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    Fodor's Philadelphia: with Valley Forge, Bucks County, the Brandywine Valley, and Lancaster County
    Fodor's Philadelphia: with Valley Forge, Bucks County, the Brandywine Valley, and Lancaster County
    Fodor's Philadelphia: with Valley Forge, Bucks County, the Brandywine Valley, and Lancaster County
    Ebook616 pages10 hours

    Fodor's Philadelphia: with Valley Forge, Bucks County, the Brandywine Valley, and Lancaster County

    By Fodor's Travel Guides

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    About this ebook

    Whether you want to eat a cheesesteak, see the Liberty Bell, or visit the Philadelphia's best museums, the local Fodor's travel experts in Philadelphia are here to help! Fodor's Philadelphia guidebook is packed with maps, carefully curated recommendations, and everything else you need to simplify your trip-planning process and make the most of your time. This new edition has been fully-redesigned with an easy-to-read layout, fresh information, and beautiful color photos.

    Fodor's Philadelphia includes:

    • AN ILLUSTRATED ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES GUIDE to the top things to see and do
    • MULTIPLE ITINERARIES to effectively organize your days and maximize your time
    • MORE THAN 20 DETAILED MAPS to help you navigate confidently
    • COLOR PHOTOS throughout to spark your wanderlust!
    • HONEST RECOMMENDATIONS FROM LOCALS on the best sights, restaurants, hotels, nightlife, shopping, performing arts, activities, side-trips, and more
    • PHOTO-FILLED “BEST OF” FEATURES on“Philadelphia's Best Museums,” “Philadelphia's Best Historic Sights,” and more
    • TRIP-PLANNING TOOLS AND PRACTICAL TIPS including when to go, getting around, beating the crowds, and saving time and money
    • HISTORICAL AND CULTURAL INSIGHTS providing rich context on the local people, politics, art, architecture, cuisine, music, geography and more
    • SPECIAL FEATURES on “Reading Terminal Market,” “Visting Independence National Historic Park,” “America's Garden Capital, “ “What to Watch and Read,” and “What to Eat and Drink”
    • LOCAL WRITERS to help you find the under-the-radar gems
    • UP-TO-DATE COVERAGE ON: Liberty Bell, Congress Hall, City Hall, Avenue of the Arts, Boathouse Row, the Philadelphia Zoo, Sesame Place, Rittenhouse Square, the Barnes Foundation, the Franklin Institute, Philadelphia Museum of Art, Reading Terminal Market, Independence Hall, National Constitution Center, African American Museum, Valley Forge

    Planning on visiting our nation's capital? Check out Fodor's Washington D.C.

    *Important note for digital editions: The digital edition of this guide does not contain all the images or text included in the physical edition.


    ABOUT FODOR'S AUTHORS: Each Fodor's Travel Guide is researched and written by local experts. Fodor's has been offering expert advice for all tastes and budgets for over 80 years. For more travel inspiration, you can sign up for our travel newsletter at fodors.com/newsletter/signup, or follow us @FodorsTravel on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter. We invite you to join our friendly community of travel experts at fodors.com/community to ask any other questions and share your experience with us!

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherFodor's Travel
    Release dateOct 10, 2023
    ISBN9781640976092
    Fodor's Philadelphia: with Valley Forge, Bucks County, the Brandywine Valley, and Lancaster County
    Author

    Fodor's Travel Guides

    For over 80 years, Fodor's Travel has been a trusted resource offering expert travel advice for every stage of a traveler's trip. We hire local writers who know their destinations better than anyone else, allowing us to provide the best travel recommendations for all tastes and budget in over 7,500 worldwide destinations. Our books make it possible for every trip to be a trip of a lifetime.

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      Book preview

      Fodor's Philadelphia - Fodor's Travel Guides

      Chapter 1: EXPERIENCE PHILADELPHIA

      15 ULTIMATE EXPERIENCES

      Philadelphia offers terrific experiences that should be on every traveler’s list. Here are Fodor’s top picks for a memorable trip.

      1 Explore Old City

      Known for its cobblestone streets and historic sites, the city’s oldest neighborhood is a mix of 18th-century charm and lively nightlife spots, galleries, and restaurants. (Ch. 3)

      2 Cheesesteaks. Enough Said.

      Complete a trip to Philly by sampling the city’s most legendary sandwich from Pat’s or Geno’s. Or try local spots like John’s Roast Pork or Jim’s. (Ch. 8)

      3 A City of Murals

      The city’s wonderful Mural Arts program, begun in 1984, views every blank wall as a canvas. You can see the work of local artists showcased all around town. (Ch. 9)

      4 Schuylkill River Bike Rides

      For a fresh look at the city, rent wheels through the Indego bike share program. One place to explore is the Schuylkill Banks Boardwalk with its spectacular city views. (Ch. 7, 11)

