The Treeline: The Last Forest and the Future of Life on Earth
By Ben Rawlence
4/5
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About this ebook
Winner of the 2023 Helen Bernstein Book Award for Excellence in Journalism
"Original and readable." ―Financial Times' Best Environmental Books of 2022
"Superb, inspiring." ―Winner, National Academies of Science Schmidt Awards for Excellence in Science Communications
“Illuminating.” —Silver Medalist, National Outdoor Book Awards
Longlisted for the American Library Association's 2023 Carnegie Medal for Excellence in Nonfiction
Finalist, 2023 Banff Mountain Book Competition
Finalist, 2023 Dayton Literary Peace Prize
In the tradition of Elizabeth Kolbert and Barry Lopez, a powerful, poetic and deeply absorbing account of the “lung” at the top of the world.
For the last fifty years, the trees of the boreal forest have been moving north. Ben Rawlence's The Treeline takes us along this critical frontier of our warming planet from Norway to Siberia, Alaska to Greenland, Canada to Sweden to meet the scientists, residents and trees confronting huge geological changes. Only the hardest species survive at these latitudes including the ice-loving Dahurian larch of Siberia, the antiseptic Spruce that purifies our atmosphere, the Downy birch conquering Scandinavia, the healing Balsam poplar that Native Americans use as a cure-all and the noble Scots Pine that lives longer when surrounded by its family.
It is a journey of wonder and awe at the incredible creativity and resilience of these species and the mysterious workings of the forest upon which we rely for the air we breathe. Blending reportage with the latest science, The Treeline is a story of what might soon be the last forest left and what that means for the future of all life on earth.
Ben Rawlence
Ben Rawlence is a former researcher for Human Rights Watch in the horn of Africa. He is the author of City of Thorns and Radio Congo and has written for a wide range of publications, including The Guardian, the London Review of Books, and Prospect. He is the founder and director of Black Mountains College and lives with his family in Wales.
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Reviews for The Treeline
22 ratings1 review
- Rating: 4 out of 5 stars4/5This is a well researched book on athe forest areas in the upper tier of the Northern Hemisphere. The author starts in Scotland and he goes around the world ending up in Greenland. The principle focus here is on the impact that global warming is having. It is not a happy story. As we know things are changing rapidly. My feeling is that all this data has been amassed to tell us something that most educated people already know. The book offers no solutions.
Book preview
The Treeline - Ben Rawlence
Prologue
Taxus baccata, yew
LLANELIEU, WALES: 52° 00′ 01′ N
Behind my house is a very large and very old tree. I never gave it much thought, a commonplace thing, a gnarled old tree by a churchyard, a typical Welsh scene. But lately I have found myself paying more attention to trees.
The tree in question is a yew, Taxus baccata. It stands on a mound several feet above the road, roots tightly gathered below the soil, bunched muscles under skin. The yew’s delicate evergreen needles resemble fine hair and they hang from great curved branches in an untidy fringe hiding a face—a shy green man perhaps. To approach the trunk, you must duck your head beneath the swooping fringe and part the branches like heavy sacred curtains, as if venturing behind an altar. It is a mysterious refuge from the path only steps away, rich with the acid tang of evergreen, of life.
On the opposite bank of the path is another yew, slightly smaller but with the same smooth pinkish bark, furry and sticky in places. I follow its exposed roots bursting from the soil, snarling their way along the bank and under the path, entangling with those of its larger neighbor, forming one living structure. Upon closer inspection, the smaller tree is sporting bright red berries: she is female. The larger one, without fruits, is male. They are a handsome, imposing pair, but, try as I might, I can’t find anyone who knows how old these ancient lovers are, nor how they got here.
