Paddling Pennsylvania: Kayaking & Canoeing the Keystone State's Rivers & Lakes
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Paddling Pennsylvania - Jeff Mitchell
Copyright ©2007 by Jeff Mitchell
Published by
STACKPOLE BOOKS
5067 Ritter Road
Mechanicsburg, PA 17055
www.stackpolebooks.com
All rights reserved, including the right to reproduce this book or portions thereof in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. All inquiries should be addressed to Stackpole Books.
Printed in the United States of America
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
FIRST EDITION
Cover design by Wendy Reynolds
Cover: Leigh Ann Jennings paddles the Susquehanna River at Tunkhannock with a view of Miller Mountain in the distance.
All photos by the author.
Paddling is an inherently risky activity with ever-changing conditions and numerous natural and man-made hazards. Please choose rivers and creeks that are appropriate for your ability. It is also important to exercise caution on lakes and ponds. All persons paddling the rivers, creeks, lakes, ponds, swamps, and other waterways in this guide do so at their own risk; this guide is not a substitute for your own common sense, caution, and taking necessary safety precautions. The author and publisher disclaim any and all liability for conditions along the rivers, creeks, lakes, ponds, swamps, and other waterways in this guide, occurrences along them, and the accuracy of the data, conditions, and information contained herein.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Mitchell, Jeff, 1974–
Paddling Pennsylvania : canoeing and kayaking the keystone state’s rivers and lakes / Jeff Mitchell. — 1st ed.
p. cm.
Includes index.
ISBN-13: 978-0-8117-3626-8 (pbk.)
ISBN-10: 0-8117-3626-1 (pbk.)
1. Canoes and canoeing—Pennsylvania—Guidebooks. 2. Kayaking—Pennsylvania—Guidebooks. 3. Pennsylvania—Guidebooks. I. Title.
GV776.P4M58 2010
797.1220978—dc22
2009035640
eBook ISBN 978-0-8117-4122-4
To Kaitlyn and Christian
Preface
Acknowledgments
Introduction
Delaware River Watershed
Rivers and Creeks
1. Delaware River
Balls Eddy to Narrowsburg
Narrowsburg to Matamoras
Matamoras to Portland
Portland to Riegelsville
Riegelsville to Yardley
2. Lackawaxen River
3. Lehigh River
Bowmanstown to Kimmets Lock
Kimmets Lock or Canal Park to Easton
4. Little Schuylkill River
5. Tulpehocken Creek
6. Schuylkill River
Port Clinton to Reading
Reading to Fairmount Park, Philadelphia
7. Brandywine Creek
8. Darby Creek
Lakes, Ponds, and Reservoirs
9. Belmont Lake
10. Miller Pond
11. Upper Woods Pond
12. Lower Woods Pond
13. White Oak Pond
14. Prompton Lake
15. Decker Pond
16. White Deer Lake
17. Shohola Lake
18. Pecks Pond
19. Bruce Lake
20. Egypt Meadow Lake
21. Promised Land Lake
22. Lower Lake
23. Tobyhanna Lake
24. Gouldsboro Lake
25. Bradys Lake
26. Long Pond
27. Francis E. Walter Reservoir
28. Locust Lake
29. Tuscarora Lake
30. Mauch Chunk Lake
31. Beltzville Lake
32. Hidden Lake
33. Minsi Lake
34. Leaser Lake
35. Lake Towhee
36. Lake Nockamixon
37. Lake Galena
38. Green Lane Reservoir
39. Blue Marsh Lake
40. Scotts Run Lake
41. Hopewell Lake
42. Struble Lake
43. Chambers Lake
44. Marsh Creek Lake
45. Lake Luxembourg
Susquehanna River Watershed
Rivers and Creeks
46. Susquehanna River
New York border to Hallstead
Sayre to Laceyville
Laceyville to Falls