      5 Independence National Historical Park

      The early history of the United States is recalled here, including the Liberty Bell, Congress Hall, and Independence Hall, where the Declaration of Independence was signed in 1776. (Ch. 3)

      6 Reading Terminal Market

      This historic public market is a must-visit for any food lover. Head to longtime favorite DiNic’s for a famous pork sandwich, and then try some delicious ice cream from Bassetts. (Ch. 5)

      7 Sports

      This city is famous for its sports teams—and for its die-hard fans. Tickets to an Eagles game are almost impossible to get, but check out the Phillies, Flyers, or Sixers. (Ch. 1, 8)

      8 Ritzy Rittenhouse Square

      One of city founder William Penn’s five original squares, Rittenhouse is known for its elegance and charm. Restaurants, shops, and apartments line this green refuge. (Ch. 6)

      9 Fabulous Fairmount Park

      One of the world’s largest city parks, Fairmount boasts trails, bike paths, and historic mansions—as well as stunning views of Boathouse Row on the Schuylkill River. (Ch. 7)

      10 Museum of the American Revolution

      History comes alive through interactive displays at this museum. Step back and consider the stakes in the Revolutionary War for groups like Native Americans, enslaved Africans, and women. (Ch. 3)

      11 Eastern State Penitentiary

      A visit to the empty cellblocks of this semi-ruined jail is an eerie, entertaining excursion to sites like Al Capone’s cell, as well as a thought-provoking look at criminal justice past and present. (Ch. 7)

      12 Parkway Museums

      Home to some of the city’s most famous museums, the Parkway includes the Franklin Institute (pictured), Barnes Foundation, Rodin Museum, and Philadelphia Museum of Art. (Ch. 7)

      13 South Street

      With an unapologetically edgy vibe, this famous street combines ethnically diverse restaurants, shops, and bars into one lively area that always buzzes with activity. (Ch. 8)

      14 Dining in Passyunk

      A foodie favorite, the stretch of East Passyunk Avenue between Broad and 9th Streets lets you dine around the world on cuisine from Italy to Mexico to Asia. (Ch. 8)

      15 Brewery Scene

      Beer lovers can sip great suds at many craft breweries or brew pubs; new spots continue to pop up in funky neighborhoods like Fishtown and Northern Liberties. (Ch. 10)

      WHAT’S WHERE

      dingbat Old City and Historic Downtown. Given its historical importance, everything in Old City is a highlight including Independence National Historical Park, home to the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall.

      dingbat Society Hill and Penn’s Landing. Well-preserved Society Hill is filled with cobblestone streets and hidden courtyards. Penn’s Landing features a network of parks and pop-ups.

      dingbat Center City East and Chinatown. This area encompasses everything east of City Hall including great restaurants and bars, the vibrant and diverse Chinatown, and landmarks like Reading Terminal.

      dingbat Center City West and Rittenhouse Square. From City Hall to the Schuylkill River, this part of the city has great restaurants and bars. You’ll also find Rittenhouse Square, the heart of upper-crust Philadelphia.

      dingbat Parkway Museum District and Fairmount Park. From City Hall, the Benjamin Franklin Parkway stretches northwest to the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Fairmount is home to solid dining, drinking, and shopping, while 8,500-acre Fairmount Park is the world’s largest landscaped city park.

      dingbat South Philadelphia and East Passyunk. South Philadelphia gave the world Rocky Balboa and 9th Street’s Italian Market. Bella Vista is home to a number of bars and restaurants, as is trendy East Passyunk.

      dingbat University City and West Philadelphia. The University of Pennsylvania and Drexel University are the anchors of University City, the easternmost portion of West Philadelphia. Beyond is a high concentration of bars, restaurants, and cafés.

      dingbat Northern Liberties and Fishtown. This area of North Philadelphia has come into its own in recent years and is one the city’s best places for eating and drinking.

      dingbat Manayunk, Chestnut Hill, and Germantown. Manayunk, wedged between the Schuylkill River and some steep hills, is full of restaurants and boutiques. Chestnut Hill and Mount Airy are charming residential areas, while Germantown features beautifully preserved historic homes.

      What to Eat and Drink

      WATER ICE

      Known as Italian ice everywhere else, this icy, slushy treat was first created in Philadelphia in the 1930s. Today, some of the same South Philly shops—or newcomers like D’Emilio’s Old World Ice Treats (above)—are selling cups in flavors like lemon, cherry, and chocolate, using their original recipes.

      CHEESESTEAKS

      Other places try to replicate Philly’s most quintessential food, but few get it right. Made with chopped steak, cheese—American, provolone, or Whiz—and often fried onions, all on a fresh Italian roll. A side-by-side taste test of the original Pat’s King of Steaks and Geno’s is a fun rite of passage, but locals love John’s Roast Pork, as well as Dalessandro’s, Jim’s, Angelo’s, Woodrow’s, Tony Luke’s, and Max’s.

