The blast of a horn and an outstretched hand beckons us towards the tuk-tuk door. It's Naseem, our city guide on three wheels. We jump in and she expertly manoeuvres her electric vehicle around Charminar, Hyderabad's imposing landmark.
An impressive four-columned, 56m-high structure dating from the 15th century, the city symbol is the location of crowded night markets, traffic relentlessly swirling around its magical minarets and arches. Amazingly we find our fellow travellers amid the colourful chaos and head back to the hotel. We plan to leave early tomorrow to avoid the city peak hour, to allow us time to become accustomed to our newly rented Royal Enfields. Brimming with confidence and determination, Naseem engages briefly with the local vendors then heads back into the traffic to seek another fare. You'd never guess she only learnt to drive six months ago.
We've come from various countries – France, USA, Thailand, Singapore, Australia. We share a passion for riding combined with a determination to listen and learn from local women, to understand their motivations for learning to ride, and to support local livelihoods where we can. We're the guests of two empowering social enterprises focused on expanding life opportunities of women through mobility: MOWO (Moving Women) based in Hyderabad, India, and FreeW (Two Wheels to Free Will)