New-School Sweets: Old-School Pastries with an Insanely Delicious Twist
By Vinesh Johny and Andres Lara
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About this ebook
Two Chefs. 70+ Pastries. Unlimited Flavor.
Take everything you know about pastry and throw it out the window. Vinesh Johny and Andrés Lara, two brilliant pastry chefs, educators and friends, come together to show you pastry like you’ve never tasted before. With years of experience teaching in renowned pastry schools around the world, this creative duo will show you how to build exquisite treats from the ground up, using delightfully unexpected flavor combinations and carefully layered textures. Whether you’re looking to level up your home baking skills or you’re a pastry pro looking for some inspiration, this collection of in-depth step-by-step recipes will amaze your dinner guests and leave you feeling like a pastry magician.
Inspired by the amazing treats Vinesh and Andrés tasted while traveling the globe, these recipes are an exciting mash-up of all the delicious sweets the world has to offer. Give French classics a delicious makeover with recipes like Saffron Milk Brioche, Rocky Chocolate Financier and Cinnamon Roll Crème Brûlée. Learn to incorporate key spices for a burst of unexpected flavor in the Szechuan Peppercorn Hazelnut Tart, play with your vegetables in the Carrot Confit Pumpkin Pie and celebrate texture with the Crunchy Potato Chip Tart. Detailed directions walk you through every recipe, while special tips on timing and assembly help you to perfect your creations. With this collection, you’ll master essential techniques with ease and discover the imaginative, contemporary tricks that Vinesh and Andrés use to make the art of pastry their own.
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New-School Sweets - Vinesh Johny
DRAMATIC
Pies & Tarts
When Andrés first got to America, he was struck by how the approach to food was so warm and homey, as compared to the very formal traditions of French cuisine. Both of us first started associating America with pies from those classic cartoons where the freshly baked pie would lie on the windowsill to cool and the smells wafting up from it would make everyone around go crazy! And when we finally got to eat at classic American diners and visit friends’ homes, suddenly we could properly appreciate how much of a cultural phenomenon pies were, and still are, in the country.
Pies and tarts have also quickly become a central part of the classes we teach all over the world, constantly picking up new tricks and developing new recipes. When the two of us finally met, things started getting really wild and we started using all sorts of exciting ingredients to create every pie we could ever dream of, from the more traditional doughs with gentle fillings, to the impressive gastronomic delights of today. We wanted to represent that spectrum here, so we’ve got homey recipes like the Raspberry Gâteau Basque and truly exotic cultural treats like the Mango Yogurt Pie. We’ll walk you through creating a variety of crusts, lining and baking them, layering different fillings and topping it all off with garnishes, with each product boasting unique looks and flavor combinations. You’re in for the ride of a lifetime with this tasty, crumbly collection.
CARAMEL CANDY
APPLE PIE
Yield: 6 (3½-inch [7-cm]) pies
Mold: 3½-inch (7-cm) ring
It doesn’t get any more old-school than biting into one of those classic caramelized apples at the local carnival. Our take on this childhood favorite combines some sinfully creamy and crumbly textures, with a balance of sweet and salty flavors. To fully explore the different sides of caramel, we’ll be using it in three distinct ways—coated around the apples, inside the chewy filling and, of course, as a light chantilly on top. This pie guarantees you’ll feel like a kid again.
Caramel Chantilly
¾ cup (150 g) granulated sugar
1¼ cups (300 g) heavy cream
Pie Dough
½ cup (120 g) butter, plus more for greasing rings, at room temperature
⅓ tsp sea salt
¾ cup (90 g) icing sugar
½ cup (30 g) almond flour
1 egg
1¾ cups + 1 tbsp + 1 tsp (230 g) all-purpose flour
Chewy Vanilla Caramel
½ vanilla bean pod (see Quick Reference Notes, here)
½ cup + 2 tbsp (150 g) heavy cream
⅛ cup + 2 tsp (40 g) milk
⅓ tsp sea salt
⅓ cup + 1 tsp (115 g) corn syrup, divided
⅓ cup + 2 tsp (75 g) granulated sugar
3½ tbsp (50 g) butter
Caramelized Apples
3 tbsp + ½ tsp (45 g) butter
3 Granny Smith apples, peeled and diced
½ cup + 2 tsp (120 g) brown sugar
Caramel Crunch
¾ cup (100 g) pie crust, baked
1 tbsp (15 g) butter
2 tsp (10 g) brown sugar
¼ vanilla bean pod
⅛ cup + 1 tbsp (35 g) milk chocolate
Toasted hazelnuts, for garnish
Edible gold leaf, for garnish
For the Caramel Chantilly. Caramelize the granulated sugar by spreading it in a saucepan and heating it evenly until it takes on a deep amber color. Add in the cream to help deglaze the saucepan, and use a spatula to mix it well and form a smooth caramel cream. Refrigerate the chantilly overnight.