      SOFT PRETZELS

      These aren’t your typical mall or movie-theater snacks. The Philly version—with roots in the city’s Pennsylvania Dutch culture—has an elongated shape with a soft interior and perfectly browned, salted exterior. Find them everywhere from street carts and the ubiquitous chain Philly Pretzel Factory to independent shops like Miller’s Twist inside the Reading Terminal Market.

      MARKETS

      Speaking of Reading Terminal Market, there might be nothing that encapsulates Philadelphia’s diverse, delicious food scene better than its iconic markets. Not far from City Hall, Reading Terminal is the country’s oldest continuously operating indoor market, with more than 75 food stalls that run the gamut from cheesesteaks and pretzels to Amish goodies. Philly’s other famous market, the outdoor Italian Market, can be found on a lively stretch of 9th Street in South Philly. Around since the late 1800s, the market has vendors selling everything from fresh pasta and spices to meats and dry goods. There are even places to get lunch or coffee.

      ZAHAV

      The James Beard Association named Zahav America’s best restaurant in 2019. Reservations are tough to land, and it’s not uncommon for diners to plan trips around them. Try calling to see if there are any cancellations the morning of, or visit one of the other excellent Philly eateries Michael Solomonov runs, including K’Far, Merkaz, Abe Fisher, and the newest star, Laser Wolf in Fishtown.

      HOAGIES

      Don’t call them subs, grinders, or heroes. In Philly, sandwiches made on long Italian rolls are called hoagies, and they’re pretty outstanding—head to Carvers in Center City for a taste. Find varieties made with turkey, ham, tuna salad, veggie, and the classic Italian version—with thinly sliced meats and cheeses, shredded lettuce, tomatoes, oil, and vinegar—in delis and restaurants all over town. If you really want to eat like a local, try one of the many tiny neighborhood shops around town or stop by a Wawa.

      THE SCHMITTER

      Speaking of the city’s love of sandwiches, head to McNally’s Tavern in Chestnut Hill for what many locals consider to be one of the greatest bar sandwiches of all time. The Schmitter has steak, cheese, and fried onions topped with fried salami and a special sauce, all on a kaiser roll—it’s as delicious as it sounds.

      ROAST PORK SANDWICH

      By now you may have picked up on the fact that Philadephians are serious about sandwiches. Also created in Italian-American kitchens, the roast pork sandwich is made with thinly sliced hot roasted pork, sharp (or mild) provolone cheese, and garlicky sautéed spinach or broccoli rabe. Most locals will tell you John’s Roast Pork makes the best version in town—the no-frills spot won a James Beard Award for culinary excellence in 2006—and they’re correct. Another deserving contender is DiNic’s in the Reading Terminal Market.

      ITALIAN CUISINE

      The city embraces Italian food in all forms, from South Philly’s simple, perfect red gravy (also known as marinara or tomato sauce) joints to restaurants that showcase handmade pasta and regional cuisine, like Dante & Luigi’s or Via Locusta. We can’t talk about the city’s great Italian food without mentioning Termini Brothers Bakery in East Passyunk. They’ve been churning out Italian pastries since 1921. Stop by for their filled-to-order cannoli, as well as pizzelles, biscotti, cakes, and another traditional Italian sweet treats.

      SCRAPPLE

      The distinctive regional specialty—made with pork scraps, spices, flour, and cornmeal—is a Pennsylvania Dutch tradition. You can always find simple, classic versions of the breakfast specialty at diners around the city, including Dutch Eating Place in Reading Terminal Market and Sulimay’s in Fishtown.

      CRAFT BOOZE

      Before Prohibition, Philadelphia was home to a high concentration of breweries and distilleries, and in the past few decades booze has been making a big comeback. Yards, in Northern Liberties, is the oldest continuously operating craft brewer in the city, while Fishtown’s Philadelphia Distilling is Pennsylvania’s first craft distillery since Prohibition.

      Philadelphia’s Best Historic Sights

      INDEPENDENCE HALL

      This redbrick building looks surprisingly low-key for a national icon, but if these walls could talk, they would tell tales of how the building that began life as the Pennsylvania State House became the site of monumental decisions and events for a new nation. (Ch. 3)

      CLIVEDEN

      The stately fieldstone house is quiet now, but back in the revolutionary days of 1777, Cliveden played an important role in the bloody Battle of Germantown. You can take a tour (by appointment only) of the house, or check out exhibits in the Carriage House visitor center that examine the historical legacy of slavery and how it can be used to understand what the house—and freedom—mean. (Ch. 11)

      MOTHER BETHEL AFRICAN METHODIST EPISCOPAL CHURCH

      Former slave Richard Allen founded this church and purchased the land it still occupies in 1787; it’s the country’s oldest real estate continuously owned by African Americans. He and his wife, Sarah Allen, ran a station on the Underground Railroad. In the crypt, you can see their tombs, pews from the original church, and a museum. (Ch. 4)

