There was a time not too long ago when I couldn’t imagine rocking my beautiful Afro as loudly and proudly as I do now. Especially in professional settings—I spent years heat-straightening my hair to bend to society’s annoyingly narrow beauty standards and to simply fit in with my white colleagues. And, honestly, because I just didn’t want to deal with all the “Wow, can I touch it?”s. Even now, with my hair in its full glory, I’m often dodging unwelcome touching (Alexa, play Solange’s “Don’t Touch My Hair”).
It’s a reality many people of color must navigate—even the most notable among us. Former First Lady Michelle Obama recently admitted, while donning a set of fabulous box braids on her book tour, that she could have never worn the protective hairstyle while in the White House. Americans just weren’t ready for that level of realness, she said, as they were “getting adjusted” to having a Black First Family.
But here’s the thing: While playing into respectability politics is (super) maddening, it’s also an act of survival. There are currently 30 states in this country that provide no legal protection against discriminatory regulations about how Black people can and cannot wear their hair. In these places, it’s perfectly legal for workplaces, schools, and other businesses to ban styles like locs and Bantu knots and to punish people for the way their hair naturally grows out of their head. Remember the high school wrestler in New Jersey who cut off his locs to avoid having to forfeit his match? The 11-year-old girl in Louisiana who was sent home from school because of her braided hair extensions? The TV news anchor in Mississippi who was told her natural hair was “unprofessional”?
A solution to this insanity is the Creating a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair Act, or the CROWN Act, a bill that prohibits discrimination based on hair texture and protective styles commonly associated with race. It was developed four years ago by then-California state senator Holly J. Mitchell and the beauty company Dove.
“Our strategy and commitment is to change laws but also change culture and how people see Black hair and hairstyles,” says Lauren Baker, CROWN brand engagement lead at Dove. Baker and Esi Eggleston Bracey, president of Unilever USA (Unilever is Dove’s parent company), help oversee the CROWN Coalition, a community of 100+ groups dedicated to the advancement of anti-discrimination legislation across the country.
So far, 20 states, including New York, Virginia, and Nevada, have passed the CROWN Act or a version of it. In December, the bill made it to the U.S. Senate floor, where it was blocked from passage, despite the House of Representatives having already passed it in March 2022 with bipartisan support. (Detractors claim passing the bill could make workers “less safe.” Yes, this is something an actual elected official said.)
The coalition isn’t giving up. And its mission doesn’t stop with the CROWN Act. The Dove team recently partnered with LinkedIn to create more inclusive and equitable spaces for Black hair in the workplace, with a goal of educating 1 million hiring managers and professionals by the end of 2023. “Race-based hair discrimination perpetuates income gaps, which in turn limits access to economic progress and prosperity for Black citizens,” explains Orlena Nwokah Blanchard, president and COO of Joy Collective, a polycultural marketing firm that helped architect the CROWN Act movement.
Considering the amount of time I’ve spent agonizing over whether I should wear my natural hair to an interview, this conversation is long overdue. Please join me in signing the CROWN Coalition petition and emailing state and federal legislators. Let’s use our collective power to remind the world we mean business—and should be able to do business regardless of how our hair looks.
Oh, and if anyone is ever confused about how to approach the topic of Black hair, here’s a quick rundown: Adoration is appreciated, but petting, politicizing, and policing is not. Now, excuse me while I go readjust my crown.
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Julee Wilson is Beauty Editor at Large at Cosmopolitan. Previously, Julee was Beauty Director at Cosmo and Global Beauty Director at Essence and has held various editorial positions at Huffington Post and Real Simple. She counts herself lucky AF that she gets to play with beauty products for a living and tell dope stories. And if you’re as obsessed with beauty as she is, make sure to follow her on Instagram for plenty of product recs, natural hair inspo, skincare testing, and Black girl magic shenanigans.