For the Pie Dough. Starting things off in a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, cream the butter along with the salt, icing sugar and almond flour. Add in the egg gradually and mix for 1 to 2 minutes to get an even mixture. Next add the all-purpose flour and mix until there is a smooth dough, 1 minute. The dough should then be placed between two sheets of baking paper and flattened slightly before resting in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
Line a tray with baking paper and then grease the rings with extra butter and place them on the prepared tray. Roll the dough out into a sheet ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick, and cut out 6 (4-inch [10-cm]) discs of dough for the base of the pies. Place a disc inside each greased ring and press it gently, starting from the bottom and working your way up the sides. If the edges are above the rim, carefully trim them with a small knife, then refrigerate the tart shells for 1 hour. Preheat the oven at 320°F (160°C) and bake the tart shells for 20 to 25 minutes. You’ll have some leftover dough trimmings, which need to be refrigerated and baked in the same way. Store these baked crust trimmings so they can be used while making the caramel crunch.
Note from the Chefs:
The chewy caramel process might feel tricky at first, but as long as you have two pans and a thermometer handy, you’ll be fine!
For the Chewy Vanilla Caramel. In a saucepan, add the vanilla, cream, milk, salt and 2 tablespoons (40 g) of corn syrup. Heat over medium heat, 2 minutes, until it turns nice and warm. In another saucepan, heat the granulated sugar along with the remaining 3 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons (75 g) of corn syrup, until it caramelizes to a light amber color, then pour the warmed cream mixture into the caramel to help deglaze the saucepan. Continue to cook the mixture until it reaches 225°F (107°C) before turning off the heat and letting it cool for 10 minutes. Mix in the butter, and use a hand blender to mix it into a beautiful, thick caramel. Strain and reserve the caramel in an airtight container at room temperature until assembly.
For the Caramelized Apples. In a saucepan, melt the butter and then add in the apples and brown sugar, cooking until they’re evenly coated to give them a nice intense caramel feel, about 8 to 10 minutes.
For the Caramel Crunch. Bring out those baked crust trimmings, measure the amount needed for the recipe and blend them in a food processor until they form a crumbly texture. Heat the butter gently in a saucepan until it’s melted, then add it into the crumble. Transfer this to a mixing bowl and add in the brown sugar and scraped vanilla as well. To finish things off, melt the milk chocolate and combine it into the crunch.
Time for assembly. First, spread a generous layer of the caramel crunch inside each baked pie crust. Next, pipe a layer of chewy vanilla caramel over the crust with a piping bag. Gently place the caramelized apples over the caramel piping, and follow that with another layer of chewy caramel. You can use a palette knife to flatten out the top of the caramel into a smooth surface. Finally, whip the caramel chantilly in a stand mixer with a whisk attachment to get it nice and airy, and use a piping bag fitted with a leaf nozzle to make neat lines across the top surface of the pie. Use a palette knife to neaten the edges, and finish up with toasted hazelnuts and gold leaf to give it an exquisite look.
These perfect caramelized apple pies are ready to eat. You can store them in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
CARROT CONFIT
PUMPKIN PIE
Yield: 6 (3½-inch [7-cm]) pies
Mold: 3½-inch (7-cm) ring
Thanks to its firm bite and delicate sweetness, the carrot is one of the few vegetables that’s widely embraced as an ingredient in desserts! Of course, the West has carrot cakes; similarly, the East has enjoyed gajar halwa for ages: a thickened pudding made with grated carrots, milk and spices. Being one of Vinesh’s local favorites, we wanted to use carrot halwa as the filling for this pie and build it up with a stunning créme brûlée to create a truly East-meets-West experience.
