It’s 2022, and for the first time kinda ever, hair brands are finally paying attention to—and catering to—the multitude of hair types that exist in the world. Got straight hair that poofs instead of waves? There’s a product for that. Got tight curls that won’t stop breaking or looking frizzy? Oh, hey, here’s an entire drugstore aisle for that.
And though I’m personally very excited about the current hair revolution, I’m also aware that all of this new information and hair-typing jargon can also be overwhelming, especially when no two hair types are the same, and there’s also no universally correct hair product, routine, or really even classification system that applies to every hair type in the entire world. Womp.
That being said, enthusiasts and hairstylists (ahem, Andre Walker, the father of hair-typing) have managed to distill all the hair types into four very broad, very general categories over the decades—straight, wavy, curly, and coily—in an effort to help you figure out how to take care of and style your hair with the least frustration. Keep reading to see how to work with exactly what you've got.
What are the 4 types of hair?
According to the hair-typing system, there are four main (and very broad!) groups of hair. Here's the basic rundown of the categories:
- Type 1 hair = straight hair
- Type 2 hair = wavy hair
- Type 3 hair = curly hair
- Type 4 hair = coily hair
Each category also has three a, b, and c subcategories (ex: 3a, 3b, 3c, or 4a, 4b, 4c) that breaks down each hair type even further. And if it sounds confusing, just trust the process, because I've gotchu covered with all the facts and product recommendations below.
How do I know my hair type?
Okay, this is going to sound obvious, but the only way to really know your hair type is by lookin' at a ton of pictures and charts, like the one we created above. It's important to remember that most people do not have just one type of hair—my curls, for example, are a mix of type-2 waves and type-3 curls naturally.
Sure, I can use an in-depth styling routine to make my curls spring up tighter and look uniformly type 3, but without any products, styling, or diffusing, my hair naturally dries into loose curls (I classify my hair as 2c/3a, FWIW—more on wtf that means below). So when it comes to figuring out your own hair type, look at your hair in its natural state, without products or styling, and then compare to the chart above.
Now let's get into to what each hair type really means. Right this way, pls.
TYPE 1: Straight hair
Straight hair can range from thin and silky to thick and poofy. But one thing all straight hair types have in common? That megawatt shine, thanks to the fact that the oil from your scalp can easily slip and slide down the lengths of your strands to keep them moisturized and healthy. Though some hair critics argue there's only one type of straight hair (ahem, straight), I'm of the belief there's a spectrum of textures out there. Let's break 'em down, shall we?
Type 1a
1a hair types tend to be the flattest, thinnest, and silkiest of the straight hair types. Keeping a bobby-pin or an elastic from sliding out of your straight hair requires magical powers. Your BFF: texturizing spray.
Type 1b
1b hair types are still super straight, but also have some bends and a few coarser strands. Your biggest enemy is likely greasy roots, rather than puffiness and/or dry ends. Your BFF: dry shampoo.
Type 1c
1c hair types are thicker and coarser, which means they're also more prone to frizz, poofiness, and dryness. If your straight hair is also damaged (hi, chemical, color, and heat treatments), you’ll likely fall into the 1c type. Your BFF: weekly hair masks.
Best products for type 1 straight hair
TYPE 2: Wavy hair
Wavy hair tends to have definitive—and multiple—bends from roots to tips. Meaning if your hair has “just, like, one or two weird bumps” in it, you’re probably working with type 1 straight hair, versus true, type 2 wavy hair. Type 2 waves can range from perfect-looking beachy waves to fluffy, undefined bends and bumps, and they're also one of the most easy-to-play-with hair types (lucky you!).
Type 2a
Unlike with 1c hair, 2a hair types have a flat S-shape pattern that gives them their wave. 2a hair tends to be finer and flatter than any of the other type 2s, and can be easily blown out and straightened. Your BFF: sea-salt sprays to encourage your natural wave.
Type 2b
2b hair types tend to have slightly more defined S-shape waves—usually with a fine and/or medium thickness—and are a bit more prone to frizz and poofing, especially if your hair is damaged. Your BFF: a wave-enhancing mousse.
Type 2c
2c hair types are still mostly S-shaped waves, but they can also have a few loose curls and coarser textures mixed in (since they're right on the edge of type 3 curls). 2c waves tend to frizz easily and loose definition fast. Your BFF: a lightweight curl cream.
Best products for type 2 wavy hair
Ouai Air Dry Foam
TYPE 3: Curly hair
In order for you to be part of the curly-hair club, your hair has to have actual curls—i.e., pieces that curl around themselves like a spring, versus pieces that just wave back and forth in a flat S-shape. It’s common—and likely—to have a mix of curl textures (and even some waves!) on your head at once.
Type 3a
Unlike 2c hair, which has mostly waves and a few loose curls, 3a hair is mostly loose curls with just a few waves. 3a curls tend to be finer, easily blown out, and super reactive to the elements (humidity! Wind! Dryness!). Your BFF: a curl-enhancing mousse.
Type 3b
3b hair types usually have curls that are the circumference of your finger or a marker. These curls are springier and tighter than 3a curls, but they’re also more prone to dryness and frizz. Your BFF: a leave-in conditioner.
Type 3c
3c curls are noticeably tighter than 3b curls—think the size of a straw or pencil—and are thickly packed together, giving your hair major volume. They’re also the most prone to dryness and breakage of the type 3 curls. Your BFF: a moisturizing hair oil.
Best products for type 3 curls
Pattern Leave-In Conditioner
Bread Beauty Supply Mini Everyday Hair Gloss Oil
TYPE 4: Coily hair
Coily hair (also referred to across the interwebs as "kinky-curly" or "zigzag" or sometimes just "natural"), can have a mix of textures that range from a tightly coiled, spring-like pattern (S-shape) to a zigzag pattern that doesn’t actually curl around itself (Z-shape). Because of their kinks and angles, scalp oils can’t easily lubricate your hair strands, making type 4 hair the most fragile, dry, and damage-prone of all hair types—BUT also the most versatile to styling.
Type 4a
4a hair has the tightest, smallest coils—often mixed with some 3c curls—that can just barely wrap around a crochet needle. Your coils can lose definition and moisture fast, which means your BFF for 4a hairstyles? A curl gel for finger-coiling.
Type 4b
Rather than curling or coiling around itself, 4b (and c!) hair bends in a sharp, zigzag shape that has the circumference of a spring in a ballpoint pen. 4b hair is more prone to shrinkage and dryness than 4a, so keep hair moisturized and defined with your new BFF, an elongating gel.
Type 4c
4c hair has a Z-shape pattern that's way tighter than 4b hair, and it also naturally has fewer cuticle layers than any other hair type (FYI: The cuticle retains hydration and protects hair from damage), meaning it needs moisture, moisture, and more moisture. Your BFF for 4c hairstyles: an emollient-rich cream.
Best products for type 4 coils
Chloe Metzger is the deputy beauty director at Cosmopolitan, overseeing the editorial content and growth strategy of the hair, makeup, and skin space on digital, while also obsessively writing about the best hair products for every hair type (curly girl here; whattup), and the skincare routines that really, truly work (follow her on Instagram to see behind-the-scenes pics of that magazine life). She brings nearly a decade of writing and editing expertise, and her work has appeared in Allure, Health, Fitness, Marie Claire, StyleCaster, and Parents. She also has an unhealthy adoration for Tom Hanks and would like to please meet him one day, if you could arrange that. Thanks.
