The Total Redneck Manual: 221 Ways to Live Large
By T. Edward Nickens and Will Brantley
()
About this ebook
This authoritative guide to the great American redneck lifestyle covers more than 200 tips on everything from hunting and fishing to guns, grub and fun.
Forget all the jokes, stereotypes and caricatures. The Total Redneck Manual is a loving celebration of an all-American cultural icon, as well as a practical guide full of homespun advice on how to enjoy the great outdoors. From skinning squirrels and rabbits to skinny-dipping, knife-throwing, and teaching your kid to flyfish, this comprehensive guide covers all the bases.
In true Field & Stream fashion, it's packed with tips on essential outdoor skills, from picking the right hunting dog and sighting in a rifle to fixing just about anything with duct tape and frying up catfish just like grandma used to make. You'll also learn to open a beer bottle with just about anything, spit on a campfire with deadly accuracy, and kit out the truck of your dreams—with spray paint.
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The Total Redneck Manual - T. Edward Nickens
My guide’s name was Devin Huggard-McInnis, and he was the only one in moose camp who could get to where we were planning to hunt. An unexpected November warm-up had melted the previous week’s snow, and the trail’s hardpan—if there was one—was beneath at least two feet of mud.
I’ve got a Jeep with a winch and big tires. Them others can’t get their pickups out here,
he said as we slipped along the trail at sunrise, watching the shoulder for moose tracks. I grew up out here. Trapping. Shooting grouse. Playing in the mud.
Out here
is the bleak and beautiful country of northwestern Alberta—2,200 miles from my home turf of Western Kentucky—a place where wolves and grizzly bears live, and where guys like Devin say things like ki-yoot.
You mean coyote?
I asked him. We were discussing his substantial trap line, of which the other guides in camp seemed envious.
Yeah, ki-yoots. That’s what I said.
Late the next day, with the quarters, skull, and antlers of a 42-inch bull moose tucked behind the back seat, we buried Devin’s Jeep in enough mud that steam began billowing from under the hood. She’s a little hot,
he said as he put it in park.
We were 30 miles from the nearest house and probably not much less from the nearest vehicle. We fished a couple water bottles that had been upcycled as tobacco spitters from the floorboards and sliced the necks off them. After breaking through skim ice in trailside puddles, we filled the bottles with cold, tannic water and began cleaning the grill and drenching the engine the best we could. The methane-heavy steam produced by the heated puddle water smelled the same as it would have if we’d been hung up in a mud hole in south Georgia. Devin worked with a cigarette hanging from his lips.
You take any offense to being called a redneck, Devin?
I asked.
Hell, no. Up here, that’s like a badge of pride, eh?
He slammed the hood of his Jeep and started it up.
That’s kind of what I thought,
I said.
That night in camp we had a moose to celebrate and some beers to drink. And something I’ve known for years was confirmed once again: Hunt camps full of rednecks are universally good places to be.—W.B.
SMALL GAME
This is where it all started for so many of us. Hotfooting after rabbits. Chasing after squirrels. The brushpile kicking in hopes of stirring up a pheasant or quail. Hunting small game is how we honed our craft—learned to shoot, track, and drift through the woods like smoke.
It’s a crying shame that so many folks think of small-game hunting as nothing more than kid stuff. All those hunts that were such fun in our youth are just as fun today—and you don’t need to carry a treestand on your back to do any of them.
Hopefully the tips, techniques, and dirty tricks that follow will get you back out in the field—or keep you there—chasing all those pocket-size critters that can produce some awfully big memories. After all, there’s nothing small about the pride that comes from cooking up a squirrely pot of Brunswick stew. —T.E.N.
001 KNOW YOUR SQUIRREL DOGS
Along with a flintlock and black iron pans, a treeing dog was an essential part of the pioneer’s kit. A dog that could herd a milk cow, bay a hog, and tree a squirrel was as necessary as a hoe or adze. Various lines of curs and feists have spread across Redneck America. In squirrel season they still get it done. Here are some of the most well known.
TREEING FEIST Weighing less than 30 pounds, these small dogs are easy to handle, and you can fit more than one in a dog box. Feists tend to hunt close and use their eyes more than a cur, and they’ll timber the squirrel a little quicker. Many hunt quietly, making it easy to hear what other hunters are saying and where they’re moving.
