Review: Shangri-La at the Shard hotel review

Selected by the editors as one of the best hotels in London

First impression Wow, wow, wow.
Staff On the ball and there when you need them.
Food and drinks East meets west.
Bed and bath Reassuringly slick, albeit a little humdrum. But that doesn’t matter here.
The crowd Staycationers with something to celebrate or cash to splurge.
In a nutshell Extreme luxury high up in the clouds.

Set the scene
It takes just 26 ear-popping seconds to whizz up to the 34th floor of The Shard, the UK’s tallest building. The Renzo Piano-designed skyscraper can be seen protruding from the London skyline from as far as 25 miles away, while views from the gallery at the summit stretch all the way to the green fields of Sussex and Kent. Just steps from London Bridge station – one of the city’s most important transport hubs – The Shangri-La hotel takes up 18 floors in the middle of The Shard, with its own dedicated entrance on St Thomas Street. Sharp-suited doormen stand poised, ready to lead guests to the hotel’s dedicated lift – and what an entrance. As the doors ping open, you’re greeted with a split-level, marble-clad lobby that hums with the overawed delight of guests poring over the floor-to-ceiling widescreen panoramas.

What’s the story?
This is the Hong Kong-based Shangri-La group’s second European property (after Paris) and the eagerly awaited hotel finally opened its doors in 2014 after being riddled with delays. The extraordinary 95-storey pyramidal building was built from more than 11,000 panels of glass – and while it’s filled with a mix of office space, residential flats and a clutch of destination destination restaurants and bars, the hotel is the jewel in the Shard’s lofty crown. There were a few teething problems when it first opened – guests complained of being able to see into neighbouring bedrooms with the sun bouncing off the glass – but there’s no denying the superlative views over London from every angle. While the design is unashamedly luxurious and reassuringly contemporary, there’s nothing particularly ground-breaking about it. But that’s entirely the point; with London’s cityscape laid out like a carpet beneath each window, this is a hotel that doesn’t need to try too hard.

What can we expect from our room?
Each of the 202 rooms are more or less the same size – they’re priced on views rather than square footage (top pick are the ones overlooking Tower Bridge and the Thames’ sinuous trail), while a handful of showstopping suites come with kitchenettes, sitting and dining rooms the size of an average London flat and hi-tech telescopes for peeping out at the view. Each one is smart and slick – if a little corporate (there’s a lot of pale wood and blue swirly carpets) – allowing the muted design to put the real focus on what’s outside. Plan to spend much of your time pressed up against the floor-to-ceiling glass or curled in an armchair with the thoughtfully provided pair of binoculars, watching ant-like people and Lego-sized buses scuttling along the streets below. Some of the decor takes cues from Shangri-La’s Asian heritage; there’s cherry-blossom chinoiserie behind the bed, sliding lacquer doors and kimonos in the walk-in wardrobe. Brown-marble bathrooms have televisions hidden in their mirrors, rainforest showers stashed with L’Occitane goodies and – in most – a freestanding bathtub angled towards the views, with a little wooden tub of bath salts and a reading (or wine-glass) stand in anticipation of lengthy soaking sessions.

How about the food and drink?
Evenings start with drinks on the 52nd floor at Gong, the highest hotel bar in Europe. Come early to bag one of the coveted window seats (otherwise, there’s a waiting list and guests are moved as soon as a table becomes available). The constantly changing cocktail menu focuses on baijiu-based drinks (China's national liquor) – try the sharply sweet Marco Polo which muddles the spirit with amaretto, lemon and vodka. The restaurant, Ting, does European fine dining with an Asian twist; beef tartare with pickled kohlrabi, sea bass with a crayfish bisque and passionfruit pudding with coconut sorbet. Lots of the ingredients are sourced from suppliers in Borough Market, including cheese from Neal’s Yard and meat from Cannon & Cannon. The Asian theme carries over to the afternoon tea served in the Ting Lounge, with matcha-spiked eclairs and smoked-salmon and wasabi sandwiches.

Anything to say about the service?
A seamless, swift check-in sets the tone; staff are discreet but on the ball, proffering heated towels as you climb the steps from the pool and leaving a canvas shoe bag on your pillow at turndown – leave it out overnight and your shoes will be shined by the morning. And affable GM Kurt Macher is a huge dog fan – he’s working on making the hotel more pet-friendly so four-legged creatures get to enjoy the views, too.

What sort of person comes here?
A surprising number of Brits enjoying a staycation or celebrating a special occasion; business travellers with generous expense allowances; City boys entertaining clients; and romantics – a LOT of proposals happen here.

What’s the neighbourhood scene like?
London’s legendary Borough Market sits at the foot of the Shard, full of ruddy-cheeked fruit-and-veg traders and food stalls offering oysters and artisan sourdough. It’s also home to popular restaurants including Padella (people wait in line for hours for bowls of their famed cacio e pepe) and Taiwanese bun shop Bao. The Tower of London and St Paul’s are just across the river (history buffs can have a nosy around HMS Belfast on the way), while the Tate Modern, the South Bank and the London Eye are all within walking distance. It takes a bit longer to reach the West End, but London Bridge station is a convenient launchpad for longer-distance jaunts.

Anything you’d change?
The pool could do with being a few degrees warmer – it’s not really big enough for proper swimming but it’s too chilly to linger in for much longer than a quick photo opportunity. But on the flipside, that does stop it from getting too overcrowded.

Anything we missed?
Like the bar, the 52nd-floor infinity pool is the highest in Europe – and peering over the edge at a lit-up London is pretty spectacular. There’s a 24-hour gym, and work is underway on an authentic Finnish sauna, which will, of course, have views as well.

Is it worth staying here?
Few hotels can offer such an enchanting perspective on a city. Plan to spend as much time staying in as you do heading out – this is a hotel with serious wow-factor, and you’ll want to linger rather than using it simply as a place to sleep.