      EASTERN STATE PENITENTIARY

      This massive prison in the Fairmount neighborhood takes you through the history of criminal justice reform. Peek into cells that held Al Capone, Willie Sutton, and others. Take a guided tour or the excellent audio tour narrated by Steve Buscemi to appreciate the crumbling spaces. After the tour, see exhibits and displays on current issues in criminal justice. (Ch. 7)

      RITTENHOUSE SQUARE

      A sculpture-filled, leafy retreat beloved by locals, the square and neighborhood remain chic and expensive, though apartments, restaurants, and fancy shops have replaced the original houses right around the square. To channel the neighborhood vibe, relax on a bench or people-watch while dining alfresco. (Ch. 6)

      THE BENJAMIN FRANKLIN MUSEUM

      Benjamin Franklin played many critical roles in Philadelphia and in the nation’s founding, and all get their due in lively exhibits at this museum in Franklin Court. Interactive displays reflect on his key qualities, and videos bring an icon to life, even for children. (Ch. 3)

      MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION

      Opened in 2017, the Museum of the American Revolution isn’t historic in itself, but it’s well worth a visit to explore engaging interactive displays and intriguing artifacts that make the struggle for independence feel far fresher than the account in your high-school history textbook. (Ch. 3)

      PRESIDENT’S HOUSE

      Just north of the Liberty Bell Center, an open-air site with partial brick walls and window frames marks the footprint of the President’s House, home of Presidents George Washington and John Adams from 1790 to 1800. (Ch. 3)

      ELFRETH’S ALLEY

      Built from the early 1700s to 1830, the 32 modest Federal- and Georgian-style houses on the country’s oldest continuously occupied residential street were not the grand mansions of Society Hill. Craftspeople lived here, and in season you can stop by the Elfreth’s Alley Museum at Nos. 124–126 to explore the quaint former homes of a Colonial dressmaker and chair maker. (Ch. 3)

      LIBERTY BELL CENTER

      The cracked bronze bell has long inspired lovers of freedom. Learn its history at the Liberty Bell Center, a glass-enclosed complex with the bell, interpretive displays, and a video. Activist groups for women’s suffrage and civil rights have embraced the bell as a powerful emblem. (Ch. 3)

      Best Museums in Philadelphia

      BARNES FOUNDATION

      Boasting one of the most impressive collections of art in the country (81 Renoirs, 69 Cézannes, 59 Matisses, 46 Picassos, 7 van Goghs, 6 Seurats), the Barnes moved from its longtime home in the Main Line suburbs to a higher-profile Parkway plot in 2012. The unusual layout of its mixed-media galleries, a hallmark of Albert Barnes’s style, remains. (Ch. 7)

      PHILADELPHIA MUSEUM OF ART

      A street-level entrance off Kelly Drive lets you bypass the famous Rocky Steps (or run ‘em, if you’d like) and go directly into Philly’s hallowed temple of art. Inside, you’ll find paintings, furniture, textiles, and more from names like Diego Rivera, Georgia O’Keeffe, Charles Eames, and Frank Gehry. (Ch. 7)

      MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN REVOLUTION

      Opened in 2017, the AmRev Museum (as locals have nicknamed it) emphasizes an immersive, interactive format in its retelling of the Revolutionary War from the Boston Tea Party to the Battle of Yorktown. Fans of Hamilton won’t want to miss the gallery of 30 artifacts related to the former treasury secretary. (Ch. 3)

      RODIN MUSEUM

      The only museum dedicated to Auguste Rodin outside France, Philly’s beaux arts tribute features nearly 150 bronzes, marbles, and plasters. The lovely garden is the perfect place to contemplate alongside The Thinker. (Ch. 7)

      PENNSYLVANIA ACADEMY OF THE FINE ARTS

      Located just north of City Hall, the country’s oldest art museum and school regularly augments its diverse mixed-media collection with compelling exhibits throughout the year. (Ch. 7)

      THE MÜTTER MUSEUM

      Lovers of the medical and the macabre should not miss this fascinating and unusual collection, which is filled with skulls, organs, skeletons, and other oddities; an expansion scheduled for 2023 will double its footprint. (Ch. 6)

      FRANKLIN INSTITUTE

      Science is the thread stitching the various family-friendly galleries together (the giant walk-through heart is a favorite), with nationally touring exhibits often setting up shop. There’s also a planetarium and Center City’s only IMAX theater. (Ch. 7)

      MUMMERS MUSEUM

      The Mummers have been part of Philly tradition for centuries, and this museum in Pennsport, the heart of Mummers culture, charts its history from its 17th-century origins to the modern New Year’s Day parade, when thousands of elaborately costumed musical brigades march down Market Street. (Ch. 8)

      WEITZMAN NATIONAL MUSEUM OF AMERICAN JEWISH HISTORY

      Founded in 1976 and relocated in 2010, this museum shares the experience of Jewish people in America through interactive exhibits, photographs, artifacts, and film. A Smithsonian affiliate, general admission (not including special exhibits) is free. (Ch. 3)

      AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM IN PHILADELPHIA

      Philly’s African American museum documents the experience of the people of the African diaspora in Philadelphia and beyond. The interactive projections of important 18th-century figures in the permanent Audacious Freedom exhibit are especially well done. (Ch. 3)

      Philadelphia Today

      There might not be a United States of America without Philadelphia. The Declaration of Independence was signed here, kick-starting the American Revolution, and the city went on to become the first capital of the young USA. History is everywhere. Concentrated in the Old City, where spotting costumed reenactors (Ben Franklin, Betsy Ross) is a regular occurrence, the main historical sites like Independence Hall, Liberty Bell, and the Betsy Ross House are magnets for domestic and international visitors. Newer on the scene is the Museum of the American Revolution, which chronicles the war through state-of-the-art exhibits, and the President’s House, the site and partial re-creation of George Washington’s presidential mansion. During the archaeological excavation, slave quarters were discovered, resulting in a frank discussion about the role of slavery in the lives of America’s forefathers, one this open-air museum (refreshingly) does not shy away from exploring.

      There’s history outside the city, too. Less than an hour’s drive brings you to Valley Forge National Historic Park, the Battlefield of the Brandywine, and the Bucks County town of Washington’s Crossing, where General Washington crossed the Delaware River on Christmas Day, 1776.

      But listen up: history is far from the only reason to visit Philadelphia. The city today looks forward—to tech, to newcomers, to cutting-edge design and cuisine, to climate advocacy, to social justice—as much as it looks back. Philly is a longtime Democratic stronghold. Big ideas about the future of politics, justice, and reform are percolating here and influencing the country, including Mayor Jim Kenney’s soda tax, a tariff on sugary beverages that, while controversial, succeeded in funding universal pre-K. Kenney served the final year of his second term as mayor in 2023. Philadelphians are not shy about sharing their opinions, political and otherwise, especially about their award-winning sports teams, the Eagles (football) and the Phillies (baseball). But by and large, Philly is a socially open and tolerant city. Unless you are a Dallas Cowboys fan. Then no one can help you. (Just kidding. Kinda.)

      A SMALL TOWN IN DISGUISE

      Philly is the sixth-largest American city by population, but it operates very much like a small town. Even as the infusion of new residents from other cities, states, and countries has hit a fever pitch in the last decade, it’s not uncommon to meet third- and fourth-generation Philadelphians who have lived here all their lives. Lived here doesn’t just mean the city, though. It might mean the same neighborhood, if not the same block. Philadelphians complain about their hometown (parking, trash, wage tax) but that doesn’t mean they don’t love it fiercely—and it doesn’t mean outsiders should participate in the griping. Unless it’s about the PPA (Philadelphia Parking Authority), which is always a safe target. It can feel like everyone knows everyone in neighborhoods, and Philadelphians are generally a welcoming bunch. Experiencing that tight knitted-ness, in the context of a big city with all the amenities you’d expect from one, is what makes Philly so special and unusual.

      SETTING THE TABLE

      From Ethiopian injera joints to luxe Italian pasta palaces, whatever kind of restaurant you’re looking for in Philly, you’ll find it. The city has so evolved past its cheesesteak stereotype that even the Philly is more than just cheesesteaks talking point has become a cliché. You can get fantastic versions of the famous sandwich, along with its cousin, the roast pork (with broccoli rabe and sharp provolone), at places like John’s Roast Pork and Angelo’s Pizza, both in South Philly, but to go to Philly and only eat sandwiches would mean you’re missing out on a diverse and world-class dining destination. A metaphorical buffet of modern Philadelphia might include internationally renowned lamb tacos (South Philly Barbacoa), homemade ravioli (Via Locusta), aromatic Indonesian beef rendang (Hardena), and jewel-like Lebanese baklava (Manakeesh). And that’s just on the inexpensive end. A trip to Philly means you can easily balance the low with the high, and no restaurants do high better than Zahav, Laurel, Royal Izakaya, and Vernick Food & Drink, all must-make reservations that have earned accolades from well-respected Philly food writers and critics.

      OUTSIDE LANDS

      There’s no getting around it: as a dense, gridded, East Coast city, Philly can feel like a concrete jungle. Fortunately there are plenty of opportunities close by and further afield where you can alleviate the urban crush, from William Penn’s four main Squares (aka parks) to the botanical curiosities of Bartram’s Garden in West Philly and the mystical John Heinz National Wildlife Refuge out by the airport. Fairmount Park, which reaches out from the edge of the Art Museum and crosses the Schuylkill River to encompass more than 2,000 acres, is one of the largest city parks in the country. Fairmount Park is home to hiking trails, a Japanese teahouse and garden, the zoo, and Belmont Plateau, a wide grassy savanna with a killer view of the skyline. Apple orchards and sheep farms stretch out north of the city, and beyond, the Pocono Mountains lure skiers, sledders, and holidaymakers. Cross the Delaware River and you’ll soon find yourself in New Jersey’s historic small towns, like Haddonfield; and major shopping destinations (Cherry Hill and Deptford). Further out, you’ll find Pine Barrens, a land of cranberry bogs, woods and trails, and quirky characters. Keep going and you’ll eventually reach the Atlantic Ocean, as hordes of Philadelphians do every summer. Going down the Shore is one Philly tradition almost everyone can agree on.

