Living Within the Wild: Personal Stories & Beloved Recipes from Alaska
By Kirsten Dixon and Mandy Dixon
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About this ebook
Living Within the Wild features over 100 original recipes, accompanied by personal stories and stunning photographs, to illustrate the lives of one Alaska family that has learned to live well amidst the intense but scenic backcountry of Alaska.
James Beard Foundation Semifinalist, Outstanding Hospitality (for Tutka Bay Lodge, Homer, AK)
Finalist, 2022 IACP Cookbook Award, Culinary Travel
"When I stayed five nights at Winterlake Lodge in Alaska, I looked forward to my breakfast, lunch, and dinner to see what delicious creations chef Mandy Dixon would serve me and my crew. She did not disappoint and these dishes are all in her terrific new cookbook, Living Within the Wild. Some are so good, I just might steal them and put in my next cookbook. Don't worry, I'll give Mandy the credit."
—Nancy Silverton, James Beard Award–winning chef, author, co-owner of Pizzeria Mozza
The Dixons have been running award-winning adventure lodges in Alaska for over thirty years, celebrating the bounty that the land has to offer with guests from around the world. Their lodges and restaurants are known not just for the rare adventures and incredible views of the Alaskan wilderness, but also for appealing dishes created from the freshest local seafood and produce.
Chefs Kirsten and Mandy Dixon’s combined culinary experience has been recognized nationally and internationally, from cooking at the famed James Beard House in New York City to serving private dinners for National Geographic guests. In this book, mother and daughter offer their favorite recipes, featured on their menus at the lodges and café but specially recreated for the home chef’s kitchen. They also share their unique experiences of life at the lodges—from embracing entrepreneurial challenges to working with family, to sharing the deep purpose and meaning in living in the natural world and wilderness.
Chapters are organized thematically, weaving through stories about the seasonal shifts that make this women-run business unique. A final chapter honors the men in Kirsten and Mandy's lives by sharing quick profiles along with a favorite recipe.
From your own kitchen, learn to make delicious dishes such as Black Bean Reindeer Chili or King Salmon Bowl with Miso Dressing; snack on Dried Tomato Sesame Cookies, or dine on Smoked Caramel Blueberry Brownies. And along the way, experience a sense of backcountry Alaska through the flavors of seasonal and regional ingredients as the Dixons welcome you into their secret world in the remote wilderness.
Kirsten Dixon
Kirsten Dixon is an internationally recognized chef and cookbook author. Early in her career, she was named one of the Ten Best Chefs by Pacific Northwest magazine and one of the Ten Best New Chefs by Esquire. In 1992, she was selected as a James Beard Foundation Special Events Chef. Later she was named a "Culinary Legend" by the House of Blues and Alive Culinary Resources.
Read more from Kirsten Dixon
The Tutka Bay Lodge Cookbook: Coastal Cuisine from the Wilds of Alaska Rating: 0 out of 5 stars0 ratingsThe Alaska Homegrown Cookbook: The Best Recipes from the Last Frontier Rating: 5 out of 5 stars5/5The Winterlake Lodge Cookbook: Culinary Adventures in the Alaskan Wilderness Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5
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Living Within the Wild - Kirsten Dixon
A BLINK OF AN EYE
A NOTE FROM KIRSTEN
When we first married, Carl owned an Alaska river-rafting company. He would return from long trips to our home in Anchorage and tell me stories about his adventures—the blueberries along the banks of a particular river, the fishing, or what food he cooked over the campfire in the evenings. One night, while we were dreaming out loud to each other, we made the decision to seek a life lived close to nature. I wanted a garden with carrots that my babies could pull up from the ground, and Carl wanted to teach his children how to fish for salmon.
At that time, I was working in the ICU at the native hospital in Anchorage and Carl also had an audiology practice that required him to travel throughout Alaska. We wanted more time together. We wanted to live in the bright middle of life, where people were happy and eating together at the table, living robustly. The weight of working with critically ill or injured people, many facing the end of life, was too difficult for me to bear.
In the fall of 1983, we climbed into a float-equipped Cessna-206 airplane. I was two months pregnant. Along with our one-year old baby Carly, a black Labrador named Duncan, a broom and mop, and boxes of food, we headed out on our big adventure. The first snow had just begun to fall as we quietly glided onto the Yentna River, about 45 minutes north of Anchorage by air. We had found a piece of land to buy. We were going to make our living by starting a guest lodge.