Falls to Shickshinny
Shickshinny to Northumberland (Shikellamy State Park)
Sunbury to Clemson Island/Halifax
Clemson Island/Halifax to Royalton
Falmouth to Peach Bottom
47. Sugar Creek
48. Wyalusing Creek
49. Mehoopany Creek
50. Tunkhannock Creek
51. Nescopeck Creek
52. Catawissa Creek
53. Penns Creek
54. Mahantango Creek
55. Shermans Creek
56. Conodoguinet Creek
57. Swatara Creek
Pine Grove to PFBC Waterworks Access
PFBC Waterworks Access to Middletown
58. Yellow Breeches Creek
59. Conewago Creek
60. Conestoga River
61. Octoraro Creek
Lakes, Ponds, and Reservoirs
62. Beechwood Lake
63. Cowanesque Lake
64. Tioga Lake and Hammond Lake
65. Hills Creek Lake
66. Stephen Foster Lake
67. Sunfish Pond
68. State Game Lands 250 Pond
69. Cooks Pond
70. Stevens Lake
71. Stillwater Lake
72. Merli-Sarnoski Lake
73. Lackawanna Lake
74. Fords Lake
75. Frances Slocum Lake
76. Mountain Springs Lake
77. The Meadows and Beech Lake
78. Lake John
79. Splashdam Pond
80. Lake Jean
81. Lily Lake
82. McWilliams Reservoir and Klines Reservoir
83. Colyer Lake
84. Walker Lake
85. Faylor Lake
86. Memorial Lake
87. Opossum Lake
88. Letterkenny Reservoir
89. Pinchot Lake
90. Speedwell Forge Lake
91. Lake Williams and Lake Redman
92. Lake Marburg
93. Long Arm Reservoir
94. Muddy Run Recreational Reservoir (Muddy Run Lake)
95. Octoraro Reservoir
West Branch Susquehanna River Watershed
Rivers and Creeks
96. West Branch Susquehanna River
Cherry Tree to Shawville
Shawville to Renovo
Renovo to PFBC Linden Access
PFBC Linden Access to Sunbury
97. Loyalsock Creek
98. Pine Creek
Ansonia to Blackwell
Blackwell to Torbert Canoe Access
99. Bald Eagle Creek
100. Kettle Creek
101. Sinnemahoning Creek
102. First Fork Sinnemahoning Creek
103. Driftwood Branch Sinnemahoning Creek
104. Bennett Branch Sinnemahoning Creek
105. Moshannon Creek
106. Clearfield Creek
Lakes, Ponds, and Reservoirs
107. Shumans Lake
108. Sones Pond
109. Bearwallow Pond
110. Hunters Lake
111. Lake Chillisquaque
112. Rose Valley Lake
113. Little Pine Lake
114. Lyman Lake
115. Kettle Creek Reservoir
116. George B. Stevenson Reservoir
117. Shaggers Inn Shallow Water Impoundment
118. Curwensville Lake
119. Glendale Lake
120. Black Moshannon Lake
121. Foster Joseph Sayers Lake
Juniata River Watershed
Rivers and Creeks
122. Juniata River
Huntingdon to Lewistown
Lewistown to Duncannon
123. Tuscarora Creek
124. Aughwhick Creek
125. Raystown Branch Juniata River
126. Frankstown Branch Juniata River
127. Little Juniata River
Lakes, Ponds, and Reservoirs
128. Holman Lake
129. Whipple Lake
130. Perez Lake
131. Cowans Gap Lake
132. Raystown Lake
133. Canoe Lake
134. Shawnee Lake
Potomac River Watershed
Rivers and Creeks
135. Conococheague Creek
Lakes, Ponds, and Reservoirs
136. Long Pine Run Reservoir
137. Meadow Grounds Lake
138. Lake Koon and Lake Gordon
Allegheny River Watershed
Rivers and Creeks
139. Allegheny River
Port Allegany to Eldred
Kinzua Dam to Tionesta
Tionesta to Emlenton
140. Potato Creek
141. Conewango Creek
142. Brokenstraw Creek
143. Tionesta Creek
144. Oil Creek
145. French Creek
146. Clarion River
Ridgway to Irwin Access
Irwin Access to Clarion
Deer Creek Access to Parkers Landing
147. Red Bank Creek
Brookville to New Bethlehem
New Bethlehem to Allegheny River
148. Mahoning Creek
149. Crooked Creek
150. Kiskiminetas, Conemaugh, and Stonycreek Rivers