      THE AFTERMATH OF COVID-19

      In the spring of 2020, the United States (including Philadelphia) was gravely impacted by the COVID-19 virus. Restaurants, hotels, shops, bars, and even cultural institutions were forced to close temporarily. At the time of press, Philadelphia is, for the most part, back to its pre-pandemic state. Masks are not required (except in medical facilities). You may notice some restaurants with temporary outdoor areas but those are slowly being removed in 2023.

      RACISM AND UNREST

      As in many places around the U.S., Philadelphia erupted in protests in early June 2020 following the senseless death of George Floyd in Minneapolis. Citizens had had enough, and protestors filled the streets from the Center City West neighborhood along the retail corridor to Rittenhouse Square. While some businesses were looted and damaged, business owners on the whole pledged to rebuild. The City of Brotherly love is no stranger to social injustice, unfortunately, as the city experienced some of its darkest days under the hands of former police commissioner and mayor Frank Rizzo. A statue and mural of the controversial figure were finally removed following the protests.

      Free in Philadelphia

      Many of Philadelphia’s most historic and best-known attractions are free—or suggest a small donation for admission—every day. This lengthy list includes Independence Hall, the Liberty Bell, Carpenter’s Hall, Franklin Court, and the other buildings and sites of Independence National Historic Park including the President’s House, an open-air space that marks the site of the nation’s first executive mansion.

      MUSIC AND THEATER

      Check the calendar of the Curtis Institute of Music (wwww.curtis.edu) to catch one of the frequent free student recitals. The Philadelphia Orchestra (wwww.philorch.org) also gives free neighborhood concerts. Visit Macy’s across from City Hall; the former Wanamaker’s boasts the largest pipe organ in the world, and there are daily free concerts. The Christmas show around the holidays is a definite favorite with shoppers. Check out a dress rehearsal or pay-what-you-can performance at the Arden Theater—they accept donations for admission for certain shows. Local independent radio station WXPN offers free concerts Fridays at noon at its home base, World Café Live (wworldcafelive.com).

      OUTDOOR FUN AND FESTIVALS

      Take your pick of activities in Fairmount Park: hike the trails of the Wissahickon (wwww.montcopa.org/924/wissahickon-trail), bring a picnic to Belmont Plateau and enjoy the view; or meander around the Horticultural Center, look for the scattered pieces of public art, or take the kids to Smith Memorial Playground, one of the country’s oldest playgrounds. All summer long, multicultural festivals at Penn’s Landing feature live music and dance instruction. Open spring through fall, Spruce Street Harbor Park overlooks the Delaware River creating a great (free) spot to rest, complete with hammock-lounging.

      ARCHITECTURE, ART, AND LITERATURE

      Take a free weekday afternoon tour of City Hall and visit the lobby of the Curtis Center to gawk at the giant Dream Garden by Maxfield Parrish. Visit the Galleries at the Moore College of Art & Design, the first and only women’s visual arts college in the United States.

      It’s always fun to stroll the galleries in Old City, but it’s especially fun on First Fridays: the first Friday of every month is celebrated with wine receptions, and galleries keeping later hours. The first Sunday of each month and every Wednesday night (5–8:45 pm) is pay what you wish at the Philadelphia Museum of Art. The Institute of Contemporary Art at the University of Pennsylvania is free all the time. You can check out contemporary art at any time by taking a free tour of the city’s many vibrant murals (wwww.muralarts.org).

      HISTORY TOURS

      Take yourself on a walk by downloading and printing the self-guided Constitutional Walking Tour of more than 30 sites around historic Philadelphia. Elfreth’s Alley, the nation’s oldest continuously inhabited street, is free to stroll through; two houses, now a museum, are open for a small fee. Go solo with a call-in cell-phone tour of Valley Forge National Historical Park (P484/396–1018). In the summer, look for the elaborately costumed storytellers with Once Upon a Nation, who set up at 13 benches throughout Philadelphia’s historic area. Hop from bench to bench for a free, interactive tour, during which actors in character relay stories of Philadelphia in Colonial times.

      Philadelphia with Kids

      Philadelphia has fantastic activities and sights for tots. Best of all, these stops appeal to adults as well.