That first winter, Carl and I led the simple uncomplicated lives we had been dreaming of. During the day, I kept the woodstove going and Carly fed while Carl worked on what would become the main building of the lodge we would open the next summer. In the evening, after the dishes were done, by the yellow glow of a kerosene lantern, we planned our new lives together.
In the depth of that winter, when the snow had fallen up to the windowsills, I would sink all the way up to my large and heavy belly if I walked off the trail. One day, there were people traveling along the river in a 100-mile cross-country ski race, then called the Iditaski. Racers stopped in to warm up and examine their gear. I baked them a blueberry pie.
We wanted to live in the bright middle of life, where people were happy and eating together at the table, living robustly.
One racer happened to be a midwife and, as she ate her pie, she learned I hadn’t had any medical care for my pregnancy. She had me lie down on the living room floor and she palpated the baby’s position. She told me the baby was breech and she showed me special positions to sleep in to encourage the baby to turn.
In the springtime, in April, during the time of year when the river was jammed with ice that was too soft to land on, an old 1940s Piper PA-12 airplane landed on the tiny strip of sandbar in front of our cabin, with signs of spring already emerging everywhere out from the long winter. A friend hopped out and told me he was taking me to Anchorage right then and there. I was making him too nervous. Mandy was born two days later in the back bedroom of another friend’s home. Our little family flew back to the river the next day. Carl had finished building our main log lodge he had worked on all winter and we moved out of our cabin and into our new home.
When Mandy was a newborn, I kept her in the crook of a Danish lounge chair just near the open-room kitchen where I worked. She was always swaddled up tightly and I would flip her over every so often. I would sit in the chair to feed and rock her. When Carly and Mandy were a little older, I’d put them both in highchairs and give them each a bowl of mashed potatoes to occupy themselves as I cooked. Mandy literally grew up in a kitchen.
Eating well, enjoying life, meeting incredible people, being proud of our daughters, laughing all the time—these are our rich rewards.
The years went by and the girls grew older. They learned to fish. They could spin-cast and fly-cast. They held bloody beating salmon hearts in their hands. They drove boats as well as any fishing guide. They chopped kindling and kept a woodstove going.
We homeschooled Carly and Mandy over the long winters and they worked in the garden and in my kitchen through the summers. Mandy graduated from homeschool at seventeen years old, first in her class (and the only person in her class—it’s a favorite family joke), and she immediately zoomed out of the state in a newly bought but slightly used Dodge Neon, down the Alaska Highway through Canada and off to California. Some years later, she returned home to her family business, to my deep relief. We’ve been cooking together ever since.
I’ve been collecting, curating, and writing recipes in some form or other my entire life. As a young girl I spent hours in the library reading through dusty volumes of people long gone, enjoying their stories of fêtes and feasts. Also, I always loved exotic cookbooks written by expats in faraway lands. I imagined the author and me dining together, talking about the day, the weather, or spices and herbs. I was hungry for communal nurturing and for a global understanding of others through their foodways. I carry that love and the love of culinary literature of all kinds to this day.
The past forty years together, first with Carl and then our small family, has gone by so quickly, seemingly in a blink of an eye. Carl and I are proud of how we have lived, how we have worked hard, and how we have served our guests and nurtured our family. Eating well, enjoying life, meeting incredible people, being proud of our daughters, laughing all the time—these are our rich rewards.
Writing about food isn’t just scratching a recipe onto a grocery slip or transposed from the back of a can. It’s documentation of our having been here, of having lived. It’s the written witness of our times—for the hope of those meals we will prepare together in the future. Writing about food is an intimate conversation occurring between one cook and another through time and space. This collection of stories and recipes represents just a blink of time during our lives at Winterlake Lodge, Tutka Bay Lodge, and La Baleine Café, with the Dixon family.
AN IMMEASURABLE LIFE
A NOTE FROM MANDY
I grew up on a riverbank in a remote part of Alaska—no roads, no television, no Internet, no running water. But salmon and other fish filled our rivers, and our garden was full of giant vegetables from the midnight summer sun. Our water was clean and pure and cold, pumped straight from the ground. My playground was an endless forest of imagined castles and kingdoms.
