Review: COMO Shambhala Estate, Bali, Indonesia spa review

Set the scene

Acres of lush Edenic gardens flank steep forested terrain with the flamboyant reds and yellows of trumpet tree blossoms. Mist rises above rice terraces, and a sacred spring overflows into bathing pools seemingly hewn into natural rock. It’s hard to find a more beautiful backdrop to focus on oneself. Como Shambhala is one of the original greats, offering a rare union of health kick and holiday vibe in Bali’s cultural capital, Ubud.

Since closing for two years during Covid, the property has had a revitalising shot, with new wellness director Kimberly Rose Kneier launching programmes targeting fitness and detox, lifestyle and beauty, as well as introducing some tech, including sound frequency hubs for better sleep, an infrared sauna and a hyperbaric chamber. Kneier herself focuses on traditional Chinese healing, especially pain relief and women’s health, using acupuncture (her touch is featherlight) and meridian stretch Qigong (I felt the qi tingle!). Behind the powerful Ayurvedic programme is Dr Prasanth Vayanakathu. Together, the pair focus on fundamental transformative healing rather than quick fixes, and they don’t shy away from spirituality and energetics, forces they say are magnified by this revered location on the banks of the Ayung. “Even if you’re not into the woo-woo stuff,” Kneier told me, “this environment is still a sanctuary.”

What's the backstory?

Established in 1995, this property has serious pioneering pedigree. Its first iteration, Begawan Giri Estate, was founded by British couple Debora and Bradley Gardner, who had come across the land six years earlier while on a picnic walk. They wanted to create a private estate that worked in tandem with surrounding villages, using materials that were in keeping with the landscape. For the Gardners, it was paradise found, and the five-residence property became legendary. A few years later, Singaporean hotelier Christina Ong snapped it up, adding to her global portfolio that stretches from Tuscany to the Turks and Caicos. She shifted the focus to wellness by adding yoga pavilions, hydrotherapy pools and colonic treatments, creating an Eat Pray Love escape that is more about abundance than deprivation.

What’s the wellness concept?

This is about a reset for a long-term lifestyle change, something more sustainable than a quickly forgotten health boost. The wellness team supports guests as they unplug, immerse themselves in nature and learn more about authentic Balinese culture. Ancient therapies and traditional treatments are at the core of the programme, although they’ve recently been introducing some tech: in-room sound frequency hubs for better sleep, a hyperbaric chamber for faster healing from injury, a temperature-controlled IR sauna and an electric facial machine.

What are the signature treatments?

The COMO Shambhala treatment is the perfect post-flight intro: a relaxing, long-stroke, medium-pressure massage using a natural essential oil blend of eucalyptus, sweet almond, lavender, peppermint and primrose. Ayurvedic practitioner Dr Prasanth deploys dosha-specific medicated oils and herbs in his treatments, from the cleansing rituals of panchakarma to shirodhara, a deeply relaxing head massage.

Which therapist should I book?

Wayan Siki and I Ketut Sudiana are the two onsite training therapists with the most experienced hands, who support the team by reviewing treatments and fine-tuning massages. Kim Rose Kneier offers a facial rejuvenation acupuncture session to lift, brighten and smooth.

What makes it different?

Location. Bali is one of those mysterious spiritual islands with seemingly magnetic qualities. The woman next to me on the plane was travelling from San Francisco, 30 hours of flying via Singapore, and she couldn’t have been happier about it. “I’d do double the flight to get here,” she smiled.

COMO Shambhala Estate knows its coordinates are a big draw, and the property plays to that strength. Other than the usual fare of flow yoga, pilates and hydrotherapy classes, there are guided walks through local villages, bike trips among the rice fields, picnics by holy water sources, temple offerings, and gratitude ceremonies in traditional dress. Underpinning all the holistic healing is a deep appreciation of the nature and culture here. When I ask the hotel’s general manager, Gede Suteja, why the Balinese believe this location – on a river bend surrounded by temples, shrines and ashrams – is special, he says: “We don’t believe this place is special. It is special.”

What else do they offer?

Postpone any inclination to fast here. Como Shambhala Cuisine is a brand of its own, using organic ingredients, often served raw or with speedy field-to-fork passage to retain goodness. Even the detox menu is delicious, its broths and Indonesian veggie dishes served in Kudus House, a century-old edifice of Javan hardwood. In the neighbouring restaurant Glow, the open kitchen prepares international dishes, offering unique takes on club sandwiches (avocado, sprouts, watercress), moussaka (aubergine, lentil, spinach) and pizza with a pumpkin and cashew nut crust. Best of all, you can breakfast like a king, starting with a shot of kimchi juice, with naturally fermented cabbage, apple, carrot, red pepper and radish ginger. There are flax seed crepes with cinnamon and maple cashews, coconut yoghurt pots with papaya, and chia pudding with mango and passionfruit.

Where do you stay?

Designed by Singapore-based architect Cheong Yew Kuan, formerly of Kerry Hill, with contemporary interiors by Koichiro Ikebuchi, the 30 suites, villas and residences are built in local stone and wood, and topped with traditional alang-alang roofing. The five expansive residences have shared areas and large pools to accommodate friends and families. Given the terrain, some of the accommodation is a good walk from the restaurant and spa, with flights of stone steps and steep trails. For those needing quicker access to the spa, the two closest villas are Taramala and Vasudara.

Anything else to mention?

This is more like a restorative holiday than a boot camp. I heard guests – who were mostly repeat couples from the US, Australia, Europe and Japan – order “very strong coffee” at breakfast and at dinner and ask, “What Australian reds do you have?” This just proves that they had their priorities right and understood that this is a refreshing holiday with inbuilt healthy choices.

Final word

COMO has three hotels in Bali. There’s one on the coast at Canggu, with its beach club and surf vibe. The second, Uma Ubud, is close to the centre of Ubud, an ideal spot from which to explore the twisting lanes of galleries and coffee shops. Either or both can serve as a stepping stone to the finale of being cocooned at COMO Shambhala Estate.

Healing Holidays (healingholidays.com/condenast; 020 7843 3592) can arrange a 7-night Integrated Wellness programme from £4,399 per person sharing, including transfers, full board accommodation and inclusions of the programme.