In the Garden of the Fugitives: A Novel
3/5
()
About this ebook
Almost twenty years after forbidding him to contact her, Vita receives a letter from a man who has long stalked her from a distance. Once, Royce was her benefactor and she was one of his brightest protégées. Now Royce is ailing and Vita’s career as a filmmaker has stalled, and both have reasons for wanting to settle accounts. They enter into an intimate game of words, played according to shifting rules of engagement.
Beyond their murky shared history, they are both aware they can use each other to free themselves from deeper pasts. Vita is processing the shameful inheritance of her birthplace, and making sense of the disappearance of her beloved. Royce is haunted by memories of the untimely death of his first love, an archaeologist who worked in the Garden of the Fugitives in Pompeii. Between what’s been repressed and what has been disguised are disturbances that reach back through decades, even centuries. But not everything from the past is precious: each gorgeous age is built around a core of rottenness.
Profoundly addictive and unsettling, In the Garden of the Fugitives is a masterful novel of duplicity and counterplay, as brilliantly illuminating as it is surprising—about the obscure workings of guilt in the human psyche, the compulsion to create and control, and the dangerous morphing of desire into obsession.
Ceridwen Dovey
Ceridwen Dovey’s debut novel, Blood Kin, was published around the world and selected for the National Book Foundation’s prestigious 5 Under 35 honors list. The Wall Street Journal named her one of their "artists to watch." Her short story collection, Only the Animals, was described by The Guardian as a "dazzling, imagined history of humans’ relationship with animals." She lives in Sydney, Australia.
Related to In the Garden of the Fugitives
Related ebooks
The Dragon in the Bookshop Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Moonstone Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Machines of the Mind: Personification in Medieval Literature Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsCave Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5A Marvelous Solitude: The Art of Reading in Early Modern Europe Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsPompeii, Its Life and Art Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Museum of Mankind: Man and Boy in the British Museum Ethnography Department Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Prophet Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Adolescents, Families, and Social Development: How Teens Construct Their Worlds Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsMarvellous Thieves: Secret Authors of the Arabian Nights Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsFor the Love of Rome: Memories, Musings, and Anecdotes Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsAn Extraordinary Theory of Objects: A Memoir of an Outsider in Paris Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5The World in Play: Portraits of a Victorian Concept Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Seeking Western Men: Email-Order Brides under China's Global Rise Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsTen Shards: An Anthology of Creative Journeys Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsExploring the Fantastic: Genre, Ideology, and Popular Culture Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsSearch for a Common Language: Environmental Writing and Education Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsLittle Owl's Book of Thinking: An Introduction to Thinking Skills Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Italian Hours Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Cask of Amontillado Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsTheir Own Best Creations: Women Writers in Postwar Television Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsAround the World in Eighty Days Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsTwinkle and Chubbins - Their Astonishing Adventures in Nature Fairyland Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Girls with Stone Faces Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Talking Thrush and Other Tales from India - Illustrated by W. Heath Robinson Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsNeighborhood Hawks: A Year Following Wild Birds Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsInsight Guides Explore Rome (Travel Guide eBook) Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsMind over Matter: Memory Fiction from Daniel Defoe to Jane Austen Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsLetters Written in Sweden, Norway, and Denmark Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Chewing the Page: The Mourning Goats Interviews Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5
Literary Fiction For You
Prophet Song: A Novel (Booker Prize Winner) Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Piranesi Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5A Confederacy of Dunces Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The 7 1/2 Deaths of Evelyn Hardcastle Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Catch-22: 50th Anniversary Edition Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Covenant of Water (Oprah's Book Club) Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5A Man Called Ove: A Novel Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Demon Copperhead: A Novel Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Leave the World Behind: A Novel Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Pride and Prejudice: Bestsellers and famous Books Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Silmarillion Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Only Woman in the Room: A Novel Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Handmaid's Tale Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Life of Pi: A Novel Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Cloud Cuckoo Land: A Novel Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Little Birds: Erotica Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5Flowers for Algernon Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Alchemist Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Lagos Wife: A Novel Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5I Who Have Never Known Men Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Old Man and the Sea: The Hemingway Library Edition Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Tender Is the Flesh Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Poisonwood Bible: A Novel Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Queen's Gambit Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Invisible Hour: A Novel Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Sympathizer: A Novel (Pulitzer Prize for Fiction) Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5I'm Thinking of Ending Things: A Novel Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5The Master & Margarita Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5Babel: Or the Necessity of Violence: An Arcane History of the Oxford Translators' Revolution Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5All the Ugly and Wonderful Things: A Novel Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5
Related categories
Reviews for In the Garden of the Fugitives
9 ratings1 review
- Rating: 3 out of 5 stars3/5The story annoyed me but the book was saved by the interesting background of the excavation of Pompei.