My family lived above the main room of the little fishing lodge my parents built the year before I was born. Riversong Lodge is on the banks of the Yentna River, a glacial stream fed by beautiful winding rivers, big and small, known for abundant salmon. We hosted guests from around the world who would fish with my dad, and eat meals my mother would cook for them.
The summers for my sister and me were filled with fishing, driving boats up fast-moving rivers, navigating the woods with no trails, learning to forage edibles, and taking care of the garden. There were a handful of other families that lived along the river with kids the same age as us. We all knew how to drive a boat at seven years old and how to fix the boat’s engine by our ninth birthdays. We loved to meet up on hot summer days and play on the glacial silt beaches of the river.
In the winters, we guided guests for skiing and snow machine rides, and we served as a checkpoint for a few human-powered races. But they were much quieter seasons. My family stayed warm in the log cabin, which was heated with a wood-fired stove. My dad taught me to cut down trees and how to make kindling to start fires properly. My mother taught me how to make bordelaise sauce.
My sister and I were homeschooled through the State of Alaska Correspondence school program. We were sent packets of schoolwork through the mail each month, and we’d drive a snow machine seventeen miles up the river to the post office to retrieve them. We had subjects in math and science, history, and literature. We learned social studies, music, and P.E. We both took French language and art as our electives. It was at our own pace, and there were no rigid school times or loud bells ringing to signal when it was time to play or eat. We did have a routine, and my parents were fairly strict with chores and staying on track with our schoolwork. And we did. I graduated from high school a year early and then went on to culinary school. But that’s a story for another time.
My playground was an endless forest of imagined castles and kingdoms.
Winters were quiet with just my family at the lodge. Shoveling the roofs of the cabins and keeping things from freezing were big chores. When spring came around, and the river ice began to break up, we would hire a small team of guides, housekeepers, dishwashers, and cooks to help us with the busy summer season.
When I was little, I used to be afraid of the chefs in the summer kitchen. They always seemed to be rushing around with hot pots of bubbling liquids or chopping something fiercely with a large sharp knife.
I walked around, shoeless most of the summer with dirt-stained, thick-skinned soles. Being barefoot, of course, was a problem for entering the sacred kitchen area where the cookie dough was kept. I became an expert at stealing cookie dough balls until one day I was caught by my mom, who was cooking in the kitchen. She grabbed my hand and said, gotcha!
I was so scared that I was going to be grounded for the rest of the summer season. Then she released my hand and said with a calm voice and a smile, Would you like to learn how to make them? You will have to put some shoes on and wash your hands first.
I was relieved and excited to be able to learn from the big, scary chefs. My mom helped me to be comfortable in the kitchen environment and how to work and learn with these chefs—chefs that stayed with us as guests, chefs that worked or interned in our kitchens, or chef-friends of my mother’s who would come to visit and cook with us. Eventually, I was in charge of making cookie doughs and then desserts, and, finally, I was old enough to go to culinary school to gain even more of a culinary foundation for my life as a professional chef.
I wish everyone could experience the immeasurable life I’ve been fortunate to live in Alaska.
I am thankful to have created this book with my mother. She is always the first to support me in anything I do and the first to inspire me to dream big and dare to fail. While working on the last cookbook together in 2013, we were devastated to learn Kirsten was diagnosed with triple-negative breast cancer, an aggressive cancer that required surgery and chemotherapy right away. My mother had a difficult summer, feeling ill and losing all her hair, but she stayed grounded in writing the book and testing recipes with me. Kirsten stayed in the land of the living,
as she would say. And, that she did. She had been cancer-free for six years when we found a new tumor, this time in her brain. It was in February of 2019, and we were well into writing and recipe testing for this book. Again, she would have to be strong, listen to the doctors, listen to her family, face death, and write a cookbook. And again, she did. We decided to undergo a treatment called CyberKnife to eliminate the cancerous tumor, and, lucky for us, there was a trained oncologist in Anchorage with the equipment and training. Again, we went through a difficult summer with an unknown future. Incredibly, and to our great joy, the CyberKnife treatment eradicated the tumor. We are thankful to be moving forward. I believe my parents’ philosophy on life and how they have chosen to live their life in such a creative way has played a significant role in the recovery of my mother.
I appreciate my parents for allowing me to grow up in an amazingly rich environment, rich with great people teaching me lessons in life all along the way. Rich with a caring family that is proud, adventurous, and nurturing. Rich with adventure every single day.