Dating yew trees is notoriously hard. This is partly because there is no upper age limit. They grow rapidly in youth, steadily in middle age and can survive in senescence for an apparently unlimited period. Sometimes growth can stop and the tree can stand dormant for long periods, possibly centuries. Tree ring analysis fails with yews. Like cedars, they can grow from a low-hanging branch that has rooted in the soil, and shoots can sprout from stumps; left alone, a yew might be capable of regenerating itself forever. This was one of the things that made them sacred to the Celts. They worshipped the yew with its toxic red berries, pink flesh and copious sap precisely for its godlike attributes, its ability to bestow life and death and for its claim to immortality. The churchyard is circular, an indicator of a llan—a pre-Christian sacred site preceding the little Norman church. Yews are often found with llan. The old couple standing quietly above the stone circle, holding hands under the path for centuries if not millennia, might be the reason the village of Llanelieu is here at all.
Ancient trees are a source of wonder. Refugees from another era with a life cycle so much longer than human timescales. Their distribution and range is the result of incredibly long planetary cycles of geology, climate and evolution. The curious distribution of yews, for example, found only in the high mountains of Central Asia and scattered redoubts of northern Europe, suggests that it must once have been more widespread and is now a relict species—the remaining examples are outliers from a different epoch. This may be a consolation in moments of crisis, a reminder that our concerns are mere specks in the deep accumulated time of thousands upon thousands of tree rings. But now that humanity has upset the planetary systems of oceans, forests, winds and currents, the balance of gases in water and air that gave rise to our species, their consolations are in question. Trees no longer offer comfort, but warning.
It is our complacent attitude to time that is the first casualty of global warming: millennia have become moments. These days I cannot look at the mountain, the forest or the field without feeling the ground tremble in both anticipation and memory. Our best guide to the coming uncertainty is history: geology, glaciology and dendrochronology—the studies of rocks, ice and trees. Thus, the past and the future are made immanent, time has become slippery, and a walk in the hills can make you dizzy. Suddenly I see trees everywhere: where they are not, where they have been, where they should be. It is a way of looking at the landscape outside of time, as people closer to the earth have always done. And, seen as such, the view looks wrong. The clean, green lines of the Black Mountains that rise above the church and the village now appear to me a tragic desert, a monument to a geological epoch of collective human folly.
These hills are the border between England and Wales. The crossing of this line first by the Romans, then later by the Danes and then the medieval kings of England marked the beginning of a movement which is finally reaching its endgame in the last great vestiges of wildwood on the planet: the tropical Amazon and the subarctic boreal. The Romans, Danes and the nobles of England were in search of natural resources, principally timber. The colonization of Wales was the first expression of an economic system founded on overreach: having exceeded the limits of what their own environment could sustain, early mercantilists applied force to acquire tribute and resources elsewhere. Empire, whether British, Viking, Roman or otherwise, is by definition overreach. And colonialism, capitalism and white supremacy share a common, perverse philosophy: limits on some humans’ freedom of action are seen as an affront to the principle of freedom itself. The exact opposite of the coevolutionary dynamic of the forest.
Once upon a time, these hills were covered in trees. All that’s left now is a patchy ecosystem called ffridd or coedcae—hawthorn, scrub and bracken mixed with broadleaves—a transition zone between lowland and upland habitats. The peat on the top is testament to the forest that once was. But that was before our neolithic ancestors cleared the forest for grazing and fuel, and before our later penchant for deer, grouse and, of course, sheep. Before the trees, however, before there was any covering on the rock at all, there was ice.
The last ice age ended ten thousand years ago, mere seconds on the planetary clock. The old yews of Llanelieu could be the grandchildren or even the children of one of the first trees that took root as the ice retreated. Conifers like yews have evolved specifically in relation to the cycles of ice. They thrive in marginal environments, in tough soil with limited nutrition. This is the process of the treeline at work. For the treeline is not really a line at all.
The fact that in modern usage the term treeline
has come to mean a fixed line on a map indicating the growing limit of trees is simply evidence of the very narrow time horizons of humans, and of how much we have come to take our current habitat for granted. In fact, the growing conditions for trees whether limited by altitude (up a mountainside) or latitude (toward the North Pole), are only as certain as the environment that produces them: the availability of soil, nutrients, light, carbon dioxide and warmth. For a couple of millennia these climatic conditions have remained remarkably constant, but over longer timescales tiny changes in global temperature have meant that the treeline has always been a moving target.
