making waves

When Lisette Williams was a teenager, the last thing she wanted to do on summer mornings was join her mother, Caroline Hunter, for a swim in the chilly waters of the Atlantic Ocean. But a few years later, when Lisette finally tagged along, she realized she had been missing much more than an invigorating dip. Caroline is a longtime member of the Polar Bears of Martha’s Vineyard, a historically Black swim and social club that has been gathering on Inkwell Beach, on the northeast tip of the island, for more than half a century.

For decades, the Polar Bears have kicked off their season on July 4, coming together on the beach for a breakfast potluck to reconnect with old friends and welcome new ones. But first, at 7:30 a.m., they all make their way to the water, either to swim laps between two jetties or to exercise in the shallows (some, like Caroline, grew up during segregation and never learned to swim). After some time in the water, the exercise group forms a circle. Newcomers move to the center, where they introduce themselves and are greeted with hugs. Back on the beach, everyone sings a rousing rendition