Is Bulgari’s new Octo a sign of what watches might look like in the future?

Alongside Audemar Piguet's Royal Oak and the Rolex Daytona, the Bulgari Octo has fast become one of the most talked-about men’s watches and the new Finissimo Ultra is only going to enhance its credentials.
Is Bulgaris new Octo a sign of what watches might look like in the future

To say Bulgari Octo watches are a firm celeb fave would be a modern day understatement. Spotted on the wrists of Cristiano Ronaldo, John Legend, Bradley Cooper, Idris Elba, David Gandy, Gerard Butler, Eric Bana, Adrien Brody, Jeremy Renner, Jared Leto, Aaron Eckhart (we’re still going), Matthew McConaughey and Josh O’Connor, that’s some serious star power, only bettered by the fact many of whom pride themselves on their horological knowledge and timepiece collections. When you consider the Octo has only been around for 10 years, it makes such popularity all the more notable. As Jean-Christophe Babin, Bulgari’s CEO, has said in the past, “Octos stand out from the crowd and are very important for us because they are redefining the character of the brand, which is the unique fusion between Italian design and Swiss engineering.”

Impartially aside, Babin is right because in the same rich vein as an AP Royal Oak, a Rolex Daytona, a Patek Nautilus or a Cartier Tank does, an Octo stands out on the wrist thanks to its minimalism design and unique octagonal shape. It has the accolades to back up the hype too, winner of the “Aiguille d’Or” as well as the “Best in Show” award from last year’s GPHG, which is the watch-world equivalent of winning best picture at Oscars.

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Within the Octo collection, while the Roma is more of the everyday hero lusted after for its clean lines and classic design, the Octo Finissimo is often the headline grabber that has a habit of blowing your mind on an annual basis. Indeed, there is pushing the limits of what’s feasible in watch design and then there’s the ultra-thin craftsmanship involved in creating the latest Octo Finissimo Ultra. With a thickness of only 1.8mm managing to house some serious technical wizardry within such thin perimeters, it’s difficult to fathom such a feat is possible. (For reference Piaget's Altiplano Ultimate Automatic watch is one of the thinnest self-winding watches in the world at 4.30 mm.) This special 10th anniversary Octo Finissimo Ultra boasts (there’s no other word for it) eight new patent applications, most notably for the watch glass assembly, the barrel structure and a much improved bracelet, which is a cause for celebration itself. 

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Bulgari prides itself on an ability to meet challenges – it’s innate to the brand’s DNA – but having a QR code engraved on the barrel (as the new Octo Finissimo Ultra does) takes thing up to another level. All of sudden, we have to ask ourselves is this an insight into where the future of watchmaking and craftsmanship is headed, exploring new ways of working seamlessly with more connected ecosystems? 

As always, where Jean-Claude Biver goes, others follow as he is said to have offered the first Watch NFT, in the shape of the suitably named Bigger Bang All Black Tourbillon Chronograph Special Piece. The likes of Jacob & Co and Louis Moinet are also dipping their toes in the NFT game so the fact that each of the 10 limited edition Octo Finissimo Ultra watches is delivered with an individual NFT to ensure its authenticity – gimmick or not – adds both value and intrigue to an already appealing proportion. 

Indeed, it’s little wonder why natural-born winners like Ronaldo, Leto, Legend and Elba are fans – they all strive to be the best, win awards and set records – something Bulgari and its Octo collection share in common.

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