The Napoleonic Wars
By Tony Harwood
5/5
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About this ebook
Any miniature wargame is greatly enhanced by realistic and evocative scenery and buildings, but commercial ready-made pieces can be expensive. Building your own can be a cost-effective and very rewarding alternative, another hobby in itself, but it can be hard to know where to start. Wargames Terrain and Buildings is a series of books aimed at giving wargamers the skills, techniques and guidance they need to create their own stunning and practical model buildings.
In this volume, master modeler Tony Hardwood shares his years of experience and presents the reader with a wide range of projects for the Napoleonic era. With the aid of step-by-step photographs, he guides the reader through building and finishing each of these models, which are organized in three sections of increasing complexity and encompass a range of scales and different materials. Nine projects are included but the techniques and skills demonstrated along the way, along with valuable advice on tools, construction materials and paints, can be adapted and applied to a much wider range of structures to grace your battlefields.
“This book is marvelous in so many ways. The construction of the example buildings and other structures is described step-by-step with clear photographs of each . . . The construction process is straightforward and includes some great combinations of techniques that make so much sense.” —The Chauvinistic Blog
“[A] little masterpiece . . . All in all, a superb book.” —Vintage Airfix
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- Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5Please make more of these, they are pretty useful for inspiration.
Book preview
The Napoleonic Wars - Tony Harwood
free!
15mm RUSSIAN WINDMILL
1.1
15MM RUSSIAN WINDMILL
WORKING WITH STRIP WOOD
Inspiration
For many years, I had planned to scratch build a traditional wooden or Russian windmill, but had never got around to starting it. This model was inspired by some colour images in a book called Architecture of the Russian North, a Russian language book published by Aurora Art Publishing (Leningrad, 1976), full of photographs of now long-forgotten wooden structures, plus some Google image searches on the internet. One of the main reasons for putting off such an undertaking is the sheer size of the model—in 28mm, it would tower over the rest of my gaming table.
While planning this book, I wanted to show a wide range of models built to different scales—a Russian windmill in 15mm would be much more manageable, but even so, this model would still be 200mm tall.
Construction
After producing a simple sketch as a guide, I started with some corrugated cardboard. The individual pieces were cut out and glued together with my hot glue gun.
I added strips of torn newspaper which were glued in place with PVA glue.
The base had a second layer of corrugated cardboard added to the lower edges and a balsa wood plug to the top.
I then cut strips of scrap wood into 4mm x 4mm lengths. The wood was picked up free of charge from a local food market—it was once used to transport tangerines. I find that this low quality wood produces superb textures when cut, split and sanded.
These strips were superglued around the cardboard core to produce the alternating, stacked bases of these wooden giants. You should also see how I have used green foam to add shorter sections to the stack. Notice how I have not tried to clean up the exposed edges. This effect will ‘pop’ when painted and particularly when drybrushed.
The staggered layers continued up the base or tower until I got to about 60mm tall. At this stage, I started to add the wooden strips across the top of the tower and then added a second layer across the first. Once again, construction was done with superglue.
A similar technique could be used to build a Roman brazier or an American Civil War watchtower/signal tower.
I have used DAS modelling clay to fill the gaps between the wooden strips. Remember to apply DAS over a layer of PVA glue. Then a section of (red) knitting needle was first glued and then sandwiched with more wooden strips and DAS.
I have purposely added the DAS in a rough manner, as this is how I would have expected it to have been applied on the original windmill base.
The upper mill was clad with strips of coloured lollipop sticks—for some reason, coloured lollipop sticks are cheaper than plain wood lollipop sticks, so I pick up craft packs or bulk packs of the coloured ones. After all, once painted, no one will know. The lollipop sticks have been given additional texture by scraping with the teeth of a razor saw and then cut freehand, rather than using a straight edge, which would have made them look too uniform.
When the base and the mill are brought together, you can begin to see the effect I was looking for.
The mill was further detailed with more lollipop sticks and Milliput epoxy putty. I have used green foam to model the doorway and split lollipop sticks for the walkway; the wooden strips for the supports under the mill were left over from building the tower base.
The roofs on typical Russian b u i l d i n g s— at least, the ones made of wood—have a shallow, sloping angle and are constructed of wooden boards. I used more of the lollipop sticks yet again to depict this, whilst allowing for the smaller scale.
An additional strip of wood was run along the ridge of the roof and extra strips were added to run from the ridge, down the roof. This feature is seen on many Russian buildings.
I filled any gaps with DAS, then built the lean-to from strip wood and lollipop sticks. I constructed the base from 3mm thick plastic card and built up the groundwork with DAS. I added a trimmed cocktail stick to the top of the base and drilled a hole in the bottom of the mill to act as a pin or swivel. I am still not sure if I will glue these two pieces together or leave them free to revolve.
Detailing
The base was textured with sieved stones, coarse sand and then fine sand. The items of clutter came from my spares box—I chose them with great care to make sure that they were in keeping with the smaller 15mm size. The mill now has a sail spar added although, at this stage, it is not glued in place but just supported on a cocktail stick axle. The mill and base stand 160mm tall.
I have added tiny nails to the model. These were cut from slivers of plastic card and applied over drops of superglue with the point of a scalpel. I try to add similar surface detail to most of my terrain as I believe it adds interest to the model when painted. I do not try to add every single nail or rivet but just the impression—I think of it as a Dampfpanzerwagon
trait and like adding clutter to my bases. It can be seen on many of my scratch-built or customised models.
Additional detailing was constructed from more scrap wood.
The Sails
The windmill’s wooden sails were constructed from balsa wood. I had thought about making them from plastic card, but the balsa wood was so much easier to work with (although very fragile). I sketched out a simple plan and made all four sails at the same time.
The balsa wood was textured by sanding with some coarse sandpaper and carving with a scalpel. I used superglue to construct the sails and glued them in place on the main axle with a thin piece of wire to pin the sail arms in place.
Once I was happy with the sails, I undercoated the model with a black/dark brown mix, which was applied with a medium-sized brush. I damaged one of the spars during undercoating and had to make a cocktail stick splint to repair the damage. At this stage, the model is still in three pieces, the base, the mill and the