Cruise through History of Law in Ports of the World
By Sherry Hutt
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Cruise through History storybooks are collections of short stories grouped by sequence of popular cruise itineraries, into fifteen volumes. As stories move from port to port, they randomly move through time. Stories are all true. They introduce travelers to history and culture of a port through a long-ago, or not so long-ago, re
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Cruise through History of Law in Ports of the World - Sherry Hutt
NATURAL/ENVIRONMENTAL LAW - ORKNEY & SHETLAND ISLANDS
STONES OF TIME
When embarking on travels into realms of people, as they began social organizations, well known are pyramids of Egypt. Lesser known are sites older than the pyramids, such as Newgrange in Ireland. Ancient people left a legacy of dwellings, ceremony sites, and passage graves of stone. Over thousands of years, people repurposed stones, plowed fields, and dispersed evidence of early life.
Few places remain where visitors can peer into ancient homes and appreciate life near the sea thousands of years ago. In Skara Brae, in the Orkney Islands and Jarlshof, in the Shetland Islands, storms in the 19th century uncovered dwellings, where archaeological investigation continued into the 20th century, giving insight to lives of islanders five thousand years ago. In the stones are stories.
Windswept and treeless, northern islands of Orkney and Shetland, fifty miles apart, have populations of less than fifty thousand in total today. It is hard to imagine that five thousand years ago these Northern Islands of Great Britain were thriving with population. Preserved in stone are some of the best stone-age settlement sites in all Europe.
Standing Stones of Stenness and Ring of Brodgar on Orkney are reminiscent of stonehenges throughout England. In Skara Brae and Jarlshof are round, stone dwellings in communities of size seen nowhere else in England. They were occupied as communities fishing, farming, and manufacturing trade goods in cooperative settings.
Shetland and Orkney Island groups have similar histories. Human presence is evidenced from 6800 BCE. The Neolithic, that is Stone Age, settlements date from 3100 BCE. Northern Islands passed from Celtic people in final centuries of the ancient era to control by Romans in the current era, looking for the northern-most point of their world, they called Thule. Romans determined Thule was Shetland. In fact, Romans were accurate. The northernmost point of Great Britain is the Shetland Island of Out Stack.
Vikings came to the Northern Islands in the 9th century. Their island homes provided ports in storms while raiders were out A Viking, looting monasteries and settlements in England. A large percentage of Northern Islanders have Norse heritage. Place names are Norse and Scottish. In the medieval era of nation-building, Northern Islands passed from the Kalmar Union of Norway, Denmark, and Sweden, to Scotland, then to Britain in 1707.
Ancient stones of Skara Brae and Jarlshof begin the story of Great Britain. Ancient people of the islands were remarkable in their ability to live in harsh environment. At Kirkwall in Orkney and Lerwick in Shetland, history is recent, as the world watches the Northern Islands move toward a future as strategic points in the race for ocean resources.
A Little History of the Northern Islands: Shetland and Orkney
Travelers may think of the Northern Islands as remote. Six thousand years ago, when humans swarmed across these islands, remote was any group living more than several islands away. Waters were sources of food, protection from hostile groups, and access to friendly islands. Inter-island trade developed naturally. Commonalities suggest contact.
There are seventy islands in the Orkneys, twenty of which have permanent residents today. There are one hundred islands in the Shetlands, sixteen of which are inhabited today. In ancient times, most of the islands supported human existence.
In the absence of wood, Northern Islanders built shelters of stone. Stone has permanence. Settlements grew, in place, over longer periods of time than farming settlements in lower England. There people moved from field to field, and yet had little contact with people a hundred miles away. Northern Island stone shelters were cooperative settlements.
Six thousand years ago, sea levels were much lower. Some islands were connected. There were trees, abundant vegetation, and wildlife. Trees were cleared for farmland as communities grew, four thousand years ago.²
Early people of the Northern Islands share similarities in stone tool technology with people of Europe, suggesting the islands were populated from Europe. Neolithic people built stone dwellings and farmed, displacing earlier Mesolithic people, who melded into later groups or succumbed to greater forces. Similar questions of destiny exist for Neolithic people, displaced by Celtic groups, of which Picts of Scotland are most prominent. When Romans arrived in the 1st century, history was documented.
Romans did not stay in the Northern Islands any longer than necessary to hunt for Thule, the northern edge of the world. Then they dropped back to Hadrian’s Wall in defense against Picts. Picts caused Romans to abandon their forward position at the Antonine Wall in Scotland in the 150s CE and drop back to Hadrian’s Wall.