The ice has come and gone many times. And each time nature has begun again, slowly recolonizing the land scoured of soil. First comes lichen, then moss, then grasses, shrubs and the pioneer trees like birch and hazel that improve the soil and dump tons of leaf litter for the slower-moving greats that follow: the pine, sessile oak and yew. Left to its own devices, nature’s equilibrium in most habitats on earth unless limited by cold or drought tends toward the eventual production of forest. And thus, as the ice moved north, the treeline slowly followed, taking root in meager soil, photosynthesizing, shedding its needles, then dying to create the rich fertile crust of the earth, laying the foundations for the habitats of all other terrestrial life. There is scarcely a patch of the northern hemisphere over which the treeline has not passed.
Ever since the Pliocene epoch, three million years ago, when the explosion of plants cooled the atmosphere to its modern equilibrium, ice ages have marked our planet in 100,000-year pulses. The pulse is because the earth does not spin evenly but wobbles like a top. The wobble is called the Milankovitch cycle. It tilts the planet a fraction away from the sun every 100,000 years, chilling it ever so slightly and causing the ice at the poles to expand and retreat in a millennial version of our annual seasons. The South Pole is an island and glaciers are rare in the southern hemisphere apart from New Zealand and Patagonia. The northern hemisphere meanwhile has been forested and deforested over and over. Time-lapse photography of geological time on planet earth would show a sheet of ice descending and retreating in a rhythmic pattern, and a green mass of forest rising toward the North Pole then falling again, like breath.
But now the planet is hyperventilating. This bright green halo is moving unnaturally fast, crowning the planet with a laurel of needles and leaves, turning the white Arctic green. The migration of the treeline north is no longer a matter of inches per century; instead it is hundreds of feet every year. The trees are on the move. They shouldn’t be. And this sinister fact has enormous consequences for all life on earth.
I can’t remember where or when I first heard about trees on the march. But the image stayed with me for several years before I took the trouble to research what was actually going on. I had assumed scientists had observed minor increments of change, perhaps in response to recent warming trajectories over the last few decades. I was totally unprepared for what I discovered.
I learned that the Arctic tundra is getting shrubbier, turning green; but this is not a simple story of trees gorging themselves on carbon dioxide and racing north. It is a picture of a planet in flux, of ecosystems adjusting to massive changes and trying to find their balance. Of forests the size of nations being destroyed by fire, parasites and humans every year while elsewhere precious tundra is colonized by trees now rendered as invasive species. Forests are evolving their communities of species or popping up where there should be none, creating havoc for those animals and humans whose survival strategies relied on them staying put.
Our maps are out of date. The position of the Arctic treeline has been one of the definitions of the Arctic Circle. It almost exactly tracks another, the ten-degree July isotherm—the line around the top of the world marking an average summer temperature of ten degrees Celsius. This wavy line briefly touches the tops of the Cairngorm Mountains in Scotland before making land again in the interior of Scandinavia away from the temperate forested fjords. From the plateau of Finnmark, it then runs in an unbroken line from Russia’s White Sea across the top of Siberia to the Bering Strait. In Alaska the treeline pushes up against the Brooks Range before taking a diagonal plunge across Canada, meeting the sea once more at Hudson Bay. On the other side of that inland sea it wends its way through Quebec and mountainous Labrador and then makes the leap to southern Greenland.
This is the route of the journey described in this book, but the concept of a line itself is misleading. Zoom in, and the treeline is not a line at all but a transition zone between ecosystems, what scientists call the forest–tundra ecotone (FTE), in some cases hundreds of miles wide and in others a matter of feet. As the climate warms, the zone and the huge ecosystems of tundra and forest on either side are being transformed in diverse and unexpected ways. And anyway, the line is wrong. The ten-degree July isotherm is no longer a stable fact upon which cartographers can rely; it swings wildly all over the place, as summer temperatures in Siberia, Greenland, Alaska and Canada can attest. Where trees are able to grow and where they actually are now has become steadily uncoupled. This makes the whole area a zone of possibility, and of threat.
