails.com).
Gidleigh Park
Gidleigh Park
Gidleigh Park Dartmoor
Archerton
Archerton
Archerton
Ashburton Delicatessen
Ashburton Delicatessen
Ashburton Delicatessen
Gidleigh Park