The best selvedge denim jeans for men for long-wearing style
From Levi's to Asket, if its raw style you're looking for then it's time to shop GQ's edit of the best selvedge jeans to buy right now
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Denimheads, whether decorated or aspiring: it’s time to dial in. The subject of today’s menswear discussion is selvedge denim jeans, a long-wearing form of raw denim that goes towards making some of the best blue jeans you’ve ever owned. As some of you know and the rest will soon discover, selvedge denim is the stronghold of workwear craftsmanship that forms the bedrock of any timeless wardrobe.
As is the case with trench coats, car coats, polo shirts and other mainstays of the capsule closet, selvedge denim has some notable etymology. Selvedge (or selvage if you’re American) translates to “self-edge” and refers to the raw hem that finishes denim, a practice that originated in olde worlde times when shuttle looms would produce closed edges to prevent fraying. A favourable by-product of said old-school production? A tighter and more durable weave and a more rigid look that recalls the workwear origins of the denim jean while saving you dosh on replacing your straight fits every few years.
Now, raw selvedge such as is used in denim jeans has found a prestigious spiritual home in Japan, where some of the most authentic looms reside. First pair? Whether your new selvedge denim originates from the USA, UK, or one of the growing number of artisan Japanese brands, you’re in for the best denim experience of your life: in theory, every wash and wear should more closely mould your new kecks to you, making it as bespoke an experience as you can get without visiting a tailor. Onwards, then, to the denim brands making the best selvedge denim jeans you can buy right now.
Best men's selvedge denim jeans at a glance…
- Best overall selvedge denim jeans: Levi 501, £130 at levi.com
- Best heavyweight selvedge denim jeans: Drake's, £295 at drakes.com
- Best affordable selvedge denim jeans: M&S, £60 at marksandspencer.com
- Best Japanese origin selvedge denim jeans: Asket, £125 at asket.com
Is selvedge denim actually better?
As is the case with nearly all style choices, the answer to this question depends entirely on your idea of what constitutes an ideal collection of rivets, belt loops and denim. That being said, there are some objective things we can say for selvedge. For one thing, it’s certainly more long-wearing than your less heavyweight alternatives. It's also worth the effort of wearing in, looking more and more like a piece of tailoring magic the more you wear and wash. For another, it’s what the inventors of denim jeans initially intended its wares to be made out of. Some, who may be less keen on the prospect of ‘wearing in’ your pair (in much the same way you suffer for the perfect leather boots) need not swerve selvedge altogether: as you’ll see from the list to follow, some styles come with a friendly helping of stretch.
Shop GQ's edit of the best selvedge denim jeans for men in 2024…
Best Overall Selvedge Denim Jeans
1/15Levi
- Material: Cotton/hemp blend denim
- Weight: Not stated
- Sizes: 29-50
The original — and very often best among famous denim houses — Levi creates selvedge jeans that should fit you forever. Crafted in honour of the brand’s 150th birthday, these milestone kecks come in several different washes of the straight 501 fit, and are designed to meld perfectly to your shape. Since these have skipped the traditional shrinking phase in the warehouse, all you need to do is wear them in a hot bath for half an hour and you’ll emerge with a custom fitting pair of denim.
Best Heavyweight Selvedge Denim Jeans
2/15Drake's
- Material: Cotton denim
- Weight: 14.2oz
- Sizes: 26-42
If Drake’s is reliable at one thing, it is creating irresistible originals that you’ll wear year after year and season after season. These classic regular tapered jobbies come in heavy Japanese denim that have been bleach washed to our favourite all-time shade: beautiful, natural, white-T-shirt-loving indigo.
Best Japanese Origin Selvedge Denim Jeans
3/15Asket
- Material: Organic cotton denim
- Weight: 13oz
- Sizes: 28-38
Introducing Asket's The Raw Denim jeans… Cut from 13oz Japanese raw denim and crafted in Italy, these selvedge jeans truly have a global appeal. Made to relax, mould and fade to your shape and lifestyle, this pair was designed to follow your lead.
Best Affordable Selvedge Denim Jeans
4/15M&S
- Material: Stretch cotton denim
- Weight: Not stated
- Sizes: 30-40
Designed and crafted by the high street stalwart M&S, these slim-fit, indigo selvedge jeans prove that the brand is capable of a whole lot more than a quaffable bottle of wine and a high-quality meal deal. Namely, some decidedly chic casualwear in the form of subtle stretch denim that's sure to elevate your new-season ensembles. All you're missing is a crisp white T-shirt and the trainers to match.
The Row
5/15The Row
- Material: Cotton denim
- Weight: Not stated
- Sizes: 30-36
Looking for luxury selvedge denim which grants serious fashion credit? The Row's reputation for both is, quite frankly, second to none. Fresh to the New York brand's staple selection, these ‘Ross’ titled jeans reflect only the highest standard through their indigo selvedge denim, straight-leg fit (creating a more tailored and streamlined profile) and oversized patch pockets at the back. In short: well worth the investment.