MOUNTAIN CUR A mountain cur works a bit like a Treeing Walker Coonhound or a pocket-size bloodhound—climbing fallen trees, poking a snout into every knothole, burrowing into thickets. They tend to range farther than feists and to run a track by scent. When they tree, they’re up on the trunk, staying tight and barking plenty, like a hound.
BLACKMOUTH CUR These are larger dogs, from 40 to 90 pounds, and they almost always have a black mask around a squarish muzzle, with the black color extending onto the gums and roof of the mouth. The Black Mouth Cur has amazing winding ability. It’ll walk on its two hind legs, like a kangaroo, with its nose in the air trying to smell a squirrel.
002 CALL SQUIRRELS WITH STUFF IN YOUR JUNK DRAWER
In his historic 1984 research paper on squirrel vocabulary, Dr. Robert Lishak identified four different alarm vocalizations—the buzz, kuk, quaa, and moan. But squirrels have cussed me out using no fewer than 83 potty-mouthed slurs, so four strikes me as a bit low.
There are lots of squirrel calls on the market, but no one in their right mind would shell out hard-earned money when these three junk-drawer objects will do the trick.
TOY SQUEAKER The small plastic bulb inside a squeaky dog toy can imitate the distress call of a young squirrel. That racket, in turn, draws other squirrels that are concerned or just plain curious. Use the toy squeaker early in the season, when young squirrels are still plentiful.
BOLT AND WASHER Cutter calls involve a ridged rod and a striker, and replicate the sound of a squirrel working on a tough nut. For the rod, try threaded plastic bolts, metal bolts, or even the brass bolts that hold toilet seats in place. Cutter calls are killer after you’ve been busted. Sit quietly for 10 minutes, then lure the squirrel back into the open.
SPARE CHANGE The clink-clank of a couple coins can turn a squirrel inside out with curiosity. Rub the ridged edges of two quarters together to make a nut-cutting sound. Poker chips are even louder. Or hold a quarter and a penny between your thumb and forefinger and rasp them together in short, quick movements. The sound is amazingly similar to a squirrel going hog wild on a hickory nut. —T.E.N.
003 BARK A SQUIRREL
It’s true: Redneck wannabe John James Audubon once saw Daniel Boone—America’s first and original redneck—bark
a squirrel in ol’ Kaintuck, and, soon after, every pioneer in the backcountry was trying to knock tree rats senseless. The idea is simple: A .50-caliber slug would pulverize a squirrel, so by striking the tree branch just below the critter’s noggin, the bark and branch shrapnel half-brains the squirrel, and keeps it fit for the pot. Barking a squirrel became the mark of a sharpshooter, and still is. Here’s how to do it.
USE ENOUGH GUN A .22 will likely not provide enough concussive power, so try barking squirrels with a deer gun. To really test your mettle against the frontiersmen, go with a .32-caliber blackpowder rifle.
DELIVER SOME CHIN MUSIC Aim at the tree branch directly under the squirrel’s head. Try to place the bullet so that it hits the branch above its centerline. That way, it will splinter the branch rather than become embedded in the wood.
HUSTLE UP Be ready to hoof it to the tree to fully dispatch your dazed squirrel. A pocketknife will do the trick.
004 MAKE A SQUIRREL TOTE
From a simple wire coat hanger, you can make a couple of game totes that will work for squirrels and rabbits alike. Here’s how.
STEP 1 Using needle-nose pliers with cutters, snip the hanger about 6 inches from either bend on both the top and bottom sides of the hanger (you’ll now have the makings for two totes).
STEP 2 The bottom will be straight wire, and you’ll want to leave it as such. Bend the end of the top wire into an inch-long open loop, so that you can hook it around the bottom wire.
STEP 3 Using a small mill-bastard (I love that word) file, sharpen the straight end to a point.
STEP 4 When you kill a squirrel, open the tote, run the point through the skin between the tendons and bones of the rear legs, and then hook the tote shut.
005 PIMP YOUR .22
A dear uncle gave me my first gun, a J.C. Higgins Model 31 tube-fed .22 he bought at Sears. I shot it for years, but one .22 is never enough. Right now, my current rimfire love is the equivalent of a trophy wife with a loyalty card at the plastic surgeon’s office: a Ruger 10/22 pimped to the max. Still, it’s not so showy that you’d feel stupid unsheathing it at your granddaddy’s farm.—T.E.N.