Journeying along the zone, I learned much about the fundamental role the northern forest plays in regulating earth’s present climate. More than the Amazon rain forest, the boreal is truly the lung of the world. Covering one fifth of the globe, and containing one third of all the trees on earth, the boreal is the second largest biome, or living system, after the ocean. Planetary systems—cycles of water and oxygen, atmospheric circulation, the albedo effect, ocean currents and polar winds—are shaped and directed by the position of the treeline and the functioning of the forest.
I learned how little we know about the changing operation of these systems under warming. We know the world is getting dangerously hotter; we don’t yet know what that will mean for us or the other life forms of the forest. As they warm, forests are losing their ability to absorb and store carbon dioxide. While the boreal is the greatest planetary source of oxygen, more trees there does not necessarily mean more carbon sequestered from the atmosphere. As trees invade frozen tundra they hasten the melting of permafrost, frozen soils that contain enough greenhouse gases to accelerate global warming beyond anything scientists have modeled. Many contradictory things are happening at the same time.
The earth is out of balance, and the treeline zone is a territory in the grip of large geological change, confounding and challenging our ideas of the past, present and future. We are in between stories. The old story, the account of how the world came to be and how we fit into it, is no longer effective. Yet we have not learned the new stories,
says the cultural historian Thomas Berry.¹ I found the seeds of those new stories rooted in older arrangements in the boreal. For the most part, forests are places where human ways of coexisting with nature on equal terms still persist.
The terrain, both scientific and geographic, though, is vast, and the scope of what the boreal represents so huge, it seemed impossible to encompass within the scope of a single book. It was only when I discovered that a tiny handful of tree species make up the treeline that I began to see that an attempt at description might be possible. An elite club, the six featured here are the familiar markers of the northern territories: three conifers and three broadleaves evolved to survive the cold. Moreover, remarkably, each of these tree species has made a section of the treeline its own, outcompeting other species and anchoring unique ecosystems: Scots pine in Scotland, birch in Scandinavia, larch in Siberia, spruce in Alaska and, to a lesser extent, poplar in Canada and rowan in Greenland. I decided to visit each tree in its native territory, to see how the different species were faring in response to warming, and what their stories might mean for the other inhabitants of the forest, including us. My visits to the different places occurred between 2018 and 2020 at different times of year to capture the seasonal workings of the forest, but the chapters that follow are arranged geographically, tracking the treeline east, toward the rising sun.
These northern species are few, but they are tough. In the long game of geological natural selection, only the most creative survive at these latitudes of extreme cold. While the delicate, biodiverse, tropical rain forests may have maintained a familiar assemblage of species for millions of years, the more northerly latitudes are slates that have been wiped clean again and again. This is the place to look for a glimpse of what, after the great transformation currently unfolding on earth, will remain. Thousands or perhaps millions of years from now, when the planet cools again, the species that creep out to repopulate the earth could well be those that are endemic to the boreal. They are uniquely adapted to climate change. They have been riding the tides of ice for millennia. Deforestation and existing emissions in the atmosphere have already doomed much of the world’s rain forest to savannah. My neighbors, the old green man and woman of Llanelieu, might make it, depending on how hot and dry the island of Great Britain becomes, and depending on the scale and success of human efforts to limit the damage, but the last forest will be the boreal. When humans are only fossils, it is these hardy northern species that will still be standing tall.
1.
The Zombie Forest
Pinus sylvestris, Scots pine
GLEN LOYNE, SCOTLAND: 57° 04′ 60′ N
As the ice retreated to higher ground at the beginning of the current interglacial period, the boreal forest set off in pursuit. Plants that had not been seen on the islands of Britain for thousands of years began, gradually, to return. Ice persisted on the uplands of north Wales and the Highlands of Scotland, but in the valleys and the plains, lichens formed a crust on the exposed rocks. Then came mosses with their creeping fur, laying the ground for grasses and sedges first, soon to be followed by the pioneer shrubs of hazel, birch, willow, juniper and aspen. This boreal system worked its way north, across the land bridge where the English Channel now is, a sweeping tide of green on the heels of the ice, the cocktail of early seeds dispersed according to the natural cycles of wind, rain and the migratory patterns of animals, including humans.
