We put it to you that in 2022, small British watchmakers are the most creative in Europe. Several independent atelièrs are going about their own business, using innovation – rather than recycled heritage – to tempt a younger demographic away from their smartwatches. Roger Smith OBE laid the foundations of horological craftsmanship on our fair isle, but the times are changing. British designers’ pencils are sharper than Swiss counterparts, and it shows because UK brands are pushing the boundaries. From the tool watches of Vertex and Bremont to the classicism and colour of Fears and Farer, there is a very British language of watch design that comes through in each of their releases.
And God forbid anyone tries to stop the barrage of creativity from the furtive mind of George Bamford and Bamford Watch Department. British watchmaking has a healthy variety of offerings, from cool microbrands like William Wood, Marloe Watch Company, and Christopher Ward to the bespoke beauty of Smith. But this year there is no need to leave our fair isle.
From quirky-cool dials to brash horology, these are some of the best brands to have a closer look at, all with exciting new releases to back up our claim that the Brits are making epic watch best right now.
Vertex M60 AquaLion
Vertex literally has battle-proof heritage and a family lineage. It was one of the Dirty Dozen manufacturers of the WWW (a military acronym, Wrist Watch Waterproof) signed out to troops for D-Day in 1945. The spirit remains in this new model, the M60 AquaLion, its first diver. It’s a charmingly over-engineered watch, rivalling the best Swiss. Being a Vertex, it has a mission-ready look as befits its collection, yet speaks a distinct language. It has a raffish sense of purpose, with a functional and pared-back look. With a versatile 40mm size, obsessive detailing, and Chronometer-spec movement, it ticks a lot of boxes for £2,850. vertex-watches.com
Bremont Broadsword
Bremont makes tough tools, no questions asked. We have been charmed before by the intrinsic detail of its hardened Trip-Tick cases, but the Broadsword hits different. Most tool watches are all talk, but the Broadsword has been commissioned by the M.o.D and looks it. There are still suave details like the striated case sides and sweeping bevel on the lugs but speaking in a more serious voice. The matte black dial is pure legibility, while a big-crowned stubby case design makes this a watch that wants more than a night in streaming Tom Cruise pulling G’s. At £2,995 you better sign up for that boot camp. bremont.com
Bamford Midnight Snoop
We have to admit it, George, we can’t keep up with your creative, epic collaborations. From a triple blue fast-sell G-Shock to quirky artist collabs, 2022 has surely been a Bamford year. This time we are reunited with Charles M. Schultz’s ever-charming Snoopy character on the Bamford GMT, with an ethereal charm of its own. The image of our fave beagle is rendered in minute lume-dots on a deep blue dial, turning the loveable pooch into a constellation, with Woodstock floating around the dial in his space suit. An eminently usable travel watch in a tough, matte titanium case with a deep space charm of its own. Note: At £1,700 it’s probably sold out but don’t fret, George assures us more Snoopy collabs will arrive. bamfordlondon.com
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Fears Brunswick 40mm & 38mm
The Fears Watch Company is, like Vertex, a family business renewed with the unstoppable Nicholas Bowman-Scargill at the helm. With a top-tier collab with Garrick this spring, Nicholas set a strong pace for the year, most notably with a 40mm re-working of its Brunswick. With the first watch on a bracelet, the Brunswick 40 shows us a new, tougher side to the suave style of Fears at £3,750. But we also mustard for the 38mm Brunswick Champagne as a perfect party partner to, well parties. Our love of smaller-cased watches is met with panache through Nicholas’ instinctive touch inspired by a '20s Fears design. The dial reproduces both the feeling and golden charm of champagne through the judicious use of 18ct gold layered on the dial. £3,350, fearswatches.com
Farer Chrono-Classic Meredith
Just like most brands in this story, Farer keeps restocking its virtual shelves while stepping up its game. Delightfully light on matte black tool watches, the sartorial portfolio of Farer is colourful tailoring for the wrist. The new top-tier range includes the Meredith, and nothing says vintage suit-perfect like a salmon dial. A classic bi-compax chronograph with a Swiss movement, the 39mm case holds a vivid copper dial with the freshest blue details in the business. Yet another brand underlining the diverse and eclectic mix of British horology we love. £2,195, farer.com
Christopher Ward C63 Sealander Lucerne Blue
Now an established small brand, Christopher Ward has released some colourful twists to its tool watch arsenal this year. Fresh off the trend for popsicle-coloured watches and Tiffany-inspired designs the C63 Sealander snuck up on us. With a 39mm case and a classic oyster-style steel bracelet, it might just be the sub-£1,000 cheerful Explorer alternative we’ve been looking for. Whether you keep it on the sports-tough bracelet or add CW's tempting matchy turquoise leather strap for maximum effect, its 150m depth rating makes it tougher than its scintillating looks would suggest. £770, christopherward.com
William Wood Watches Bronze Chronograph
With an evocative and personal backstory, William Wood Watches is transcending the microbrand sphere faster than most. Known for putting red-dialled British wristwear on the map, with a touch of vintage, this time we have the first bronze version of its Triumph chronograph. This is a distinct twin-register chronograph, its rich colouring commemorated the 70-year Jubilee of Her Majesty the Queen. Not for the wrist-shy, but in all honesty there are enough monochrome tool watches around, which makes this all the more delightful. On a strap made from recycled fire hose with deep plum detailing, this is British design at its brash, quirky best. This Swiss-powered chronograph will be produced by William Wood in 100 numbered pieces, and at £2,795 is great value. Now you just need those purple chinos to match it. williamwoodwatches.com
Marloe Pacific 66
Based in Kinross, Scotland, Marloe Watch Company's new Marloe Pacific range is alluring wristwear fit for consummate style. The curvaceous case and sweeping lugs exude a restrained early ‘50s elegance, which makes sense as it’s inspired by the Comet airliner. Taking cues from the first commercial passenger jet infuses the Pacific 66 with a sense of heritage yet has its own design language. Choice salmon-coloured details sit well with the choice of a mid-green leather strap and our favourite detail, the case sides. The subtle touch of scalloped sides with a frosted surface makes the Pacific punch seriously above its weight, setting Marloe apart from the microbrand crowd and all the enticement needed to dress to the nines for that transcontinental flight. With four enticing styles and a manual wind Swiss movement, the Pacific presents superb value at £975, marloewatchcompany.com
