Destinations

The best hotels in Sri Lanka

From hideouts under jungle canopies to sprawling ultra-luxe, these are the prettiest places to call home for a short while
Gal Oya Lodge
Elise Hassey

Sri Lanka has had a rough ride at times – but this teardrop island has gone from strength to strength and is now back riding high as a sublime sunny destination. It’s as dynamic as it is diverse with alluring beaches, serene hill country and ancient ruins. There are also splendid national parks teeming with elephants, leopards and umpteen birds. However, it’s not just about the places. There are the people, too, who are super hospitable, kind and friendly. The delicious spice-laden food, topped off by a cup of famous Ceylon tea, seals the deal.

When it comes to places to stay, there are myriad options. There are many heritage homes and hotels, often sporting a tropical modernist look spearheaded by star Sri Lankan architect Geoffrey Bawa. But things are changing and the past few years have seen a handful of new hotels in Sri Lanka crop up, pushing the boundaries of hospitality and introducing another level of buzz to the country.

What is the best part of Sri Lanka to stay in?

Cosmopolitan capital Colombo is a quietly rising scene of stylish coffee shops, cool galleries and great shops. But you want to spend your time on the south coast, with its idyllic beaches, oceanfront café buzz and exceptionally warm weather. There are beautiful beachfront hotels, but equally good are the properties, a short tuk-tuk ride inland for a bit more peace. It’s tempting to stay close to Galle but continue around the coast to leopard-dense Yala National Park, which has fantastic lodges.

If you have time, combine the beach with the Hill Country, particularly Kandy, home to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, one of Buddhism's most sacred shrines. There’s the Cultural Triangle, too, in the centre of the island, which includes the extraordinary Sigiriya Rock, alongside a fascinating array of age-old monuments.

  • Villa Mine
    Matthieu Salvaing

    Villa Mine

    On a secluded hilltop a 15-minute drive inland from Galle, Villa Mine sleeps 10 amidst 9,000 square metres of cascading and beautifully landscaped green. Groves of mango, palm and rambutan merge seamlessly with the surrounding countryside, while the gradient allows for multiple vistas (the Indian Ocean from the peak; a private swimmable lake at the lowest point), and a series of artfully placed pavilions for living and dining screened from one another. On one side of the lake stands a dedicated bedroom pavilion with four air-conditioned rooms, where the king-sized four-poster beds, butterfly chairs and long verandas are wreathed in light tinted green by the surrounding foliage. An adjoining TV room facilitates movie nights or cravings for a Netflix binge. The fifth bedroom, a decadent king suite, with floor-to-ceiling windows, occupies the lower level of another pavilion that also houses a pool table. A long open-air dining room and open kitchen alongside the swimming pool make for convivial cocktail hours under the sculptural boughs of frangipani trees, and elaborate dinners of string hoppers, crab curry and fragrant sambols made to order by the house chef. The pace of life can be revved up by trading flip-flops for roller skates in the floodlit skatepark, showing off your Spotify playlist from the zany silver globe of the poolside DJ pod, a plummet into the lake from a diving spot 10 metres high, or an excursion to the picturesque fort ramparts, gemstone markets and lighthouse of Galle. Chandrahas Choudhury

    Address: Egodaha watta, Talpe 80615, Sri Lanka

  • W15 Hanthana

    W15 Hanthana

    The sound of chanting drifts across the valley from Sandagiri Maha Seya temple, its white dome stark against the green-covered hills – but beyond that, expect only silence and birdsong at W15 Hanthana, a former tea planter’s bungalow tastefully transformed into a 10-bedroom hotel. Reached via a vertiginous 20-minute drive from Kandy, on barely-there roads that wind through working tea plantations, the low-lying bungalow is like a tableau from a different time, its central living room fitted with a baby grand piano, overflowing library, writing desks and old advertisements for Tetley Tea. Barefoot butlers pad over dark-wood floors, an in-house naturalist offers guided walks, and the chef checks in every day to plan personalised meals that range from traditional Sri Lankan curries paired with mountains of fluffy rice, to seafood platters piled high with lobster, prawn and tuna. Gentle games of croquet and boules unfold on an expanse of lawn flanked by tennis courts and an infinity pool. Tempting as it is to curl up on one of the armchairs lining the deep-set wraparound veranda, or on the sofas set on the furthest edge of the property overlooking Kandy’s jagged mountains, W15 Hanthana is the perfect starting point for the Pekoe Trail, a new hiking route that snakes through 300km of hill country and hundreds of years of Sri Lankan history. Selina Denman

