Max Factor and Hollywood: A Glamorous History
By Erika Thomas and Marc Wanamaker
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About this ebook
The story of the makeup artist who changed the film industry—and the world of modern cosmetics. Includes photos.
When Polish wigmaker and cosmetician Max Factor arrived in Los Angeles at the dawn of the motion picture industry, “make-up” had been associated only with stage performers and ladies of the oldest profession. Appalled by the garish paints worn by actors, Factor introduced the first “flexible” greasepaint for film in 1914. With a few careful brush strokes, a lot of innovation, and the kind of luck that can happen only in Hollywood, Max Factor changed the meaning of glamour. His innovations can be experienced in every tube of lipstick, palette of eye shadow, and bottle of nail lacquer used today.
Join author Erika Thomas as she reveals the makeup guru's expert beauty tips and the story of how he created the most iconic golden-era looks that are as relevant today as they were nearly a century ago.
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Max Factor and Hollywood - Erika Thomas
PREFACE
Imagine the immense radius that comprises Los Angeles today. Then imagine that before the days of the motorcar or trolley car and before any freeways were in place, Max Factor would pedal on his bicycle—cosmetics and wigs in tow—over pastoral terrain some thirty miles out to the San Fernando Valley and locales beyond to sell his wares to the likes of Cecile B. DeMille and the many pioneering producers like him. It becomes clear, the painstaking work that went into every tube of Supreme Greasepaint, pot of Lip Pomade and sumptuous set of eyelashes Factor would so exquisitely engineer. His immense passion and dedication would cause him to become a major success in Hollywood and, subsequently, throughout the world, and he would set the standard by which an entire industry would operate for more than a century to come. Max Factor didn’t just invent glamour. He pioneered the everyday use of commercial cosmetics, taking them from being utterly disdained to widely celebrated around the world.
Envision the excitement the moviegoing public had upon seeing their favorite stars onscreen and in fan magazines like Motion Picture and Photoplay. In the early years, aside from movies and magazines, all that the public had was imagination. There were no paparazzi, no television or social media, no way to access information by the ton like we do today. There were only the iconic faces of movie stars, projected onto a vast, luminescent screen, and the beauty created by Max Factor.
Marc Wanamaker provided the images for this book. It was a pleasure working with such an expert and someone whose knowledge of Hollywood and Los Angeles history is boundless. Many a time, I’ve e-mailed him in a pinch, in need of specific high-resolution vintage images for one of the magazines I freelance for. And my requests have run the gamut—from a World War II–era Burbank Airport or a bikini-clad Annette Funicello on the beach in Malibu to Frank Sinatra at Capitol Records and Marilyn Monroe boarding an American Airlines flight at LAX. No matter what the request, he seems to have every photograph of every person within his immense collection. From trolley cars to movie studios to location filming, nobody knows more about Los Angeles history than Marc.
It was also a pleasure working with Jaclyn Smith, who was such an iconic part of Max Factor ad campaigns throughout the 1970s and ’80s. In one conversation with her, she referenced her unforgettable Epris commercial, saying, Part of the art of being a woman is knowing when not to be too much of a lady,
as if she were on television leaning confidently on her elbow, one hand resting in her trademark thick brown waves. As hard as it is to think of the stunning actress without Charlie’s Angels immediately coming to mind, Smith shared with me that she started appearing in Max Factor campaigns before she was ever cast on the show. She also shared with me how much the iconic looks Max Factor first invented influence her personal style to this day and that Hollywood has yet to recapture that mystique.
The famed Max Factor Makeup Studio was more than a landmark. It was a virtual glamour factory—a place that headquartered beauty, where color cosmetics were manufactured, packaged and shipped to all corners of the globe for adoring fans of Max Factor, makeup and the movies. When Donelle Dadigan purchased the dilapidated building, she would singlehandedly save the historic structure from what would have more than likely been an ill fate and, in the process, curate the most renowned collection of beauty artifacts and memorabilia in the world. Thanks to her meticulous work, the Hollywood Museum remains a beacon of glamour and a symbol of Hollywood’s halcyon golden era.
Thank you to the fabulous Ms. Debbie Reynolds for sharing her experience with the makeup guru at what was a pivotal time for motion pictures and Max Factor and Company alike and to Richard Adkins at the Hollywood Heritage Museum for imparting his knowledge about the evolution of movie making. Endless thanks to my husband, Frank, and our children, Sydney and Kellen, for continually supporting me in my creative endeavors.
INTRODUCTION
It was from his Highland Avenue glamour factory that the Father of Modern Makeup
would not only birth innumerable beauty innovations but would also create signature looks for some of the most beautiful women in Hollywood, catapulting them to superstardom and causing the whole world to emulate them.
The landmark building where unprecedented beauty trails were blazed operated as a virtual mini city for decades. It was the place where cosmetics were conceived, designed, manufactured, distributed and retailed. It was where starlets on the verge of major fame came to have their careers launched, and after a time, it would be where all women could and would go to get some glamour.
Prior to Max Factor introducing his makeup line to the public, paint,
if ever worn by a woman on the street, was something to be gravely admonished. After all, this was during the prudish, conservative post-Victorian era and at a time when purity was the ideal personification of what it meant to be feminine. Coventry Patmore’s nineteenth-century poem The Angel in the House
still reflected the societal ideals and expectations of women. Moral women did not paint their faces.
But Max Factor would change the world’s perception in an epic way, beginning first with Hollywood, turning the tide of what it meant to look and feel attractive and what it meant to be female—liberating women and creating an entire industry in the process. Did Max Factor know he would come to build something of such lasting phenomenon at the time? Though it was his desire for his business to be successful, it wasn’t likely that he did. One thing is for certain, however: the man who began his career sewing costumes for the opera in his home country of Russia would carry out his passion and innate talent for innovating the aesthetically pleasing as if he were born to do nothing else.
Max Factor did more than apply makeup to the faces of Hollywood. In fact, he invented glamour. Without him, the cosmetics industry as we know it today would never have come into existence. This book is not only homage to the many accomplishments of a beauty pioneer, but it is also one to the golden era of Hollywood, which the man himself created. It is a reminder to celebrate glamour. Enjoy this book and all of the glorious vintage images and beauty tips within it. Keep a copy on your night table, give it as a gift to a fellow beauty lover—and never forget to be glamorous.
A publicity photo of Max Factor and Kathleen Burke in 1936. Paramount Studios sponsored a casting contest in the summer of 1932. The dental assistant turned dramatic actress from Chicago beat out sixty thousand hopefuls, winning the role of Panther Woman
in the science fiction thriller Island of Lost Souls. In this image, Burke demonstrates Max Factor cosmetics while the bespectacled makeup guru looks on.
In this 1927 image, Max Factor applies cake mascara to an actress on location. The makeup kit pictured on the left was typical of the ones Factor and his trained artists made available to actors.
You are not born glamorous. Glamour is created.
—Max Factor
A super-platinum Jean Harlow during the 1930s. The actress’s hair color was so sought after that producer Howard Hughes cashed in on the popularity by offering upward of $10,000 in a contest to the first hairdresser who could re-create the color. Harlow’s shade was so much in demand that peroxide sales skyrocketed when women everywhere tried to create their own versions at home.