Scenes in the Hawaiian Islands and California

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California, by Mary Evarts Anderson

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Title: Scenes in the Hawaiian Islands and California

Author: Mary Evarts Anderson

Release Date: February 9, 2009 [EBook #28034]

Language: English

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SCENES

IN THE

HAWAIIAN ISLANDS

AND

CALIFORNIA.

BY MARY E. ANDERSON.

The isles shall wait upon me, and on mine arm shall they trust.

Isaiah II. 5.

BOSTON:

THE AMERICAN TRACT SOCIETY.

Instituted 1814.

DEPOSITORIES, 28 CORNHILL, BOSTON,

AND 13 BIBLE HOUSE, ASTOR PLACE, NEW YORK.

Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1865, by

THE AMERICAN TRACT SOCIETY,

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts.

Cornhill Press:

Dakin and Metcalf,

Boston.

NOTE BY THE PUBLISHERS.

In the year 1863, Rev. Rufus Anderson, D. D., senior Secretary of the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions, visited the Hawaiian Islands on official business connected with the missionary work of that institution. He was accompanied, in that visit, by his wife and daughter, the latter of whom preserved some memoranda of the journey and the scenes to which it introduced her, for the gratification of her friends. From these notes the present volume has been prepared. The interest which the friends of missions in this country have long cherished for that people—youngest born in the family of Christian nations—will lead them to welcome these unpretending sketches, as affording both instruction and entertainment to themselves and their children.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.—From New York to Aspinwall.

The Bargain.—Our Steamer and Staterooms.—A Schooner in a bad Place.—Porpoises.—Pirate Alabama. 9

CHAPTER II.—Isthmus of Darien.

Baggage.—Wreck.—Isthmus Toilets.—Aspinwall.—Tropical Scenery.—Huts. 17

CHAPTER III.—Panama.

Tiled Houses.—Emigrants.—Nice Lomonard.—First-Class Hotel.—Mud Pies and Clean Clothes.—Crabs.—Aquaria.—Borrowed Houses.—Cathedral.—At Anchor.—Toboga.—Accommodations.—Dessert. 24

CHAPTER IV.—From Panama to San Francisco.

A Rocket.—Acapulco.—On Shore.—Adobe Houses.—Market-Place.—No Breakfast.—Boys Diving.—Devil-Fish.—A real Sunday.—Manzanilla.—Golden Gate.—Baby Afloat.—Lives Lost.—Backbone of America.—Inspecting.—Baa.—Bill of Fare.—At the Wharf. 33

CHAPTER V.—San Francisco.

Lick House.—At Church.—Mission Dolores.—Street Cars.—A Ride.—Hills.—Surf.—Old Church and Burying-Ground.—The One Rose.—Good-bys.—Union Jack.—Dropped Down.—The Bar.—All Sails set.—Racks.—Rolls.—Bell Buoy. 45

CHAPTER VI.—Honolulu.

Desolation.—A Delightful Contrast.—Boats Alongside.—Hurrah!—Farewells and Greetings.—A Home on Shore.—Friends.—Cousins' Society.—Fairy-Land.—The Serenade.—Church Bells.—Native Church.—Native Industry, Liberality, and Perseverance.—Dress.—Aloha. 54

CHAPTER VII.—Honolulu continued.

A Dinner Party.—Punch Bowl.—An extinct Crater.—Taro Patches.—Ovens.—Poi and Raw Fish.—Fingers better than Spoons.—A Donation Party.—Prince William.—Tomb of the Kings.—Prayer-Meeting.—Examination.—A Green Rose.—Home Letters.—The Palace.—The Queen.—Riding in a Royal Carriage.—Horseback-Riding Party.—Native Women Riding.—Church.—Native Pews.—A Quarter of a Dollar. 64

CHAPTER VIII.—From Honolulu to Hilo.

Steamer's Deck.—Hair Decorations.—The Queen and her Suite.—The Queen's Guard.—Singular Accommodations.—Lahaina.—A Breakfast on Shore.—Kind Natives.—Cocoa-nuts.—Lessons in Hawaiian.—The King and his Greeting.—Where Captain Cook was killed.—Such Roads!—Dinner on Shore.—Orange-Trees.—Precipices.—Cascades.—Waipio.—Hilo.—Landing in the Surf.—Spiders. 76

CHAPTER IX.—The Volcano.

Gipsies.—Up Hill and Down.—Lame Horse.—An Accommodating Family.—House Inside and Outside.—A Lowly Table.—Prayers.—Calabashes.—Native Men.—Started again.—A Rain.—Gigantic Ferns.—Volcano House.—A Table again.—The Crater and its Wonders.—A Lake on Fire.—Lava.—Blow Hole.—There, there, a grand Chorus.—Aa.—Ohelo Berries. 86

CHAPTER X.—A Story about Kapiolani.

A Christian Princess.—A Heathen God insulted.—The True God worshiped.—Tabu.—A Gallop.—A Dingy Hut changed to a Fairy Bower.—Hard Riding.—Rest.—Departure.—Surf Boards. 97

CHAPTER XI.—Kau and Journey to Kaawaloa.