      HISTORIC AREA

      The National Constitution Center’s interactive exhibits are way better than learning from a textbook. Nearby Franklin Square, however, is the perfect place to take a break from all the history. There’s a carousel, miniature-golf course (with Philadelphia landmarks), and an excellent burger stand that also serves up Cake Shakes (milkshakes made with Butterscotch Krimpet Tastykakes). Located in a restored 1902 firehouse near Elfreth’s Alley, the Fireman’s Hall Museum is home to some of the nation’s earliest firefighting equipment. Kids can try on fire coats and boots, and it’s free. For something spookier, check out one of the Ghost Tours offered around the Historic Area. If you’re in need of a pick-me-up, head to the Franklin Fountain, a 1900s-style ice-cream and soda fountain, for handmade ice-cream treats.

      FAIRMOUNT PARK

      The Please Touch Museum is essentially a giant playground for kids. In its location in Fairmount Park’s majestic Memorial Hall—one of the few remnants from the 1876 Centennial Exhibition—the museum is bigger (38,000 square feet of exhibits) and better than ever before. The nearby Philadelphia Zoo is another great spot, with a petting zoo, tree house, and Big Cat Crossing, a series of overhead passageways that allows lions, tigers, pumas, and other large cats to roam. The sprawling indoor–outdoor Smith Memorial Playground and Playhouse nearby has a giant wooden slide and a mansionlike playhouse; check the website when the family summer concert series, Kidchella, occurs.

      BENJAMIN FRANKLIN PARKWAY

      At the Franklin Institute, kids can’t resist walking through the giant heart and seeing their hair stand up in the static-electricity exhibit. The nearby Academy of Natural Sciences has great, kid-friendly exhibits about dinosaurs and architectural digs.

      PENN’S LANDING

      At Penn’s Landing, kids can climb in the bunks used in steerage or hop in a scull and row along the Schuylkill at the Independence Seaport Museum. Next take the RiverLink Ferry across the river (during summer only) to the Camden Waterfront to explore the Adventure Aquarium. The Shark Realm, an enormous tank filled with sharks, stingrays, and sawfish, is the central attraction here. The Camden Children’s Garden is an interactive horticultural garden with exhibits that allow you to taste, smell, and touch different elements.

      AROUND TOWN

      There are plenty of great snacks to pick up for days on the go at the Reading Terminal Market. Kids will like watching the workers at Miller’s Twist wind the dough into pretzel shapes. They can also feed pennies to Philbert, the bronze pig at the market’s center (the money goes to local charities). If you’re in the mood for a ball game, Citizens Bank Park, home to Major League Baseball’s Phillies, is one of the most kid-friendly major-league ballparks, with features like the Phanatic Phun Zone play area.

      OUTSIDE OF TOWN

      About 40 minutes northwest of the city, LEGOLAND Discovery Center Philadelphia is a great place to take LEGO fans young and old. About 25 miles northeast of Philadelphia, Sesame Place will delight fans of Elmo, Big Bird, and crew. And, for the ultimate sugar rush, Hershey is about 100 miles northwest of the city center.

      What to Read and Watch

      ABBOTT ELEMENTARY

      Created and starring the Emmy-award-winning, Philadelphia native Quinta Brunson, this comedic TV show offers plenty of authentic and fun Philly references. Set in a Philadelphia public grammar school, the heartwarming sitcom features a small group of dedicated teachers who overcome an array of challenges in the world of public education.

      PHILADELPHIA FIRE

      Written by John Edgar Wideman, Philadelphia Fire explores the day in 1985 when the police firebombed a row home in West Philadelphia that was owned and occupied by an Afrocentric group known as MOVE. Tensions had long been high between MOVE and the Philadelphia police. The bombing took place at 6221 Osage Avenue and demolished 61 homes in the area.

      SUCH A FUN AGE

      Set in Philadelphia, this novel by Kiley Reid explores themes of race and privilege in an empathetic and funny-at-times story about a black babysitter and the white family she babysits for. The story opens in a high-end grocery store, where what should be an easy evening turns into so much more.

      ROCKY (1976)

      Philadelphia is perhaps best known for the classic film Rocky, which, even after decades, still has fans running up the Art Museum steps like the titular boxer every day. (The famed Rocky Statue is adjacent to the steps). Starring Sylvester Stallone, the now-franchise features eight films that showcase Philadelphia’s grit.

      CREED (2015)

      Included in the Rocky franchise is Creed, and the subsequent Creed II, both starring Michael B. Jordan and Sylvester Stallone; Jordan directed Creed III (2023). In the films, Adonis Creed moves to Philly to train with Rocky, and while he’s here he falls in love with a Philly native who shows him spots like Johnny Brenda’s and Max’s Steaks. The iconic Rocky steps at the Art Museum also are seen on screen, and South Philadelphia’s Victor Café plays a major role, too.

      THE SIXTH SENSE (1999)

      Director M. Night Shyamalan calls Philadelphia home, which is why he sets many of his films here. During one of his biggest films, The Sixth Sense, locations like St. Augustine Roman Catholic Church, St. Alban’s Street in the Graduate Hospital neighborhood, and 20th and Delancey Streets are featured.