Greenhouse Park to Conemaugh River Lake
Conemaugh Dam to Allegheny River
151. Loyalhanna Creek
Lakes, Ponds, and Reservoirs
152. Allegheny Reservoir
153. East Branch Lake
154. Beaver Meadows Lake
155. Tionesta Lake
156. Chapman Lake
157. Howard Eaton Reservoir
158. Lake Pleasant
159. Union City Reservoir
160. Clear Lake
161. Woodcock Creek Lake
162. Conneaut Marsh
163. Tamarack Lake
164. State Game Lands 69 Pond
165. Sugar Lake
166. Justus Lake
167. Lake Wilhelm
168. Kahle Lake
169. Kyle Lake
170. Mahoning Creek Lake
171. Hemlock Lake
172. Keystone Lake
173. Crooked Creek Lake
174. Yellow Creek Lake
175. Loyalhanna Lake
176. Keystone Lake
177. Conemaugh River Lake
178. Donegal Lake
179. Duman Lake
180. Colver Reservoir
181. Hinckston Run Reservoir
182. Wilmore Reservoir
183. Beaverdam Run Reservoir
184. Quemahoning Reservoir
Monongahela River Watershed
Rivers and Creeks
185. Casselman River
186. Youghiogheny River
Ramcat Access to Ohiopyle
Connellsville to West Newton
Lakes, Ponds, and Reservoirs
187. Youghiogheny River Lake
188. High Point Lake
189. Cranberry Glade Lake
190. Laurel Hill Lake
191. Lake Somerset
192. Greenlick Run Lake (Green Lick Reservoir)
193. Virgin Run Lake
194. Dunlap Creek Lake
Ohio River Watershed
Rivers and Creeks
195. Shenango River
196. Raccoon Creek
Lakes, Ponds, and Reservoirs
197. Pymatuning Reservoir
198. Hartstown Swamp
199. Shenango River Lake
200. Bessemer Lake
201. Lower Hereford Manor Lake
202. Lake Arthur
203. Glade Dam Lake
204. Glade Run Lake
205. Raccoon Lake
206. Cross Creek Lake
207. Dutch Fork Lake
208. R. J. Duke Lake
Lake Erie Watershed
Rivers and Creeks
209. Elk Creek
Lakes, Ponds, and Reservoirs
210. Presque Isle Bay
211. Lake Erie
Index
Sliding onto the water and breaking its surface with a paddle is like entering a different world—one that melts away the stress of our modern lives, a world that is governed by nature’s endless cycles and rhythms that will continue long after we are gone. All too often, our lives are cordoned off by the asphalt and macadam of the highways, streets, and roads that we build around ourselves. Yet our rivers and creeks are blissfully unaware of such limitations as they meander and bend, following courses that defy logic, always taking the most scenic routes. Being on the water offers a perspective of how we have been blessed with a beautiful world, a world with which humanity is inextricably intertwined despite our efforts to control and exploit it. Paddling offers us the solace and space to appreciate the incredible landscapes, history, and ecology of the places we call home.
I still think back to a paddling trip I did on the Clarion River with my friend Steve Davis a number of years ago. The air hung hot and heavy as the humidity faded the deep green forests and masked the distant mountains. We proceeded down the river into a gorge with massive boulders, deep pools, and swirling rapids, and we camped among the ferns and fished for smallmouth. Towering white pine trees rose like the columns of some sylvan temple while eagles, hawks, egrets, and herons followed their daily routines, unaware of our special sojourn. The soft murmur of the current reflected the sunlight in the morning and put us to sleep at night. At the time, I felt as if we were passing through a special place. And, in fact, we were.