Ten thousand years later, I follow. Pointing the car north from Wales, I head to where the map says the treeline has come to a halt at its present position: Scotland. Driving to Fort William through the spectacular soaring valleys along the west coast of Scotland, the rocky outcrops of the peaks appear stationary, like the roof of a cathedral merging with the sky. The rich green slopes roll back and forth with every bend in the road; scree tumbles in long runnels like waterfalls from hidden lakes of rocks high above. Sunlight shears the view, one minute blinding, the next revealing a promised land.
It is not until I am actually there that the contradiction strikes: I am searching for the upper limit of the forest, but where is the forest? Scotland’s forbidding hills, rank upon rank of shadowed slopes rising out of the mist, are such a durable a sight in collective memory and culture it is almost impossible to imagine them otherwise, and yet Britain was once, briefly, an island of trees. Caledonia, as it was named by the Romans, means wooded heights,
but its great wood
has become a mythical thing. Scotland’s bare hills are both epitaph and warning: this is where the commodification of nature leads.
To ask what is happening to the treeline in such a ruined landscape is a profoundly political question. On paper, Scotland is held to be the southern and western limit of the Arctic treeline in Europe; estimates based on temperature and growing seasons suggest that here it should be at 2,300–2,400 feet.¹ Stumps have been excavated at 2,600 feet dating from a slightly warmer era four thousand years ago.² But how the treeline is responding to warming now is hard to say because nearly all the trees were cut down. Efforts to restore Scotland’s great wood are under way, re-wilding
the hills and planting trees, partly to allow them to find their level and re-establish a natural transition zone between the forest and the moor. But such changes are controversial. How we see the present and the future often depends on our understanding of the past. What is natural? What is being restored? Meanwhile, as humans debate ecological history, global warming gathers force, threatening to render our meager response irrelevant.
The treeline’s first wave, or primary, vegetative cover after the last ice age resulted in a patchy forest that the foremost historian of British landscape, Oliver Rackham, calls wildwood.³ This was a dynamic shifting community of plants—at its southern end connected to mainland Europe by the land bridge, and at its northern frontier petering out into the moorland tundra of the flow
country in the far north of Scotland and the scattered rocks of the Hebrides, where the dry cold of the Arctic polar vortex wrestles with the Gulf Stream for influence.
This wildwood was rampant but precarious. Birch was quick to establish but transitory, giving way to other, bigger and bolder trees. As the evolving society of the forest worked out its own logic, a steady state would emerge with a particular tree or trees dominant. In much of southern England this was lime, in the north and Wales it was a mix of hazel and oak. In the Highlands of Scotland the apex tree was originally oak. But the steady state of the wildwood could be upset and tipped into another cycle by an influx of a new species or a change in the weather. The introduction of the pine was one of these.
Around 8500 BCE pollen records show Scots pine (Pinus sylvestris) arriving suddenly across Britain, colonizing a corridor up the west coast of the British Isles, nosing its way into the inlets and fjords of Scotland and then across the straths and valleys and up into the mountains. Pine out-competed the birch and oak that had generously worked up sufficient soil for it to flourish. So successful was the pine that the birch disappeared almost completely for thousands of years, surviving only in a remnant zone in the flow country north of what is now the city of Inverness.
This pine wood spread across Scotland, reaching its apex of around 80 percent of the land area, according to Rackham, around 4500 BCE. Recent archaeology, pollen analysis and even the 7,000-year-old bones of pine trees preserved in bogs have fed debate about the scale and the fate of Scotland’s once magnificent wildwood.⁴ Conservationists are seeking a record to guide their attempts at ecological restoration.
Opponents are seeking evidence that the trees were eliminated through natural causes and that the current status quo of grouse moors and deer parks is just as deserving of the designation natural.