Book preview
In the Garden of the Fugitives - Ceridwen Dovey
Given our history, Vita, I’m aware you may decide not to read this. I turned seventy this past May, though I don’t expect you to care. For me this long-anticipated leap year (MMXX, as the Romans would have written it) has brought unwelcome news. The rest of humankind advances bravely toward its future while I stew in sickness, and in my own nostalgia, as everybody warned would happen at this time of life. It’s the craven need for absolution that has taken me by surprise. My thoughts are tuned ever more to Kitty, and to you. I am not a religious man, yet here I am, stuck in religious mode, coming to you as a supplicant.
I have something to propose, but I need to know you’re still there, that you might be prepared to hear me out.
Yours,
Royce
Since I broke off contact, I’ve thought about you often. Mostly unkindly. But there – I have thought about you.
You’ve timed your latest entreaty well, which I’m sure is no coincidence. I’m crawling towards the abyss of early middle age myself. In a few months I will turn forty, as you would know. I read your email and was reminded that you’re one of the strangest, most significant things that ever happened to me. I don’t just mean the money. It was the quality of your attention. The generous yet questionable nature of it. Nobody has ever been so invested in me making good on whatever raw talent I once possessed – not even my parents, for their love was always unconditional. Yours came with strings attached.
Vita
My dear, your reply is more than I deserve. It made me light-headed, poised somewhere between apprehension and happiness.
I’ll be clear about my proposal. Lately, I have begun excavating my memories of Kitty, a process that has been more than cathartic: it has been purgative, purifying. It has taken me a long time to look directly at all the images of her lodged in the undulations of my brain—for years I was stuck on a single, painful frame of her standing at the rim of Vesuvius, a fumarole within its core gently steaming behind her. That was the ending. In writing about her I am finally able to think instead of our beginning. All I need now is a receptive reader.
Perhaps you might like to do something similar for me and dig around in your own past, get rid of whatever it is that blocks you. Forgive me for saying it, but time is running out for you too. I have waited patiently until now for you to fulfill your early artistic promise. Under the right conditions, I believe it is still within your power to alchemize that potential into actual art. The rewards will be worth it; you know they always are with me. I am, if nothing else, an expert listener, something else we have in common.
Yours,
Royce
My last voluntary contact with you, seventeen years ago – you could not have forgotten – was a letter saying I never wanted to hear from you again. A request you chose to ignore. I could not afford to vanish entirely, and risk losing those bonus cheques with your spidery signature that arrived every two years like clockwork. So there was never a clean break, you always knew where to find me. Once the cheques stopped arriving, exactly ten years after my graduation, the birthday cards continued, asking if I was flourishing.
You’re not of a generation to have these reminders automated. I imagine you still keep a paper diary, ordered from the alumni association of our alma mater, with a dark maroon cover and the crest discreetly embossed on the top right corner. Only those in the know would recognise it: three open books, the Latin for ‘truth’ split into syllables across their pages.
These things mattered to you a great deal, I mean the signifiers of a person’s educational lineage. I recall your college class ring – class of ’71? ’72? – most clearly. I’d seen those clunky gold rings on the pinkies of my male classmates, markers of East Coast boarding schools, modern-day royal seals. They were useful as beacons of what kind of boy to avoid. On your hand the sight of the ring filled me with pity. Those boys were parading their power in the present, but you were still clinging to old symbols, old associations, to tell you who you were.