See you on the river.
Special thanks to all my friends and family, including Joe and Tessa Mitchell, my parents, Leigh Ann Jennings, Steve Davis, Bryan Mulvihill, Bob Holliday, Jeff Sensenig, Dan Wrona, Ashley Lenig, Jay and Kristen Lewis, BCCKC, Paul and Paula Litwin, Rick and Nadine Dixon, Ed Kintner, Chuck Pirone, and Carissa Longo.
This book would not be possible without the assistance, support, and patience of Kyle Weaver and Brett Keener at Stackpole Books.
Finally, I express my appreciation to all those volunteers who support watershed organizations, clean our rivers, creeks, lakes, ponds, and reservoirs, and maintain and promote our water trails.
Pennsylvania may derive its name from its forests, and it may be famous for its rolling, green mountains, but it is really a land of rivers and creeks, with more waterway miles than any state but Alaska. Rivers defined this state, providing routes for transportation and shipping lanes to convey coal and timber. They were highways through a wilderness, helping to build cities and industrialize a nation.
Unfortunately, man wasn’t so kind to the rivers and streams upon which he depended so heavily. Clear-cut forests resulted in massive erosion and devastating forest fires that clogged waterways with silt and sediment. Acid mine drainage rendered countless miles of rivers and streams lifeless. And finally, thousands of dams combined with dredging and channeling altered the natural flow of the rivers, preventing the natural migration and destroying the habitats of many aquatic species.
But then something began to change. People realized that rivers and creeks offered incredible recreational and environmental benefits. Water trails were established on several rivers and creeks to introduce people to these beautiful waterways. Greenway and comprehensive plans were established to protect and enjoy the rivers. Towns and cities that once shunned rivers are now establishing attractive riverfronts, trails, parks, and access areas. Kayaking is one of the fastest growing outdoor recreational activities in Pennsylvania. Instead of exploiting the rivers and streams, we realize their worth by appreciating them for their outdoor recreation, ecological, and scenic values.
Pennsylvania’s rivers and streams are known for their beauty. Some meander through pastoral countryside, while others cut through impressive canyons, water gaps, and gorges. These waterways offer a glimpse to the past, with the many old canals, bridge abutments, covered bridges, viaducts, and even forgotten towns that lie along their routes. Paddling also protects our waterways by introducing people to the beauty of the rivers, creeks, and lakes upon which our communities depend. By exposing people to our beautiful waterways, their value is appreciated and a realization is created of what could be lost if we do not preserve them.
Simply put, Pennsylvania offers some of the finest paddling in the country. Few states can match our incredible selection of large rivers, creeks, lakes, ponds, and reservoirs. Whether you want to paddle the massive Susquehanna or the intimate Tionesta, the vast Lake Erie or the hidden wilderness of Shumans Lake, you will find it all in the Keystone State.
Purpose and Scope of this Guide
This guide primarily focuses on sizeable flatwater rivers and streams, although riffles and rapids exist on many of the rivers and streams covered. This is not a guide to whitewater rivers and creeks. Industrialized rivers, or those open to heavy commercial traffic, are generally not included. Many lakes and ponds are also covered, but only those that are open to the public and featuring scenic value and limited shoreline development. An overview description of each river, creek, lake, or pond is provided. If you are planning an extended trip on a river or creek, it is advisable you obtain a more detailed guide if one is available. It is important to understand that the character and difficulty of rivers and streams can vary greatly depending on flows. A flood can dramatically change a river or creek with new braids, islands, strainers, and rapids.
This guide is organized by watersheds—the reason being that rivers and streams cross political and regional boundaries that makes organizing a guide by those criteria difficult. The Susquehanna River alone crosses or adjoins fifteen different counties and three different regions of the state.