    Address: 947 Uduwela Road, Udugama West, Kandy 20000, Sri Lanka

  • Atheeq Ifthikar

    Myla Beach Villa

    Myla Beach Villa sits on an expansive stretch of sand just north of the historic fort city of Galle. Sleeping eight, the two-storey house, which eyes the water, has all the hallmarks of a beguiling tropical retreat – curving coconut palms stake out the beach- front swimming pool, teak furniture provides the ideal pew for sunset watching, a dining pavilion, bar and wide verandas are suited to late nights al fresco. Everywhere else, there are whirring ceiling fans and chalky walls. Dancing, white-tipped, aquamarine surf is reflected in the living room’s wide patio doors; and the sound of the sea is inescapable. Inside, rooms are spacious, with restored antiques and handmade tiling providing a definitive sense of place. The villa is well staffed, with a talented chef and support team for housekeeping, 24/7 security and a concierge service to boot, via the Eden Villas app; fancy a yoga lesson, an in-villa spa treatment, or even a local temple blessing? Consider it done. Further afield, the options multiply with surfing lessons, paddy field cycling, catamaran sailing or whale watching. Clare Dight

    Address: Rathgama, Sri Lanka

  • Matthieu Salvaing

    Kayaam House

    A few small hotels sit on this scimitar of Sri Lankan coastline, but thankfully there is no scene – no shacks, no bars and no watersports. All that is about 30 minutes away in Tangalle. What you get instead is 1.5 kilometres of unspoilt beach. Overlooking the pristine sand and rushing sea, in true tropical modernist style, Kayaam House breathes through its wide open spaces. Large white walls hold up a brown tiled roof and, inside, sand brown and Persian blue complete the palette. All around are nods to Sri Lanka’s heritage – antiques of Dutch and Portuguese vintage, a door from an ancient temple in Jaffna, sleepers from a rail track somewhere. An ambalam – a breezy, wall-free shelter with a thatched roof – serves as a yoga shala that catches the sights and sounds from the sea. There are six ocean-facing rooms, all tastefully done, though we’d pick the ones upstairs for greater privacy. Two Palm Suites overlook the mangroves – the one with the private open-to-sky Jacuzzi and sun loungers is what honeymooners will love. For families, there is the two-bedroom Palm Residence downstairs, which comes with a living room, a loft fit for young adults, and its own garden and Jacuzzi. An Ayurvedic spa with three treatment rooms completes the promise of a gentle, buzz-free, meditative stay. At meal time, which is practically whenever you like, there is no fixed menu – you are at the mercy of the chefs, and they set out to impress with an inventiveness that defies style and cuisine. Don’t miss the buffalo curd and treacle – a local breakfast delicacy – and the cardamom-flavoured coconut pudding. Salil Deshpande

    Address: Rekawa, Wellodeya Rd, Sri Lanka

  • Matthieu Salvaing

    Claughton House

    This hilltop villa near Dikwella, complete with chef and butler, is a fine example of a very Sri Lankan vision of built space and beauty. Designed in the 1980s by Sri Lanka’s pre-eminent architect Geoffrey Bawa, it binds land and sea, indoors and outdoors, into a harmonious whole. The land-facing driveway snakes up to the red-roofed, light-filled house, set on the highest point of the property’s three hectares. All five bedrooms come with air conditioning and en-suite bathrooms; three overlook the sea and open onto private courtyards. From here to the blue water is a bit of Bawa magic. Small pavilions open onto a carpet of green grass leading down to the ocean. On the way are coconut trees placed strategically like chess pieces, little nooks with benches and hammocks for reading or dreaming, and a ghat-like L-shaped staircase descending into a tree-shaded pool cut into the cliff. At sea level, a cluster of wild almond trees leads out onto Kudawella Bay, a long arc of private beach. Chef Ajith serves up Sri Lankan and western repasts on the long dining table, sunset barbecues by the pool and cooking classes should you seek to take home the secrets of a fine curry. A yoga shala, massage room and banyan-shaded Buddhist monastery offer paths to peace and well-being; and at night, fire-breathing Kandyan dancers drum up a storm. CC