LAMINATED STOCK With grain in their multiple layers of wood running in different directions, laminated stocks offer high strength and resistance to warping.
DROP-IN TRIGGER Replacing the 10/22’s famously unimpressive factory trigger is a snap. Timney’s one-piece, aircraft-grade aluminum drop-in trigger is set at a crisp 2¾ pounds with no creep.
DEDICATED RIMFIRE SCOPE The 50-yard parallax setting on the Nikon Prostaff 3–9×40 BDC 150 gives a squirrel hunter tack-sharp focus, while the BDC reticle is calibrated for .22 Long Rifle ammo.
VOLQUARTSEN CARBON FIBER BARREL At a short 16 ½ inches, and just 23 ounces in weight, the carbon fiber barrel shroud is put together with tension at both the muzzle and chamber ends. For long walks in the woods, it’s the squirrel’s pajamas.
PARACORD SLING Sandstorm Custom Rifle Slings weaves some of the best paracord slings around. Mine is in a standard weave for a supple feel, but the double cobra and king cobra designs are pretty sweet, too.
006 GO PRONE FOR TREE TOPPERS
When I hunted with Mac English, the patriarch of South Carolina squirrel dogging, he was 77 years old and still going strong. English and his brother developed a funky shooting stance that enabled them to smack squirrels from the tippy-tops of big oaks when there were no other trees to serve as a rifle rest. In English’s unorthodox prone position, your upper arm and entire upper body are in solid contact with the ground, bolstered by a bent leg that serves as an outrigger.
STEP 1 With your rifle in your left hand, lie on your right side. Keep your right thigh in a straight line with your torso, and bend your right knee so that your right foot points back at 90 degrees.
STEP 2 Cross your left leg over the right, placing your left foot just above the right knee joint or across the right knee and on the ground. Put the rifle to your shoulder, keeping the upper right arm on the ground. Hold the fore-end in your left hand; keep that hand firmly on your left knee.
STEP 3 Make minor adjustments by shifting the left knee slightly, keeping solid contact between the left leg and the right knee joint (or ground) at all times.—T.E.N.
007 EAT SQUIRREL BRAINS
Squirrel brains are a Southern delicacy. After skinning your squirrels, simply cut off the heads, pluck out the eyeballs, and fry the heads whole in a skillet. Then, use a fork to flip open the skullcap like the lid of a Zippo lighter. The brain is white, about the size of a pecan, and has a mild flavor—you know, like most any brain.
The New York Times once put out a report linking squirrel-brain breakfasts to Creutzfeldt-Jakob disease—a type of encephalopathy. The research was conducted by a Kentucky doctor and documented in a dozen or so cases, but dismissed by most ardent brain eaters I know. Far more people, they claimed, have gone crazy living in New York City.—W.B.
WHAT THE #*&! IS A WARBLE
It’s the nastiest thing on God’s green Earth: a fingernail-size, goo-oozing lesion sometimes found on the skin of an early-season squirrel. Each one is filled with the black grublike larvae of a botfly, and squirrels can be so lumped up that they look like a gray bag of marbles. The larvae hatch in late summer, and the gross boils are largely healed by the first frost. These so-called warbles
or wolves
are skin parasites only and don’t affect the meat—although you’d have to be one tough customer to stew up such a lumpy squirrel.
008 SELL A LITTLE TAIL FOR POCKET MONEY
You probably won’t be able to buy mama a new truck by selling squirrel tails to Mepps, but the lure company does pay hard cash for high-quality tails, which it uses to manufacture some of the best-selling in-line spinners on the planet. No joke. Mepps buys tens of thousands of squirrel tails each year from hunters and entrepreneurial roadkill pickers. Expect to earn between 16¢ and 26¢ per tail. Or, if you’re filthy rich and don’t need the extra scratch, Mepps will double your money in trade-in value for new lures. Yet another reason why America is the greatest country on Earth.
HELL, I CAN SKIN THAT!