Collapse of the Roman Empire in the current era,³ left a void. The power vacuum was filled in England by Saxons and Anglos from Germanic tribes of Europe, and by Norsemen in the Northern Islands. Norse and Scots battled for control of the Northern Islands, as their respective domains became discernable political units of Norway and Scotland. People of the Shetlands and Orkneys were captive to powers battling for control.
Viking is a label often used for all Norse peoples expanding their domain in the 9th to 11th centuries. Among Norse, going a-viking meant to raid and pillage. There is a distinction between Norse men and women, who ventured beyond Norway, settling and farming in Northern Islands in the 9th century, while kinsmen went a-viking. Northern Island settlements were peaceful havens during seasons of farming.⁴
By the 11th century, Dublin was a community of former Vikings, domesticated and politically active. Viking king Canute was the great king of Norway, England, and Denmark. Viking warriors traveled as far as Constantinople as mercenaries of kings. In Britain and Norway, Norse kings were heralded for bringing Christianity to their people.
King Olaf II of Norway came to Shetland Islands and gave people the choice of Christianity or death.⁵ Most chose Christianity, at least facially. Some Norse became Christian in 995 under prompting by Olaf I. Picts, the conquered people, had long-standing Christian traditions. Irish monasteries trained missionaries from the 6th century. In the Norse-Christian era, churches of stone appeared on the Northern Island landscape.
The 10th and 11th centuries in the Northern Islands are known as the Earls of Norway era. Earls were leaders of warriors evolved from Viking raiders to protectors of their turf. Magnus Eriendsson was an Earl of Norway, known for piety and peaceful Christian virtue. He jointly ruled Orkney with his cousin Håkon. Their lives are chronicled in 12th century Norse Sagas, one of which is Orkney Saga. Orkney refers generally to Northern Islands.
Followers of Magnus and Håkon were competitive. In Viking fashion, they agreed to meet at a Thing, the Viking democratic forum for resolving disputes. It was decided that each earl should bring two ships of warriors in 1116, and battle for prominence on the Orkney Island of Egilsay. Magnus kept to the agreement. Håkon arrived with eight ships of warriors, overwhelming the Magnus group. In the fray, Magnus was captured. He offered to be a prisoner or exiled, as was the custom. Instead, he was hit in the head with an axe.
Magnus was vigorously mourned by his followers. Miracles were seen near his burial, where crops were notably productive. Magnus was heralded as a saint. Håkon’s penance was to erect a church in 1117, at the place where Magnus died. St. Magnus Church was later rebuilt larger. It stands today as an historic monument on Egilsay Island, Orkney.
In 1129, the earldom of Orkney went to the nephew of Magnus, Rögnvald Kolsson. He was sent to Orkney from Norway to build a cathedral to St. Magnus, fit to entomb holy relics of the saint. The result was St. Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall. St. Magnus was canonized in 1135. Construction of the Kirkwall cathedral began in 1137.
During church construction, battles between Scottish lords and Norse Earls continued. In one battle, Rögnvald was killed. He was recognized as a local Norse saint in 1192, and his relics were placed in the cathedral.⁶ Impetus for St. Magnus Cathedral was long thought only a legend of Norse Sagas, until 19th century restoration work on the cathedral exposed a cracked skull. The spirit of St. Magnus remains in the cathedral.⁷
Norse control of Northern Islands ebbed in 1231, when powerful Earl John of Orkney was killed in a pub brawl.⁸ Other families of Norse earls married into Scottish noble families. In 1290, hopes of a joinder of Norway, Scotland, and England died with Princess Margaret of Norway, while the child bride was sailing to England to marry Edward Prince of Wales, the son of King Edward I of England. Margaret was the granddaughter and heir to Alexander III, king of Scotland. In 1249, in a treaty, Alexander III conceded the Northern Islands to Norway in exchange for the Hebrides and Isle of Man. His granddaughter was an emissary of peace joining Norway and England.
Finally, the fate of Orkney and Shetland was settled, not on a battlefield, rather by nuptial gift. By the 15th century, Norway was part of the Kalmar Union of Norway, Denmark, and Sweden. Denmark was the dominant power, after deft maneuvers in which royals of the other countries were executed at a dinner party. In 1469, King Christian I of Denmark, head of the Kalmar Union, gave his daughter Margaret in marriage to King James III of Scotland. To secure payment of her dowry, Christian pledged Orkney and Shetland Islands. He defaulted. The Northern Islands were part of Scotland by 1472. Scotland became part of Great Britain in the 1707 Act of Union.