Pie Dough
½ cup (120 g) butter, plus more for greasing rings, at room temperature
½ tsp sea salt
¾ cup (90 g) icing sugar
½ cup (30 g) almond flour
1 egg
1¾ cups + 1 tbsp + 1 tsp (230 g) all-purpose flour
Carrot Halwa
3 tbsp + 1½ tsp (50 g) clarified butter, divided
2½ cups (300 g) carrots, shredded
½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar
⅓ cup + 1½ tsp (90 g) milk
Pinch of cardamom powder
¼ cup + 2 tsp (70 g) heavy cream
Pinch of sea salt
Zest of 1 orange
½ tsp saffron
1 tbsp (10 g) raisins
1 tbsp (10 g) cashews
Pumpkin Purée
2 cups (300 g) pumpkin
1½ tbsp (20 g) olive oil
2 tbsp (30 g) butter
Pumpkin Pie Brûlée
1¼ cups (300 g) heavy cream
⅛ cup + 1 tbsp + 2 tsp (50 g) brown sugar
¼ tsp ground nutmeg
⅓ tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp ground ginger
⅓ tsp sea salt
1 cup (250 g) pumpkin purée
6 egg yolks
¾ tsp cornstarch
Brown sugar, for brûléed garnish
Microgreens, for garnish (optional)
For the Pie Dough. In a stand mixer with a paddle attachment, kick things off by mixing the butter with the salt, icing sugar and almond flour. Gradually add in the egg a little at a time until fully incorporated. Follow that by folding in the all-purpose flour, mixing it until you get a smooth dough. Place this between two sheets of baking paper and flatten it slightly before resting in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
Grease the rings with extra butter and place them on a tray lined with baking paper. Roll the dough out into a sheet ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick, and cut out 6 (4-inch [10-cm]) discs of dough for the base of the pies. Place a disc inside each greased ring and press it gently, starting from the bottom and working your way up the sides. If the edges are above the rim, carefully trim them with a small knife, then pop them in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Preheat the oven at 320°F (160°C) and bake the crusts for 20 to 25 minutes, until they turn golden brown.
For the Carrot Halwa. Heat 2 tablespoons (30 g) of clarified butter in a saucepan, then add in the shredded carrots and cook over medium heat for 20 minutes, mixing continuously until the carrots are tender. Now add in the granulated sugar, milk and cardamom to get some interesting flavors going. As the mixture reduces, add in the cream and continue to cook for 5 minutes to get a thick, creamy consistency. Turn off the heat, and add in the salt, orange zest and saffron to give it some delicate aromas.
In another saucepan, heat the remaining 4½ teaspoons (20 g) of clarified butter and just before it begins to boil, add in the raisins and cashews. Sauté them until the mixture turns golden brown and starts giving off a stunning fragrance. Then drop these sautéed raisins and cashews into the carrot halwa, and reserve it in the refrigerator until we’re ready to assemble.
For the Pumpkin Purée. Preheat the oven to 356°F (180°C). Peel and dice the pumpkin, making sure to scoop out the unnecessary seeds and strings. On a tray lined with baking paper, lay the pumpkin pieces out and drizzle the olive oil over them. Roast about an hour; you’ll know it’s done when the pumpkin has turned really soft and tender. Let the pumpkin cool a bit at room temperature.
Meanwhile, let’s make some brown butter: Place the butter in a saucepan over medium heat until it begins to boil, turns brown and releases a nutty aroma. Turn off the heat and let the butter cool to room temperature. In a food processor, place the brown butter and roasted pumpkin and run them together to get a beautiful, thick pumpkin purée.
For the Pumpkin Pie Brûlée. Preheat the oven to 320°F (160°C). In a saucepan, start heating the cream, brown sugar, nutmeg, cinnamon, ginger and salt, bringing the mixture to a boil before adding in the pumpkin purée. In a separate bowl, mix the egg yolks and cornstarch, and pour one-third of the warmed pumpkin cream into the egg mixture to help temper the eggs. Pour this yolk-cream mixture back into the saucepan with the rest of the pumpkin cream, and with a hand blender, blend everything together into a smooth mixture, then strain it to get rid of any lingering