    Address: Dikwella, Sri Lanka

  • Elise Hassey

    Gal Oya Lodge

    For remote adventures

    Gal Oya National Park may be lesser known than Yala but the magic here is that the wildlife is thrillingly untouched. Spy crocodiles, turtles and swimming elephants on boat safaris. Walk through the forest guided by members of the indigenous Vedda community. Then bed down in remote Gal Oya Lodge. Scattered among the bush, there are nine teak bungalows and a family villa, constructed by village craftsmen, complete with grass roofs. Each has a kingsize bed and its own living room with a private veranda. An alfresco bathroom gets you ever closer to nature. The airy A-framed restaurant, with its panorama of Monkey Mountain (a hardcore trek but worth it), serves Western and Sri Lankan cuisine. Each dish uses seasonal produce, some home-grown, others from local farmers – try the fish fillets cooked with lemongrass and local herbs in a banana leaf. For downtime, there’s a swimming pool, board games and field guides to read, plus nerd yourself out in the wildlife research station. Harriet Compston

    Address: Gal Oya Lodge, B527, Sri Lanka

  • Jiri Lizler

    Kahanda Kanda

    For serious style

    People rave about this peaceful bolthole set on a 12-acre working tea estate, overlooking Koggala Lake. And for good reason. Kahanda Kanda was once the private villa of owner George Cooper, a British interior designer, there are now 12 art and antique-filled villas (seven have pools) with four-poster beds, rattan couches, window seat daybeds, English china and piles of books. Book Hibiscus for the best views. The monotone-decorated dining pavilion is open to the elements. It serves an excellent daily changing menu of fusion food with a strong Thai influence, from tomato and basil galettes to Thai-inspired chicken seasoned with kaffir limes and lemongrass and baked in a banana leaf. Keep yourself fit by being put through your paces by the hotel’s personal trainer, flop in the spa or pluck a book from the library. The infinity pool drops off towards Koggala Lake – but the sister hotel KK Beach is five miles away and the perfect spot for swimming. HC

    Address: Kahanda Kanda Galle, Angulugaha 80122, Sri Lanka

  • Sandun de Silva

    Fort Bazaar

    For Middle Eastern chic

    Teardrop Hotels’ Fort Bazaar, bang in the centre of town, has always been one of the leading lights in the 17th-century fort town of Galle. The former home of a spice merchant, they have drawn upon the fort’s Moorish roots which means it’s Middle Eastern-inspired interiors here, awash with handmade tiles, Moroccan lanterns, mosaic cushions and pouffes. Set around a pretty cobbled courtyard, the 18 rooms are sleek and sophisticated (ask for one of the three upper-floor suites – much larger with fort-view terraces.). The Church Street Social is a buzzy local hangout. Smiley staff serve up superb tapas and sharing platters of traditional Moroccan, Turkish and Middle Eastern cuisine in between Sri Lankan food (they do an excellent lagoon crab salad). Work it off with a stroll around Galle (lovely both day and night). There’s an enticing Bali-inspired spa, using locally-made products, to unwind in, too. HC

    Address: Fort Bazaar, 26 Church St, Galle, Sri Lanka

  • Nomadic Resorts

    Wild Coast Tented Lodge

    For a wildlife fix

    The leopard spotting in Yala National Park is guaranteed to thrill – but so is Resplendent Ceylon’s chic safari lodge Wild Coast Tented Lodge on the fringes of the park, overlooking the Indian Ocean. Scattered among the bushland, there are 28 cocoon-like soaring canvas tents, some with private watering holes, others with plunge pools, plus eight urchin tents for little ones. Inside, there are four-poster beds, campaign furniture and freestanding copper bathtubs. They’ve nailed the tech, too, with a sound system, fast WiFi, and even Netflix can stream seamlessly. The bamboo-ceiling bar serves up both a contemporary take on traditional Sri Lankan and international cuisine (they do a mean ribeye steak). Join one of the super-knowledgeable in-house naturalists on a drive to spot leopards, sloth ears and elephants. Back at base, tufted grey langur monkeys swing from tree to tree. Stay up late and see elephants trumpeting on the beach and perhaps dipping their trunks in one of the private plunge pools. HC