Safety
Even the most benign creek can become deadly. It is absolutely crucial that you take the necessary steps, and learn important skills, to help ensure your safety while on the water. Please be aware of the following hazards while on the water.
Strainers: Strainers are trees that have fallen into a river or creek, and they are the most dangerous features found on the water. Avoid strainers at all costs and never attempt to paddle through one. If you are out of your boat and the current is taking you towards a strainer and you cannot avoid it, do not try to swim underneath it. Instead, climb over it. Strainers are dangerous because there are branches under the water that can trap and drown a paddler. Furthermore, the powerful current will force a person down into the water when trapped in a strainer. Strainers are often found along islands or bends where the river is cutting into the bank.
Lowhead dams: These are the second most dangerous features on the water. As a general rule, always portage a dam; do not paddle over any dam unless it is breached and there is a safe route. Dams are dangerous because they create recirculating hydraulics, also known as holes, that can trap and drown a paddler. These hydraulics are caused by the water flowing over the dam. Dams are usually identified by a horizon line on a river or creek.
Wing dams: Wing dams exist on a few rivers and creeks, particularly the Delaware River. Wing dams extend from each shore partway into the river or creek, leaving an opening, usually in the middle, through which the river or creek flows. The opening often has very fast and powerful currents with large waves and rapids. Always paddle straight through the opening, or portage; never paddle over the wings, as there may be powerful hydraulics that can capsize a boat and cause drowning.
MAP LEGEND
Rapids: All of the rivers and creeks in this guide are primarily flatwater with easy riffles and rapids. High flows can create significantly more difficult waves and holes that can swamp and flip a canoe or kayak. Do not boat during high flows. If you swim in a rapid, float feet first, try to hold onto your paddle and, if you can, the upstream end of the boat.
Foot entrapment: As a general rule, do not attempt to stand up in deep, fastmoving water since your feet can become trapped in the riverbed, particularly if the riverbed is comprised of boulders, large cobblestones, trees, branches, or roots. If your feet become trapped, the current can force you underwater. Wait to stand up when you reach calm water or a shallow riffle. If you can, swim to calmer water; otherwise, float downstream feet first. Never jump feet first into moving current since your feet can become entrapped.
Hypothermia and exposure: These conditions can endanger a paddler any time of the year, including summer. Make sure to bring rainwear, waterproof clothing, and garments made with synthetic materials that can wick away moisture and conserve body heat. It is generally not a good idea to wear cotton since it dries slowly and does not insulate when wet, which can lead to hypothermia. Wearing a life preserver will provide additional protection from hypothermia.
Drowning: Drowning can result from a variety of factors, such as hypothermia, exposure, foot entrapment, exhaustion, or most frequently, failure to wear a life preserver. You should always wear a suitable preserver while on the water. Strong currents and long distances to shore can be difficult for any swimmer to overcome without a preserver. Most deaths are the result of people not wearing a life preserver.
Dehydration: It may seem ironic to face dehydration on the river, but you are more susceptible than you realize due to exposure to the sun and wind and the exertion required when paddling. Always bring enough water and/or a water filter.
Poison ivy and other poisonous plants and insects: Thanks to plenty of water and thick soils, poison ivy is a common presence along rivers and creeks, as are other poisonous plants. Learn to identify these plants. The locations in this guide also attract bloodthirsty and other troublesome insects. Protect yourself with repellant, bug netting, and clothing.
Equipment: Proper equipment is critical to help ensure your safety. Whenever you are on the water it is important to have these items:
Life preserver
Whistle
Cell phone
Wading shoes
Clothing made from wool or synthetic materials, such as polypropylene or fleece
Throw rope
Sufficient water and food
Water filter for longer trips
Rain jacket, hat, sunglasses
Sunblock
First-aid kit
Camera and binoculars
GPS—may be helpful finding islands on which to camp, or to navigate the larger swamps in this book, such as Conneaut Marsh or Hartstown Swamp.
