Prime Time
IF YOU SIT AT THE BAR AT HOLU, YOUR EYES WILL BE DRAWN TO A bank of meat lockers taking up one wall. Prime rib eyes and New York strips dry-age inside them, and a massive bluefin tuna loin hangs from hooks. Above the lockers a message inscribed on slate stands sentry along the length of the wall: “Aging Enrich the Flavour of Life. Wine Intoxicate the Soul.”
My eyes keep going back to these ghostly hunks of cow and the curious tag-line as we spend a good half hour at the bar, waiting for the occupants of our reserved table to skedaddle. Surprisingly great cocktails made by
