You probably already know that a pinstripe suit is defined by the pattern of vertical stripes that runs through its fabric. What you might not know, however, is that pinstripes first came to light in the early 19th century when British bankers used different widths and shades to denote the specific companies they worked for.
It wasn’t until later, in the 1930s and 1940s, that musicians, gangsters and actors started wearing pinstripe, with everyone from Al Capone to Clark Gable choosing the style as their signature (see Gone With The Wind for an excellent example of the latter’s proficiency with a pinstripe). It was in the 1960s and 1970s that pinstripe truly came into its own. French musician Serge Gainsbourg started wearing pinstripe suits with Chelsea boots, jeans and military shirts, while Mick Jagger mixed his up with waistcoats. Pinstripe also played a big part in the banking boom of the 1980s, fairly obviously, but we‘ll talk less about that if it’s all right with you.
Now, pinstripe is back, with a bunch of our favourite designers putting the style at the core of their seasonal collections. The late Virgil Abloh's last collection for Louis Vuitton opted for a tight, double-breasted suit complete with quirky fastenings and armbands; Grace Wales Bonner incorporated the classic motif in a variety of widths onto a collegiate-like pair of trousers; and Miuccia Prada served super low-rise pinstripe tailoring with a printed button-up shirt and black polo neck. In short, the shows were proof that this age-old motif is far from boring – rather, it’s a smart formal move to inject into a modern wardrobe.
When it comes to wearing your own pinstripe suit this spring, we’d recommend teaming it with an open-collared shirt and some pointed boots. Alternatively, a rollneck and silk scarf will also do the trick. Swap the aforementioned boots for some Converse All Stars if you‘re feeling edgy. Our one no go? Leave the fedora at the door.
Sold on the style but not sure where to go from there? Our pick of the best pinstripe suits from the new season should help…
Nili Lotan
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A razor-sharp bit of tailoring from Nili Lotan, you wear this Phineas jacket to look devilishly handsome whilst sipping cocktails and swiping canapes at an upscale affair. Peaked lapels, flap pockets and figure-flattering tailoring add ample grandeur, so keep your bottom half slim and streamlined for an altogether exquisite ensemble. £1,245. At matchesfashion.com
Hawes & Curtis
If it’s timeless tailoring you’re after, Hawes & Curtis is hard to beat: the brand has been in the business of smart suiting since 1913. It’s even racked up a fair few Royal Warrants in its time, and these awards make sense when you consider the regal construction of its chalk stripe Super 110s wool suit. Amidst neat notched lapels, smart buttoned cuffs and polished pressed pleat trousers, the cape-like quality of its vented rear is our crown jewel. Sophisticated style and comfort? Just what we like to see. Jacket, £229. Trousers, £120. At hawesandcurtis.co.uk
Marks & Spencer
Unless you’re going for a knowing or kitsch look, it’s best to keep the pinstripes slim and/or subtle. For a classic navy suiting addition that’s a whisper different from the rest of your arsenal, try this M&S piece on for size. Aside from lending you a brand new crisp suit for the office, this purchase will give you a spectacular new pair of trews that will look marvellous with a white T-shirt and wayfarer shades. Jacket, £140. Trousers, £85. marksandspencer.com
Tom Ford
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You don’t need us to explain the allure of Tom Ford suits – look to the red carpet of every A-list event and you’re sure to find one stealing the sartorial spotlight. If they’re good enough for the glitterati, they’re good enough for you, and with a lustrous silk blend this pinstripe suit is very good indeed. Not just a handsome, double-breasted face, touches like its fully lined interior and inner welt pocket makes this one as functional as it is fashionable. A win-win. Jacket, £2,820. Trousers, £670. At mytheresa.com
Mango
The last Roger Moore Bond film may be almost forty years old, but the style of the third 007 will continue to live (and let die). If you’re prepared to deal a devastating blow to every other suited gentleman in your vicinity, reach for this outrageously sharp double-breasted number by Mango. Serge Gainsbourg; Alex Turner; Roger Moore as James Bond: all of these people and more would approve. Jacket, £229.99. Trousers, £89.99. At mango.com
Ralph Lauren
An ode to gangster style, this suit from Ralph Lauren updates a Bugsy Malone-esque silhouette for the wardrobe of the modern man. With bold pinstripes, a double-breasted fastening and intensely peak lapels, just add sleek loafers and your favourite watch. Jacket, £595. Trousers, £345. At ralphlauren.co.uk
Allsaints
You can always trust Allsaints to come up with a design that your girlfriend will instantly want to steal. You’ll want to keep your hands on this one, though, no matter how chic this double breasted jacket looks over a summer dress. Shawl lapels and a boxy fit give authenticity to this suit’s ‘Blues’ moniker, while the matching trousers taper at just the right point to show off your new pair of GH Bass loafers. Jacket, £269. Trousers, £139. At asos.com
Thom Browne
In the pinstripe game for the long haul? Time to bring out the big guns. This Thom Browne pairing is a masterclass in idiosyncratic love letters to the classics. It walks and talks like a traditional pinstripe suit, but this special investment pops in its unusual details: a peek of red-striped lining at the vent, a row of buttons at the trouser hem, a prominent white label on both jacket and pants. If it’s a standout talking point you’re after, this is the suit for you. Jacket, £1,530. Trousers, £1,080. At farfetch.com
Burton
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As a general rule, royal blue suits always look good, but when dressed in fine white pinstripes? They look sensational. The vivid fabric of this Burton suit won’t just win you praises for your impeccable taste; cut with viscose to keep a silky drape over time, it gives you a good-looking suit season after season. Extra points for the lushly patterned contrast lining, which you can pull out at the chest for a chic pocket square. £198 at burton.co.uk
Gucci
Taking a logocentric approach to pinstripes, Gucci presents this two-piece suit in a striped pattern detailed with its interlocking-G motifs. With gold-toned thread and a wool construction, luxury is at the forefront of everything that Gucci produces. Heightened with retro touches (we see you, peak lapels), this suit should be accompanied by ringed fingers and shiny monk shoes in true Gucci fashion. £2,340. At mrporter.com
Charles Tyrwhitt
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You can never go wrong with a classic navy pinstripe suit in your closet, and Charles Tyrwhitt’s melange two-piece is as classic as they come. Crafted from Super 110s wool for flexible comfort and wrinkle-resistant style, this regular-fit suit is one you can call on for day-in, day-out wear. A fitting choice for the demands of a corporate nine-to-five, with slick tailoring that’ll dress you sharply for wherever the hours of five-to-nine take you. £299.95. At charlestyrwhitt.com
Reclaimed Vintage
Pinstripes have been a streetwear staple for decades, proving that the casual suit is just as powerful a piece as its formal counterpart. In this Reclaimed Vintage vision, narrow, chalk-like stripes show face on a relaxed fitting camel backdrop. The loose fit on these trousers qualify them as wide leg, entering them into the running as the perfect partner to your new selection of sweater vests. Together, the effect is one of profound nonchalance. Jacket, £49.99. Trousers, £35.99. At asos.com
Kingsman
Following the success of the blockbuster spy franchise, Mr Porter’s Kingsman line has quickly proven itself to be a fail-safe option for signature suits. Our current top pick? This double-breasted pinstripe design, topped with broad peak lapels and cut high in the armholes for the sharpest silhouette possible. Classic, cool and expertly canvassed, this will instantly elevate your style upon wearing. £1,495. At mrporter.com
Best double-breasted suits to make a sartorial statement