Other safety precautions:
• If you capsize, hold onto the upstream end of the boat and swim to the shore or an eddy. If you are in a difficult current and cannot manage your boat, let it go and swim to shore.
• If you collide with an obstacle, such as a rock, while in a boat, lean into the obstacle to help prevent capsizing.
• Always scout any section of the river that may appear challenging, dangerous, or does not present a clear route.
• Never boat alone; always bring a friend and let someone know where you are going and when you expect to return.
When to Paddle
For the rivers and streams in this guide, sufficient flow is obviously dependent on rainfall. A wet year can result in many rivers and streams being runnable most of the time, and a dry year just the opposite.
As a general rule, the major rivers (Delaware, Schuylkill, Susquehanna, Juniata, West Branch Susquehanna, Allegheny, Youghiogheny) are runnable year-round, although you can expect to drag your boat across riffles and gravel bars. The other creeks and streams are usually runnable up until May or June, and again in late October or November. Heavy rainfalls may permit paddling for a few days to a week over the summer.
Rivers and streams in the southeastern corner of the state may be ice-free all winter long.
Access
As a general rule, established access areas with signs, ramps, and parking are available on the larger rivers and more popular creeks. Many of the lesser-known creeks in this guide do not have established access areas, so you will have to park along the road or in a pull-off, usually near a bridge. The banks to reach the stream or creek are often steep and brushy.
Acronyms
The destinations in this guide, particularly the lakes and ponds, are owned and managed by various governmental agencies and departments identified by their acronyms for convenience. They are:
DCNR: Pennsylvania Department of Conservation and Natural Resources
NPS: National Park Service
PFBC: Pennsylvania Fish and Boat Commission
PGC: Pennsylvania Game Commission
USACE: United States Army Corps of Engineers
USFS/ANF: United States Forest Service/Allegheny National Forest
USGS: United States Geological Survey
Almost every lake and pond in this guide has an access area of some kind that can be reached by a vehicle; however, there are a few that require you to hike in with your boat, offering a more challenging and isolated paddling experience.
Permits and Fees
Depending on which governmental agency or department or private entity owns the lake, pond, or launch areas, permits or fees may be required. This money is crucial in maintaining the access areas that are so important to paddlers.
DCNR and PFBC: Non-powered boats must have one of the following: launching or mooring permits from Pennsylvania state parks, or boat registration or launching permit from the PFBC.
USACE: Small fees are generally required to access USACE lakes. Fees are generally paid by the honor system at the parking and launch areas.
PGC: No permits or fees are required; however, DCNR or PFBC permits may be required at some lakes.
Privately owned lakes and ponds open to the public: May require their own permits or fees. Some may require DCNR or PFBC permits.
County and local government-owned lakes and ponds: May require their own permits and fees. Some may require DCNR or PFBC permits.
State and National Scenic Rivers
Pennsylvania is home to several rivers and creeks that have been designated as state or national scenic rivers. This list is limited to those rivers and creeks covered in this guide.
State Scenic Rivers
Brandywine Creek
Lehigh River
Little Schuylkill River
Octoraro Creek
Pine Creek
Schuylkill River
Tulpehocken Creek
Yellow Breeches Creek
National Scenic Rivers
Allegheny River
Clarion River
Delaware River
Pennsylvania Water Trails
Pennsylvania has an excellent system of officially recognized water trails established by local groups and the Pennsylvania Fish and Boat Commission. Many of these rivers and creeks have maps and guides that are free to the public. Most of the rivers and creeks in this guide are not part of the water trail system. The PFBC and DCNR are actively looking to expand the water trail system, so if you have a local river or creek you’d like to include, go to www.fish.state.pa.us/watertrails/trailindex.htm for more information. The following rivers and creeks are part of the system:
Delaware River
Lehigh River
Schuylkill River
North Branch Susquehanna River
West Branch Susquehanna River
Pine Creek
Susquehanna River
Raystown Branch Juniata River
Juniata River
Conodoguinet Creek
Swatara