I understand what you’re asking of me. Mutual confession, the inside view.
I’m open to the idea, but for reasons of my own.
Vita
How wonderful to get you in stereo again, Vita. Rudely, I’ve not asked the basics. Are you well? Are your parents well? Are you still living in Mudgee, on the olive farm?
I write this from a very humid Boston. I have hardly left my air-conditioned townhouse this summer. Usually I escape to the house in Vermont, but the various commitments of dying—of what it does not matter—have kept me sweating it out here instead.
The only respite from the heat outside comes late in the evening. If my energy permits I go walking on the Common, past the illuminated softball fields, all the way up to the spray pool at Frog Pond. A breeze comes off the river, or from the sea, it’s hard to tell. Almost every night there’s music drifting across the grass from the Bandstand.
Yesterday evening I felt so revived by my walk that I decided to treat myself to a late restaurant dinner. Since it’s rare for me to have an appetite these days, I no longer mind dining out alone. The waitstaff were extra attentive. The sommelier spent time taking me through the cellar offerings. I couldn’t manage dessert but I did have a glass of Sauternes, my favorite, as you know.
It made me think of our very first dinner together. Do you remember? I had ordered a bottle of Château d’Yquem to go with the warm pear sabayon. It was produced on Montaigne’s family estate in Bordeaux, though in his day they amassed their fortune not from sweet wine but from salted fish, similar to the local delicacy Kitty and I used to eat in new Pompei.
You mentioned that you happened to be reading Montaigne’s ‘On Cannibals’ in your social theory class, his reflections on a long-ago tribe’s tradition of roasting and eating their enemies, even sending portions of the meal to absent friends and family members.
‘Jungle takeout!’ I laughed, and you looked uncomfortable. Montaigne, you told me, was the father of cultural relativism and recommended we suspend judgment of those cannibals. You paraphrased him: while we quite rightly judge their faults, we are blind to our own.
Even then it gave me a little chill of recognition.
The sommelier arrived at our table, and poured a neat spiral of wine for you to taste. I must have bored you to tears, going on about the two types of Botrytis cinerea infection in the grapes of the Bordeaux region. Gray rot, which ruins the grapes, and noble rot, which partially raisins the grapes and gives the dessert wine its concentrated flavor. Yet you made me feel as if it were the most interesting thing you’d ever heard.
Partially raisined is an apt description of my own appearance these days. I would like to think that, as with all humans who have not been blessed with good looks, my own rot is noble rather than gray. I have had less to lose to old age.
I am indeed still in Mudgee. My parents have passed away (cancer, heartbreak). I see your old habits of surveillance die hard, but I am almost flattered by such conscientious snooping, for who else would care?
Our first dinner in old Boston. You ordered me the halibut, made a fuss of telling me that its name derived from being eaten on ancient holy days, and it arrived before me glistening with tarragon beurre blanc. I had to disguise how little I liked it.
You were bald, or at least balding, or maybe only going grey. Tall. A mild squint. Or am I remembering you as uglier than is reasonable? Back then I saw you as nothing but middle-aged: I was looking at the world as a twenty-one-year-old does, in thrall to my own immortality.
Near the end of the meal, you recounted the story of your last visit to your father in Vermont before his death, when you were still at college yourself. How you’d known that he loved you because he left a glass of milk in the fridge for your midnight snack, as he had when you were younger.
I’d wondered why you couldn’t pour it yourself, whether this was a tic peculiar to your relationship with him or some important clue to the entire culture. America and its traditions still mystified me, even in the fall of my senior year, when I could no longer claim to be a fresh transplant from other parts of the New World.
‘Why do adults drink so much milk here?’ I asked. In my dining hall, I’d watched grown men drink glass after glass of milk at dinner to wash down heaped plates of fried food.
But it was the wrong question, a rare slip-up for me. I was the queen of questions, unfailingly pitching them at the proper emotional register. Questions as presents to be opened.