    Address: Wild Coast Tented Lodge - Relais & Chateaux, Wild Coast Tented Lodge Palatupana, Yala, Sri Lanka

  • Aman

    Amangalla

    For stepping back in time

    This 300-year-old grand dame is a Galle landmark. Formerly the New Oriental Hotel, which for over a century attracted steamship passengers from across the world, Amangalla has been sensitively updated, blending original features, rattan furniture and contemporary touches. There are 29 classically-beautiful bedrooms with original wooden floors, high-sash windows and four-poster beds. Book either Suite 8 or 14 in the Church Street Wing and enjoy spectacular sea views. The Baths Spa offers a soothing range of massages, reflexology and scrubs, personalised by the resident Ayurvedic physician. There’s also yoga in the luscious gardens and a lovely courtyard swimming pool. Restaurant Zaal, in the magnificent Great Hall with its vast antique mirrors, is formal but it’s worth donning your best for the exceptional food. They do a superb roast chicken with all the trimmings. The books in the library will give you all you need to know about Galle – alternatively, ask your butler for a personalised tour of the fort. HC

    Address: Amangalla, 10 Church St, Galle 80000, Sri Lanka

  • Lunuganga

    For a solid dose of history

    Architect Geoffrey Bawa, the ‘father of Tropical Modernism’, transformed the design landscape of Sri Lanka. You can experience his genius at his own estate Lunuganga, just inland from the beach resort of Bentota. Set in 12 acres, deep in the forest, this white 1930s bungalow, which Bawa spent 40 years perfecting, is still pretty much as he left it. Now managed by Teardrop Hotels, in partnership with the Geoffrey Bawa Trust, there are nine spacious suites, some in ‘outdoor rooms’, built to house Bawa’s architectural assistants. Each is dotted around the property, showcasing the architect’s objets d’art collected from his travels (spot the sculpture of Roman emperor Augustus). Book Bawa’s own bedroom, with its dipping pool in a private courtyard. Along the glorious gardens, butterfly-shaped ponds sit by emerald rice paddies and fragrant frangipani trees. Moss-covered Chinese Ming jars decorate the fields. The kitchen whips up a plethora of flavoursome plates. The rice and curry is particularly good, served outdoors on the terrace, with sweeping views of Dedduwa Lake. HC

    Address: Lunuganga Geoffrey Bawa’s Country Estate, Dedduwa, Bentota 80500, Sri Lanka

  • Malabar Hill

    For knockout views

    The ocean-facing hilltop wonder of Malabar Hill in Weligama only opened in November 2021, but it’s already making its mark. Formerly a cinnamon plantation, friends Dominic Scriven and Lawson Johnston have transformed it into a magical sanctuary, combining Indian-inspired architecture, Middle Eastern interiors and Sri Lankan craftsmanship. There are 14 freestanding villas tucked away in the jungle, featuring teak furniture, Rajasthani mirrors and private terraces with plunge pools and jaw-dropping views. Ornithophiles will love the Wetland Sanctuary Pool Villa with its conspiracy of birds to spot, in between purple-faced langurs swinging through the trees. In panoramic restaurant Hill House, Cordon Bleu-trained chef Roshini’s splendid menu makes full use of local ingredients – breakfast on buffalo curd milked just a hop away, feast on fiery chickpea curry for lunch and savour a dinner of the morning’s line-caught catch straight from the sea. Brilliant beaches are a short drive away, although you can splash and sunbathe at the blissful infinity pool here. HC

    Address: Malabar Hill Sri Lanka, Palalla - Borala Road, Weligama, Sri Lanka

  • Sandun de Silva

    Nine Skies

    For outdoorsy types

    Ella is arguably pretty much everyone’s favourite Hill Country village. So, it’s brilliant that Teardrop Hotels have a beautifully-refurbished tea bungalow nearby. Sitting on a working tea estate in the town of Demodara, Nine Skies is a throwback to colonial days, mixed with a solid bit of mid-century and contemporary. The five spacious bedrooms have custom-designed four-poster beds, claw-foot baths, rattan tables (marked out for carrom – a form of finger billiards) and private verandas. Revel in the spellbinding views, including the famous Demodara Loop with its train chugging by. Families will love the interconnecting rooms Nine Skies and Hali-Ela. The service is also second to none. Days whizz by sunbathing beside the infinity pool, relaxing in the garden or playing board games in the library. There are plenty of walks – head to the iconic Nine Arches Bridges. Borrow wellies if it’s muddy. In the evening, settle down for a sundowner beside the log fire, followed by a hearty meal of Sri Lankan plates. HC

