Fun fact: the Swiss industry’s preferred term to use when unveiling brand new models is ‘novelties’. It amused me 20 years ago when I first heard it, and it still amuses me today when I'm being introduced to the latest watches from Rolex, JLC, Vacheron Constantin – you name it. But some new releases really are 'novel' novelty watches in the true sense of the word. Because they are somewhere between being totally bonkers, utterly far-fetched, or mind-blowing feats of watchcraftery.
While we'll continue to chuckle at any confusion the word novelties brings to any quarters, here are 10 novelty watches of the highest orders that might surprise even the most jaded of horophiles.
Patek Philippe Calatrava ‘1948 Nations Grand Prix'
This 10-piece limited edition based on Patek Philippe's simple Calatrava model features dials that capture a scene from the 1948 Nations Grand Prix, a long-forgotten race staged in Geneva from 1946 – 1950. The cars are depicted using 17 colours of ‘grand feu’ enamel against a backdrop of the city’s famous ‘jet d’eau’. POA. At patek.com
Perrelet Turbine ‘Poker’
Perrelet dates right back to 1777 – but it wasn’t until 2009 that the brand launched its wacky ‘Turbine’ line in which a multi-bladed fan spins at impressively high speed whenever the watch is moved. The dial beneath the turbine on this poker version shows the dream hand – a royal flush (ace, king, queen, jack and 10) plus a pair of hearts and a pair of spades. €4,750. At perrelet.com
Roger Dubuis Excalibur ‘Knights of the Round Table’
We would love to have been there when someone at RD had the Eureka moment that inspired substituting 12 conventional hour markers for the 12 knights of the round table. The decidedly un-dirty dozen are forged from pink gold and arranged around a ‘table’ made from an intricate mosaic of Murano glass. A penny for Sir Lancelot's thoughts. POA. At rogerdubuis.com
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Celebration
Rolex's humble OP gets a rare moment in the limelight this year thanks to the introduction of these ‘bubblicious’ Celebration versions that combine the colours of the pink, blue, yellow, red and green lacquered dials that got collectors into a lather back in 2020. Choose from 31mm, 35mm and 41mm case sizes. And when we say choose, good luck actually getting your hands on one of these. £5,400 (41mm). At rolex.com
Hublot Spirit of Big Bang Sang Bleu
Hublot’s third and latest collab with hipster favourite tattoo studio Sang Bleu has resulted in a case shape which can only be described as ‘unique’. Inspired by the style of tats that emerge from the needle of Sang Bleu founder Maxime Plescia-Buchi, the new model can be had in titanium, ceramic, or Hublot’s special ‘King Gold’ set with 80 diamonds. From £24,400. At hublot.com
Ulysse Nardin Freak ONE
Look! No hands. Or dial. Or crown. When it comes to novelty watches, you don't get much more novel than this one. Ulysse Nardin’s original Freak certainly blew minds/turned head/upset watch purists when it was launched in 2001, and this re-interpretation of the original seems no less far-out two decades later. For anyone perplexed, you read the time off the pointer on the revolving movement (obvs); and wind it using the rotating ring on the back. £60,330. At ulysse-nardin.com
Cartier Prive Tank Asymetrique
If you think the Cartier Asymetrique looks weird today, imagine how odd it must have seemed when first unveiled in 1936. Back then it was called the Parallelograme and was only made to order for a very limited time. The design was re-introduced three years ago, with this skeleton model in platinum being the latest variation on the theme. An absolute stunner. £75,000. At cartier.com
Ralph Lauren American Western Collection
Yeeee-ha pardner – if you like rodeos, chaps and Stetson hats you’re gonna love RL’s Western watches which are decorated with patterns based on the intricate designs found on sharp shooters’ rifles and the finest cowboy saddles. With cases cast in rose gold or sterling silver and lavishly-patterned, hand-tooled straps, these American beauties are made strictly to order. From £21,100. At ralphlauren.co.uk
Kross Studio Game of Thrones
Kross Studio has created five unique watch sets inspired by five dragons from Game of Thrones. Each set features a one-off tourbillon watch and (naturally) a hand-crafted ‘dragon egg’ in which to store it. Dials are made using Damascus steel from the foundry used by HBO to forge the show’s swords of ‘Valyrian steel'. Winter is coming etc etc. SFR 108,000. At kross-studio.ch
Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers Musee de Louvre
If you’ve always coveted a particular artwork from the Louvre, now’s your chance to own a sanctioned copy. Vacheron Constantin has partnered with the celebrated Paris museum to enable buyers to create one-off watches with dials enamelled with miniature reproductions of some of its famous exhibits. POA. At vacheron-constantin.com