At issue, it seems, is one vision of nature over another, neither of which attributes much influence to humans for creating the shape of the landscape in the first place, and yet the history of humans and the history of the forest is deeply entwined.
Before driving north, I read a scientific paper by Lithuanian researchers demonstrating that the DNA of the Scots pine in the eastern half of Scotland came from a refugium—a place where species survived the last ice age—near Moscow around 9000–8000 BCE.⁵ Previous DNA analysis has shown that the surviving pines in the west of Scotland came from the Iberian peninsula in modern-day Portugal and Spain. In both cases the seed migrated to Scotland on timescales hundreds of times faster than is possible through natural succession. The most likely vehicle for such rapid migration was humans.
There is a myth in Celtic folklore—with an apparent grain of truth—that when the Celts colonized Scotland they met Ukrainians coming the other way. For the Celts, the pine was a sacred tree with a myriad of uses. The pine was ailm in the Celtic alphabet, the ogham script, and it is very likely that they brought it with them from Ireland and Wales. It was perhaps sacred too for the mysterious Ukrainians, who were part of the Celtic kingdom, the people of the Danube
in old Irish, the only others with red hair. For humans so tied to nature and reliant on plants it would make sense to travel with your own habitat. Something twenty-first-century humans might soon wish we were able to do.
The result, in the present day, is two distinct genetic communities of Scots pine in Scotland divided by the Highlands. They have yet to cross-pollinate and conservationists are keen that they do not since the genetic and chemical distinctiveness has consequences for other species that rely on the keystone of the pine. Insects like wood ants, for example, can taste differences in resin and will choose particular trees as a result. Leaf chemistry, flower timings and growth forms are all different. The crested tit remains east of the Cairngorms, embedded in its environment. However, the conservationists needn’t worry yet. The risk of interbreeding is minimal since the fragments of surviving forest are spread out and very small. Less than 1 percent of Scotland’s old-growth pine woods remain.
Rackham argues that the pine wood never stretched from shore to shore, but it certainly covered most of Scotland until Mesolithic humans began to clear the forest for agriculture, hunting and construction. Managing the forest through felling, clearing or burning for game played a role in creating biodiverse habitats of heath and moor, but also set the stage for the creeping blanket bog that has become upland Britain’s signature landscape. The bog is, in a sense, a ruined ecosystem as tree clearance has allowed minerals and iron to be washed into the lower layers of the soil, creating a pan impermeable to water. Unable to drain, the tundra-type landscape becomes waterlogged, and plants do not fully decompose, forming peat.
The pastoralist indigenous crofters, who farmed the Highlands till the clearances of the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, traditionally moved their cattle between the lowland forest and the moor. The clearances and the subsequent expansion of Victorian shooting estates for grouse and deer are often blamed for the deforestation of the Highlands, but while heather burning and overgrazing by deer in the absence of apex predators like wolves, lynx and bears did indeed prevent the trees from coming back, much of the open upland landscape had already been formed by clearing all the trees.
Traditional custom and practice, inherited from the Celts, respected the woods. Pine was a renewable source of building materials, fir candles for light, tar and resin for tanning and waterproofing, fibers for ropes and bark for kindling, flour and medicine. Until well into the 1960s, pine sap provided tallow for candles, forest timber was used for railway sleepers and boats, and pipes were made from hollowed out trunks. Indigenous systems apportioned a host of rights to goods provided by the forest—hazel rods, firewood, timber, mushrooms and animal fodder—and there were strict moral and financial penalties for wasteful coppicing, for unsanctioned pannage (the grazing of animals in common woods) and so on. As many other more recent episodes of tropical deforestation show, indigenous use of the forest is often the most reliable form of conservation. The so-called tragedy of the commons (that humans cannot be trusted to manage a common resource sensibly) might be a problem for individualistic societies unable to restrain pollution and overexploitation, but as a historical explanation for the British landscape it doesn’t hold except perhaps as a retrospective ideological justification for the real tragedy to follow: the enclosure of common land.⁶
Property rights over land was originally a Roman idea resisted by both Greeks and Celts, who maintained that nature could never be owned by humans, only used. Hundreds of years after the Romans left Britain this notion cleared the path for foreign landlords and the extreme concentration of land ownership in Scotland today.⁷ The woods had been used by the clans. They needed the forest. Indeed the word forest
and its endurance on maps despite the lack of any trees, is an echo of its earlier meaning as an unfenced area protected for hunting and common use, more latterly by the Crown. The shift from rights of usage to rights of ownership, seen as the mercantile spirit of northern Europe inveigled or imposed itself across the world, was, it seems, the crucial shift, as forests ceased to be seen as sacred places of wonder, mystery and sustenance and instead became a standing crop with a value expressed in pounds, shillings and pence calculated by the acre and the ton.