    Address: Nine Skies, Nine Skies Bungalow, Demodara 90080, Sri Lanka

  • Aman

    Amanwella

    For beach bunnies

    It’s the pristine beachfront setting here which steals the show and makes Amanwella one of the most spectacular hotels in Sri Lanka – expect a mesmerising swathe of silky sand, fringed with palm trees. But there’s plenty else to fall in love with at this tropical modernist resort, near the seaside town of Tangalle. Dotted on a hillside, the 27 clean-lined, super spacious freestanding suites sing of contemporary cool. Each has a private pool and floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors maxing out the views. Ask for Ocean Suites 110, 111 and 112, which are nearest to the beach. The pavilion-style restaurant makes full use of the panorama – basking in ocean vistas while relishing the Asian fusion cuisine, made with local produce such as just-caught barramundi. Or tuck into fresh salads at their feet-in-the-sand beach club. There’s a beautiful library filled with games and books, and a huge infinity pool. But most people gravitate to the idyllic beaches with soft warm water. HC

    Address: Amanwella, Bodhi Mawatha, Godellawela 82200, Sri Lanka

  • Sebastian Posingis

    Ceylon Tea Trails

    For peace and quiet

    Set in five beautifully restored bungalows, Resplendent Ceylon’s inspired collection of 27 suites, deep in the Hill Country’s Bogawantalawa Valley, offer the best of everything. There’s the make-yourself-at-home vibe, exquisitely scenic setting, incredible cuisine and on-it local staff. Couple that with the never-ending view of rolling tea plantations, interrupted only by glistening Castlereagh Lake, its banks home to three of the bungalows. The other two – Norwood and Tientsin – are 15 minutes and 30 minutes away (both have massive gardens). Each bungalow has an eclectic colonial look – timber ceilings, mahogany antiques, chintz armchairs and clawfoot baths – and comes with a household of staff. Spend your days exploring the walking trails – a tour with veteran tea planter Bernard is also a must. There’s also croquet or curl up beside the fire in the panelled library with a good book. The food is Michelin-star standard (particularly the mushroom soup with vanilla rose tea essence) and ask to dine in the lakeside summerhouse – magical. HC

    Address: Ceylon Tea Trails, Dunkeld Estate, Hatton, 22000 Hatton, Sri Lanka

  • Ed Norton

    Palm Hotel

    For Shoreditch cool in the tropics

    Palm hotel, a bold boutique hideout, brings something different to the coast. It is founded by East Londoners Laurie Spencer and Miriam Haniffa, who decided to up sticks and snap up a coconut grove, just inland from the soulful surf spot of Ahangama. The design is ground-breaking, inspired by a mingle of Geoffrey Bawa’s work, vintage travel and Shoreditch warehouses conversations. There’s an enthusiastic dose of repurposing, too – Palm’s CrossFit equipment comes from a now-closed Shoreditch gym. Partly constructed from shipping containers, the result is a collection of roomy A-frame cabanas with glass-fronted facades, housing eight suites. The cool concrete interiors feature king-sized beds, locally-crafted cane furniture and floor-to-ceiling windows. In the dining pavilion, Brit Emily Dobbs uses garden-grown or locally sourced produce to create Lankan-flavoured dishes (the coconut affogato is amazing). The Karapincha (curry leaf) G&T is a perfect kickstart to the evening. Beaches are a 10-minute tuk-tuk ride away, although it’s hard to drag yourself from the hammock-filled garden. HC

