Surfing Life

DIARY OF AN INDO FERAL

Beyond the Propaganda Machine

Nobody knows who they are in their teens, but I had a thirst for knowledge and experience. You can always learn so much from listening to someone else tell their story, and failure is an especially good teacher. You gotta go experience it for yourself and throw yourself into the fire.

You’re not raised being told how much propaganda is being fed to you. That is, the system is a machine that you’re supposed to be a part of and contribute to, so society can run as a whole. I guess that’s the draw for somewhere like Indo. It’s the wild west. There’s corruption on every level so it’s almost fairer. If a guy wants to rip you off for a bowl of noodles and the president wants to rip you off, it’s like, alright, fair game. Everyone is in it for the same reasons. We’ll just play the game; the barter system and trade. You can paddle out to an Indo fishing boat with supplies and trade them. We’d do that sometimes, paddle out with rice and water and trade for a free ride to another wave. You definitely gotta think quick and Indo really teaches you to think fast when

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