SQUIRRELS
Ounce for ounce, there is no North American critter tougher to skin than a big squirrel. The size of a mature boar’s tackle is indicative of the task ahead. The bigger they are, the tougher he’ll be. A squirrel’s skin is thick, tough, and covered in fur that seems to be magnetically drawn to squirrel meat. But, with the correct technique, you can remove a squirrel’s hide in less than a minute while keeping the meat clean and sweet. Here’s how.
BREAK THE TAIL Cut around the base of the tailbone, just above the butthole (rednecks don’t say anus
). Twist and break the tailbone, but leave it attached to the hide.
MAKE GUIDE CUTS With your knife’s edge turned upward, make a one-inch incision from the tail along the top of each hind leg. Skin this section away from the squirrel until you have a flap large enough to stand on with your boot.
PUT YOUR FOOT DOWN Lay the squirrel top side down on a piece of wood (or any clean, flat surface) and place your boot on that skin flap, using the squirrel’s tailbone to keep it from slipping. Grab both hind legs at the ankles and slowly but deliberately pull the carcass away from the hide. The skin should easily peel off over the head and front legs.
GET TO THE POINT Done right, you’ll be left with skin on the back legs that extends to a point on the belly. While holding the squirrel under the shoulders with one hand, grab that point with the other hand and pull. Your newly hide-less squirrel is now ready to gut or quarter for the frying pan.
009 MAKE A CAJUN SQUIRREL SKINNER
Once you become a squirrel-killing machine and the critters start piling up, you might find that you want a more efficient way to process them. I witnessed this little trick device help my Cajun pals clean a washtub full of squirrels in no time flat.
STEP 1 The first step is to make the skinner, using the template shown here to cut and bend a 6½x3¾-inch piece of -inch aluminum plate. Nail the squirrel skinner to a tree or post at shoulder height. Now you’re ready to rumble. Hook the squirrel’s rear legs in the two narrow slots with its back facing you.
STEP 2 Bend the tail over the squirrel’s back and make a cut between the butthole and the base of the tail, through the skin and tailbone. Extend this cut about an inch down the backbone and then down each side of the squirrel another inch, just in front of the thighs.
STEP 3 Next, grasp the tail and loosened hide, and pull down. The hide should shuck off inside out, except for a strip on the belly and the back legs.
STEP 4 Flip the squirrel over and place its neck in the wide slot and its front paws in the two narrow slots. Grasp the remaining hide and strip the pants
off the squirrel.—T.E.N.
010 PRESERVE A SQUIRREL TAIL
Be honest: Who wouldn’t want an awesome squirrel tail hanging from their rearview mirror? Just make sure you do it this way, because nobody wants a skanky squirrel tail stinking up their ride.
Make a slit at the base of the tail, grasp the bone with pliers or a paper towel, and very gently pull and push the furry part of the tail off the bone. Scrape away as much fat and meat as you can reach, then sprinkle 20 Mule Team borax on the flesh. Insert a straw into the tail and pour in as much borax as possible. Insert a thin wire, stitch up the opening, and hang it in a cool, dry place for a week or two.
011 TAKE A BUNNY STAND
Sometimes the cartoons are right—a wascally wabbit may not sing opera, but it really will run in circles. That means that its habit of looping back to the very patch of ground where it was jumped is the chink in its armor. When the dogs jump a bunny, find a good place to take a stand, but know that its return could take anywhere from five minutes to half an hour. But don’t wait on the dogs—the rabbit could return well in front of the pack. Here are a few additional tips.
HOG THE ROAD Logging and farm roads are a perfect ambush. The trick: Put your back to the brush so you’re looking across the road and into the woods where the rabbit is running. Often, you’ll see it tiptoe to the edge before making the final dash.
TAKE A KNEE Deep-woods cottontails like to find the occasional opening where they can turn on the afterburners. Get down on one knee in a stretch of open timber. You’ll be able to see the rabbit coming and still swing on the animal as it passes.
PATROL THE BORDER Bunnies often squirt out of the thick stuff for a short burst of speed, so post up on open edges between fields and woods.
WATCH THE EDGE Interior woods edges between pine thickets and more open hardwoods are great spots to snipe rabbits dashing out of cover.
012 BUILD A RABBIT GUM
For the last hundred years, any country bumpkin worth his snuff has run a line of rabbit gums to keep the family in fried bunny. Early settlers used fire to hollow out black gum logs for their bunny traps, hence the name, but rabbit gums today are made of plank wood or old barn