Scotland and Ireland and their natural resources, foremost among them their remaining timber, were the front line of that early capitalist desire that expressed itself in colonialism. English kings needing ships, houses, carts and cathedrals from the medieval period onward—well before Henry Hudson and John Davis were dreaming of the Northwest passage and Sir Walter Raleigh of the Orinoco—first looked to Wales and then their colony of Ireland. Then, with the Scottish and English Crowns united and Ireland’s woods gone, it was to Scotland that they turned.
Along Loch Linnhe, low cotton-candy clouds scud between the peaks of Ardgour across the water. The peninsula holds the most southwesterly remaining relict pine wood, within the estate of Conaglen, a property given over to deer stalking. In a hollow between hills lies the last scrap of forest to which former generations owed so much of their wealth. An observer commenting on the huge amounts of timber being imported into Ireland from Scotland wrote in 1686, there used manie shipps to come to that countrie of Ardgoure, and to be loaded with firr jests, masts and cuts. This glen is verie profitable to the Lord.
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The green hills sheer into the black depths of the loch. A train rattles along beside the water heading for the end of the line. The wealth of the forest even shaped the geography of Scotland. The River Spey was dammed and altered to facilitate the floating of logs to the sawmills and shipbuilders of Speyside until steam railways put the floaters with their particular vocabulary and their currachs—a light frame boat covered with hide for the return journey upstream—out of business. On the west coast the timber came out along General Wade’s military road and then the railway that terminates at Fort William at the head of Loch Linnhe.
Beyond Fort William, the famous Road to the Isles opens up. Majestic sonorous glens beneath blue peaks fall away to face Skye across the sea at Knoydart. Instead of timeless, this landscape now appears apocalyptic to me: the victim of a catastrophe. It is perhaps a miracle that any old-growth forest has survived at all. However, due to the odd enlightened laird, far-sighted forestry official or sheer remoteness, eighty-four fragments of native Caledonian pine wood remain. These are the granny pines,
gnarled and apparently half-dead characters that animate the otherwise blank canvas of some Scottish hillsides. The oldest known specimen is 540 years old and grows in a remote boggy valley called Glen Loyne. These are the only trees that were large enough to escape browsing after the wolves were extirpated and the deer and sheep allowed to run riot.
There is something profoundly wrong with a solitary pine. Pines are social creatures; they rely on other trees for sharing resources through fungal networks. When mature, pines transport carbon underground to support young saplings, and in old age carbon and nutrients travel in reverse, the young trees helping out the older ones. The natural lifespan of a Scots pine is up to six hundred or seven hundred years within the healthy network of a forest. Scotland’s surviving granny pines are mostly under four hundred. Major dips in the pollen record suggest this is because of the massive extraction of trees from 1690 to 1812. According to dendrochronologist Rob Wilson, You can still see the effects of the Napoleonic Wars in the structure of the forest.
But there is another factor.
Lone trees are prone to sudden dying before the end of their normal life expectancy. Could it be that these matriarchs of our oldest forests, these stewards of our ancient ecosystems and midwives of so much industrial wealth are, in their old age, lonely? Native American stories tell of solitary trees speaking
to humans of their loneliness, asking people to plant them neighbors. Are the granny pines missing the companionship, and the meals on wheels, provided by their children? Are they mourning the ghost of the