The Bourbon Bartender: 50 Cocktails to Celebrate the American Spirit
By Jane Danger, Alla Lapushchik and Clay Risen
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About this ebook
Made in America and aged in charred new American oak barrels, bourbon is the quintessential US spirit—but the best part is mixing it up into tasty drinks. Here are the best of the best. Whiskey experts Jane Danger and Alla Lapushchik offer timeless classics and forgotten gems, such as the Old Fashioned and the Boulevardier, as well as cutting-edge craft concoctions, including the Brown Derby and Paper Plane. They also serve up a short history of bourbon, tips for making delicious infusions and syrups, sidebars chronicling bourbon’s influence on American culture, short profiles of the country’s best bourbon-focused bars, and a calendar of bourbon festivals and events—everything a bourbon lover could want.
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The Bourbon Bartender - Jane Danger
INTRODUCTION
A SHORT HISTORY OF BOURBON
From America’s earliest beginnings, settlers came to these shores with a raging thirst. John Alden, a cooper, sailed aboard the Mayflower to tend to the ship’s precious barrels. When he came to the New World, John Winthrop, governor of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, brought 10,000 gallons of beer, 120 hogsheads of malt for brewing, and 12 gallons of hot waters,
or ardent spirits. Even for the dour Puritans, drink was a gift from God. They expected no one to toil without refreshment.
By 1629 the Virginia Colony had two brewhouses. Boston established its first malt house in 1637. Willem Kieft, director general of the New Netherland Colony, was distilling grain—probably corn or rye—
by 1640. But New World colonists had difficulty re-creating the drinks of the Old World. Climates differed, and the European ingredients weren’t available. Colonists began fermenting whatever they had on hand to satisfy their thirst, including apples, bran, currants, elderberries, fir needles, hemlock, Jerusalem artichokes, parsnips, peaches, pears, pine buds, pine chips, roasted corn, and sassafras roots. Cider became especially popular. To concentrate cider, New Englanders put containers of it outdoors in cold weather, waited for it to freeze, and then skimmed off the ice. By 1668, William Laird, a Scottish distiller plying his trade in Monmouth County, New Jersey, was making apple brandy, thereby establishing one of America’s oldest distilleries (known today as Laird & Company).
But rum reigned as king. New England—one of the corners of the lucrative molasses trade (slaves, sugar, rum)—boasted 159 rum distilleries in 1770. In smaller amounts, the colonists also made whiskey from rye. Then the War of Independence halted the triangular trade among America, Britain, and the Caribbean, changing the game. As the eighteenth century drew to a close, settlers continued moving inland and turned increasingly to corn, a native grain that held up better than rye, wheat, and other European species. The Whiskey Rebellion of 1791 bears witness to the rising importance of American whiskey. On the western frontier of present-day Kentucky, settlers—including Jacob Beam, Basil Hayden, Robert Samuels, and Daniel Weller, all ancestors of future players in the bourbon world—brought their stills over the Appalachian Mountains.
Farmers had been converting surplus grain into alcohol for centuries (because before modern sanitation it proved safer to drink than water), but in the nineteenth century whiskey making became a vocation in its own right. Soon, alongside tobacco, Kentucky was exporting huge volumes of whiskey, which traveled downriver, taking on its unique characteristics, including the name.
After the Revolutionary War, Kentucky still was part of Virginia. Officials subdivided the district into smaller counties, giving French names to many of them in honor of America’s wartime ally. Fayette County took its name from the marquis de la Fayette, and Bourbon County from the House of Bourbon, led by King Louis XVI of France, who helped finance the rebellion. In these counties, farmer-distillers were making corn whiskey and selling it as an easier way to make a profit than trying to haul corn around. Exports from Bourbon County, which then included a large swath of present-day Kentucky, traveled from the port town of Limestone—Maysville today—down the Ohio River to the Mississippi.
When Kentucky became a state in 1792, Bourbon County split up further. (It originally consisted of 34 modern-day counties.) Despite the new boundaries, people still called the entire region Old Bourbon, and any of the corn whiskey traveling down from Limestone was called Old Bourbon Whiskey. Drinkers on the receiving end developed a taste for the spirit and began asking for it by name. Many of those drinkers lived in New Orleans, which still was part of the French Empire, and noted the similarities between this corn whiskey and their beloved Cognac. Corn distillers, spotting a good marketing opportunity, adopted the name for their corn whiskey no matter where it was made.
Louis XVI, king of France, head of the House of Bourbon, and namesake of Bourbon County, Kentucky.
Maysville, Kentucky, on the Ohio River.
Angered by a 1791 federal tax on whiskey that effectively eliminated their profits, farmers in Pennsylvania both threatened and attacked excise agents.
George Washington, Alexander Hamilton, and others lead federal troops to suppress the Whiskey Rebellion.
Workers at Labrot & Graham’s Old Oscar Pepper Distillery, today the Woodford Reserve Distillery, in Versailles, Kentucky.
Like converting surplus grain into alcohol, the tradition of aging beer, wine, and spirits in wooden barrels stretches far into the past. Brewers, vintners, and distillers all know that wood aging can increase complexity, but bourbon was selling just fine unaged, or green.
By 1814, though, some expressions included age statements. Merchants used barrels to store and transport just about everything, so between uses they often charred the interiors to prevent fishy whiskey and other accidental cross-contamination.
J. H. Cutter whiskey barrels.
With the advent and improvement of the column still in the 1820s and 1830s, capacity increased. As a result, many distillers set aside extra product to avoid flooding the market and driving prices down, but longer storage times pulled barrels from the standard rotation among goods. Cooperages had to make new barrels. Around this time it probably became standard for distillers to age bourbon in new, charred barrels.
Although the consumption of bourbon has varied over time, the methods of making it have remained relatively unchanged for nearly two centuries, but bourbon traveled a long path from the early days of frontier distilling to official status as America’s national spirit. That distinction happened on May 4, 1964. On that date, Congress jointly passed concurrent legislation that US Senator Thurston Morton from Louisville and US Representative John C. Watts from Nicholasville had introduced. Congress established bourbon as a distinctive product of the United States
and defined its legal