Waiohinu Boarding-School.—Familiar Hymns and Tunes.—Flower Wreaths and Wands.—Preaching to Foreigners.—Saddle-Bags.—Aa.—Pahoihoi.—Candle-Nut.—Rest at Night.—Tapa.—Arrival at Kaawaloa.—Kapiolani's House.—Bonaparte.—Kindness. 106

CHAPTER XII.—Kaawaloa.

City of Refuge.—Lava Falls.—Kaahumanu's Rock.—Great Chief.—Captain Cook.—Monthly Concert.—Cook's Death.—Meager Monuments.—Oranges.—Breadfruit.—Food.—Cockroaches.—Ants. 116

CHAPTER XIII.—Kailua.

Carriage Broken.—Cocoa-nut Milk.—Pilikia.—Maikai.—Prickly Pear.—Thorns.—Century Plant.—Wonder at the Carriage.—Fear of the Horses.—Donation.—Anniversary.—Communion.—Steamer arrived.—Carried by the Natives.—Children.—Arrival at Honoipu.—Ugly-Horse.—White Mule.—Showers.—Welcome. 127

CHAPTER XIV.—Kohala and Waimea.

Rain.—Large Shrubs.—Fruit.—Keika Wahine.—The Promised Land.—Enthusiastic Meeting.—Original Hymns.—Address by Timotao Nalanipo.—Shaking Hands. 137

CHAPTER XV.—Maui.

Horseback Journey from Waimea to Kowaihae.—A Heathen Temple.—Sacrifices.—Steamer.—A Storm of Sand.—A Deluge.—Gifts.—Singing.—Iao Valley.—Shelling.—Precipices.—A Novel Sketch.—The Needle.—War.—A Race.—Ravages of a Waterspout.—Sail in a Whale-Boat.—Lahaina from the Sea.—Lahainaluna.—Examination.—Generals.—Commencement.—Dinner. 150

CHAPTER XVI.—Lahaina—Kauai.

Ride.—Cocoa-nut Grove.—American Consul's House.—Sugar Mill and Making.—Dust.—Communion.—Singing old Tunes.—Exhibition.—Love Tokens.—At Honolulu again.—Calls on the Father and Sister of the King.—Annie Laurie.—Sea-Sickness.—Arrival at Kauai.—Princeville.—A Beautiful Bouquet.—View.—Journey.—A Fall from a Horse.—Lunch.—A Resting-Place.—A Bluff. 163

CHAPTER XVII.—Kauai and Oahu.

Flowers.—A Coach and Four.—Lassos.—Lihue.—Wailua Falls.—Koloa.—Spouting Horn.—Church.—A Large Cavalcade.—An Arid Place.—Waimea.—Old Jonah.—Sandboats and Forts on the Beach.—Garden.—Koloa again.—A Dinner.—Another Trip in the Annie Laurie.—A Salt Lake.—Ewa.—Lunch at Kahuku.—A pretty Bathing-Place.—Peacocks.—Idols. 174

CHAPTER XVIII.—Oahu.

Native Pastor.—Dinner.—Lassoing.—Falls of Ka Liuwaa.—The Canoe.—Kaneohe.—A Runaway.—The Pali.—Defeated Warriors.—Return to Honolulu.—Missionaries.—General Meeting.—Examination at Oahu College.—Exhibition.—Flags.—President's Levee.—Harmony.—Number of Converts.—Cousins' Meeting. 185

CHAPTER XIX.—Honolulu again.

General Meeting.—A Fine Garden.—Mangoes.—Apple-Tree.—Decorations for the Schoolhouse.—Cousins' Annual Meeting.—Laying the Burden down and Taking it up.—Lizards.—Scorpions and Centipedes.—Farewell Party.—Gifts.—A Donation Party.—Diamond Head.—Natives on Horseback.—Rat.—Ordination of Mr. H. H. Parker.—Candy-Pull.—Fourth of July.—An Oration.—A Picnic.—Farewell Address.—Aloha.—The Islands left behind. 197

CHAPTER XX.—Voyage to San Francisco.

Calms.—A Patient Captain.—All Serene.—Flying Fish.—Porpoises.—Whales.—Skip Jacks.—Peanuts.—Colored Water.—The Farallone Islands.—Birds, Seals, and Sea Lions.—A Train of Cars.—Golden Gate and Fort Point.—Alcatraces Island.—Arrival in San Francisco. 208

CHAPTER XXI.—California.

A Drive.—Seals.—Portuguese Men of War.—Little Birds.—Steamer Yo Semite.—Shipping.—St. Paul's Bay.—Suisun Bay.—Benicia.—Monte Diablo.—Sacramento River.—Arrival at Sacramento.—A Long Bridge.—Journey to Folsom.—Willow Springs Mines.—Fair Grounds.—High Prices.—A Ride around Sacramento.—Levees.—Two Floods.—New Capitol.—Warm Weather.—Departure.—A Slough.—Watermelon Seeds.—Oakland.—A Long Ride.—A Fine Orchard.—Nectarines and Apricots.—Sailing on the Golden Age.—Farewell. 217

CHAPTER XXII.—Homeward Bound.