I wish everyone could experience the immeasurable life I’ve been fortunate to live in Alaska. I hope everyone could step on a mountain where no human has stepped before, have an entire frozen, snowless lake for their private iceskating rink, or ride behind a silent dog team gliding through the woods as it snows. The stories and recipes in this book will help you step into our world a bit. Perhaps one day you, too, will find your way to this magical part of the world.
OUR KITCHEN PHILOSOPHY
Our recipes are snapshots in time and place. They are the stories of the moment we share with you, but likely, even by the time you are reading this, we’ve evolved and changed in some subtle ways in what we are fascinated with, what we’ve learned through travel and experiences, and how we present our food. But a few things hold true in our kitchen:
TELL A STORY: The dishes we share mean something to us. They hold some memory, or flavor or feeling, or perhaps even a dream we’ve had that we want to convey to our guests. We are communicating the story of our experiences with others. We want others to feel
our love of the place where we live through our food like they might through a poem or a story or a song.
HUMILITY SETS US FREE: We aren’t above anyone in our understanding of food or cooking. We are in service to those we feed. Food can be used as a cultural symbol of who people are, what status they hold, and even what they believe in religiously. For our family, we’ve lived most of our lives far from these social dictates. We have been able to work hard against the backdrop of wildness not found elsewhere in the world. And, that has given us a rare kind of freedom.
ORGANIC, AS WE CAN: For a long time now, we make an effort to cook with natural, whole foods. It’s easy to grow organically in Alaska. The soil in much of our inhabited state is fertile and free from pesticides and pests. As the world warms up, this might begin to change, but for now, we hardly amend our soil at all at the two lodges. The politics of food can be confusing, and choices about what to eat can be overwhelming. We have found the Environmental Working Group (EWG.com) to be a useful resource in deciphering some of the issues about what to buy absolutely organic and what may not be as necessary. We always buy, grow, or forage organic berries, cherries, strawberries, spinach, greens, and apples. We also use only organic tomatoes, potatoes, and celery. We aren’t as fussed about buying organic cabbage, broccoli, or mushrooms. If you are looking for guidelines, find the annually updated list at EWG’s website. And, we are reminded from time to time that just because something is labeled organic
doesn’t necessarily mean it is worth our trust, just as some things grown without an organic certification could be perfectly healthy and pesticide-free.
GROW OR HUNT OR GATHER AS WE CAN: Growing some part of our own food is essential to us, even if it is as small as a windowsill herb pot. We are lucky enough to have high tunnels,
greenhouses that we fill with herbs, tomatoes, and other culinary treasures that extend our growing seasons on both ends of our short, intense summers. We always have a few beds we dedicate to micro-greens for salads and garnishes. Most Alaskans seem to participate and take pride in some aspect of responsible food-gathering, whether it is dip-netting for salmon in the summer or taking a moose in the fall. We, as a family, and we, as Alaskans, have a strong undercurrent of self-reliance that is important in our food culture.
KEEP A CREATIVE PANTRY: Perhaps it reflects how we have lived for so long, but even in Anchorage, we both have significant pantry and food storage spaces. At Kirsten’s house, it is an old walk-in closet near the back door that has been converted to hold shelves of dry goods, canned goods, and preserves (plus one shelf always filled with snacks for a young grandson). In the garage, we have metal racks that hold items bound for either one of the lodges or the café. At Mandy’s condo, she has converted an empty bedroom into organized storage. We both adore any sort of pantry recipes like butters and chutneys, jams, jellies, and jars of this and bottles of that. We like a gleaming row of colorful glass jars filled with memories of our summers that we can open and share during our long winters.
NO SINGLE-USE PLASTICS: We began to get serious in the spring of 2019 to try to go plastic-free in all of our kitchens. That’s not an easy ambition. We buy reusable, whimsical grocery bags from the Japanese grocery store in Seattle called Uwajimaya and a grocery store called Foodland in Honolulu. (Try to get your hands on some of these ever-changing and artistic collectible bags.) We love those deli-cups with good-fitting lids and plastic wrap for food storage, but we are saying goodbye to all single-use plastics in our lives. You’ll notice lots of references to kitchen towels in this book vs. plastic wrap in our previous books. We no longer serve water in disposable plastic bottles or use plastic straws. These are small measures, we know, but they are important ones to move us forward to eliminating plastics in our lives.
SUPPORT OUR NEIGHBORS: There