You stirred in your seat, and a waiter appeared like a wraith to replace the linen napkin that had dropped to the floor. You would have preferred that I ask about your father. So I did.
I didn’t have to fake my interest – I was interested, in your father, in you, in everything and everyone around me. Anything you can say about America is true, someone once said. You can never get to the bottom of the place, you can never pin the people down. Whatever it is you’re up to here, Royce, you are still true to type in that regard. And so am I – an ever curious observer.
A touching detail, the glass of milk my father used to pour for me. I had forgotten it. There, you see, we can fill in each other’s gaps and somewhere between us may lie the truth of ourselves.
Our memories are always imperfect, Kitty used to say. We have to leave ourselves clues—photos, scrapbooks, journals—or our very own pasts become inaccessible, though we lived through every moment. What hope, then, of deciphering somebody else’s past, let alone the history of an ancient civilization? She didn’t mean by this that we shouldn’t try, but she did understand that in her work she would always be on the losing side of the battle against oblivion.
In the mail today was a save-the-date for my college class’s fiftieth reunion next year. Fifty years. The received wisdom is that you should only attend a reunion if you’ve been a spectacular success or a spectacular failure, these being the states most attractive to others. The worst is to get stuck in the middling no-man’s-land. That wisdom has held true in my experience, at least until my forty-fifth reunion a few years ago, when people seemed to have come full circle. They no longer cared what they had or hadn’t made of their lives. Wealth was hardly mentioned—the sheen of it had worn off. Conversations were open, honest. Even those who had previously turned their backs on their college experience now felt wistful about those years.
At the Friday night barbecue several classmates, newly bereaved, asked my advice on how to live alone. We were being served lamb koftas by undergraduates working the reunions, just as you once did. In the courtyard lit with lanterns, I yearned for Kitty. Each time somebody tapped me on the shoulder I held my breath and hoped it might be her forever youthful ghost.
All I could recommend to my classmates as a tonic for loneliness was travel, but if you’re not used to it, the vertigo of being in a strange place can make you feel as if you’ve paid for a seat in the boat on the River Styx and are heading toward the underworld’s marshlands. Journeys need a point, a narrative arc. I was always traveling to be near Kitty, or to catch a glimpse of you.
I won’t make it to my reunion next year. I’ve been agonizing over what to write as my personal entry for the yearbook. It will be my last message to my peers, yet when I think of what to say I keep lapsing into cliché. If I submit anything at all, perhaps it should be a sketch I once made of a mosaic skeleton on the wall of a villa outside Pompeii. The skeleton is reclining with a lurid, toothy grin as if at a feast, cup full. The Latin inscription reads Enjoy your life. Which made Kitty and me laugh at the time. How self-evident! But it is the only good advice the old have to give.
You’ve been waiting for me to respond to your prompt, haven’t you? The bottle of Sauternes. The first of your unwanted gifts to me. It set off warning bells that the time I’d been spending with you was not quite kosher, not within the realm of normal interaction between an applicant to the Lushington Foundation and its founder.
It arrived near the end of my second-last semester of college. I’d cycled back from my final class of the week, following the salt trail along the path to avoid slick ice. The campus bus passed me and I glanced up at the resigned faces of my fellow Plaza residents, condemned to live in the ugly buildings far from the action of the main campus and the desirable dormitories along the river.
It was already dark, a December gloom, but as I flew along, the streetlights came on in unison and the snowbanks began to sparkle. Even on a bad day, in that world, at that age, everything meant something. I was at the centre of things.
I had been thinking about my seminar on narrative nonfiction cinema. Most of the other students wanted to be auteur filmmakers, inserting themselves into their documentaries as subject, character or guide, sometimes faux-heroic, sometimes as cheeky trickster figures. A confessional style of filmmaking was ascendant. It was the dawn of the age of baring it all.
I liked my classmates’ work but I felt an ethical obligation to leave myself out of my films. No voice-over, no narration, no intrusion. Just observational footage. Film as an impersonal research instrument or an artist’s scalpel making shapes from the world’s putty.