At Sea again.—A Cozy Room.—A Choir.—Sermons.—Beautiful Evenings.—A Hurricane.—Dangers and Discomforts.—A Crash and Crashes.—My Father rules the Storm.—A Meeting for Thanksgiving.—Acapulco Harbor.—Arrival at Panama.—Articles for Sale.—Telegraph Posts.—Concrete.—The Flower of the Holy Ghost.—Matachin.—Iron Bridge.—Sensitive Plant.—Steamer Champion.—West India Islands.—A Privateer.—Gulf Stream.—Lighthouses.—At Anchor.—Our Voyage Ended.—A Hymn.—The Lord's Prayer in English and Hawaiian. 227

The Hawaiian Islands.

I.

From New York to Aspinwall.

ELL us a story, aunty,—tell us a story," came in pleading tones from a group of children; and they watched my face with eager eyes to see if I looked willing.

A story, children; what shall it be about?

About the places you went to while you were gone, and the people you saw.

Now, aunty, said Carrie, who was one of the older ones, we are going to be here a whole month, and if you will tell us a story every day, we shall know all about your journey.

I thought the matter over for a few minutes. Well, children, said I, I'll make a bargain with you. If you will promise to get your work done nicely every day by four o'clock, I will tell you a story until tea-time.

A bargain! a bargain! shouted the children.

It was winter when we went away, you remember, though there was no snow on the ground. We went on board the steamer Ocean Queen, in New York, on the 12th of January. Uncle George went down with us, and what a crowd there was on the wharf,—men and boys, coachmen and porters! It was some time before our carriage could get inside the wharf-gates, and when I got out, it seemed as if horses' heads were all about me; but seeing Uncle George was not afraid, I took courage, and keeping close behind him, soon left the horses. I found the people were worse than the horses; but after many jostlings and pushings, I got into the saloon, safe and sound, all but a rent in my dress.

Grandma and I stayed there, while grandpa and Uncle George went to look after the baggage. Strangers were all around us, and we couldn't tell who were our fellow-voyagers, and who not. Soon one and another of our friends came to say good-by. It was all very much confused, and we were glad finally when we were actually off.

Then I took a look at the stateroom where we were to spend ten nights. What a little box, almost too small to turn round in!—and our berths had so little space between them that we couldn't sit up at all. We went to bed early, quite disgusted with sea-life to begin with, and were wondering how we could get along for ten days thus cooped up, with hard beds, and not much to eat; for we had had no dinner that day, when—crash! a shock—and the machinery stopped! What could it be? Heads were popped out of staterooms, and What's the matter? was in every mouth. We had run into a small schooner, which had imprudently tried to cross our bows. For an hour there was noise overhead,—men running across the deck; and then all was still, only the thump, thump of our engine; so we went to sleep, thanking our Heavenly Father that no worse thing had happened to us.

Aunty, said Harry, what became of the poor schooner?

We gave her one of our boats, and the captain thought he could get her into port; but she leaked badly, and I afterwards heard he had to run her ashore on some beach just out of New York.

Next morning, in my forgetfulness, I attempted to sit up in my berth, and gave my head a great bump on grandma's berth. On the third night out we had a heavy gale, and one of our sails was blown away with a noise like that of a cannon.

Aunty, said little Alice, do steamers have sails?

Yes, we always had a sail on the foremast; it steadies the ship, and if the wind is right helps the vessel. Almost every body was sea-sick during that gale, for it lasted two days. We went scarcely a hundred miles, and were off Savannah when it cleared up.

Oh, I know where Savannah is, said Harry; it was in my last geography lesson.

When Sabbath came, it was very rough, so we could not have preaching. We sung a few hymns, but were rather quiet, when the cry, Porpoises! porpoises! made us run to the side of the vessel; and sure enough, there was a whole school of them rolling along in great glee. They are light brown fishes, varying in shade, some four feet long, some less. The female and young keep side by side, and leap out of the water at the same time. They jump out of the white crest of one wave into the next, racing along, seeming to try and keep up with the ship. It was very exciting, and the passengers shouted; for, excepting a few birds, they were the first living thing out of the ship we had seen for six days. All the rest of that day we were running so near the Florida coast that we could see the green trees on shore. We could hardly believe it was mid-winter. The water looked shallow, and we grazed the end of a sand-bank, after which they kept the vessel farther from the shore. We saw some great green sea-turtles that day; they were about three feet long. Our wheel turned one over on his back. I wanted to watch him; but we soon left him far, far behind.

We went round by the west of Cuba, to keep out of the way of the pirate Alabama. Monday morning, about nine o'clock, we came in sight of a gunboat. Soon after passing her, boom! went her cannon, and we came to a stand-still. She sent her boat with an officer, who came on board and got newspapers. That gunboat is stationed there to give warning of pirates, I suppose, and she is required