Stories in Stones of Skara Brae and Jarlshof
While battles occurred around, and sometimes above, stone monuments of Skara Brae and Jarlshof, settlements of Neolithic people lie preserved in sand. Few population centers grew in the Northern Islands, leaving ancient cultures unscathed. In the mid to late 19th century, storms battered northern coasts, ripping sandy banks into the sea.
Storms left exposed stone settlements of amazing structural integrity, over extensive terrain. Fortunately, sites were exposed when Great Britain was experiencing a strong preservation ethic. Archaeology undertaken at Skara Brae in Orkney and Jarlshof in Shetland restored and preserved sites, which are visitor favorites.
A Skara Brae, the site sits against the beach, protected from erosion by a recently constructed sea wall. It is easy to imagine the site much larger almost five thousand years ago, when actively occupied. An undetermined number of homes washed into the sea.
Skara Brae was occupied from 3360 to about 3160 BCE, although earliest occupants did not build the settlement seen today. The more recent settlement began about 2900 BCE. The site sat vacant for two hundred and fifty years, collecting soil and sand deposits, and was then occupied for four hundred years.
The impetus for people leaving and returning to Skara Brae cannot be determined from the archaeological record. There are no other sites on Orkney to which people gravitated. There is no evidence of a major destructive storm, or conquest by warring people.
Skara Brae is remarkable in the number of houses in clusters and the interior furnishings. Houses are all circular, reinforced into soil banks with double rows of stone. Between stone walls was discarded material mixed with sand and soil. Walls provided insulation and held against the wind.
There are deep passageways between houses. Around interior walls are circular side chambers, likely used for storage. The sloping roofs were thatched with grasses.
Each house is identical in interior design. Furniture is of stone. In the center of each house is a stone-lined fire pit. Opposite the entrance, is a two-level, built-in, storage unit. To each side of the large chamber is a stone-lined bed. A circular chamber, larger than others, without beds, was a workshop or communal storage area.
So many, well-carved tools and beads were found in Skara Brae that archaeologists had three scenarios for its purpose. Either Skara Brae was a religious site of high status, to which people brought tributes; or it was a wealthy residential settlement of long stature; or it was a place of craftsmen, from which items were distributed throughout the area.
Clues to settlement life are in the stones. Doorways were small to keep out cold winds. Doors could be secured by bars to bolt a rock door from the inside. People kept out the weather, or sought privacy and security, in the tight village of fifty to one hundred people.
A village of conforming features evidence social organization and cooperation. People farmed and caught wild animals from which leather was used for clothing. There was no evidence of weaving on the site. There was nothing to burn for heat besides grasses and few trees, which were depleted. People had food security. Fuel was scarce.
Also mysterious on Orkney are standing stone henges in the Ring of Brodgar, ten miles west of Kirkwall, and Standing Stones of Stenness, one mile from Brodgar. The henges are six miles from Skara Brae. Brodgar is the largest henge in the British Isles. It is surrounded by a ditch, hacked from sandstone. Stenness sits between lochs, at a point where ancient people came together. A Watch Stone, eighteen feet high, stands back from the circle, as if a territory marker. There was also a so-called Stone of Odin at Stenness, with its head-size perforation about the height of a man. Couples came to say their vows at the Stone of Odin, until it was destroyed in 1814.⁹
In contrast to life at Skara Brae, Jarlshof in Shetland experienced continuous occupation from 2500 BCE to 1600s CE. Remnants of houses from earliest residents are next to round-walled homes, like Skara Brae, occupied from 2000 BCE, through arrival of Romans in the 1st century CE. There are underground storage vaults and remnants of a 1st century CE broch, the multilevel, communal, massive stone tower. Like Skara Brae, Jarlshof is adjacent to a beach, where a retaining wall now holds back further erosion.
The broch is an impressive stone structure, standing high on the ancient landscape, much like later castles of a lord. One defensible doorway led into a three-story, double-walled tower, with a high thatched roof. Between double walls were passageways and chambers. There were sleeping areas above, and storage below, the activity area on the main floor. A broch created a building not likely to collapse in the wind, or from hostile forces.
Broches are found in each Roman era settlement. Most broches are surrounded by a