‘What about adding in some music?’ someone in the class had suggested after I screened a montage of the wine farm footage I’d filmed the past summer in Paarl, near Cape Town. Close-ups of the vine stokkies in buckets of water, medium shots of them newly planted in the soil, wider panning shots of the vineyard landscape. I had held these shots for a very long time. The class had practically fallen asleep. The professor praised the attentiveness of the footage, though he too seemed puzzled by my refusal to include any scrap of my own positioning. During the break, he asked me kindly, ‘Are you getting what you hoped you would out of this class?’
The bottle was waiting for me at the front desk of my dormitory building. The store had sent it wrapped in clear cellophane. An ex-boyfriend with whom I remained friends was at the desk, examining the label with interest.
‘From a secret admirer,’ he said, handing it over.
I was aware that my eyes were watering from the cold. My mind was elsewhere, my stomach was empty, and there I was, holding a thirty-year-old bottle of wine.
I knew immediately it was from you.
Did I take some pleasure in seeing that my ex-boyfriend was intimidated by this expensive gift, that it made him wonder if there were things about me he’d overlooked? I had broken up with him because he said I wasn’t adventurous enough in bed. He kept asking me to kiss with my mouth open wider, which frankly was exhausting. You kiss how you kiss.
My two roommates and I drank the wine with a reckless abandon that I encouraged. One of them, who knew something about the vintage, suggested I save it for a special occasion. But my mood had turned savage. Was this gift meant to be a tribute to my fieldwork on the wine farm the previous summer, a taste of the high life to take the edge off spending time around the poor? Or a reminder that I was on campus by invitation only, my financial aid package made possible by donations from committed alumni like you?
I needed you to give me a Lushington fellowship. At the information evening earlier in the semester, the room packed with girls like me with hungry eyes, I watched you closely. The eunuch wizard in a coven of clever witches. I could live for two years off the initial grant, buy a video camera of my own. And, we were told, if Fellows kept delivering according to certain metrics of performance, they would keep being rewarded, every two years for a decade – bonuses for proven career gains, pure and simple.
Yet I wasn’t always going to play Eliza to your Henry, hoping one day to pass as a proper lady. So in the living room of our coveted senior suite (our own bedrooms around a communal area, the recompense for enduring years of bunk beds and room-shares), we drank the Sauternes straight from the bottle, passing it around like the end of a keg hose.
It was a Friday evening. The wine was too rich. It began to snow again, and instead of going out we ended up going to bed early. In the morning we stumbled sleepy-eyed downstairs to the dining hall to fill our trays with bagels and pink grapefruits sliced in half, taking our everyday abundance for granted.
I meant to say in my last note how sorry I was to hear about your parents. Enough time has gone by since my own parents’ dramatic deaths for me to be able to think of them only as having passed, without the precise pain of my loss. No matter how it happens, for only children like you and me it’s more than usually destabilizing.
I have just returned from my final meeting as a board member of the Herreford Natural History Museum. I thought of you on the car journey to Salem. It was sleeting, I think, when we drove there during your winter break, near the start of your last semester at college. You had your glasses on, your first pair, and I sensed you still felt not quite yourself in them.
We stopped for a quick lunch in that coffeehouse where people looked askance at us. The way we spoke to each other must have seemed too intense for us to be related. I felt them wondering what about me was so fascinating that a young woman could listen so carefully, maintain eye contact for so long. In my work with the Foundation, I had always been surrounded by interesting young women, but most of them didn’t ask much about my life beyond the bare outlines. Our conversations, though, yours and mine, felt like a dance, a fertile loop I had only previously experienced with Kitty. Like her, you hated to speak of things that were inessential.
Did you notice, at the museum, that things became awkward? The board’s chairman had forgotten I’d asked him to set up a meeting for you with one of the curators. The secretary went searching for somebody to deal with us.
