Be it a first grail watch, your next grail watch, or a one and only holy grail that you're casually in the market for, here are 15 pieces that could melt your heart just as much as they could evoke absolutely nothing inside you. But we suggest you take a look anyway – just in case.
Future classics can take a bit of time to register in the zeitgeist. AP’s intro of the Code 11.59 collection in 2019 didn’t draw universal heart emojis all round – it’s been a slow burner. But this steel flyback chrono has opened more eyes to the model’s stellar potential. Powered by the lovely Calibre 4401 movement and in blue or green dial versions, each with a matching strap, it’s one of the more accessible APs in the game. £32,100. At audemarspiguet.com
Wherever Georges Kern is, he’s always dead set on upping that brand’s cool factor. For Breitling, linking it to the motorcycle scene seems the way to go – through partnerships with Triumph, biking adventures organiser Malle London, and cult Australia-based custom shop Deus ex Machina. The latter’s Carby Tuckwell pitched in on the design of this new watch. We love the “squircle” subs. £6,250. At breitling.com
Though unlikely to ever be put to the test, it’s good to know Citizen’s solar-powered Eco-Drive watches can run for six months in pitch black. We digress. This Promaster Diver features a dial made from recycled polycarbonate and is a shade of the sleekest colour out there – black. Another straight fact: Citizen was so pleased with this watch, it commissioned a Japanese ska band to sing about it. £850. citizenwatch.co.uk
It’s fun when history repeats itself, especially when Alpine Eagles are involved. Way back when, Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele persuaded his father to make the St Moritz luxury steel sports watch. Now, Karl-Fritz Scheufele has done the same thing. Since changing the name to Alpine Eagle, it’s taken off, evolving to a 36-model line-up in a wide variety of styles. This 36mm stunner is made from ethical rose gold and iced with sapphires. POA. At chopard.com
Don’t rush to the shops to get hold of this limited-edition Hublot, because it’s the latest in a range of online exclusives. Titanium everything makes for a watch that’s large but light, with the grey effect a result of some judicious sandblasting. Just 100 examples will be available, with each one being sold with a £900 service thrown in. £20,800. hublot.com
The instantly recognisable green livery of the Aston Martin Cognizant F1 team gave Girard-Perregaux the inspo to incorporate it all over a new AM Laureato. The dial colour matches the case and bracelet, which are made from the same ceramic as the cars’ brake discs. The cross-hatch pattern of the dial mimics the diamond-like pattern found on the AM logo of the ’20s. £29,100. At girard-perregaux.com
While full calendar watches show day, date, and month, a moonphase tracks the position of the moon at all times. Mad, right? And yet quizzically beguiling. This Montblanc has more luna than meets the eye, as its intense blue dial captures the colour the glacier at Mont Blanc’s summit turned at 6:23pm on 8 August 1786, when the moon rose and Jacques Balmat became the first person to reach it. £4,000. At montblanc.com
Omega follows the trend for down-sized cases with its latest land-and-sea-worthy Aqua Terra. Nautical nuances include a wave-edge case back design. The in-house Calibre 8800 movement meets the stringent standards of the Swiss Institute of Metrology (METAS), earning it “master chronometer” status. It’s supplied on a steel bracelet, but go check Omega’s 79 strap options, too. £6,400. At omegawatches.com
The Tambour has long been known for the heft of its drum-like case, but LV watch boss Jean Arnault has given it a sleek makeover, shrinking it to 40mm and slimming it to 8.3mm. The new version is a contender for integrated bracelet of the year, and following July’s launch in steel, baller versions are now available in yellow and rose gold. £49,500. At louisvuitton.com
Who said three-hand dress watches were dated? The mighty Crown that is Rolex has harked back to the days of its original Oyster Perpetual of 92 years ago for the aesthetic of the 39mm yellow gold 1908 (hello part smooth/part fluted bezel and slim case). Inside there’s a whole new movement with five patented features – and, unusually for Rolex, it has let us see it through a crystal back. £18,500. At rolex.com
Zenith upsized its historic Defy design in 2021, giving it a 45mm case and calling it Extreme. Ever since, the rugged sports watch has been made available in multiple finishes and materials – but none has been quite as bling as the liquid metal-like Mirror, which is ultra-polished all over. Inside beats the super-accurate El Primero 21 double escapement chronograph, which can record time to a laser-like 1/100th of a second. £23,100. At zenith-watches.com
A lot of memorable things happened in 2012, but in the watch world, nothing garnered attention quite like the burgundy-bezel Black Bay. Those first BBs are now collectable but for similar money, you can have a new version with manufacture movement, METAS certification and a five-year warranty. The only thing missing is the original’s gnarled leather strap – though this five-link stainless steel bracelet takes things up a notch. £3,790. At tudorwatch.com
TAG Heuer and Ryan Gosling have had a busy year celebrating 60 years of the Carrera driver’s watch, launching a host of different models. But the pièce de résistance is this limited edition based on the gold Carreras gifted to Ferrari F1 drivers between 1971 and 1979. Ronnie Peterson’s (given to him by Jack Heuer and engraved with the word “Success”) fetched a record £170,000 back in 2016 but, if you’re F1 quick, you can snag a new Success for a whole lot less. £18,750. At tagheuer.com
Though the timekeeping display on this pink-gold beaut is entirely conventional, the unusual retrograde date setup makes it very intriguing. As the name suggests, the arrow hands pointing to the date at the top of the dial and the days of the week towards the bottom automatically spring back to their starting points at the end of their respective cycles. Also comes in blue and white. POA. At vacheron-constantin.com
In the process of telling the time with precision and refined grandeur, this dive watch from the Longines Heritage collection nails that oft-impossible task: finding the sweet spot between vintage aesthetics and modern functionality. Carbon copies of classic ’60s watches are a sought-after niche of their own, and done right they give the classic watch enthusiasts on Instagram fresh material to froth over. “The Legend Diver features an internal rotating bezel, which is operated by one of the two crowns on the side of the case, which not only gives it a unique look but also reduces the chances of the bezel being accidentally moved,” says Paul Altieri of Bob’s Watches. “It also retains the vintage Longines logo to emphasise its connection to the brand’s rich history." £3,050. At longines.com