Nudie Jeans
6/15Nudie
- Material: Organic cotton denim
- Weight: 13.5oz
- Sizes: 24-38
Headed up in Gothenburg, Sweden, Nudie Jeans are a top brand in the selvedge denim market, and this ‘Lean Dean’ model instantly proves why. A vintage wash crafted entirely from organic cotton, it's cut to sit with a slim fit and falls with a tapered leg at the hem (AKA the most flattering finish for all body types). With a 13.5oz weight and subtle stretch for comfort, this one is most definitely a smart selvedge purchase to make.
Noah
7/15Noah
- Material: Cotton denim
- Weight: Not stated
- Sizes: 28-36
To those whose style inclinations revolve around darker and more muted shades, allow us to introduce these selvedge jeans by New York-based brand, Noah. Taking influence from the nonchalant silhouettes of skate, surf and music subcultures, this deep navy design adopts the label’s most relaxed fit – falling to a baggy yet semi-structured leg and sitting with a mid-rise. A pair as timeless as they come, we suggest styling them with a fitted layer on top to really show off their broad profile.
Lee
8/15Lee
- Material: Recycled cotton blend denim
- Weight: 15oz
- Sizes: 29-40
As one of the most iconic names for quality denim, Lee is a failsafe source for a pair of selvedge kecks to last. Our top pick from the brand’s permanent offerings? The 101 style. Assembled in Italy from Japanese selvedge denim (which incorporates recycled cotton in its construction, FYI), they’re dipped in indigo dye for a dense and deep finish before being discreetly contrasted with golden-toned thread around the pockets and hems.
Orslow
9/15Orslow
- Material: Cotton/polyurethane blend denim
- Weight: Not stated
- Sizes: 1-5
Built on a passion for denim, Japanese brand OrSlow is a failsafe source for a classic pair of selvedge jeans – with a special shoutout going to the ‘107’ model. Made in Japan from locally sourced materials and using specialised processes, this slim-fit frame boasts a tough and sturdy textural status: making it a companion best suited to 'gents who favour a solid style profile. Extra points for the upturned hems and contrast topstitching.
Mr P.
10/15Mr P
- Material: Organic cotton blend denim
- Weight: Not stated
- Sizes: 28-38
Enduringly stylish and consciously crafted, Mr Porter’s in-house selvedge jeans prove the retailer’s expertise for good denim. Designed with longevity in mind, they’re assembled from 100 per cent organic cotton which eliminates the use of toxic chemicals during production. If that ethical status isn’t enough to convince you, rest assured that the fit is as flattering as they come: structured, sharp and slim.
Peserico
11/15Peserico
- Material: Cotton denim
- Weight: Not stated
- Sizes: 46-54
White denim may be a divisive piece of clothing, but no one can argue that it looks great with a tan. Since now is the time of year where you're more likely to catch some sun, there's really no greater moment to embrace the bright shade in jean form, a fine option being this pair from Peserico. Shaped with a relaxed fit, fused with a subtle distressed effect and finished with five classic pockets, take our advice and contrast them with a simple black T-shirt to draw full attention to their shade.
Full Count
12/15Full Count
- Material: Cotton denim
- Weight: 13.7oz
- Sizes: 28-40
London based retailer Clutch Cafe was founded with an aim to highlight quality, hard wearing denim designed solely by the best Japanese brands – and in its selection, you’ll find this selvedge style from Osaka-based mill: Full Count. Constructed from 100 per cent Zimbabwean cotton, the denim has a breathable weight of 13.75oz – therefore ideal for slightly warmer days – and is detailed with old-school codes of the jean: from a high rise waist to goatskin leather patch around the back. Big yes.
A.P.C.
13/15A.P.C.
- Material: Cotton denim
- Weight: Not stated
- Sizes: 26-36
Paris’ A.P.C. is no stranger when it comes to everyday essentials, but its New Standard jeans want to be the backbone of your entire wardrobe. With Japanese selvedge denim, these feel quite rigid to begin with, but as soon as you break them in, they’ll quickly become one of most comfortable things that you’ve ever worn in your entire life. So, stop what you’re doing and snap these up while your size is still around.
RRL
14/15RRL
- Material: Cotton denim
- Weight: Not stated
- Sizes: 28-38
RRL gets its name from Mr Ralph Lauren's Colorado ranch, and it’s a collection that’s infused with the frontier flair of America. The Ridgway is one of the line’s most popular pieces, and it’s easy to see why. Cut from selvedge denim that's woven on traditional shuttle looms and indigo rope-dyed for a richer colour, they're beautifully faded, lightly distressed, and deserve a spot in every man’s wardrobe.
Tom Ford
15/15Tom Ford
- Material: Cotton blend denim
- Weight: Not stated
- Sizes: 30-40
It’s time to give your denim game the upgrade that it sorely deserves. With a clean-cut tapered design, Tom Ford’s selvedge jeans feature a lived-in appearance that’s all the rage these days. The back patch is crafted from buttery suede, and each individual button is decorated with the legendary American designer’s name in all caps.
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