    Address: Palm Hotel Sri Lanka, Nakanda, Galkadanduwa, Ahangama, Sri Lanka

  • Kandy House

    For loved-up couples

    A 20-minute drive from Kandy, surrounded by thick jungle, this 200-year-old white-arched palazzo is a favourite of honeymooners thanks to its over-12s policy and nine huge bedrooms, particularly Black Rajah with its granite octagonal tub-for-two and private terrace. The four largest Ultra rooms also come with a butler. Either way, all of the bedrooms, placed around a central courtyard, hit the right note. Service is spot-on, and staff are a fount of local knowledge. The restaurant, overlooking the croquet lawn, uses ingredients from the local market – don’t miss the feast of ten traditional Sri Lankan curries, served twice a week. Enjoy an arrack sour in the Art Deco bar beforehand. Work up an appetite with a bicycle ride, do laps in the large infinity pool surrounded by paddy fields, or stretch out with yoga while colourful parrots dart from tree to tree. HC

    Address: The Kandy House, Amunugama Waluwa, Gunnepana, Kandy 20270, Sri Lanka

  • Owl and the Pussycat Hotel

    For all-out fun

    Named after the Edward Lear poem, this beachfront jewel is a joy through and through in Talpe, near Galle. Running across four colour-popping buildings filled with funky art, the 17 quirky shabby-chic rooms are boldly hued with one-off furniture. Sunseekers should go for one of the Suite Melodies rooms with its generous terrace. During the day, the open-air wellness pavilion is a gorgeous spot for a massage on the fringes of the beach. But leave time to walk the few minutes along the sand to an array of heavenly beaches. Stop at Dalawella, where large turtles wallow in the shallows. Back at the hotel, enjoy a cocktail in the dreamy beach shack, then tuck into crab in the Botanik restaurant, where friendly staff serve both Sri Lankan and Western dishes. Go at the weekend for live jazz. Finish off the night in the pattern-tastic Edward Lear Drawing Room, where there’s an inspired selection of books, eclectic artefacts to peer at and board games to thrash out. HC

    Address: Owl and the Pussycat Hotel, N.788, 788 Matara Road, Talpe, Sri Lanka

  • Sandun de Silva

    Tintagel

    For design buffs

    Style maestro Udayshanth Fernando set hearts racing when he transformed this majestic 1930s heritage home into the eclectic Tintagel, just around the corner from his Colombo design hotspot Paradise Road. Channelling the same masculine, monochrome aesthetic as his emporium, he has filled the space to its high-ceilinged brim with Baccarat chandeliers, Chinese wedding cabinets, black lacquer table-tops from Vietnam and Burmese art. Leather-bound classics pack the library while six Sri Lankan life-size statues flank the pool. The chicness continues into the 10 soft-hued striped bedrooms, decked out with deeply comfortable modernist steel beds and mosaic-clad bathrooms. The Dining Room, with its trompe l'oeil marble pillars, and the twinkly Courtyard restaurant serve a diverse menu, from mushroom ravioli with burrata to Sri Lankan black pork curry with dhal. They are also known for their outrageously good desserts – go for the sticky toffee bread and butter pudding vanilla panna cotta. HC

    Address: Tintagel Colombo, 65 Rosmead Pl, Colombo 00700, Sri Lanka

  • Sandun de Silva

    Water Garden Sigiriya

    For family adventures

    Geoffrey Bawa’s protégé Channa Daswatte is the man behind the design of Water Garden Sigiriya, which means this aquatic-landscaped resort is as good-looking as it gets. Overlooking the ancient rock fortress of Sigiriya, one of Sri Lanka’s eight World Heritage Sites, and surrounded by rice paddies, the 30 freestanding light-filled villas (many with private pools) are flanked by winding waterways, mirroring Sigiriya’s 2,000-year-old water gardens. The deluxe twin villa is perfect for families, with two bedrooms and a good-sized private plunge pool. And that’s the thing about this place; it’s vast, allowing plenty of space for children to let off steam in. There’s also a spa, gym and massive swimming pool plus a children’s pool. Food options abound – particularly the excellent Sri Lankan offering (choose the crab bisque with roasted coconut). As the day ends, saunter past a muster of peacocks to the twin-level bar for sunset views over Sigirya. HC

    Address: Water Garden Sigiriya, Indigaswewa, Sigiriya 21120, Sri Lanka

    A version of this article originally appeared on Condé Nast Traveller UK.