      SILVER LININGS PLAYBOOK (2012)

      This moving and endearing film explores mental illness, unexpected connections, and Philadelphia’s intense love for its Philadelphia Eagles football team. Philadelphia Eagles’s games and their home stadium, Lincoln Financial Field in South Philadelphia, are frequently seen on-screen, along with views of Jewelers’ Row, the Benjamin Franklin House, and a number of homes and restaurants right outside the city in Delaware County.

      IT’S ALWAYS SUNNY IN PHILADELPHIA

      The comedic television show about a group of quirky characters owning a bar in South Philadelphia shows off Philadelphia sights and South Philly attitudes throughout its 10-plus-year run. Much of the filming is done in Los Angeles, but a number of local spots are visible throughout the show, including Boathouse Row, the Benjamin Franklin Bridge, Penn’s Landing, and Lincoln Financial Field during the opening credits, and the Italian Market and Rittenhouse Square during select episodes.

      Chapter 2: TRAVEL SMART

      Know Before You Go

      When should I go to Philadelphia? How do I order a cheesesteak? Philly sports—are they really that important? Where can I buy booze and when? We’ve got answers and a few tips to help you make the most of your visit.

      WHEN TO GO

      Any time is right to enjoy the area’s attractions, and a variety of popular annual events take place throughout the year. Spring and fall are the prettiest times of year thanks to an abundance of flowering trees—including April’s bountiful cherry blossoms in West Fairmount Park—and colorful autumnal foliage, not to mention pleasant weather. Summer can feel hot and swampy, though it is also the season of pop-up beer gardens and many festivities. If you don’t mind waiting in longer lines to see popular attractions, visit around July 4, when the city comes alive with fireworks, parades, and festivals. The top draw is the Wawa Welcome America Festival, which often includes a performance by blockbuster musicians. There are special activities in the Historic Downtown area all summer long. Concert and theater seasons run from October through the beginning of June. You may find some better lodging deals—and a beautiful snowfall—in winter, if you don’t mind bundling up.

      WHERE AM I?

      If you ever feel lost, you can orient yourself by gauging where you stand in relation to the two main thoroughfares that intersect at the city’s center: Broad (or 14th) Street, which runs north–south; and Market Street, which runs east–west. Where Broad and Market meet, neatly dividing the city center into four quadrants, you’ll find massive City Hall, Philadelphia’s center of gravity.

      Within Center City up through West Philadelphia, the numbered streets start on the eastern side, from the Delaware River, beginning with Front Street (consider it 1st Street) and west to 25th Street on the banks of the Schuylkill (pronounced skoo-kull) River. In between Market to the north and Lombard to the south, most of the east–west streets have tree names (from north to south: Chestnut, Walnut, Locust, Spruce, Pine).

      Center City has four roughly equal-size city squares, one in each quadrangle. In the northwest quadrangle there’s Logan Square; in the southwest is Rittenhouse; in the northeast there’s Franklin Square; and in the southeast is Washington Square. Running along the banks of the Delaware River is Columbus Boulevard/Delaware Avenue.

      ORDERING CHEESESTEAKS

      Eating a cheesesteak is a must-do experience in Philly, but there is some lingo that you must know before you step up to the window—you don’t want to get yelled at. And don’t worry about temp. Cheesesteaks are well-done.

      Step 1: Pick your cheese—Cheez Whiz, American, or provolone (never Swiss).

      Step 2: Decide if you want onions or not.

      Step 3: Order. If you want Cheez Whiz and onions, order Whiz, wit. Don’t like onions? Order Whiz, witout.

      So where should you get your cheesesteak? Everyone has a favorite, and loyalty is fierce. The most well-known spots are Pat’s, Geno’s, Jim’s, and Tony Luke’s, but if you want to dine like a local, head to South Philly’s John’s Roast Pork, or Angelo’s Pizzeria South Philly. dingbat TIP → Never, ever call this sandwich steak and cheese.

      SPORTS

      Among the country’s most high-profile sporting cities, Philly has a long and storied athletic heritage that translates to a deep passion for the local teams. That passion sometimes manifests itself in blunt and at times inelegant ways, but when the going gets good, the passion is intoxicating and joyful. Should you find yourself in a game-time environment, expect good-natured heckling if you’re with the opposing team. If you’re there supporting the Eagles, Phillies, Flyers, or Sixers, prepare to be welcomed with open arms.

      The four major sports teams play in a sports complex in deep South Philly near the corner of Broad and Patterson, accessible by the Broad Street Line subway. The Philadelphia Phillies (baseball) play at Citizens Bank Park from April to October. The Philadelphia Eagles, the 2018 Super Bowl champs (important to know), play at Lincoln Financial Field (aka the Linc) from September through January. The Philadelphia Flyers (hockey) hit the ice at the Wells Fargo Center from October to April. Philadelphia 76ers (basketball) play at the Wells Fargo Center from November to April. College basketball fans may want to check out the Philly

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