I knew you’d made applications for a postgraduation summer internship elsewhere, to a television production company most recently, and nothing had come of them. My suggestion that you apply for one at the museum was motivated not just by my connection there, but by Salem’s proximity, only a forty-minute drive north of Boston. I would be able to visit often, take you to the Cabot Street Cinema, the lighthouse on Winter Island.
Eventually an assistant curator came out. She gave me a look of such contempt I thought it best to stay where I was. I knew you would win her over on the brief tour she gave you of the Native American potsherd collection.
I hoped the reason you were upbeat in the car on the way home was because you’d been stimulated by seeing the artifacts in storage, uninterpreted, rather than in an exhibition. But then you said they were remnants of a cultural tradition to which you felt no valid connection, and that you needed some personal history with a culture if you were going to engage with it, make films about it; it didn’t feel right to pick a subject as if you were picking a book to read for your own diversion.
I dropped you outside your dormitory. In my rearview mirror, I saw an expression of weariness cross your face as I drove away. It had been an ordeal for you, not only the scene at the museum, the whole thing. The fellowships had not yet been announced—my power to change your life hung in the balance and you knew it, but you’d had to summon the courage to say no to something I wanted for you.
I drove from the farm into town this morning for my aerobics class, and became one among a legion of middle-aged women reflected in the mirror behind the instructor. The communal high hits halfway through and even the shy become uninhibited, counting down the kicks as we run towards our doppelgängers in the glass. We are proud of ourselves for still being so limber.
Something weird happens when a bunch of people come together to perform any kind of ritual, whether it’s dancing, singing, painting one another’s bodies or just jumping around. The participants begin to feel an ineffable energy hovering above them, separate from their own selves yet fed by their hearts and minds – and so religious feeling is born, then transferred to a totem or person, a god or gods. Collective effervescence, Durkheim called it. Don’t you love that? All of us just bubbles caught up in the liquid flow of togetherness.
Yep, I’ve just used Durkheim to describe an aerobics class. (I had a lot of wine before starting this. My cottage on the farm is cold in winter, and alcohol is cheaper than electricity in Australia these days.)
In the gym, we are no doubt objects of ridicule to anybody looking through the partition. We are worshipping nothing more than ourselves, so it has no lasting meaning. The euphoria wears off fast. Afterwards we avoid eye contact, slink off to our cars. And yet going to the gym is one of the few ritualised experiences left in my life. That probably applies to many people. The good rituals are stacked towards true youth. It’s all downhill after the teary high school farewells, the university orientations, the sports team initiations, the endless graduation liturgies. For the lucky, the weddings, the christenings.
This might be why I take some trouble over hosting the oil tastings on the olive farm, though it is difficult to get the tourists to look up from their phones, attached like biolimbs. The farm has long been owned by a family who made most of their money harvesting pearls up north, so they insist on displaying pearl jewellery in the tasting room. Visitors do a double take, the old purity and danger confusion, like being sold seafood in the desert. Diamonds would be a better fit than pearls; at least they’ve come from deep in the earth. But this family do not have stakes in a diamond mine. And so, pearls beside olives.
To me this gives the oil-tasting ceremony a touch of the votive: the long strings of pearls look like rosary beads to be counted off in prayer. I slow things down, ask visitors to hold their palms over the plastic cups to heat the oil to room temperature before swirling it around in their mouths, and tell them that an oil’s pungency is measured according to how many times it makes you cough (a two-cough is medium-bodied, a three-cough more robust). I start with the grassier oils, move on to the infused ones – chilli, lemon – hand out half-moons of apple to cleanse the palate, end with a sip of verjuice. I like to hold up a ripe olive and say that each cell of the fruit contains a single droplet of oil.
Sometimes I think my four years of communal living at college set me up wrongly for adult life. I loved being part of a single listening organism in a hushed lecture hall, and feeling the body heat and breath of other students packed into the library in the middle of the night, and never having to eat a single meal on my own, not even breakfast. Nothing that comes afterwards ever fully reproduces that sense of belonging, of effortless